My new year’s resolution: Dual Dayton DVC385 ported build / DIY HT speaker / room acoustics upgrade! - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 96 Old 12-31-2012, 09:40 PM - Thread Starter
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This is long overdue but I am finally getting around to it. The HT was done about 5 years ago and as far as the speakers go uses cheap Menards in-wall speakers all the way around, two for the center plus 5 JBL HTIB speakers that brings the total number of center channel speakers up to 3, more is better right. rolleyes.gif For the bottom end there is one JBL sub 10 placed in the front.

Looking forward


And at the mess behind


Now laugh all you want but this was all done before I knew about AVS forum and the only place I knew you could get raw drivers from was RadioShack before they stopped selling them. About a year after theater was built did I discover this forum then Parts Express Maidisound, Meniscus. Then my interest in DIY speakers exploded and have been learning and building ever since. Enough talk about me and on with the project.

Now the plan is to replace the JBL with two Dayton DVC385’s each in a 9.5cuft ported enclosure tuned to the mid teens. I had been looking for a decent driver deal for a while and when the DVC’s went on sale for $99 I could not pass them up. One sub did come with the spider mount cracked but PE took car of it and got a new one out to me less then 48 hours after I sent the bad one back. I really like how they model in the ported enclosure. Around the tuning frequency the two of them should give me equal SPL as four 18” Dayton’s with 5 times the power in a sealed enclosure of the same size 19 cuft total. Ported FTW! biggrin.gif

If you have not seen it here is a excursion video I made with the DVC385:


As far as the speakers go I plan on replacing the side surrounds with my small on wall surround design here:http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/index.php?topic=71.0 Currently the rear surrounds are way on the back wall and I might make a modified version of the on wall surrounds to place on the ceiling just behind the listening area.

I am not set on what I am going to do up front yet I may try running the MTG-08’s with a phantom center or possibly three of my dual 6.5” woofer / waveguide designs up there once I get around to switching out the CD and reworking the crossover on those. There is not a lot of room up front so any of the larger designs are out.


Right now I am going to focus on building the subs then move to speakers then treating the room. I have got my work cutout for me.

Happy new years everyone!
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post #2 of 96 Old 01-01-2013, 04:10 PM
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Wow... you've come a long way in 5 years. Looks like a nice project. Are those the daytons similar to the mfw 15's?

Builds: Maelstrom 21 Ottoman Build, Dual Opposed MFW's x 2, Statements, SEOS-12/TD12M x 5. 
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post #3 of 96 Old 01-01-2013, 04:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Hehe I remember back when I built my first set of speakers using buyout drivers and a first order crossover derived from an online calculator. I thought they were the best sounding speakers I had ever heard. biggrin.gif


Yeah I do believe they are almost the same. Though I thought I remember some say one had a different VC diameter way back when all the MFW drivers were on closeout.
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post #4 of 96 Old 01-01-2013, 10:37 PM
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You have a lot of space... You could lay a pair of f20's down on their sides underneath that screen. But then you probably wouldn't be able to hear the rest of your speakers...
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post #5 of 96 Old 01-01-2013, 11:33 PM - Thread Starter
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I have thought about that but those are just a little too big and with the ported enclosures am I shooting for extension into the low teen’s, something a little below what the F-20's will do. I also don't need extreme SPL levels, at least not indoors. I may build something like those for the bottom end of my synergy horn based backyard theater when it warms up. smile.gif

Unfortunately I got pulled into another project for my brother that needs to get done before Saturday. So far I have only managed to get a simple inexpensive circular saw guide built and make one cut with it.
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post #6 of 96 Old 01-02-2013, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

Now the plan is to replace the JBL with two Dayton DVC385’s each in a 9.5cuft ported enclosure tuned to the mid teens.

Sounds like a good plan. 2 DVC's in LLT's will be a huge step up. biggrin.gif What's your plan for power?
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post #7 of 96 Old 01-02-2013, 10:58 AM - Thread Starter
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They will get 100 watts each which should hold me over for now with a future upgrade possibly being an EP2000/NU3000.
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post #8 of 96 Old 01-08-2013, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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I did not make as much progress as I wanted on these the past few days, but I did accomplish a few other things. First I built a new dust separator so I could try it out on this project. I moved a spare PC into the shop and I made a very simple strait edge jig for my cordless circular saw too. It works great cuts that would be troublesome on the table saw are now a breeze. It took less then 5 min to build and cost me nothing.



All that is needed is some material with a straight edge for the guide. I used some scrap 7/16" OSB I had and cut a nice straight edge on the table saw. This should be a little wider then the distance from the side or your saw's base plate to the motor so there is room for clamping. Then you take some thinner material 1/8" or 1/4" should work well, I used some 1/8" hardboard I had. This is used to line up the cut and should be made a little wider then the total distance of the strait edge board plus the distance from the edge of the saw's base plate to the blade. Once those two are glued together you run the saw along it to cut it to the exact size and removing any excess material. Here I after I made my first cut with it:




With the PC in the shop I can now stream music from my library down there and started to notice a problem I had, the Optimus Pro X7’s that I have in there just don’t get loud enough on the old realistic stereo receiver when i feel like cranking it. So I switched them out with something a little more sensitive and now I have no trouble hearing the music when I am sawing with ear protection on. biggrin.gif






I got all my panels cut, next up I am going to start gluing the boxes together and start cutting the recesses for the drivers/ports on the baffles. I also need to figure out what I am going to do for bracing before I get too far with assembly.

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post #9 of 96 Old 01-09-2013, 09:31 AM
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Drill like 3 tiny holes in the surface of the saw guide that the saw slides on and use brad nails to hold it in place. Much easier than messing with clamps. wink.gif
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post #10 of 96 Old 01-09-2013, 10:47 AM - Thread Starter
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How does that help?

The clamps work very well, it takes no longer then 15 seconds to setup for a cut and I can get within a 1/64" every time the limiting factor being how well I measure and mark the sheet before cutting.
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post #11 of 96 Old 01-09-2013, 01:22 PM
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Cuz clamps suck. biggrin.gif

Really it's just easier and quicker and it won't ever drift. Plus you can rip narrower boards.
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post #12 of 96 Old 01-10-2013, 10:28 PM - Thread Starter
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I forgot to mention the dimensions of these are 20.5”w x 26”h x 40”d with a double thick front baffle. They can be cut from 3 4x8' sheets or 6 4x4' sheets. I went with the 4x4' sheets because when they go on sale at menards (20% off handy-panels) it is cheaper to buy a pair then a full 4x8" sheet. The 4x4' sheets also fit right into the back of my XJ with the rear seats folded down. smile.gif

I started the enclosure assembly which is just clamps and titebond I as I can work on the baffles as the glue is drying. I marked out my port and driver locations and started making my cutouts on the outer baffles. You can see my trusty old circle jig and cheap harbor freight trim router hard at work.





I test the fit of one of the port flares, I am using these her:Port Tube 4" ID x 4" L Flared
They happen to have the same ID as 4” PVC so I am going to run those for the rest of the length. The total length of the ports is going to be approximately 28”, that puts tuning right about 15hz. I have a feeling it may come in a little lower then that when I test it.



I just made the inner baffle cutout with a jigsaw as there is no need for a perfect cut there and the jigsaw creates far less dust.
While those are gluing together I figured out what I am going to do for bracing and marked locations for it. My leftovers from the main panels are going to become the bracing. Much less waste then making the window bracing out of sheets.







Once that was done I glued the baffles on.



These cutouts from the outer ports flares are going to be my inner port flares.



If you have not tried one of these before I recommend it, it an adjustable hole-saw and cuts through MDF much quicker then your regular hole-saw does as it ejects all the dust as it spins instead of trapping in the cut. These cuts only take a few seconds each on the drill press.







Here is where I stopped for tonight, I am going to see if I can get the bracing and ports cut and in place tomorrow then get the last side panel in place.






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post #13 of 96 Old 01-10-2013, 11:21 PM
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Looking good mtg - and some decent garage speakers =D
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post #14 of 96 Old 01-11-2013, 05:57 AM
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I was unaware that the Dayton DVC385's would dig down that low. I wonder how 4 or 5 of these Dayton DVC385's if built into the same enclosures that you are doing, tuned to 15hz, and powered by 2 EP4000's, how would 4 or 5 of them compare to 2 of the Dayton HO18's powered by a single EP4000?
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post #15 of 96 Old 01-11-2013, 07:47 AM
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Looks really good mtg. I like your plan with the flares. I've been thinking of getting one of those adjustable hole cutters for bind post dishes and such.

I never do window bracing either. It's huge overkill for all but the most extreme drivers and wastes a ton of stock. I just use a 2" strip across each panel.
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I was unaware that the Dayton DVC385's would dig down that low. I wonder how 4 or 5 of these Dayton DVC385's if built into the same enclosures that you are doing, tuned to 15hz, and powered by 2 EP4000's, how would 4 or 5 of them compare to 2 of the Dayton HO18's powered by a single EP4000?

4 ported dvc's should be in the 120+ db range, assuming a reasonable room, right around tuning frequency with a little more headroom above. Sealed gives up 6-8db at the tuning freq of the ported version but box size is about 1/2 and it controls excursion down to single digits.

The HO18 models with 2-4 db more headroom than the dvc15 depending on where you set the xmax, the SI 18 about 6db more headroom.


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post #16 of 96 Old 01-11-2013, 08:02 AM
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Looking good. For the money it is hard to beat the DVC-385 when it is selling for around $100. I am excited to hear how these monsters stack up to the JBL 10 smile.gif
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post #17 of 96 Old 01-11-2013, 10:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys,
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Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

I was unaware that the Dayton DVC385's would dig down that low. I wonder how 4 or 5 of these Dayton DVC385's if built into the same enclosures that you are doing, tuned to 15hz, and powered by 2 EP4000's, how would 4 or 5 of them compare to 2 of the Dayton HO18's powered by a single EP4000?

Here is 4 DVC385's in a 19cuft enclosure (would be two per 9.5 cuft) tuned to 15hz vs 2 HO18's in the same enclosures (9.5cuft each). Both powered by a single EP4000, the dvc's would get 2400watts (bridged mono 4ohms or two 2ohm) and the 18's would get 1500 watts (two 4 ohm loads). I think I have those numbers right but am not sure. Note both have a highpass at 15hz, the DVC's are at their limits where as the 18's could take a little more power.



Quote:
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Looking good. For the money it is hard to beat the DVC-385 when it is selling for around $100. I am excited to hear how these monsters stack up to the JBL 10 smile.gif

I am sure they will blow it away both in output and extension.
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post #18 of 96 Old 01-11-2013, 12:16 PM
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2400 w into 4 dvc's is a little optimistic. What does the max spl graph look like?
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post #19 of 96 Old 01-11-2013, 12:56 PM - Thread Starter
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I am sure the coils could take 600w for the short blips they might see during a movie. It is not like that is continuous and while they are a little over rated xmax I do think they are still within reasonable excursion limits.

Though I will agree that it is a little on the high side.
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post #20 of 96 Old 01-11-2013, 01:49 PM
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Depends on the frequency content. 600w w/ significant content at 30hz in your ported design is going to bottom it out. My DVC's start making mechanical noise once they get over ~1.5" of travel.

I agree though that the coils can take it for short bursts and that some movie content will have the frequencies distributed across the LF spectrum enough to take 600w. It's not something you can count on though and I wouldn't use that number for my SPL comparison since you will be extremely excursion limited in the 1/2 - 1 1/2 octave above port tuning.

WinISD's Max SPL graph comparisons are more meaningful because they make an apples to apples comparison based on displacement.
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post #21 of 96 Old 01-19-2013, 02:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Time for an update, boxes are assembled just need to do some sanding and round-over’s then paint.


Here is what those flares look like on the ports.




Ports and bracing installed, the outer port flares need to be glued in so I painted around them before I did that. They are glued to the PVC but the duck tape is used as extra sealing measures. Even though I used the MDF cut in strips for the bracing I ended up with window style bracing anyway as it made things easier to assemble.



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post #22 of 96 Old 01-19-2013, 03:33 PM
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Looking great Matt! biggrin.gif

Looking forward to your impressions as well.
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post #23 of 96 Old 01-23-2013, 10:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Andrew!


I have been working on better dust collection for my tools and as I am sure you all know MDF dust it terrible. I now my miter saw, orbital sander and router with DIY setups. It makes it a whole lot nicer to work with when there isn’t dust flying everywhere and you don’t need to worry about the cleanup.

The sander and miter saw just needed adaptors which I made using some PVC fittings.
For the router I made a little shield that gets mounted to the bottom. As I usually do I just scrounge around for parts to build it, found a clear cylindrical container that I had saved a while ago because it was a nice size and pretty sturdy which had originally held some food product. I cut the bottom off that then cut it in half; it forms the collection shield part. I found one of my many circle driver/port cutouts that was the same diameter cut it in half and mounted to the shield forming the bottom. I made a round disc out of ¼” hardboard the same size as my router base that will form the new base for the router where I will mount the shield to. I also cut and mounted a piece of 1/8” hardboard to the shield where the hose is connected as reinforcement. The shield was mounted to the new base using a combination of short screws and my favorite adhesive hot melt glue (I’ve even assembled a whole enclosure using only that).








Works better with the flush trim bit then the round over though I might be able to modify it to fix that. Here is one that was flush trimmed with some light sanding, then both with roundovers ready for filler/priming.



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post #24 of 96 Old 01-23-2013, 11:36 AM
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You are almost there! Looking very good. Those are some beastly looking subs...

When are you building four more biggrin.gif
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post #25 of 96 Old 01-23-2013, 11:52 AM
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Matt - love the DIY dust collection!! Keep it up - more tool pics please. smile.gif

I agree MDF dust is the WORST.
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post #26 of 96 Old 01-23-2013, 11:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Just two more wink.gif

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post #27 of 96 Old 01-23-2013, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

Just two more wink.gif


Wait so you are building two 15" ported and two 18" ported then? Same cabinet size and tuning frequency? Is that the SI 18 driver?

Interesting...
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post #28 of 96 Old 01-23-2013, 12:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Hop over to the SI thread tongue.gif
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post #29 of 96 Old 01-23-2013, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
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Just two more wink.gif


Thanks for posting that depressing pic. wink.gif You don't even have the 15 cabs finished and you already have 18's ready to go?

Looks like the magnet slugs are about the same size. Did you rotate your tinsel leads?
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post #30 of 96 Old 01-23-2013, 12:38 PM - Thread Starter
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The magnet on the SI is a bit bigger, the dayton is closer to the camera plus the smaller frame makes for a bit of an optical illusion.

I did rotate the tinsel leads on the Dayton after I found they slapped the bottom of the cone in their normal position when I was running the driver with some sine waves free air. They were pretty loud and I had thought the driver was bottoming. Once I realized it was the tinsel leads I played around with them until I found a good spot which is about a 45 degree angle from the terminals then pulled slightly tighter. I would say that gave them a good extra 5-8mm of throw before they start to make suspension noise.
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