beginner question about subwoofer mounting - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 01-06-2013, 12:41 PM - Thread Starter
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this is my first diy and could use some mounting help (this is probably really basic...but...once again...first diy...figure better to be safe)

i have created and laminated my endcaps for my sonosub build...i was getting ready to mark the mounting holes and noticed that the holes are partially blocked by an inner lining...i think it is plastic...as it seems a little flexible...

should i just sand out all the plastic around the mounting hole area (so the bolt will be flat against the metal)...or do i not even need to be concerned with it...


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post #2 of 15 Old 01-06-2013, 12:42 PM
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same way on most subs dont worry about it
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post #3 of 15 Old 01-06-2013, 01:05 PM
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as long as it wont interfere with the gasket sealing, dont worry about it.

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post #4 of 15 Old 01-06-2013, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

as long as it wont interfere with the gasket sealing, dont worry about it.
as was said before..your good to go

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post #5 of 15 Old 01-06-2013, 03:20 PM - Thread Starter
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thanks guys...i will be pushing forward...another quick question...

what size bolt should i be using for mounting...i was thinking 10-32...but also have heard to use 1/4...does it matter...or should i just go with whatever fits and will hold the sub to the endcap....
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post #6 of 15 Old 01-06-2013, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by cnp112 View Post

thanks guys...i will be pushing forward...another quick question...
what size bolt should i be using for mounting...i was thinking 10-32...but also have heard to use 1/4...does it matter...or should i just go with whatever fits and will hold the sub to the endcap....
yeah you can use the 1/4. But what ever you use just make sure it holds the woofer tight and good...not to tight ..just the right amount of torque...

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post #7 of 15 Old 01-09-2013, 12:56 PM - Thread Starter
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i tried fitting a 1/4-20 round head machine screw...but the head of the screw was too large to fit over the outer lip of the subwoofer's casing (terminology?)...is my best bet going to be 1/4-20 cap head screws...thanks...

also...should i be worried about drilling a 5/16" inch hole for the 1/4-20 t-nut when there is not much wood between the subwoofer cutout and the 5/16" inch hole...thanks...
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post #8 of 15 Old 01-09-2013, 07:20 PM
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here is an alternative to t-nuts

http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=812-452&LARGEVIEW=ON

i have not used them, but if Josh Ricci trusts them they must work good.

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post #9 of 15 Old 01-09-2013, 08:24 PM
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if u don't plan to be removing the driver often u can just pre drill and use a screw
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post #10 of 15 Old 01-09-2013, 10:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys...i thought about just predrilling and using wood screws but figured i may want to replace the sub at a future time...also i imagine using tnuts will make for a more secure fit...i ended up getting the 1/4-20 cap screws...they fit well...i was thinking of using a 1/4 bit to drill all the way through the endcap...and then drill only a little in the rear of the endcap with a 5/16 bit for the tnut...hope it works out...
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post #11 of 15 Old 01-10-2013, 01:12 AM
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Another common recommendation is to epoxy the t-nut in place when you install them. That will help avoid having them come loose or spin. Try not to get any epoxy on the threads, but if you do, chase the thread with a tap. Or even chase the threads with a tap even if you don't get any epoxy on them if you want to be extra careful. I've read several reports from experienced builders about pesky t-nuts getting jammed (e.g. from stuffing caught in the threads) and spinning in the wood, making driver removal a PITA. Be careful.

Many recommend wood screws. You can likely re-use the holes if you need to remove the driver, but you could also turn the speaker and drill new holes without having it look weird. For instance, align the screws on the vertical centerline instead of the horizontal for the re-drill. However, I understand your desire to avoid wood screws. I have used 10-32 Hurricane nuts and black oxide socket head cap screws on all of my builds so far.
hurricane nuts: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=081-1082
screws (these are 1", but many other lengths are available, and the ones I got are black despite the "gray" color listed): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FN3VTY

-Max
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post #12 of 15 Old 01-10-2013, 05:31 AM
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The stuff in the way of the holes is just gasket material. 1/4 or #10 machine screws will be fine. Socket head is the way to go.

Wood screws are fine too until you remove the driver more than about 10 times. At that point you will have to go to T-nuts.

I would not use threaded inserts on MDF. It runs the risk of causing the layers to split apart and the area where the insert goes in to swell making it impossible to get an air tight seal. They really only work in soft woods.

T-nuts or hurricane nuts work fine even with the hole really close to the edge. They have the "T" part to hold them in place like a clamp. Don't over think it. No worries.
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post #13 of 15 Old 01-10-2013, 06:29 AM
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Once you get the holes lines up and the screws ready, you just shove the screw into the hole and wiggle it so the rubber gasket moves to the side (after the inserts are installed of course).

I used the metal inserts for 2 DIY subs now. I used a piece of scrap to find the perfect pilot hole for them by using several different sized bits and installing the insert to a nice torque without stripping out the MDF. I believe it was something like 9 or 11/32. I used a slightly larger one for the flange, but for me, it isn't really required since I use duratex finish which is quite thick. I used gorilla glue on the threads when installing the inserts to fill any voids and keep them from turning when mounting the driver with screws. I have had no issues at all with this method. I would say hurricane nuts are another option but I would avoid T-nuts. They have a barb on the flange, meant to be hammered into the backside of the baffle. This doesn't work so well with MDF but if you used a softer wood, I wouldn't see an issue.




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post #14 of 15 Old 01-10-2013, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
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thanks guys...i think you guys are right...too much thinking...not enough doing...i think i will just test out the t-nuts in some scrap wood...if i dont feel comfortable with it...i will just pull the trigger on wood screws and be done with it...and i really dont see myself taking the sub out of the enclosure more than once or twice anyways...the only reasons may be for loose connection or more insulation/foam...and it seems once or twice shouldnt be a problem with wood screws...
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post #15 of 15 Old 01-10-2013, 09:44 AM
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I'm not a big fan of hurricane nuts. The 10-32 ones I tried tended to cross thread easily. As a result you have to start them carefully by hand wiggling them this way and that way making sure they're spinning pretty freely and are well started before taking a drill/driver to them. If you don't you'll end up cross threading them and likely tearing them out of the wood leaving you with a potentially big problem. Even just playing with one in your hand with a screw you can tell they're tricky to start.

On the other hand, the barbed nuts that PE sells I've never had any problem with. I've been able to put screws in them with a power drill/driver without starting them by hand first and haven't had any issues with cross threading or the like.
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