L&R SEOS Tempest Build - Jeff Bagby Design - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 69 Old 01-16-2013, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSmithers View Post

Something I've noticed since using the Tempests is that I'm hearing/noticing a lot more stuff going on in the surround speakers. Perhaps it's placebo of some kind, maybe I just happen to be watching stuff lately with more surround content than before, maybe it's because my mains are more clear, maybe my cheapo receiver was having trouble powering 5 channels of low efficiency vs now where it's 2 very high efficiency and then the 2 surrounds. I highly doubt it's the last one, in fact I have no idea what it might be, but it's pretty neat.
My guess would be, your new mains are not filling your room with a clutter of reflected sound as much as conventional speakers would due to their controlled directivity, leaving more "space" to hear your surrounds clearly.
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post #62 of 69 Old 01-16-2013, 12:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bdemarco View Post

These look great! I was just hunting around the forum to see if anyone has already build the boxes that I plan to build (except I plan on building the definimax's). Do you happen to have a cut list? I couldn't tell if you did rabbit joints for more than just the left and right sides of the box. Also, did you only used one brace?

Once again, really cool!
The cutlist I used isn't terribly useful as I just put rabbet's and dado's everywhere like a madman biggrin.gif The bottom line is to get a box 14.5" wide, 26" tall, and 13.5" deep. Then laying Erich's front baffle over that gives you the final 14.25" depth.

For the record, if I were starting over I think I'd do (this is per speaker):
Qty 1 - 13 1/2 x 26 1/16 - inner baffle (cut 1/16 long to be flush trimmed at the end)
Qty 3 - 13 x 12 1/4 - 1 brace, 1 top, 1 bottom (brace is 13 x 12 if you forego the dado)
Qty 1 - 14 1/2 x 26 - back (3/4 wide x 1/4 deep rabbets around perimeter)
Qty 2 - 13 x 26 1/16 - sides (cut 1/16 long to be flush trimmed at the end, rabbets down one edge for front baffle to drop into)

This is more or less what I did, except I did a dado for the window brace (which I didn't care much for). You definitely don't have to do the rabbets around the back (or anywhere for that matter), I imagine most people would say it's a waste of time but I felt like it helped me get things square more easily. I do actually like the front baffle dropping in quite a bit though. I also did 1/4 extra on my overhangs which was WAY too much, 1/8 would've been much better and I'll go to 1/16 in the future.

I only did one window brace between the waveguide and the woofer. You could put one between the woofer and ports if you really wanted, there's room on the baffle, but I didn't feel like it was necessary. I used two vertical braces (I just used scrap material, you could use dowels) that were about 1" wide x 24 1/2" tall. I positioned these poking through the rear window brace hole, 1 on each side. You could definitely get fancier with the bracing if you wanted to but this seems to work fine.

Looking forward to seeing the Zephyr build, are you doing three or just L/R?
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post #63 of 69 Old 01-16-2013, 01:42 PM
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Hey! Thanks for that, I appreciate you giving me a heads up on your cuts.


I plan on using these just for left and rights on my turntable. I still have to make an order with Erich, and since I'm in Canada I need to find time for when I can travel to the US to pick them up. I have the desire to buy the wood and start the build soon before having the parts.

Thanks again!
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post #64 of 69 Old 01-16-2013, 04:34 PM
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i can generate the cultist for you if you want, i actually think i already did it. i just don't remember where i saved it. but its pretty simple to do. Let me know


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post #65 of 69 Old 01-16-2013, 04:39 PM
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Forum member MTG-90 made up some cut list diagrams that I will be uploading as soon as possible.


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Twelve 10" NHT subwoofer build.
Cloning of a NHT VR-3.
2 ACI 15" subwoofers.

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post #66 of 69 Old 01-17-2013, 07:40 AM
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I can only assume everyone's cut list will be different. I'd love to see one similar to the CNC ported version erich.

Sibuna, could you post yours too? I'm having a time drawing out diagrams at work. smile.gif
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post #67 of 69 Old 01-17-2013, 07:37 PM
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assuming a 48x96 incheh sheet of MDF this is what i got based on the dimensions on the DIY site after plugging them into boxnotes & cutlist. I never get a solution for 2 per sheet. you however can get 1 tempest and 1 fusion 10 per sheet
however i decided it would be easier to just get the flatpacks

the only thing i question is the size of the shelf/brace
http://www.rootminus1.com/admin/AVS/diy/tempestliist.jpg

http://www.rootminus1.com/admin/AVS/diy/tempestliist2.jpg

using the dimensions MrSmithers posted you get this

http://www.rootminus1.com/admin/AVS/diy/mrstempestcut.jpg

http://www.rootminus1.com/admin/AVS/diy/mrstempestcut2.jpg


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post #68 of 69 Old 01-17-2013, 07:51 PM - Thread Starter
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The "shelf brace" in boxnotes assumes you're going to recess it 0.2" into each panel. I can't tell by glancing how it's getting to 13 x 13 after that though..

Also in my cutlist I posted above I believe I was assuming a dado for the brace. Without the dado it'd be 1/4" shorter, so the brace would go to 13 x 12.

If you're not concerned with having the easiest cuts possible (in terms of layout, symmetry) you can check "ignore grain direction" in Cutlist. Normally what I do is see how I can have Home Depot rip down the piece in a way that makes sense and allows it to fit in my car.
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post #69 of 69 Old 01-18-2014, 09:20 PM
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How do the Fusion - Tempests compare to the Noesis 228's that you listened to? Close? Worth double the price?

Equipment: Denon AVR-4520, Fusion Tempest (LCR), Fusion Alchemy (4xSurrounds+Wides+Heights),15" Dayton Ultimax X 4, SMX 2.35:1 Screen

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