Lilmike's LilWrecker - Page 25 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #721 of 805 Old 08-14-2015, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patzig View Post
If the T/S specs are correct on the sheet at manualslib.com, then it models pretty well.
Thanks Patzig.

So you think it will work out okay? If its not optimal, I won't force it.

On the other hand, if you (or others) feel it is an excellent driver for this design, then I would love to try.

It is my understanding that not all drivers are suitable for TH implementation.
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post #722 of 805 Old 09-01-2015, 03:15 AM
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Would this design also work with a shiva (aria) tempest 15"?

Spec wise it is comparable to the dayton dvc 15"

Thanks for the advice I am doubting to buy this driver tomorrow!

Regards
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post #723 of 805 Old 09-01-2015, 01:25 PM
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I meant 'Adire' not aria (no idea where I got that from)

the specs are as below:

T/S
Sensitivity:SPL 92.1 dB @ 2.83V
Power Handling: Pmax750W RMS
Impedance: Znom: 4/8/16
Radiating Area: 779 cm2
Equiv. Compliance: Vas 317 liters
Resonant Frequency: Fs 18.8 Hz
Mechanical Q: 6.7
Electrical Q: 0.40
Total Q: 0.377
Weight: 10 KG
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post #724 of 805 Old 09-01-2015, 08:07 PM
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My understanding is the the FI works well but with more power. So you spend double the money for the driver and require double the power over the Alpine. For the same costs you could build 2 LilWreckers. If I had the space and budget, I'd build two of the LilWreckers with plenty of power for the FIs.

Also, don't cheap out on the lumber. I thought about it. LilMike talked me out of it. Shop around, look, and you will find decent lumber. If you are going to go to all of the work to build one of these things, why buy shizzy lumber? Too many people would then come back and blame the design rather than their poor choices.
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post #725 of 805 Old 09-01-2015, 10:59 PM
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Are you talking about the earlier mentioned fi q 15 or about my mentioned shiva tempest? How shoul i calculate the needed power? I am thinkig about pairing the tempest to a 420 watt monacor amp
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post #726 of 805 Old 09-05-2015, 12:23 AM
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also a second question, didn't see it mentioned before as most use an inuke, but how many Watts do I need if I use a passive sub to power the subwoofer? Would a Hypex 2.0 with 100W @ 8 Ohm be sufficient or do I need the big Hypex 4.0 with 175 W @ 8 Ohm? It's quite a big price difference (x2)
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post #727 of 805 Old 09-05-2015, 03:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by belgiansound View Post
also a second question, didn't see it mentioned before as most use an inuke, but how many Watts do I need if I use a passive sub to power the subwoofer? Would a Hypex 2.0 with 100W @ 8 Ohm be sufficient or do I need the big Hypex 4.0 with 175 W @ 8 Ohm? It's quite a big price difference (x2)
you're wanting to power a 750 watt RMS sub with a 100w 8 ohm amp??? I'd pair it with a 600-700-ish watt amp if you want to get the most out of it. no sense leaving headroom on the table.
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post #728 of 805 Old 09-06-2015, 05:29 PM
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So, no FiAudio Q15 builds yet ?
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post #729 of 805 Old 09-07-2015, 07:32 PM
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LilMike! Asking for a friend who is pondering using the 15" LMS 5400 for a Lilwrecker. It appears the "thinnest" part of the driver mounting area is 11 3/4" if I am reading things correctly. The driver measures just about 11 1/2" at the lip of the frame if you remove the big rubber gasket. Is that enough room? Also, if you recall, this driver has the aforementioned lip on the frame where it would be "reverse-mounted" in this horn. How would I go about gasketing this to the mounting panel? I have attached a couple pics. I haven't had the driver out of the box in a long while--still a sexy beast!


P.S. This is my alternative to buying one of those close-out 18" LMS drivers and building a Gjallerhorn. I have two of the 15"-ers, so two Lilwreckers ought to beat one Gjallerhorn and I won't have to pay the big bucks for the 18"-er
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post #730 of 805 Old 09-08-2015, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post
you're wanting to power a 750 watt RMS sub with a 100w 8 ohm amp??? I'd pair it with a 600-700-ish watt amp if you want to get the most out of it. no sense leaving headroom on the table.
Thanks for the comment!

I based my 400 Watt max needed based on the graphs in the opening posts, were the max amp was a 400 Watt amp. I also have neigbours so not sure if it even makes sense to take a 1000 Watt amp if I can never max it out?

I have a 2x200 Watt amplifier for my main speakers (which go to 230 Watt, transmission lines, quite big at 140cm high) and this really is plenty
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post #731 of 805 Old 09-08-2015, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by belgiansound View Post
Thanks for the comment!

I based my 400 Watt max needed based on the graphs in the opening posts, were the max amp was a 400 Watt amp. I also have neigbours so not sure if it even makes sense to take a 1000 Watt amp if I can never max it out?

I have a 2x200 Watt amplifier for my main speakers (which go to 230 Watt, transmission lines, quite big at 140cm high) and this really is plenty
Better to have more power than clip the amp by under powering

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
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post #732 of 805 Old 09-08-2015, 07:23 AM
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Wow quick reply thanks! Just trying to find ways to cut on costs. Don't know how it is in the us but here in belgium you easily pay +500 eur for such an amp
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post #733 of 805 Old 10-05-2015, 11:01 PM
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Hello everyone. I wonder if you could help with this question. Can I have the lilwrecker placed outside the room with the mouth firing through a hole cut into the wall ?

I moved from an IB (infinite baffle) setup. One great thing about it was that it didn't take up any floor space (+ it went down to 5 hz!). Now that I am in a room in the garage I don't have space to vent the IB- so I have looking for alternatives. From what I have read so far, I like the idea of the lilwrecker a lot. However, given the room size of 15ft (long)X10 (wide) X9ft (ceiling) the lilwrecker is going to take up a lot of space.

So far the alternatives I have considered are-

1. build it int o a riser. However at 20" depth thats 3 steps high. Plus it will also get you closer to the ceiling
2. Stack it in one corner and give up on the footprint
3. Locate the sub outside the room with the horn firing in. (like an IB setup), only you have the horn located in a large box.
4. Go for the tuba low profile ht. It can build to 15" width and can be used a riser must easily. However this will be with a 12" driver, so bottom extension and power might be a problem.


Is #3 a possibility ?

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post #734 of 805 Old 10-05-2015, 11:43 PM
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Hello everyone. I wonder if you could help with this question. Can I have the lilwrecker placed outside the room with the mouth firing through a hole cut into the wall ?

I
Is #3 a possibility ?
Yes, it is. Just did it with a F-20 I built. It is my brother's house and the room is still under construction. I have also seen it done with the G-horns in the attic, same concept, so I tried it.

We did a sub crawl moving the sub around, found the best spot on the wall (given the space we had in the room behind it). I built a platform to get it up above the base molding. I caulked and screwed it to the drywall. I was concerned about rattles, but really none - It sounds great! My brother loves it, big bass in the room, but stealthy.

We will come up with some kind of fabric grill to cover the big "hole" in the wall. But even without it, it looks fine. I used j-channel on the drywall to give it a clean look.

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SI HST-18 DIY Subwoofer / Sony VPLHW40ES / Onkyo TX-NR636 /
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post #735 of 805 Old 10-05-2015, 11:51 PM
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@Kubbie , thank you for the quick validation. That was indeed very stealth!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kubbie View Post
Yes, it is. Just did it with a F-20 I built. It is my brother's house and the room is still under construction. I have also seen it done with the G-horns in the attic, same concept, so I tried it.

We did a sub crawl moving the sub around, found the best spot on the wall (given the space we had in the room behind it). I built a platform to get it up above the base molding. I caulked and screwed it to the drywall. I was concerned about rattles, but really none - It sounds great! My brother loves it, big bass in the room, but stealthy.

We will come up with some kind of fabric grill to cover the big "hole" in the wall. But even without it, it looks fine. I used j-channel on the drywall to give it a clean look.

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post #736 of 805 Old 10-06-2015, 08:59 AM
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Take a read what @d_c did with a pair of horns, same concept.

Doug's dual Gjallarhorn build

Quote:
Originally Posted by d_c View Post


SI HST-18 DIY Subwoofer / Sony VPLHW40ES / Onkyo TX-NR636 /
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post #737 of 805 Old 10-06-2015, 01:34 PM
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So, no FiAudio Q15 builds yet ?

PM replied.

120@20@14'
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post #738 of 805 Old 10-06-2015, 06:55 PM
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Take a read what @d_c did with a pair of horns, same concept.

Doug's dual Gjallarhorn build
Nice!

My LilWrecker is in a different room. We would probably get a more integrated response with the LilWrecker in the room but my mains are Klipsch RF-7iis that are well powered so we really aren't lacking for good bass punch from the mains. The LilWrecker is mostly filling in on the far deep end and just one can rattle your neighbors' house (okay, it is good, but maybe not that good). I wouldn't be afraid to put one in a different room (like I did).
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post #739 of 805 Old 10-06-2015, 10:22 PM
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Take a read what @d_c did with a pair of horns, same concept.

Doug's dual Gjallarhorn build
I spent an entire day up and down the ladder moving those beasts inches at a time separately across a slide on the rafters in every possible place to get the best response. It was a great deal of work, but considering the amount of time you will be enjoying your subs, and your significant other enjoying not having them in the room - it's worth it. Not only will it get you the best response at your listening position, but you won't have to pollute everything outside your MLP with everything you end up having to DSP out to get a smooth response if you have improper placement. Any null you have at the MLP will buzz somewhere else in the house and at your neighbor's house. Happy ULFing!!
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post #740 of 805 Old 10-09-2015, 08:18 AM
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Hi all, I received 2 alpine svs d4 to build a couple of Lilwrecker, is an inuke3000 enough for both or should I go with the 6000?
Marco.
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post #741 of 805 Old 10-09-2015, 08:30 AM
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Hi all, I received 2 alpine svs d4 to build a couple of Lilwrecker, is an inuke3000 enough for both or should I go with the 6000?
Marco.
The 6000 is not 2 ohm stable, so the 3000 is probably your best bet.
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post #742 of 805 Old 10-09-2015, 09:24 AM
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So you suggest to wire the woofer in parallel to get a 2ohm load, isn't it better to get 8ohm wiring it in series?
Marco
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post #743 of 805 Old 10-09-2015, 11:56 AM
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One isn't necessarily better than the other, so long as your amp is 2 ohm stable. Otherwise it's just wiring flexibility. Since the 3000 is 2 ohm stable, it's fine.


According to PE's specs, the 3000 at 2 ohms and the 6000 at 8 ohms push about the same amount of power. The 3000 is cheaper; the 6000 offers the ability to grow.
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post #744 of 805 Old 10-09-2015, 02:37 PM
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8 ohm wiring is less load on the amp than 2 ohm.
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post #745 of 805 Old 10-09-2015, 10:02 PM
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I run two off a 3000, 8 ohms per side. It wasn't appreciably louder wired at 2 ohms, and the amp seems happier with the 8 ohm load. The fan connector came loose in the move a few weeks ago and it's been running with passive cooling with no issues since -- it wasn't able to do that when I tried it at two ohms last winter.
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post #746 of 805 Old 10-10-2015, 03:17 AM
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I run two off a 3000, 8 ohms per side. It wasn't appreciably louder wired at 2 ohms, and the amp seems happier with the 8 ohm load. The fan connector came loose in the move a few weeks ago and it's been running with passive cooling with no issues since -- it wasn't able to do that when I tried it at two ohms last winter.
Txt, Marco.
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post #747 of 805 Old 10-12-2015, 05:21 PM
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One more question: can anyone direct me to a tutorial to lower the high pass filter on a inuke' dsp?
I red some where LTD02 wrote about but can't find it.
Marco
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post #748 of 805 Old 10-12-2015, 08:35 PM
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One more question: can anyone direct me to a tutorial to lower the high pass filter on a inuke' dsp?
I red some where LTD02 wrote about but can't find it.
Marco
How to extend the high pass filter below 20hz in DCX2496

End of post 1 for instruction on an inuke.
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post #749 of 805 Old 10-23-2015, 12:40 AM
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I had posted earlier about putting the lilwrecker in another room and cutting a hole into the room, but I chickened out since i didn't have too many options for placement, and I was apprehensive about the final results. So now I have a pretty tall riser to accommodate it instead. In hindsight it was a little crazy choice, but everyone who has a lillwrecker is a little bit crazy anyways!

I ran some test tones today - the corner bass traps are not up yet and a lot of the room isn't quite ready. All measurements are before equalization. The first image is for the first row, then the second row. The last image is very close to the horn opening and is a decent approximation of the subs native response. It will be interesting to see how things change with the bass traps in place.








Right now I have it powered from an adcom 2535 at 60 watts per channel and now itself its plenty loud- I plan to eventually put a 2000W carvin amp in place. I don't have the mains connected yet, so its just the subwoofer playing and everything sounds muffled. I can't wait to get everything in place and watch Jurassic world!
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post #750 of 805 Old 02-18-2016, 03:05 PM
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Baffle hole position

Is this a problem? I received my CNCed MDF, and found out they made the hole exactly centered in the middle instead of slightly to the left. If this does matters can someone explain to me why exactly it is like it is?
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