Lilmike's LilWrecker - Page 27 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #781 of 805 Old 03-25-2016, 01:19 AM
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I can't believe I'm seriously considering building at least 1 of these things, 2 days ago I was convinced I wouldn't be able to get it right, but after reading, discussing with folks, and looking at pics, I'm certain I was wrong about that.
Gonna order a couple Alpines, as the weather is getting warmer, and I'll be able to build out on the deck very soon.

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Why waste $ on more cheap stuff, it's like challenging a dragon with a pocket knife.
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post #782 of 805 Old 03-25-2016, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
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I was convinced I wouldn't be able to get it right...
Go for it, its really not that bad!

Unless you have a great table saw, I think the hardest part to get right is the cutting work. If your baffle cuts are wavy or imprecise its hard to get everything together tight and square and strong and airtight.

Lots of millworks, custom cabinetry, lumber yard type places will do custom cut work for amazing prices. There is a millworks shop a few miles from me that sells fancy wood and does custom moulding. They charge maybe $45 an hour to have one of their guys do custom work on their huge cabinet table saw. I think it cost me $30 to give them wood and a cut sheet and get back sub 1/16" precision parts. I dropped the stuff off, grabbed lunch, and came back and picked it up.
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post #783 of 805 Old 03-25-2016, 10:23 AM
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I have a table and chop saw, looks like a circular saw and guide would be good for this.
Thanks

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post #784 of 805 Old 03-25-2016, 10:48 AM
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Mike did you actually post on AVS recently... wow, and I missed it. lol.

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #785 of 805 Old 03-27-2016, 06:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muzz View Post
Is there any possible way to make this 23-24" tall instead of 25 3/8" @lilmike ?
Sorry to ask, but my 1st will hopefully be a stand for my DIYSG Pures, and they wanna be 23" or so above grade.

Sorry to ask such a question, I'd love to build 1 Without having to tilt my 3 mains.
Thank You

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I doubt that the inch is worth the effort. What's your seating distance? You might be a degree off axis, tops. Not worth the hassle IMO. That's the "or-so" in the height spec. If it were my room, I'd worry a lot more about proper toe in.

My concern with the width is compression. If it gets too high, the low corner rounds off, killing output where I want it most. I've built and measured horns like that, didn't bother to share those designs.
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post #786 of 805 Old 03-27-2016, 06:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Mike did you actually post on AVS recently... wow, and I missed it. lol.
LOL...

It has been known to happen on occasion...
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post #787 of 805 Old 03-27-2016, 06:55 PM
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Kinda what I figured, but was hoping to get an answer from the designer himself.
Lil different from ported /sealed, and this will be my 1st horn build.
Appreciate you dropping in to answer that lilmike.
I will build it to spec...
I AM building this biotch!

Ty Sir

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post #788 of 805 Old 03-27-2016, 07:00 PM
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Btw, Thanks for the hard work designing, sharing, and answering tons of questions regarding these horns.
Totally different animals.

Gary

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post #789 of 805 Old 04-06-2016, 07:21 PM
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My TARDIS build got picked up by Hackaday tonight!

I made sure there were links back here on my blog, and they picked up a link in the article.

I keep saying this, but thanks again for the designs lilmike!
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post #790 of 805 Old 04-13-2016, 03:56 PM
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Anyone found another/more power handling driver other than the fi(that hasn't been measured), or the ridiculously priced CVX that DEFINITELY works in this box?
While the price of the drivers listed is sweet, I don't wanna do this twice..or 5 times...

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post #791 of 805 Old 04-13-2016, 10:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muzz View Post
Anyone found another/more power handling driver other than the fi(that hasn't been measured), or the ridiculously priced CVX that DEFINITELY works in this box?
While the price of the drivers listed is sweet, I don't wanna do this twice..or 5 times...

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Wish I had the time and cash to test all the maybes. This isn't my day job, which is why the plans cost what they do.
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post #792 of 805 Old 04-14-2016, 04:40 AM
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Heheh. I hear ya. Thanks

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post #793 of 805 Old 07-25-2016, 02:59 PM
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Hi,
Just wanted to thank LilMike for the Lil'Wrecker design!

THANK YOU!

About the build:
Im using the Alpine SWS-15D4 as the driver.
But, as "bass insanity" is kicking in the more I use it, Im eyeing the Kicker as a future 'upgrade'.

Ive included a few pics of the sub, fwiw.
It's mounted on casters, and if I had to make one recommendation, it would be to add another piece of plywood to the bottom if using casters.
The amount of vibration/air moving about in the mouth of this sub is impressive!

It's for use in our outdoor theater.
The L/R are Yamaha S115's.
The sub is driven by an inuke 3000, the L/R amp is a Yamaha avr with about 100w/channel.

The measurements were done outdoors @ 3' with REW and a UMM-6 mic.
The first scan of the sub is w/o any eq, the second is with several dsp filters to match the target curve.

Again, THANKS Mike!

Regards,
-Cliff
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post #794 of 805 Old 08-13-2016, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctmart View Post
Hi,
Just wanted to thank LilMike for the Lil'Wrecker design!

THANK YOU!

About the build:
Im using the Alpine SWS-15D4 as the driver.
But, as "bass insanity" is kicking in the more I use it, Im eyeing the Kicker as a future 'upgrade'.

Ive included a few pics of the sub, fwiw.
It's mounted on casters, and if I had to make one recommendation, it would be to add another piece of plywood to the bottom if using casters.
The amount of vibration/air moving about in the mouth of this sub is impressive!

It's for use in our outdoor theater.
The L/R are Yamaha S115's.
The sub is driven by an inuke 3000, the L/R amp is a Yamaha avr with about 100w/channel.

The measurements were done outdoors @ 3' with REW and a UMM-6 mic.
The first scan of the sub is w/o any eq, the second is with several dsp filters to match the target curve.

Again, THANKS Mike!

Regards,
-Cliff
Nice job Cliff and thanks for the info on the sub using casters and needing an extra board. When I do build one of these cabinets I plan to use casters so this is good to know.

I was wondering if you added a HPF somewhere below 20hz and if not how is the subwoofer handling it?

Have fun,

Chris

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"He will learn patience. Was I any different when you taught me?" Obi-Wan
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post #795 of 805 Old 08-13-2016, 11:53 AM
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Nice job Cliff and thanks for the info on the sub using casters and needing an extra board. When I do build one of these cabinets I plan to use casters so this is good to know.

I was wondering if you added a HPF somewhere below 20hz and if not how is the subwoofer handling it?

Have fun,
Hi Chris,
Im using a set of dsp filters in the iNuke amp to limit response below 20hz.

I used the dsp setup as described in this thread: "how to extend high pass filter below 20hz" as a starting place*.

Then applied filters as advised in the thread "basic REW inuke" *.

I also setup the amp's limiter to 500w (ish) so the iNuke is less likely to 'nuke' the speaker.

The iNuke amp has a very useful set of dsp filters and limiter (and a ridiculously loud fan).

*apologies, forum wont let me post links yet.

Regards,
-Cliff
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post #796 of 805 Old 08-16-2016, 12:54 AM
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Would this work with Alpine Type-R SWR-15D4 (or D2) have anyone actually tried ? Cant buy SWS here in Fin, couldnt find 'em on whole EU while searched.. Too freaking expensive to ship from US.
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post #797 of 805 Old 08-16-2016, 01:17 PM - Thread Starter
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As far as I know, no one has tried the Type Rs.

If the specs I dug up at Alpine are accurate and current, either impedance option for the Alpine Type R 15s should work fine.

The biggest challenge will be to physically fit the drivers into the horn, the Alpine driver is a bit deeper than the Kicker CVX. It should still fit inside, but there's not a lot of room.
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post #798 of 805 Old 08-17-2016, 07:13 AM
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These subs are insane! I ran an Atmos demo clip last night, and there's a thunderstorm clip that made my room feel like it was about to come apart!

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #799 of 805 Old 09-08-2016, 07:11 AM
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Hi I'm new here. Pardon a silly question. How does one attach and upload things on this forum? I've finally begun to get the hang of Hornresp from reading around this awesome forum and would like to start thread of questions. I'm sorry am detracting from the topic on hand.
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post #800 of 805 Old 09-08-2016, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bazzard View Post
Hi I'm new here. Pardon a silly question. How does one attach and upload things on this forum? I've finally begun to get the hang of Hornresp from reading around this awesome forum and would like to start thread of questions. I'm sorry am detracting from the topic on hand.
I believe there's a minimum post count (maybe 5) that you need to reach before attachments are allowed.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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post #801 of 805 Old 09-08-2016, 10:55 AM
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I'm new here. Pardon a silly question. How does one attach and upload things on this forum? I've finally begun to get the hang of Hornresp from reading around this awesome forum and would like to start thread of questions. I'm sorry am detracting from the topic on hand.[/QUOTE]

Quote:
Originally Posted by iconrl View Post
I believe there's a minimum post count (maybe 5) that you need to reach before attachments are allowed.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Thanks I'll keep posting. While I'm at it, please pretend am a four year old and explain how standing waves and long panel resonances are factored in(or out) in articulating the long folds of a tapped horn enclosure since they may fall within the passband of the sub. Thanks for your patience.
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post #802 of 805 Old 09-09-2016, 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Bazzard View Post
Hi I'm new here. Pardon a silly question. How does one attach and upload things on this forum? I've finally begun to get the hang of Hornresp from reading around this awesome forum and would like to start thread of questions. I'm sorry am detracting from the topic on hand.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bazzard View Post
I'm new here. Pardon a silly question. How does one attach and upload things on this forum? I've finally begun to get the hang of Hornresp from reading around this awesome forum and would like to start thread of questions. I'm sorry am detracting from the topic on hand.


Thanks I'll keep posting. While I'm at it, please pretend am a four year old and explain how standing waves and long panel resonances are factored in(or out) in articulating the long folds of a tapped horn enclosure since they may fall within the passband of the sub. Thanks for your patience.[/QUOTE]

On page 5 of this thread Ricci cautioned about the unpredictable effect of heavy coil inductance of some sub drivers on FR in tapped horns. Does the 'large voice coil' check box under schematics of loudspeaker wizard in Hornresp V39.6 seek to address this issue since it radically changes the FR while modelling some drivers when the box is ticked?
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post #803 of 805 Old 09-10-2016, 01:06 PM
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I seem to have said something wrong! Forgive me. Please carry on with your discussion. I was only trying to grab some basics for proper comprehension
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post #804 of 805 Old 09-10-2016, 02:32 PM
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Can this Sub be built using MDF?
The price of Quality Plywood in Australia is very high.
I hate using MDF but it is 1/4 the price.
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post #805 of 805 Old 09-11-2016, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Bazzard View Post
I seem to have said something wrong! Forgive me. Please carry on with your discussion. I was only trying to grab some basics for proper comprehension
I didn't reply because I didn't know the answer to your question. Maybe somebody else will chime in.
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