Looks like I'm a little late to the party. I'm just going to copy and paste what I've reposted several times here. The system I recommend is bullet proof, but I've yet to see anyone on here use it. I feel like the Men's Wearhouse guy. "You'll like the way they look I guarantee it"
Dye the wood with acetone/dye mix. Use a black dye of course. You can purchase dye from Woodcraft, Sherwin Williams, ML Campbell, Gemini, or Rockler. My preference would be ML Campbell, Sherwin Williams, Woodcraft/Rockler in that order, however, you will find smaller quantities and lower pricing by going with Woodcraft/Rockler. After dyeing the wood use a quart of Sherwin Williams BAC Wiping Stain Ebony base, have it tinted with black BAC colorant. Wipe stain on with a rag. Let sit 5-15 minutes. Wipe off. Apply 2nd coat if required, let sit, and wipe. Don't apply more than 2 coats as this can effect topcoat adhesion. Ideally you would spray on your topcoat of choice. If you are an experienced sprayer I personally would spray 3 coats of catalyzed lacquer that has also been very lightly shaded with black dye or colorant. If not I would spray Polycrylic and add a small amount of dye to it also (although you could skip the dye/top coat step if you choose). Upload pictures and pound your chest as a proud father of a new rich black stained sub. The end.
But whatever you do please don't go out and buy Minwax ebony stain and think it will turn out the way you want it to. Remember sales figures don't always make a product competent, ie Bose....Minwax stains are no exception to this rule!
I'm sorry beast I couldn't be less impressed with Minwax stains. I make a living using, selling, trouble shooting, distributing the Minwax line (amongst others), but I couldn't recommend it to a client and hope to retain my business. To me it's the Bose of the business. Accounts for over 80% of quarts sold in the US, but rarely performs. Sounds like you were one of the lucky ones to be satisfied.
Whatever above mentioned manufacturer's system you choose I would stick to the principles of dying, staining, sealing. You can prestain condition if it helps with peace of mind. I'm only luke warm on it's effectiveness. The one thing I would recommend against though is using a gel stain. I work in the commercial cabinet, novelty wood finishing market, and I can say without hesitation that no production cabinet shop I know deals in gel stains. Spray stains and wiping stains are by far the most common. Hence why I recommend the BAC Wiping Stain from SW. Are there better options. Sure. Are there better options you can easily get your hands on. None that I'm aware of.
If you get through the dye, stain, seal process and decide there is still too much visible graining then add a few drops of dye your sealer. This will give a slightly more opaque look as opposed to the transparency of a clear sealer. And speaking of sealers your waterborne options will be the most "clear' of your options. Poly will have a slight gold tint to it. While I'm partial to lacquer systems a good compromise may be a waterborne lacquer. Shortened dry time, durable, all while remaining clear. The only caveat is it must be spray applied.