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post #1 of 12 Old 01-16-2013, 07:48 AM - Thread Starter
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What should i be looking at in the way of DIY subs? Primarily HT and gaming or TV use, some music.

Want low extension as much as possible.

Weird room 16 x 22 ish, open on 2 sides and open above as 2 story.

Want to be able to go as low as possible, don't necessarily need it really loud.

I will be using a Denon 2113 if that makes a difference. Not sure what "desired tune" i would need or "ported/sealed" or any of that either.

Just a noob looking for help
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post #2 of 12 Old 01-16-2013, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnCHellblazer View Post

What should i be looking at in the way of DIY subs? Primarily HT and gaming or TV use, some music.

Want low extension as much as possible.

Weird room 16 x 22 ish, open on 2 sides and open above as 2 story.

Want to be able to go as low as possible, don't necessarily need it really loud.

I will be using a Denon 2113 if that makes a difference. Not sure what "desired tune" i would need or "ported/sealed" or any of that either.

Just a noob looking for help

What is your budget?

What room restrictions do you have on the size of the box?

For about $1K you should be able to build a pair of sealed boxes using the Dayton 18" driver here:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-472

And then power them with this amp:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Behringer-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/17656014

This should give you plenty of output and extension for just under $1K (drivers, anp, wood, other materials, etc).

But there are tons of options based on your budget and cabinet restrictions.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-16-2013, 11:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Somewhere in that range i guess, maybe a little less.

I want to EXCEED HSU VTF 15, Outlaw LFE-1 EX or SVS PB 13's if possible. Primarily HT, games, TV with some music thrown in
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-16-2013, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnCHellblazer View Post

Somewhere in that range i guess, maybe a little less.

I want to EXCEED HSU VTF 15, Outlaw LFE-1 EX or SVS PB 13's if possible. Primarily HT, games, TV with some music thrown in

I think the above suggestion is quite good.

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post #5 of 12 Old 01-16-2013, 11:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Probably dont need 2, though that seems to be preferred by people on the site. If i did do 2, they would need to be some sort of end table type of design to get past the WAF.

also saw this below on the PE site:

For a premade sealed enclosure you'll want the 3ft^3 Dayton in your choice of finish with no cutouts. You'll need to call PE to see if they'll cut the panels for this sub and your plate amp. If not you'll have to cut the MDF yourself.

For a vented enclosure you'll have to build one from scratch, or contract someone to build it for you. For optimum (flat) performance it will need to be 9.5ft^3 net with 2x 3inch round port tubes 7" long. Such a box will be very heavy. Outer dimensions using 1.5" MDF (two layers of 3/4" bonded together) would be 48x16x30, requiring two people to carry it. This would be a coffee table setup and you'd want 4" legs on it with the sub and ports in a downfiring configuration.

And of course on another post it waned NOT to do downfiring.

so yeah. kinda lost
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-16-2013, 11:36 AM
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Those (from PE site) are both terrible recommendations. 3 cu ft sealed is too small. 1.5" mdf is unnecessary, and two 3" ports are way too small. Down firing would be preferred.

2 15's would be better than 1 18 for evening response out in your room. Of course 2 18's is even better.

If you decide to build sealed you will have the deepest extension, but will give up SPL and require some EQ down low to realize that benefit.

If you build ported you gain some output at tuning. 14-17 hz is good and low but will still require a high pass filter.
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-16-2013, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnCHellblazer View Post

Probably dont need 2, though that seems to be preferred by people on the site. If i did do 2, they would need to be some sort of end table type of design to get past the WAF.

also saw this below on the PE site:

For a premade sealed enclosure you'll want the 3ft^3 Dayton in your choice of finish with no cutouts. You'll need to call PE to see if they'll cut the panels for this sub and your plate amp. If not you'll have to cut the MDF yourself.

For a vented enclosure you'll have to build one from scratch, or contract someone to build it for you. For optimum (flat) performance it will need to be 9.5ft^3 net with 2x 3inch round port tubes 7" long. Such a box will be very heavy. Outer dimensions using 1.5" MDF (two layers of 3/4" bonded together) would be 48x16x30, requiring two people to carry it. This would be a coffee table setup and you'd want 4" legs on it with the sub and ports in a downfiring configuration.

And of course on another post it waned NOT to do downfiring.

so yeah. kinda lost

Forget the PE recommendations. You could absolutely build an end table type of design for these, but you might be better off doing with a sealed dual opposed style design if you go in that direction (end table) the dual opposed configuration will cancel out vibrations in the cabinet so you could use it as an end table. Something using the above Dayton drivers would be fine and would give you one end table for under $1K using the same amp above. See Gorilla83's thread on building a dual opposed box using the Dayton 18" drivers.

Or you could get four of these:http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-190

And build two dual opposed end table subs. I am actually building four single cab 3.8 cu ft subs right now using these 15" Dayton drivers. I currently have an Hsu VTF-15H and the four DIY subs will offer considerably more output and extension for $1K than the Hsu.

If you have sometime, I would download Winisd Pro and model some of these drivers in a box:
http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro

If you want downfiring you could also do a Sonotube style design such as the one that Stereodude recently did. I would advice you to look through the completed subs via the sticky on this site and look for some box designs that make sense to you.
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-16-2013, 12:01 PM - Thread Starter
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The two end tables with dual opposed 15" sounds kinda cool and like it would be possible to make a very nice one ... As long as it wouldn't rattle the stuff on the table:)

how would i go about doing that exactly?

I am a complete noob
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-16-2013, 12:05 PM
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Rattle stuff on the table? It should rattle the whole room.

So you need to pick some speakers first. Then an amp, and then model the enclosure w/ some software.

A DO end table would probably be easier with the drivers facing the sides than up/down. You are going to need about 6-7 cu ft net for 2 15" DVC's or HO's. More for HF's, a little less for the new Stereo Integrity 15's.
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post #10 of 12 Old 01-16-2013, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nograveconcern View Post

Rattle stuff on the table? It should rattle the whole room.

So you need to pick some speakers first. Then an amp, and then model the enclosure w/ some software.

A DO end table would probably be easier with the drivers facing the sides than up/down. You are going to need about 6-7 cu ft net for 2 15" DVC's or HO's. More for HF's, a little less for the new Stereo Integrity 15's.

What he said smile.gif

The link I sent you to Winisd Pro will allow you to model some boxes.

This should get you started on what it is and how to use it (it is free):
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-general-discussion/6330-winisd-pro-tutorial-download-detailed-guide-how-use-winisd-pro.html#axzz2IAhH0l7W

I was a noob too, but once I got the hang of using Winisd Pro and folks like nograveconcern helped answer my questions, things started to make sense. As nograveconcern said, you are looking at a 6-7 cu sq ft enclosure for dual opposed drivers, but if you are trying to minimize vibration, this is the way to go.

You can play around with this site to get an idea of how big a 6-7 cu ft enclosure is:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/enclosure-volume-calculator/#axzz2IAhH0l7W

Something like a 24x24x24" box should get it done. You can go a little taller if you want the box to be more narrow but this will most likely be dictated by your sofa.

Other things to consider are material (MDF, Baltic Birch, etc). I would stick with 3/4" material for an end table and you have lots of options for the top (glass, wood, granite). Again, search around and see what other folks have done with subs as an end table.

Once you determine the dimensions, you can always take them to Home Depot and have them cut the wood to your dimensions for you from a full sheet of MDF or plywood. They will most likely charge you extra, but it may be worth it if you have not done this before. Then you need to cut the baffles for the woofers using a router and a jig. If you don't own a router you can either try and borrow one, buy one, or rent one. There is going to be some work on your part here to get this done, but in the end it will be worth the results as you simply wont get the same performance from a commerical sub without spending more money. Most likely about double.
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post #11 of 12 Old 11-27-2013, 08:27 AM - Thread Starter
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what about THIS kit from PE? or something similar.

I am not sure about the whole ported sealed thing but i do know i want clean deep bass. The wife doesn't like the sloppy bass we heard from some subs at Best Buy.

If sealed keeps it stable, then that is fine.

HSU, Outlaw, SVS also possible ... If there are any of the cool graphs that show extension on them, that will be great.
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post #12 of 12 Old 11-27-2013, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnCHellblazer View Post

I am not sure about the whole ported sealed thing but i do know i want clean deep bass.
Sealed versus ported is a matter of room size. Small rooms can use sealed because cabin gain will fill in the low end. In large rooms it won't. That can mean needing twice as many sealed versus ported to get the same result in a large room.
Quote:
The wife doesn't like the sloppy bass we heard from some subs at Best Buy.
That had nothing to do with being ported, it had everything to do with being poor designs.

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