New Dayton Audio Ultimax 15" Subwoofer at PE - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 73 Old 04-07-2014, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by FMW View Post

It would be more than adequate in my room. Don't forget that adding drivers increases SPL and thereby reduces power requirements per driver. Try it. You can always add more later if you like.

Yeah I own a crown 2500 now so i figured it best to try that first. I can't go nuts anyway.... Neighbors. The 8 drivers is to lower amp requirements while maintaining SPL and smooth response, not to take the paint off the walls

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post #62 of 73 Old 05-15-2014, 06:44 AM
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how is that working out for you Blazar? I am impressed with the one I have so have ordered another smile.gif
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post #63 of 73 Old 05-15-2014, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

And probably not fully power them as in that configuration you would give about ~200w per driver.

I'd say 200watts is the minimum.

My 6 are seeing ~800watts each, and they do just fine; but I don't push them anywhere near the limits, usually just 0-15mm P-P.
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Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

The UM15, as others have said, is not a very good pick for a mid-bass sub, neither would most other standard "home theater subwoofers:". What you want to look for, instead, is a pro-woofer that has good sensitivity. i would recommend something like a JBL, or B&C, or something similar.

I do both. I have pro woofers for mid bass and I use UM's for mid bass. The pro woofers kick out a lot more mid bass and with less watts.
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post #64 of 73 Old 05-15-2014, 11:51 AM
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I ultimately went for the lab gruppen PLM 10000Q used which has built in PEQ which is really very good. This gives me about 25000 watts per channel into 2 ohm loads x4 boxes for 10000watts max power output.

In one box (2u) i was able to power all the subs about 800watts more than their RMS requirements, PEQ them, and never be concerned that i will clip the amp.

It is a phenomenal piece of gear... I actually didnt try to push the crown XLS experiment too far before i tried then LG amp so I can't comment much on that.

I figured the used LG amp is well worth the money and I am quite pleased with the purchase!

My only wish: LG amps would be nicer with a 12v on/off trigger input...

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post #65 of 73 Old 05-15-2014, 01:00 PM
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One more comment: for 8 subwoofer drivers, i would have been better off doing on amp channel PER driver at 4 ohms each instead of doing 4 channels running 4 driver pairs. This way I could have simply purchased 4 crown stereo amplifiers which are cheaper. On the other hand some folks said that the LG provides a much more reliable power that meets the advertised specs.

No regrets though , the LG PLM amps are damn cool...

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post #66 of 73 Old 05-16-2014, 04:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blazar View Post

One more comment: for 8 subwoofer drivers, i would have been better off doing on amp channel PER driver at 4 ohms each instead of doing 4 channels running 4 driver pairs. This way I could have simply purchased 4 crown stereo amplifiers which are cheaper. On the other hand some folks said that the LG provides a much more reliable power that meets the advertised specs.

No regrets though , the LG PLM amps are damn cool...

Did you purchase an LG clone amp from China, or the real deal from someone in the USA? I would love to be able to afford an LG! Another option if you had not already purchased the Lab would have been to purchase 4 iNuke3000dsp amplifiers and use one channel per sub with the abilities to easily EQ each sub individually!
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post #67 of 73 Old 05-16-2014, 06:12 AM
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I did the ebay route and did one LG PLM 10000Q for $4K. One of the safest high end audio purchases I have made in a long time.

The thing is built like a tank and easily a better overall product than my marantz 8801 in terms of incorporated technology.

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post #68 of 73 Old 05-22-2014, 10:57 AM
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This Dayton 15" sub in a 3cf sealed box or Dayton 18" HO driver in a 4cf box? For movie use exclusively. Thanks!
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post #69 of 73 Old 05-22-2014, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by SXRDISBEST View Post

This Dayton 15" sub in a 3cf sealed box or Dayton 18" HO driver in a 4cf box? For movie use exclusively. Thanks!
18 is more capable all around.
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post #70 of 73 Old 06-10-2014, 12:20 PM
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I am testing a UM15 in free air with a Behringer nu1000dsp. I'm new to DIY so I'm not sure if what I'm experiencing is normal. I am getting almost no volume out of the sub. The driver is moving a good amount and I have the volume control on channel A on the amp 3/4 of the way up. It's beidged so I should be getting all the amp is capable of. Are you supposed to hear a lot of bass in free air??
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post #71 of 73 Old 06-10-2014, 12:26 PM
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Should have a little noise from the suspension, but should not sound like a sub. The front wave is being cancelled out by the back wave. This is why you use a box or baffle to only hear the front wave of the speaker. Be careful you don't bottom out the sub before you get it in a box, it's way easier to move the cone too far in free air. Sounds like you are doing fine.
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post #72 of 73 Old 06-10-2014, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by More is Better View Post

Should have a little noise from the suspension, but should not sound like a sub. The front wave is being cancelled out by the back wave. This is why you use a box or baffle to only hear the front wave of the speaker. Be careful you don't bottom out the sub before you get it in a box, it's way easier to move the cone too far in free air. Sounds like you are doing fine.


Awesome. Thanks for the advice!
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post #73 of 73 Old 06-11-2014, 09:15 PM
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Are you supposed to hear a lot of bass in free air??
Nope
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