SEOS Tempest Build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 20 Old 02-01-2013, 07:48 AM - Thread Starter
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OK first off let me say that Erichs flat pack kit is so easy that I only needed a betsy clamp that goes all the way around the box and some weight to actually glue and asssemble it.

I couldn't wait to listen to these so here is the one that I got complete last night in just bare MDF.



The crossover that my fiance built... All i had to do was help twist and solder the connections. I think she did a pretty good job.



The board is around 7x8 which fits in between the braces on the side of the box...

Now, I only managed to get one done and running so I'll take some pictures of the last one going together but all I have to say is wow. My previous setup is Polk Audio Monitor 70's up front and with just one of these Tempest playing it blows both of them out of the water. Vocals are so clear and it just seems like it never runs out of volume even on AVR power. I will report more once I get the other one up and running.
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post #2 of 20 Old 02-01-2013, 08:01 AM
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Looking good.

Builds: Maelstrom 21 Ottoman Build, Dual Opposed MFW's x 2, Statements, SEOS-12/TD12M x 5. 
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post #3 of 20 Old 02-01-2013, 08:09 AM
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Great Start!

Also, IDK how much it matters in your case but I think generally you should rotate the inductors so that they dont couple.
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post #4 of 20 Old 02-01-2013, 08:17 AM
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There's a SEOS invasion going on at AVS! Nice work, glad to hear you are enjoying them. What are you plans for finish??
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post #5 of 20 Old 02-01-2013, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Great Start!

Also, IDK how much it matters in your case but I think generally you should rotate the inductors so that they dont couple.
Looking good Shan. I'm super happy with my Tempests and looking forward to reading more of your thoughts. The crossovers look solid too, nice and clean and compact. I do agree with Nick though, although I've never tested to see how much of an audible difference it makes. See the following for some real-world inductor measurements and placement advice: Coil Placement.
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post #6 of 20 Old 02-01-2013, 08:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Great Start!

Also, IDK how much it matters in your case but I think generally you should rotate the inductors so that they dont couple.

I'm a bit new to crossovers... are you saying stand one of the inductors up?

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There's a SEOS invasion going on at AVS! Nice work, glad to hear you are enjoying them. What are you plans for finish??

I'm not sure at this point... the other half wants to get away from black but I kind of want to do a finish similar to the sub its sitting on. Going to have to do something as my 'theater' is also my living room.
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post #7 of 20 Old 02-01-2013, 08:42 AM
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Here is some good info.

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post #8 of 20 Old 02-01-2013, 08:43 AM
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I spoke to the durarex guys, apparently they sell a version (not in the website) that can be tinted. perhaps that might work for you?
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post #9 of 20 Old 02-01-2013, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is some good info.


Ah, wouldn't have thought that would make a difference but easy fix... I'll make sure to do the next one that way.
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post #10 of 20 Old 02-01-2013, 01:06 PM
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The crossover that my fiance built... All i had to do was help twist and solder the connections. I think she did a pretty good job.


 

 

Here is another Tempest crossover with a good inductor layout.

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post #11 of 20 Old 02-01-2013, 02:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Should I rotate the copper colored inductor as well or will it be fine?
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post #12 of 20 Old 02-01-2013, 03:08 PM
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You just want it so that they aren't aligned in the same orientation. Check the link I posted in my first reply for which orientation pairs are safest/best. The smaller one is a good choice for one of the ones standing up simply because it's lighter but the specifics don't matter a ton.
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post #13 of 20 Old 02-03-2013, 01:56 PM
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post #14 of 20 Old 02-03-2013, 03:03 PM - Thread Starter
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New board layout...

Boards are mounted between the braces on the side of the box... the panel fits perfectly there. I'll snap a picture when I pull the other woofer out and fix the inductor lay out.

Now that I have both up and running I must say WOW, they play so loud and clear with just AVR power. I find myself constantly turning the volume louder and louder... can't get enough. Music sounds fantastic with my ultra's picking up the low end. The polks just couldn't keep up at these levels. I also have the monitor 70's in my bedroom I can kinda A/B compare them and going from one to the other you can hear a lot of the mid range that is missing with the polks that I wouldn't have been able to tell otherwise... Could be the room or could be the compression driver vs a tweeter I don't know but I like it. smile.gif

Now I just have to figure out how to raise these speakers up some... I've got them on the floor tilted a pretty good ways back for the time being. Yes, I'm very very impatient.
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post #15 of 20 Old 02-03-2013, 03:30 PM
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That crossover looks nice. Anyone know if you can buy Romex by the foot at a place like HomeDepot?

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post #16 of 20 Old 02-04-2013, 04:18 AM
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"New board layout..."

nice work. that is the way to do the inductors and your layout is very clean.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #17 of 20 Old 04-19-2013, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
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New board layout...

Boards are mounted between the braces on the side of the box... the panel fits perfectly there. I'll snap a picture when I pull the other woofer out and fix the inductor lay out.

Now that I have both up and running I must say WOW, they play so loud and clear with just AVR power. I find myself constantly turning the volume louder and louder... can't get enough. Music sounds fantastic with my ultra's picking up the low end. The polks just couldn't keep up at these levels. I also have the monitor 70's in my bedroom I can kinda A/B compare them and going from one to the other you can hear a lot of the mid range that is missing with the polks that I wouldn't have been able to tell otherwise... Could be the room or could be the compression driver vs a tweeter I don't know but I like it. smile.gif

Now I just have to figure out how to raise these speakers up some... I've got them on the floor tilted a pretty good ways back for the time being. Yes, I'm very very impatient.

Hate to be negative but someone has to say it. That crossover board is a mechanical nightmare, especially for mounting in a vibration-rich environment like inside of a loudspeaker.

Doing it righter ain't hard - just put a round head brass wood screw at every location where components are soldered to each other. Wrap the component leads around the brass screw and solder with a 30-40 watt iron that can really get the joint cooking in short order.

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post #18 of 20 Old 04-19-2013, 12:30 PM
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Hate to be negative but someone has to say it. That crossover board is a mechanical nightmare, especially for mounting in a vibration-rich environment like inside of a loudspeaker.

Doing it righter ain't hard - just put a round head brass wood screw at every location where components are soldered to each other. Wrap the component leads around the brass screw and solder with a 30-40 watt iron that can really get the joint cooking in short order.

 

I've never seen anyone build a crossover with brass screws for soldering onto...

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post #19 of 20 Old 04-19-2013, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnyk View Post

Hate to be negative but someone has to say it. That crossover board is a mechanical nightmare, especially for mounting in a vibration-rich environment like inside of a loudspeaker.

Doing it righter ain't hard - just put a round head brass wood screw at every location where components are soldered to each other. Wrap the component leads around the brass screw and solder with a 30-40 watt iron that can really get the joint cooking in short order.



I've never seen anyone build a crossover with brass screws for soldering onto...

That comment would appear to be about what you don't know, not about what what you know can't work. Face it man, the little brass screws cost pennies to buy, are available in just about every hardware and big box home improvement store in the world, and take only a few minutes to try... ;-)

Building crossovers without providing good mechanical support for the components invites failure. If you are serious, at least some of the parts will also be ty-wrapped to the board. I'd post pictures of my recent projects, but everything I've built lately used active crossovers and had no parts other than drivers inside the box.

Forget I said anything, and keep on building projects with improperly mechanically supported components in your crossovers that are more prone to failure, or support those components by far more tedious and expensive means than simply soldering the components to cheap, strong brass screws.
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post #20 of 20 Old 04-19-2013, 02:31 PM
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I've never seen anyone build a crossover with brass screws for soldering onto...
I don't. The picture looks good to me, other than the lack of plastic ties, adhesive alone may not hold up.

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