SEOS Tempest LCR Build for Theatre Room! My second DIY Audio project. - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 88 Old 02-21-2013, 04:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I just got notification from Erich that my order of three Jeff Bagby Design SEOS Tempests has shipped!  So I feel like its appropriate to start my build thread!

 

Proof below!:

 

 

Items Ordered | Track your order

Product Name SKU Price Qty Subtotal
Order Subtotal $945.00
Shipping & Handling $0.00
Grand Total $945.00
Fusion-12 Tempest
Compression Driver Options
I need the included DNA-360
Waveguide Options
I want the included SEOS-12 with a matte finish
Anticipation Level
I can't wait to build this speaker!
Fusion-12-kit-Keep DNA-360-Keep waveguide matte- You picked a great speaker! $315.00 Ordered: 3
Shipped: 3
$945.00
 

 

This will be my second venture into DIY Audio, my first being a Lilmike's F20.

 

I was really tempted to order the flat packs but I feel like since this is only my second DIY audio project that I really want to expand and improve on my skills and be able to say that I did it myself!  Luckily one of my Co-Workers has a decent shop setup and he is going to let me use his shop to cut the MDF for my boxes. If I have figured out how to use cutlist properly it looks like I will only need two sheets of MDF so for the price of one of the flat packs I should be able to build all three cabinets.

 

I plan on using MDF and painting the cabinets with Duratex as I really like the look and these are going behind an AT screen.

 

Some questions for you guys ahead of time and Is there anything else I need besides what I have listed?:

 

I have everything I need for soldering the crossovers.

 

Speaker connectors (I think I will use Speakons.)

 

Speaker Gasket tape (Do I need this for the horn and the woofer?)

 

I have hurricane nuts from my F20 build, do I need these or should I just screw the woofer and horn directly into the MDF?

 

For bracing should I just go with the dowel method?

 

What about dampening the horn, I see a lot of horn builds were the horn is wrapped with some kind of calk and taped over?

 

Any other advice will be appreciated.

 

I look forward to sharing my build progress with the forum!

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post #2 of 88 Old 02-21-2013, 07:00 PM
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Nice choice, you will love them I'm sure! As to your questions,

I like to use gasket tape on all the builds I've done, including the lastest SEOS Sentinel build, for sub drivers, mid woofers and the horns.

I don't use hurricane nuts myself and mine work out well just screwing the drivers directly to the mdf. Some folks use the Hnuts and like them too.

The dowel method is certainly the easiest and most efficient, but I like to build nice looking bracing...I am the guys that thinks, "nobody will ever see it, but I will know it looks nice".

On my sentinels, I did nothing to the horn except bolt the CD to it and stuff it a well damped section of the enclosure...they soudn fantastic. I haven't ever tried to damp the horn body directly, so I can't tell you if it helps, but some folks do that too.


Good luck with the build, enjoy em'!
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post #3 of 88 Old 02-21-2013, 07:22 PM
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How long after ordering did you get a shipping notice? I'm waiting for my three Tempests to ship. Seems like the Tempest is one of the more popular kits Eric offers.

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post #4 of 88 Old 02-21-2013, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopShop1 View Post

Nice choice, you will love them I'm sure! As to your questions,

I like to use gasket tape on all the builds I've done, including the lastest SEOS Sentinel build, for sub drivers, mid woofers and the horns.

I don't use hurricane nuts myself and mine work out well just screwing the drivers directly to the mdf. Some folks use the Hnuts and like them too.

The dowel method is certainly the easiest and most efficient, but I like to build nice looking bracing...I am the guys that thinks, "nobody will ever see it, but I will know it looks nice".

On my sentinels, I did nothing to the horn except bolt the CD to it and stuff it a well damped section of the enclosure...they soudn fantastic. I haven't ever tried to damp the horn body directly, so I can't tell you if it helps, but some folks do that too.


Good luck with the build, enjoy em'!

Chopshop thanks for the quick reply!

I will just screw to the mdf then, looks like that's what most are doing. Yeah I am usually the same about things people can't see but in this case I am trying to set my OCD aside for practicality and time constraints, all though I think you might have ruined that for me and now I will need to make pretty braces and crossover boards!
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post #5 of 88 Old 02-21-2013, 07:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

How long after ordering did you get a shipping notice? I'm waiting for my three Tempests to ship. Seems like the Tempest is one of the more popular kits Eric offers.

Mrkazador,

I ordered them on the eighth of this month and I just today got shipping notice! So just shy of two weeks. No complaints from me on that I honestly expected longer with everything Erich is doing. I just can't believe how much of his own resources he has put into this for the benefit of the community.
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post #6 of 88 Old 02-21-2013, 08:05 PM
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I ordered mine on the 9th so just a day after your order. Hopefully it ships soon. This will also be my second build and I'm skipping the flat packs too. I bought all these tools for my sub build and need to put them to good use! Good luck on the build, I'll be watching this thread.

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post #7 of 88 Old 02-21-2013, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheezit73 View Post

Chopshop thanks for the quick reply!

I will just screw to the mdf then, looks like that's what most are doing. Yeah I am usually the same about things people can't see but in this case I am trying to set my OCD aside for practicality and time constraints, all though I think you might have ruined that for me and now I will need to make pretty braces and crossover boards!

Hahaha...sorry about that biggrin.gif

It's funny how it happens, you start the simple way and never even realize the ocd got ya until it's all over
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post #8 of 88 Old 02-22-2013, 05:40 AM
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The dowl bracing can look good to.

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post #9 of 88 Old 02-22-2013, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

I ordered mine on the 9th so just a day after your order. Hopefully it ships soon. This will also be my second build and I'm skipping the flat packs too. I bought all these tools for my sub build and need to put them to good use! Good luck on the build, I'll be watching this thread.

Yours will be going out today. The sealed baffles took a little longer to get done.

The problem happened when the 4 cuft subwoofer flat packs went up. People were waiting a while for them to get on the site and over 45 got ordered in a couple days right around when you and a few others ordered SEOS speakers. I try to go in order on shipping things if I can, but right around that 3-4 day span, I think there were about 80 packages that needed boxing up. I'm about 12 days out right now, but over the weekend I should be able to get that down to about 5-7 days, maybe less. I'll be looking into some part time help soon.
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post #10 of 88 Old 02-22-2013, 11:11 AM - Thread Starter
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The dowl bracing can look good to.

Noted! Thanks :)

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post #11 of 88 Old 02-22-2013, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post


Yours will be going out today. The sealed baffles took a little longer to get done.

The problem happened when the 4 cuft subwoofer flat packs went up. People were waiting a while for them to get on the site and over 45 got ordered in a couple days right around when you and a few others ordered SEOS speakers. I try to go in order on shipping things if I can, but right around that 3-4 day span, I think there were about 80 packages that needed boxing up. I'm about 12 days out right now, but over the weekend I should be able to get that down to about 5-7 days, maybe less. I'll be looking into some part time help soon.


Thanks, I really appreciate it.

 

For bracing my cabinets I'm going to do something similar to what eric is doing on the flatpacks but not as nicetongue.gif

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post #12 of 88 Old 02-26-2013, 08:36 PM - Thread Starter
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post #13 of 88 Old 02-26-2013, 09:48 PM
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Zip ties or hot glue gun to hold down the components. If you want to get fancy then get some terminal blocks and spade forks.

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post #14 of 88 Old 02-27-2013, 07:24 PM - Thread Starter
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My care package arrived today and I will echo what everyone else has said, Erichs packaging is excellent!!!!!!!

 

Here is a crappy cell phone pick:

 

 

 

My friend will be helping me cut the MDF for the boxes on Saturday!

 

Also to my surprise included in the box of stuff was three strips of speaker gasket for the Wave guides!

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post #15 of 88 Old 02-27-2013, 07:27 PM
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Wow, it even looks like the ports were cut to the correct length too! Impressive stuff. biggrin.gif
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post #16 of 88 Old 02-27-2013, 07:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow, it even looks like the ports were cut to the correct length too! Impressive stuff. biggrin.gif

Yes yes indeed! Thanks Erich!

 

While your browsing quick question, The hardware package in with all the crossover stuff there are six threaded rods and nuts which I assume are for mounting the three compression drivers to the Wave Guides. I just want to confirm that I am supposed to use two on each as there are five holes that line up on each one. Just want to make sure I am not missing something and doing it correctly!

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post #17 of 88 Old 02-27-2013, 07:46 PM
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post #18 of 88 Old 02-27-2013, 07:53 PM
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Very cool, look forward to your build. If someone figures out a Tempest in-wall build I am all in!
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post #19 of 88 Old 02-27-2013, 08:07 PM - Thread Starter
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There are only 2 holes on the compression driver.

Ok , forgive my newbness, here is a picture of my compression driver which has five threaded holes which is causing my confusion:

 

 

 

Safe to assume then that I just use the outermost two?

 

Thanks I just want to get everything right!

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post #20 of 88 Old 02-27-2013, 08:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Very cool, look forward to your build. If someone figures out a Tempest in-wall build I am all in!

Thanks ack_bk, I hope to take pictures of my progress with each step!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheezit73 View Post

Ok , forgive my newbness, here is a picture of my compression driver which has five threaded holes which is causing my confusion:





Safe to assume then that I just use the outermost two?

Thanks I just want to get everything right!

that is correct, holds it very sturdy
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post #22 of 88 Old 02-27-2013, 08:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Just placed my PE order, I purchased some of the barrier terminals for the crossovers and in the end I went with regular binding posts. I used the speakon on my F20 and I like it, but it is bulky. I currently use banana plugs on everything and have had no problems. I guess it came down to that I think the pair of binding posts just looks classier than the bulky plastic of the speakon!

 

I had been thinking of going with the Duratex however I didn't realize how pricey it was. These are going to be behind an AT screen so I think I will just go with a smooth finish of flat black paint!

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post #24 of 88 Old 02-27-2013, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheezit73 View Post

Ok , forgive my newbness, here is a picture of my compression driver which has five threaded holes which is causing my confusion:



Safe to assume then that I just use the outermost two?

Thanks I just want to get everything right!

Sorry, I was typing quickly before I left. I meant there are only 2 holes needed on the compression driver. That's why there are only 2 screws for each one. Yes, it's the outer ones you need.
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post #25 of 88 Old 02-28-2013, 09:18 AM - Thread Starter
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post #26 of 88 Old 03-03-2013, 10:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Well I have all the wood cut thanks to my friend Dans help!  I am very excited as he had all the right equipment so we were able to Rabbit the edges emulating the flat packs! Should make it nice and easy to glue them up!

 

 

 

 

I will be gluing the boxes up tomorrow and I need to cut out the openings in the front panel to match the baffle.

 

I did not realize that Duratex is only available online, I am debating about just finishing them with Kilz oil based primer and then some black satin interior paint that I have leftover from my Theatre bar build. What do you guys think is the Duratex that much better that I should spend the 80.00 on it and wait for it to get here? 

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post #27 of 88 Old 03-03-2013, 06:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Also in case any body else is building three of these or I guess any of the SEOS with the same dimensions here is the cutlist I used.

 

 

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post #28 of 88 Old 03-04-2013, 05:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Help me choose what glue to use guys.

 

Here is a test clamp up of one speaker so you can see the tolerances I am working with. Is this close enough for using Tightbond or should I use PL?

 

I would like to use the tightbond I think so I can unclamp in a reasonable time to move on to the next cab (only have so many clamps.)

 

My only concern with the tightbond is do you think I will have enough time to put it all together and clamp it up before it sets, I believe I can assemble it in about five minutes.

 

Thaks guys! The baffle is on there for testing but I will glue it on separately.

 

 

 

 

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post #29 of 88 Old 03-04-2013, 05:13 PM
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I would run a few of those pieces through a table saw again and get rid of the gap. Then I would use Titebond.

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post #30 of 88 Old 03-04-2013, 05:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Well going back to the table saw is not going to be an option so I think I will just go with the PL then and maybe borrow my buddys brad nailer to assist with holding together.

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