Start to Finish Dayton 18 x 2 build (open ended theater continuation) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 03-06-2013, 12:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi all,

Thought i would post my build thread for those interested. I started a questions thread under "subs for open ended theater" and i thank all who replied and helped me along.

As a background, this is my first DIY speaker project. I toyed around with the idea of dual PU13's, rythmiks, HSU, etc... After reading through endless posts and build threads I decided to dive into the DIY speaker world. Hopefuly some find this useful. I thoroughly enjoyed building them!

My box demensions are 24Hx24Wx17 including double front baffle. Internal volume is 4.24 without bracing, probably right around 4 cu ft with bracing

List of parts:

Dayton RSS460-HO x2 - http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-472
3/4" MDF - home depot
3/4" Birch Ply for inner baffles - home depot
Locktite PL - home depot
Round Speaker Terminal cups - http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-283
Duratex Paint - http://store.acrytech.com/Speaker-Cabinet-Coating-DuraTex-Roller-Grade-Black.html
4" texture roller - http://store.acrytech.com/4-Texture-Roller-with-Handle.html
Spax #10 1.5 inch screws - home depot
Polyester Fiberfil - http://www.walmart.com/ip/Morning-Glory-Premium-Polyester-Fiberfill-5-lb.-Box/19397504?findingMethod=rr


Making the MDF cuts is pretty streight forward. Here is a shot of the bracing model I chose to do, very basic but I believe effective:




The baffle cut out was probably the trickiest part. I will say a nice plunge router is your best friend for the entire build. I chose to lamenate the mdf to the ply before cutting the baffle holes. My theory was they would be perfectly centered on top of each other. It seemed to work fine. I first cut both pieces with a little overhang on the box. Then positioned them on the box itself, tacked it down with a couple of small screws and used a flush trim bit on the router to match them up exactly to the box. Removed baffle from the box and then routed down the outer baffle and then cut out the inner baffle. worked like a charm! I used this to route the circles:



I bought it a Sears - http://www.sears.com/milescraft-router-guide-kit-1223/p-00928832000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

And here is the resulting cutouts:




After that, just simply clamped and glued to the rest of the box. I have a pnuematic nail gun set, so I used only a few brad nails here and there to secure during the clamping phase:



Flush Trim Bit is your friend



Used a little common spackle to touch up a couple of nail holes here and there and here they are ready for the finish smile.gif



Here's where we get to the fun part. Duratex ROCKS. I highly recommend it. This was my first time using this stuff and it makes me want to paint half my house with it lol. I've seen a lot of people in various posts ask about rough vs smooth finishes and how to get them with this stuff. I wanted a smoother finish with a little bit of texture, not a lot. I started off using a foam roller I bought from home depot designed for smooth finishes. This was actually in my opinion a litte harder to deal with. VERY tough to keep from getting lines while painting. I did the first coat with this and just let it dry and wasn't all that impressed. I then decided to try the texture brush I ordered in the parts list above. I didn't use it to begin with because I thought a "texture" roller would add a lot of texture that I didn't want. Not true at all... It depends on how you use it. To get the finish picuted below I gooped it on the roll pretty heavy and just kept rolling it out with the 4 inch roller. When you first roll it out it will have a heavier texture and some "air bubble" like anomolies. Just keep rolling it out until the surface is smoother, without letting it get to dry. then just use very light pressure skim across the top. I'm very happy with the way it turned out:





I stuffed each one with about 3lbs of fiberfil.



Ready for Drivers! I saw a post on another thread (sry cant remember where) where the guy took cable ties and put them through the screw holes in the driver carraige to position the driver. Excellent little tip, it helps to lower it into place. I ended up using Spax # 10 1.5 inch screws to mount. I drilled small pilot holes and then just screwed them in. They gripped beautifully and went in without a problem. My initial thought, and I still might, was to paint them black with a little touch up paint after they went in but I have to say I kind of like the silver look of them against the black of everything else. It kind of gives them an industrial bad ass look.

Here are the finished product shots!!





They will eventually be going behind the screenwall here. Carpet should hopefully be installed in a few weeks and they will go to their new home!



A HUGE thanks to everyone on these forums. No way I would have ever even considered doing this without the knowledge base around here. I would say for anyone that is new to DIY speakers you may want to consider the flat packs from DIY Sound Group http://www.diysoundgroup.com/flat-packs-1/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/4-sub-flat-pack.html. I would have but I didn't have the depth behind the screenwall to accomidate them. I would say these would make the project even easier and a complete no brainer for those considering buying off the shelf.

Thanks to all,
Phil
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post #2 of 17 Old 03-06-2013, 03:51 PM
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Beautiful!


I like the look with the chrome screws.

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post #3 of 17 Old 03-06-2013, 04:15 PM
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those look very nice, also digging the silver screws

also it seems everyone used #10 screws. i used #6 because its what i had and i didn't wanna go back to the store. wondering if this will be an issue
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post #4 of 17 Old 03-06-2013, 04:39 PM
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How wide i your screen space, about 13.5 ft?

Builds: Maelstrom 21 Ottoman Build, Dual Opposed MFW's x 2, Statements, SEOS-12/TD12M x 5. 
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post #5 of 17 Old 03-06-2013, 05:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I'm digging the silver screw look as well. Can't comment on the #6 screws, not sure, but you could probably switch them out pretty easily for piece of mind. The Spax screws are pretty solid.

The screen wall is a around 15 ft wide total and the screen itslef is a DIY 138 x 59 inch 2.35. What you see in the photo is the frame pressure fit into the opening. The side masks are on tracks and pull in from the sides for 16x9 viewing. They're retracted into the sidewall in the pic above. I have the screen material on hand and will stretch it last, after the carpet goes in (cant wait to do that!) It's a shame the speakers will be hidden behind the whole front wall tongue.gif
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post #6 of 17 Old 03-07-2013, 07:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Now that these are built I'm dying to fire them up. I'd like to get some recommendations on an amp, EQ and a mic/software for some baselines.

The room has no accouistical treatments right now except for a couple of inches of linacoustic on the front wall. I think it would be a good opportunity to take some measurements before and after adding bass traps, and wall treatments to see exactly how they affect the graphs.

I currently have an Onkyo 5009. That's it..

I'm pretty much a newb when it comes to EQ software and programming.

What's my best bet for an affordable mic/software combo to get some measurements that's plug and play without a huge learning curve or price tag.

Secondly, Regarding the amp, EP4000+minidsp? NU6000DSP? From what ive read around here these seem like popular choices. Is the minidsp a steep learning curve for a beginner? Would the 6000dsp do most everything in a more plug and play package?

I can see myself getting more evolved with this down the road but for now I want to get things up and running, take some common measurements, and fix any glaring problems with room treatments and EQ.
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post #7 of 17 Old 03-08-2013, 06:32 AM
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Excellent, simple cabinet plan with great execution.

Well done.

Jameds

Actual phone call (see pic to left):

 

Tech (responding to laughter): "I'm sorry sir, did I miss something?"

Me: "Yeah, a case of Diet Mountain Dew walking across my living room."

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post #8 of 17 Old 03-08-2013, 09:13 AM
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Nice woofage Phil!

What's your opinion of that Milescraft router jig? It looks pretty good for the price. I've been looking for something to cut out sonosub end caps and my Jasper Jig does not go big enough for that.
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post #9 of 17 Old 03-08-2013, 10:12 AM
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These look great!! That is exactly the finish I want on my subs.
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post #10 of 17 Old 03-08-2013, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyc56 View Post

Nice woofage Phil!

What's your opinion of that Milescraft router jig? It looks pretty good for the price. I've been looking for something to cut out sonosub end caps and my Jasper Jig does not go big enough for that.

i have that same jig. I like it.

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post #11 of 17 Old 03-08-2013, 12:27 PM
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I have both jigs and honestly if you're only going to be using it a few times for one size woofer you might think about just making a jig out of some scrap wood. I've done that and it worked well.

Builds: Maelstrom 21 Ottoman Build, Dual Opposed MFW's x 2, Statements, SEOS-12/TD12M x 5. 
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post #12 of 17 Old 03-08-2013, 02:40 PM - Thread Starter
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The Jig worked fine for this job. I haven't used a jasper jig so can't compare.



You simply nail that little red guide dead center of the circle with a finishing nail and the guide sits on top in that hole under the slide. I will say that you shouldn't count on the ruler up the side, it seems to be a little off. All i did was use a protractor (hadn't used one of these since like 5th grade) and drew my two circles on the baffle, positioned the center nob with finishing nail, and then slid the router on the track out until it hit the line and locked it down. Also, there is a very very slight amount of play when the guide is mounted on the center piece so make sure you keep a little tension pushing outwords as you route and keep a steady motion. All and all it was pretty easy.
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post #13 of 17 Old 03-08-2013, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post


i have that same jig. I like it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomdaf View Post

The Jig worked fine for this job. I haven't used a jasper jig so can't compare.



You simply nail that little red guide dead center of the circle with a finishing nail and the guide sits on top in that hole under the slide. I will say that you shouldn't count on the ruler up the side, it seems to be a little off. All i did was use a protractor (hadn't used one of these since like 5th grade) and drew my two circles on the baffle, positioned the center nob with finishing nail, and then slid the router on the track out until it hit the line and locked it down. Also, there is a very very slight amount of play when the guide is mounted on the center piece so make sure you keep a little tension pushing outwords as you route and keep a steady motion. All and all it was pretty easy.

Thanks guys!
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post #14 of 17 Old 03-09-2013, 03:39 AM
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As far as EQ'ing goes, I recommend a mini-Dsp with an EP4000 as opposed to an iNuke 6000DSP. I have read that the iNukes possibly roll off below 20hz with regards to their EQ'ing software. I actually have no idea if this is the case, so you might want to get some more input from other members as well. I run Behringer EP1.500's for my mains, and an EP-4000 for my subs, plus I just ordered a minidsp 10 x 10 advanced. I can't give you any impressions of the minidsp's ease of use at the moment as I have not received it yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomdaf View Post

Now that these are built I'm dying to fire them up. I'd like to get some recommendations on an amp, EQ and a mic/software for some baselines.

The room has no accouistical treatments right now except for a couple of inches of linacoustic on the front wall. I think it would be a good opportunity to take some measurements before and after adding bass traps, and wall treatments to see exactly how they affect the graphs.

I currently have an Onkyo 5009. That's it..

I'm pretty much a newb when it comes to EQ software and programming.

What's my best bet for an affordable mic/software combo to get some measurements that's plug and play without a huge learning curve or price tag.

Secondly, Regarding the amp, EP4000+minidsp? NU6000DSP? From what ive read around here these seem like popular choices. Is the minidsp a steep learning curve for a beginner? Would the 6000dsp do most everything in a more plug and play package?

I can see myself getting more evolved with this down the road but for now I want to get things up and running, take some common measurements, and fix any glaring problems with room treatments and EQ.
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post #15 of 17 Old 03-09-2013, 03:53 AM
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I didn't rely on the guide either. I left the tension loose with the router running, slid it out to my measurement, then tightened it down and went to work.

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post #16 of 17 Old 03-09-2013, 07:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Going to go with EP4000

Onkyo has 2 sub preouts. Would like to run audyssey x32 just to see what it does. Should I run 2 XLR to RCA cables from each preout to each input on EP4000?

What's a good source for these cables? I've read that monoprice XLR cables aren't so good??

I think I'll also go the minidsp route. Which model would I use in my scenario? Little confused there.

How is the Umik-1 with REW for room readings? Any others I should consider?

I'm looking for simple as possible but effective for now, any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks!
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post #17 of 17 Old 03-09-2013, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomdaf View Post

Going to go with EP4000

Onkyo has 2 sub preouts. Would like to run audyssey x32 just to see what it does. Should I run 2 XLR to RCA cables from each preout to each input on EP4000?

What's a good source for these cables? I've read that monoprice XLR cables aren't so good??

I think I'll also go the minidsp route. Which model would I use in my scenario? Little confused there.

How is the Umik-1 with REW for room readings? Any others I should consider?

I'm looking for simple as possible but effective for now, any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks!

solid choice in amp
i ran 2 outs from my AVR, or you could just use a y splitter it prob wont matter either way
i used these RCA-XLR adapters
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=240-438
got the RCA cables from monoprice

no idea about the mini DSP, i use an an omnimic as its a all in 1 solution but does cost more
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