Thought i would post my build thread for those interested. I started a questions thread under "subs for open ended theater" and i thank all who replied and helped me along.
As a background, this is my first DIY speaker project. I toyed around with the idea of dual PU13's, rythmiks, HSU, etc... After reading through endless posts and build threads I decided to dive into the DIY speaker world. Hopefuly some find this useful. I thoroughly enjoyed building them!
My box demensions are 24Hx24Wx17 including double front baffle. Internal volume is 4.24 without bracing, probably right around 4 cu ft with bracing
List of parts:
Dayton RSS460-HO x2 - http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-472
3/4" MDF - home depot
3/4" Birch Ply for inner baffles - home depot
Locktite PL - home depot
Round Speaker Terminal cups - http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-283
Duratex Paint - http://store.acrytech.com/Speaker-Cabinet-Coating-DuraTex-Roller-Grade-Black.html
4" texture roller - http://store.acrytech.com/4-Texture-Roller-with-Handle.html
Spax #10 1.5 inch screws - home depot
Polyester Fiberfil - http://www.walmart.com/ip/Morning-Glory-Premium-Polyester-Fiberfill-5-lb.-Box/19397504?findingMethod=rr
Making the MDF cuts is pretty streight forward. Here is a shot of the bracing model I chose to do, very basic but I believe effective:
The baffle cut out was probably the trickiest part. I will say a nice plunge router is your best friend for the entire build. I chose to lamenate the mdf to the ply before cutting the baffle holes. My theory was they would be perfectly centered on top of each other. It seemed to work fine. I first cut both pieces with a little overhang on the box. Then positioned them on the box itself, tacked it down with a couple of small screws and used a flush trim bit on the router to match them up exactly to the box. Removed baffle from the box and then routed down the outer baffle and then cut out the inner baffle. worked like a charm! I used this to route the circles:
I bought it a Sears - http://www.sears.com/milescraft-router-guide-kit-1223/p-00928832000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
And here is the resulting cutouts:
After that, just simply clamped and glued to the rest of the box. I have a pnuematic nail gun set, so I used only a few brad nails here and there to secure during the clamping phase:
Flush Trim Bit is your friend
Used a little common spackle to touch up a couple of nail holes here and there and here they are ready for the finish
Here's where we get to the fun part. Duratex ROCKS. I highly recommend it. This was my first time using this stuff and it makes me want to paint half my house with it lol. I've seen a lot of people in various posts ask about rough vs smooth finishes and how to get them with this stuff. I wanted a smoother finish with a little bit of texture, not a lot. I started off using a foam roller I bought from home depot designed for smooth finishes. This was actually in my opinion a litte harder to deal with. VERY tough to keep from getting lines while painting. I did the first coat with this and just let it dry and wasn't all that impressed. I then decided to try the texture brush I ordered in the parts list above. I didn't use it to begin with because I thought a "texture" roller would add a lot of texture that I didn't want. Not true at all... It depends on how you use it. To get the finish picuted below I gooped it on the roll pretty heavy and just kept rolling it out with the 4 inch roller. When you first roll it out it will have a heavier texture and some "air bubble" like anomolies. Just keep rolling it out until the surface is smoother, without letting it get to dry. then just use very light pressure skim across the top. I'm very happy with the way it turned out:
I stuffed each one with about 3lbs of fiberfil.
Ready for Drivers! I saw a post on another thread (sry cant remember where) where the guy took cable ties and put them through the screw holes in the driver carraige to position the driver. Excellent little tip, it helps to lower it into place. I ended up using Spax # 10 1.5 inch screws to mount. I drilled small pilot holes and then just screwed them in. They gripped beautifully and went in without a problem. My initial thought, and I still might, was to paint them black with a little touch up paint after they went in but I have to say I kind of like the silver look of them against the black of everything else. It kind of gives them an industrial bad ass look.
Here are the finished product shots!!
They will eventually be going behind the screenwall here. Carpet should hopefully be installed in a few weeks and they will go to their new home!
A HUGE thanks to everyone on these forums. No way I would have ever even considered doing this without the knowledge base around here. I would say for anyone that is new to DIY speakers you may want to consider the flat packs from DIY Sound Group http://www.diysoundgroup.com/flat-packs-1/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/4-sub-flat-pack.html
. I would have but I didn't have the depth behind the screenwall to accomidate them. I would say these would make the project even easier and a complete no brainer for those considering buying off the shelf.
Thanks to all,