Dual Dayton RSS460HO-4 Build and questions - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 37 Old 03-06-2013, 08:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright my drivers came in today, so I am ready to start building the boxes. I am using 3/4" MDF and am planning on building the boxes to be 20x20x23. To start with I will be powering 1 sub with a LT.1300 but we are fixing to order an EP4000 to power both subs. I do have a few MORE questions though.

1.)What do you think about this box size?
2.)Do I need poly fill?
3.)What are the advantages of Duratex over regular paint?




Thank you everyone for your help.
Especially thank you to those of you that have helped me get to this point!!!!!!!
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post #2 of 37 Old 03-06-2013, 08:50 PM
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Alright my drivers came in today, so I am ready to start building the boxes. I am using 3/4" MDF and am planning on building the boxes to be 20x20x23. To start with I will be powering 1 sub with a LT.1300 but we are fixing to order an EP4000 to power both subs. I do have a few MORE questions though.
Quote:
1.)What do you think about this box size?

That's about spot on for the right size. A lot depends on how much power you plan to apply. If you think you will want to push a little more down the road, I'd decrease the size to around 3.5cf; if sticking with 500 watts or so that's perfect.
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2.)Do I need poly fill?

No. Should you use it, probably. Up to 1lb per cubic ft will trick the driver into performing like it's in a larger enclosure, which is a good thing. It will also help with resonance to a small degree.
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3.)What are the advantages of Duratex over regular paint?

Nothing really. A lot like the wrinkle finish and it's tough as nails. There are many finishes to choose from so pick your poison.

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post #3 of 37 Old 03-07-2013, 09:41 AM
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Using dual drivers that big (18")... I would use minimum one inch MDF, probably thicker... And with a lot of bracing. My guess the 0.75" MDF will not be stiff enough to eliminate resonances, expecially since 18" drivers can really pressurize a cabinet. I am currently building a single 12" RSS315HF-4 in a 18" cube. The speaker baffle will be 1.5" and the rest will be 1" thick. Unfortunately, no one sells 1" MDF here in Hawaii so I have to laminate 0.25" and 0.75" MDF together to make the 1" panels. Not fun.

I am finishing my sub in cherry veneer. Staining it with a blend of dark cherry and cabernet. Then spraying it with either a gloss poly or lacquer. Saw someone do it on a speaker on the Polk forum and it really, really looked nice.

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post #4 of 37 Old 03-07-2013, 01:48 PM
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Using dual drivers that big (18")... I would use minimum one inch MDF, probably thicker... And with a lot of bracing. My guess the 0.75" MDF will not be stiff enough to eliminate resonances, expecially since 18" drivers can really pressurize a cabinet.

1" is certainly not required. You will be fine with .75" thick MDF, or 11 layer ply, for all but the front. Bracing is recommended no matter how thick the material so you really aren't gaining anything with 1". In fact, intelligently placed bracing will do more for stiffening than the material itself. For the front I would definitely go with a double baffle of two .75" pieces.

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post #5 of 37 Old 03-07-2013, 01:51 PM - Thread Starter
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That's about spot on for the right size. A lot depends on how much power you plan to apply. If you think you will want to push a little more down the road, I'd decrease the size to around 3.5cf; if sticking with 500 watts or so that's perfect. .


Since I will be adding more power down the road, what do you think about each box being 20x20x21. That puts the volume around 3.8cf before the driver and bracing.
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post #6 of 37 Old 03-07-2013, 01:53 PM - Thread Starter
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1" is certainly not required. You will be fine with .75" thick MDF, or 11 layer ply, for all but the front. Bracing is recommended no matter how thick the material so you really aren't gaining anything with 1". In fact, intelligently placed bracing will do more for stiffening than the material itself. For the front I would definitely go with a double baffle of two .75" pieces.

I thought the .75 would be fine as long as I brace it good and I am planning on the double baffle up front.
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post #7 of 37 Old 03-07-2013, 01:54 PM
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Since I will be adding more power down the road, what do you think about each box being 20x20x21. That puts the volume around 3.8cf before the driver and bracing.

+1 on the construction, 3/4 well braced with double baffle is perfect.

On size, I am runing two of these right now in my temp room, each one in it's own 21x21x21 enclosure with 1250w per driver. It's percect! Nary a bad sound or struggle from anything...they just pound cleanly along. FWIW, my cabs are 11 ply birch, double baffle and good bracing...tested and approved.
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post #8 of 37 Old 03-07-2013, 01:58 PM
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.tested and approved.

There you have it. You can't get a better recommendation than that. biggrin.gif


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post #9 of 37 Old 03-07-2013, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopShop1 View Post

+1 on the construction, 3/4 well braced with double baffle is perfect.

On size, I am runing two of these right now in my temp room, each one in it's own 21x21x21 enclosure with 1250w per driver. It's percect! Nary a bad sound or struggle from anything...they just pound cleanly along. FWIW, my cabs are 11 ply birch, double baffle and good bracing...tested and approved.

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There you have it. You can't get a better recommendation than that. biggrin.gif


Alright a 21"cube it is. Thanks for the help guys. I will start cutting wood in about an hour.
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post #10 of 37 Old 03-07-2013, 05:37 PM - Thread Starter
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All wood is cut.
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post #11 of 37 Old 03-07-2013, 06:53 PM - Thread Starter
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[

I only have 3 clamps so this is going to take a while.
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post #12 of 37 Old 03-07-2013, 07:45 PM
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No nail gun?

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post #13 of 37 Old 03-07-2013, 08:00 PM - Thread Starter
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No, I don't have a nail gun. My brother in-law has one that he usually lets me borrow but he is in the process of moving and we can't find it. So, I have to go the slow route.
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post #14 of 37 Old 03-07-2013, 08:18 PM
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That just adds to the suspense. smile.gif

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post #15 of 37 Old 03-07-2013, 09:26 PM - Thread Starter
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That just adds to the suspense. smile.gif

I now, but I am tired of the suspense!!!
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post #16 of 37 Old 03-07-2013, 10:00 PM
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can't you rent a brad nailer from home depot for $5? i mean if you really want to get done quickly. :-)

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post #17 of 37 Old 03-08-2013, 12:14 AM - Thread Starter
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can't you rent a brad nailer from home depot for $5? i mean if you really want to get done quickly. :-)

I don't know? I didn't know you could do that. Either way, I will probably whine about how long it is taking but just keep glueing away. I will have to remember that for next time though.

Thanks
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post #18 of 37 Old 03-08-2013, 01:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Does this bracing look alright?
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post #19 of 37 Old 03-08-2013, 04:25 AM
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Does this bracing look alright?

Should be fine...the main thing is that you don't want a span of more than 8" or so without bracing if you can help it. I tend to lean toward overkill and go with 6" or so where I can. obviously with drivers this size, there are some places you just can't do that. I would personally move the ones that are furthest apart in the pic to the inside of the four braces that are all really close together if you can and still have clearence for the magnet, etc. They look to have a 15" span or so between them in that side to side bracing. Instead of ripping those out and starting fresh, you could also try to jimmy a single brace going from sided to side, right across the middle of the enclosure like a center point to the four wide spread braces. Just me, it will probably work fine, but the overkill helps you sleep at night biggrin.gif
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post #20 of 37 Old 03-08-2013, 05:30 AM
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I would think you're getting mighty close to your baffle cut out with those inside 4 braces just by eyeballing it. Still have driver clearance?
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post #21 of 37 Old 03-08-2013, 05:58 AM
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^ Yep...and little is a bigger time and material waster than over-the-top bracing. But I suppose if you're into trying to kill things that are already dead and have nothing better to do with your time, money, and materials, go for it.

I've now built 3 different pairs of cabinets- with one cabinet "adequately" and one doubly braced within each pair- and have yet (nor 3-4 others) to hear (never mind measure) a difference in any of them...cabinet resonances included.

Decent materials, craftsmanship, and titebond go a long way.

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post #22 of 37 Old 03-08-2013, 06:58 AM
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I would think you're getting mighty close to your baffle cut out with those inside 4 braces just by eyeballing it. Still have driver clearance?

Hadn't even thought about the cab being small and that being an issue, great point...I was just looking at brace spacing:p Flipping all those braces on there sides would help that too.

James,

I hear ya, even if you were a bit blunt biggrin.gif I would say though, making sure you don't have more than an 8" span unbraced isn't overkill, it's ideal. Going beyond that, like I do is overkill, but a few 2" strips is hardly wasted material and takes about two minutes to cut and place, so not really much wasted. If anything, we are using material that would be wasted and giving it a function ( or at least a placebo effect of function:D )
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post #23 of 37 Old 03-18-2013, 09:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I did have to move a couple of the braces, but I finally had time to work on these again today. Almost ready to start painting.[IMG]

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post #24 of 37 Old 03-18-2013, 11:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I got to test drive 1 tonight and it walks all over my old A7-350. I can't wait to get the other one done and get an amp for it. Considering the Dayton is a budget driver, it is pretty impressive. This is my first attempt at DIY and considering the performance for the dollars I will never buy another pre made speaker again. This has made my night. Thank you everyone for your help.

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post #25 of 37 Old 03-19-2013, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ozziedog View Post

Well I got to test drive 1 tonight and it walks all over my old A7-350. I can't wait to get the other one done and get an amp for it. Considering the Dayton is a budget driver, it is pretty impressive. This is my first attempt at DIY and considering the performance for the dollars I will never buy another pre made speaker again. This has made my night. Thank you everyone for your help.


Wait - you are using your sub boxes before finishing them........for some that means 1 day becomes 1 week becomes 1 month....and on...
I'm resisting using my in process boxes till all finished....

I see a little girl in the foreground, how does she like them?
My 3 kids think I've gone overboard at times with this hobby...
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post #26 of 37 Old 03-19-2013, 10:42 AM
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Great to hear you are enjoying it....wait until you get two up and running with full power smile.gif
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post #27 of 37 Old 03-19-2013, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Wait - you are using your sub boxes before finishing them........for some that means 1 day becomes 1 week becomes 1 month....and on...
I'm resisting using my in process boxes till all finished....

I see a little girl in the foreground, how does she like them?
My 3 kids think I've gone overboard at times with this hobby...

I had to force myself to take the driver back out and work on the finish today.

Both my kids love it. My daughter loves dancing and singing to the music and my son thinks it cool when the house shakes.
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post #28 of 37 Old 03-19-2013, 11:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Great to hear you are enjoying it....wait until you get two up and running with full power smile.gif

I should have the other one done in the next couple of days. I am on vacation so I actually have plenty of time to work on them right now. I just got to find an amp for a decent price. I was thinking an ep2000 bridged should be good for the other one.
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post #29 of 37 Old 03-19-2013, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Done painting one, just have to make the grill.
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post #30 of 37 Old 04-22-2013, 09:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, I am finally finishing up my second sub. I have purchased an inuke6000 and a balanced mini dsp but I am still confused as on how to hook up the mini dsp. I think I understand it all except how to wire from my avr (RX-a2000) to the mini dsp. Can anyone please help make this clearer for me?

Thanks
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