Dayton Audio 15" Ultimax Build - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 76 Old 03-27-2013, 03:53 PM
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Does the roller do a better job then using spray paint?
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post #32 of 76 Old 03-27-2013, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dphinsx2 View Post

Does the roller do a better job then using spray paint?

A roller is always going to leave a texture, no matter how good you are with it. With proper surface prep and, and pray technique you can get very good results with spray paint

Spray painting my NS6/DQ25 surrounds satin nickel

I really do need to invest in a compressor/HVLP setup though rolleyes.gif
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post #33 of 76 Old 03-28-2013, 05:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dphinsx2 View Post

Does the roller do a better job then using spray paint?

As stated aobve. If you properly sand and prep the surface, and spray carefully evenly and do a few coats spray paint can look quite nice and sometimes even better. The 3 coats of primer I did was with a spray can, and aside from being extremely dull it went on very smooth, If it were not for a few spots that I knew would get covered up with paint I was debating leaving it just primered. Just requires a bit more patience and being careful.

A roller can lay the paint on a bit thicker and cover up some small mistakes, but if you want it to be smooth will require lots of sanding in between coats, and a good final sand using fine sand paper towards the end.

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post #34 of 76 Old 03-28-2013, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Shady195 View Post

As stated aobve. If you properly sand and prep the surface, and spray carefully evenly and do a few coats spray paint can look quite nice and sometimes even better. The 3 coats of primer I did was with a spray can, and aside from being extremely dull it went on very smooth, If it were not for a few spots that I knew would get covered up with paint I was debating leaving it just primered. Just requires a bit more patience and being careful.

A roller can lay the paint on a bit thicker and cover up some small mistakes, but if you want it to be smooth will require lots of sanding in between coats, and a good final sand using fine sand paper towards the end.

Do you recommend sanding between just the primer coats? Or if a person desired a nicer, smooth finish should it be sanded in between coats of the regular finish? If so, what grit do you recommend and how many times should it be sanded in between coats, or how many coats should go on?

The bigger question is how do these UM15's sound? I ordered a few of them just a couple of days ago. Can't wait to get mine!
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post #35 of 76 Old 03-28-2013, 05:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Do you recommend sanding between just the primer coats? Or if a person desired a nicer, smooth finish should it be sanded in between coats of the regular finish? If so, what grit do you recommend and how many times should it be sanded in between coats, or how many coats should go on?

The bigger question is how do these UM15's sound? I ordered a few of them just a couple of days ago. Can't wait to get mine!

I did not sand in between primer coats, it went on smooth enough for me I did not see the need too. After the final primer coat dried I sanded down with 150 grit and did the first coat of paint. Sanded that down with 220 grit, this next coat im going to sand down with 320, and the final coat Ill sand down with 400, and maybe go up higher if I feel it needs it for the finish I want.

And im as anxious as you to figure out how it sounds.. I have never waited this long to buy everything I need to get something done, im tellin gmyself is a lesson in patience and being better with my money tongue.gif

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post #36 of 76 Old 03-29-2013, 11:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Got the sub put together today..

Paint came out pretty good, not completely smooth but it looks great!

Dont have the amp yet but I stole the center channel off of my rotel amp (only ~200wats going to the sub) and even with that little bit of power and no DSP it sounds leaps and bounds better than the klipsch, doesnt sound as muddy, response seems tighter.. listened to a few songs with heavy bass and it just sounded much better. Can't wait to get the NU1000 and boost the 20hz range for movies..

Popped in cloverfield and watch some of that as well as total recall and could tell it was hitting much lower frequencies than the klipsch was.. there was a few times where **** was rattling in my house but I could not hear anything..

Crappy cell phone pic.


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post #37 of 76 Old 03-29-2013, 06:51 PM
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Looks real good. I am thinking of the same setup. What do you think of the box size in relation to the way it sounds?
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post #38 of 76 Old 03-29-2013, 06:54 PM
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looks nice, the ultimax is a very interesting looking driver
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post #39 of 76 Old 03-29-2013, 07:18 PM
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Sounds great. I just got my wood cut for my build. Clamps weren't available for some reason though which sucks so I couldn't start assembly.
When do you get your amp, very interested in hearing your impressions when you can drive it to its full potential. Great to hear it does well with 200 watts though, I'm so excited just to have the preliminary cuts done and so upset I can't start gluing due to lack of clamps.
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post #40 of 76 Old 03-29-2013, 07:31 PM
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Nice! Now hook up a proper amp, add a shelf filter and enjoy. smile.gif

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post #41 of 76 Old 03-29-2013, 09:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tential View Post

Sounds great. I just got my wood cut for my build. Clamps weren't available for some reason though which sucks so I couldn't start assembly.
When do you get your amp, very interested in hearing your impressions when you can drive it to its full potential. Great to hear it does well with 200 watts though, I'm so excited just to have the preliminary cuts done and so upset I can't start gluing due to lack of clamps.

Should have the AMP here sometime next week smile.gif

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post #42 of 76 Old 03-29-2013, 09:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 04rex View Post

Looks real good. I am thinking of the same setup. What do you think of the box size in relation to the way it sounds?

It sounds great, the biggest thing that sucked about the RW-12D is when it was working hard it made a lot of port noise, it was pretty cool to watch a few scenes in cloverfield watching the driver move like crazy and just hearing bass, no nasty port noise..

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post #43 of 76 Old 03-29-2013, 10:55 PM
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Should have the AMP here sometime next week smile.gif
It's so frustrating not having it built I really want to hear this. I'm hoping to be done by Thursday.
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post #44 of 76 Old 04-04-2013, 08:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Should be taking Delivery of my NU1000DSP tommorow smile.gif Can't wait to hook it up and see what a little tweaking with the DSP can do cool.gif

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post #45 of 76 Old 04-05-2013, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Shady195 View Post

It sounds great, the biggest thing that sucked about the RW-12D is when it was working hard it made a lot of port noise, it was pretty cool to watch a few scenes in cloverfield watching the driver move like crazy and just hearing bass, no nasty port noise..

Man, that's a nice looking 15" driver!

How is the motor noise on this sub? When you had the driver moving like crazy, did you hear any noise from the driver itself?

Dan
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post #46 of 76 Old 04-05-2013, 09:41 AM
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I like this DIY sub.

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post #47 of 76 Old 04-05-2013, 10:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

Man, that's a nice looking 15" driver!

How is the motor noise on this sub? When you had the driver moving like crazy, did you hear any noise from the driver itself?

Dan

Dan, under normal viewing scenarios even with this 200W thats being pushed to it until tonight when I get my NU1000DSP hooked up it makes no noise at all. Watching cloverfield for example (which has amazing LFE by the way) at -10DB (any louder and I think my ear drums would pop) and it never sounded like anything other than sweet sweet bass. I tend to run my sub a bit on the hot side too.

The only "distorted" noise I got so far was when I had the driver completely cranked on my rotel, the volume on my receiver at like -15 and I played a 10-100hz test tone, when the 10hz tone kicked in it made kind of like a flappy rubber noise, maybe it was clipping? and I bottomed it out playing the Song Vertigo from Yanni's Live at el morro CD. This was before I re-ran audyssey though and It was corrected for my RW-12D, it was the inital test just to make sure I had it hooked up right and nothing was gonna blow tongue.gif

Realisticly though, Ive pushed this driver harder than it should be just to see what it would do. Aside from the intial bottom out when it was setup for the RW-12D I had hooked up previously.. Ive pushed this driver quite hard just to see what it could do and it hasnt bottomed out once, and aside from that noise with a test tone sweep, I have not heard it in any real world listening situations with music or movies.



Quote:
Originally Posted by GusGus748s View Post

I like this sub idea. I've got a few questions, 1- what amp plate did you use or is recommended? 2- can I buy a premade box? Or do I have to make my own?

I was originally going to run the Dayton 1000W Plate Amp, but I did not for two reasons. 1 I did not want to cut into the box haha and two I thought maybe it would eat up some of that internal volume.. Plus I like the DSP on the NU1000

You can buy a pre-made flat pack from DIYSoundgroup.com which is where i got mine smile.gif

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post #48 of 76 Old 04-05-2013, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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I had Opus Dei Bass test playing the other night.. its amazing how much this driver movies tongue.gif

While it not that "loud" this sub will do under 20hz.. and its quite entertaining to see the driver moviing, not really any noise.. just things rattling off the shelves in my house biggrin.gif

Im excited to see how much the DSP will improve those frequncies under <30hz

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post #49 of 76 Old 04-05-2013, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Shady195 View Post

Dan, under normal viewing scenarios even with this 200W thats being pushed to it until tonight when I get my NU1000DSP hooked up it makes no noise at all. Watching cloverfield for example (which has amazing LFE by the way) at -10DB (any louder and I think my ear drums would pop) and it never sounded like anything other than sweet sweet bass. I tend to run my sub a bit on the hot side too.

The only "distorted" noise I got so far was when I had the driver completely cranked on my rotel, the volume on my receiver at like -15 and I played a 10-100hz test tone, when the 10hz tone kicked in it made kind of like a flappy rubber noise, maybe it was clipping? and I bottomed it out playing the Song Vertigo from Yanni's Live at el morro CD. This was before I re-ran audyssey though and It was corrected for my RW-12D, it was the inital test just to make sure I had it hooked up right and nothing was gonna blow tongue.gif

Realisticly though, Ive pushed this driver harder than it should be just to see what it would do. Aside from the intial bottom out when it was setup for the RW-12D I had hooked up previously.. Ive pushed this driver quite hard just to see what it could do and it hasnt bottomed out once, and aside from that noise with a test tone sweep, I have not heard it in any real world listening situations with music or movies.

Awesome, thanks for the reply. I think you may have tipped the scales in favor of this sub over the Dayton 390HF 15". I'm deciding between the two. The 390HF can use a little smaller box and get the same Qts, but not much. The UM has more outpout potential though with the huge Xmax.

Dan
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post #50 of 76 Old 04-05-2013, 01:33 PM - Thread Starter
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No problem Dan smile.gif

Got the NU1000 and got it all hooked up. No time to adjust till later tonight but my sub makes boom boom so thats good wink.gif

Though I'm going to have to overcome a couple of issues with the NU1000DSP. I looked at the diemension beforehand to make sure it would fit in my media cabinet under the TV, which it does until you get to the rack ears. At the moment its on top of the sub which presents two problems:

1. The fan is noisy, will be getting a replacement fan for the time being
2. Lights are super bright, and my glass is frosted so should help with the distraction

I'm thinking of sawing the rack ears off... It looks like their integrated in the chassis and can't be removed.

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post #51 of 76 Old 04-06-2013, 05:55 AM
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Have you had the opportunity to hook up the iNuke and compare that with the Rotel amp? Also, what are you going to do about the iNukes roll off at 20hz? Don't you want your sub to go down below that, with some authoritative output?
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post #52 of 76 Old 04-06-2013, 07:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Have you had the opportunity to hook up the iNuke and compare that with the Rotel amp? Also, what are you going to do about the iNukes roll off at 20hz? Don't you want your sub to go down below that, with some authoritative output?

I have it hooked up but havent really had a chance to set it up properly and start tweaking.. Had a bad case of the spins yesterday and went home early from work which is when I got it hooked up. By the time the house had calmed down for me to setup the mic and start doing some tests and tweaking I was so spent I went up stairs and passed out around 8PM.

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post #53 of 76 Old 04-07-2013, 05:19 PM
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Shady, what's your impression of this as a musical sub while not taking movies into consideration? I really want to build a sub for music and have been leaning towards the Dayton HF series.
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post #54 of 76 Old 04-08-2013, 04:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Shady, what's your impression of this as a musical sub while not taking movies into consideration? I really want to build a sub for music and have been leaning towards the Dayton HF series.

In general when I was into car audio, I personally liked smaller subs to get a bit better quality/response for music. While I can't give set in stone impression because the sub is hardly set correctly right now, I can tell you its actually a much quicker sub to my ears than I would have thought, especially compared to the 12D. Notes don't seem to crash into eachother in the low end, not sure if that makes sense. Always felt like with my RW12 when I listened to music that as the sub was hitting notes the kind of hit eachother and blended into one, it wasnt fast enough to really make each one sound distinguishable.

I will let you know more when I get it dialed , still have not gotten a chance to do so..

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post #55 of 76 Old 04-08-2013, 07:22 AM
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I think "fast" is kind of a misnomer with big (or small) subs. A sub that doesn't sound "tight" could be underdamped, or you could be hearing a lot of cabin or room resonances that make it sound that way. In theory, an 18" sub will be just as "fast" as an 8" sub, possibly more so. Data-bass has some good stuff on this topic here:

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=knowhow&type=1
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post #56 of 76 Old 04-08-2013, 08:14 AM
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I think "fast" is kind of a misnomer with big (or small) subs. A sub that doesn't sound "tight" could be underdamped, or you could be hearing a lot of cabin or room resonances that make it sound that way. In theory, an 18" sub will be just as "fast" as an 8" sub, possibly more so. Data-bass has some good stuff on this topic here:

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=knowhow&type=1
+1. There are a few ways to accurately describe subwoofer response, but 'fast' isn't one of them, nor does driver size in and of itself define anything. There is no difference between a sub suitable for music versus HT, other than with music only use you may not need to go as low as with HT. If a sub sounds good it will sound good with any content. The same applies if it sounds bad.
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post #57 of 76 Old 04-08-2013, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shady195 View Post

In general when I was into car audio, I personally liked smaller subs to get a bit better quality/response for music. While I can't give set in stone impression because the sub is hardly set correctly right now, I can tell you its actually a much quicker sub to my ears than I would have thought, especially compared to the 12D. Notes don't seem to crash into eachother in the low end, not sure if that makes sense. Always felt like with my RW12 when I listened to music that as the sub was hitting notes the kind of hit eachother and blended into one, it wasnt fast enough to really make each one sound distinguishable.

I will let you know more when I get it dialed , still have not gotten a chance to do so..

I've had to show many friends of mine that a properly modeled box and a good quality 18" sub will sound just as "quick" and "tight" as a 12" one. They couldn't understand why my 15" Dayton HF in my car, or my 18" SI HT subs sound just as "quick". They were all running poorly designed, leaking boxes, and they didn't even know what they were tuned to.

I was that way myself not too long ago, but places like this forum help tremendous in gaining understanding.

Based on what my HF does, you'll be very pleased at the quality and output of the Ultimax. If you have the power and space, they would work just as well in a car too.
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post #58 of 76 Old 04-08-2013, 10:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djkest View Post

I think "fast" is kind of a misnomer with big (or small) subs. A sub that doesn't sound "tight" could be underdamped, or you could be hearing a lot of cabin or room resonances that make it sound that way. In theory, an 18" sub will be just as "fast" as an 8" sub, possibly more so. Data-bass has some good stuff on this topic here:

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=knowhow&type=1

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Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

+1. There are a few ways to accurately describe subwoofer response, but 'fast' isn't one of them, nor does driver size in and of itself define anything. There is no difference between a sub suitable for music versus HT, other than with music only use you may not need to go as low as with HT. If a sub sounds good it will sound good with any content. The same applies if it sounds bad.

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I've had to show many friends of mine that a properly modeled box and a good quality 18" sub will sound just as "quick" and "tight" as a 12" one. They couldn't understand why my 15" Dayton HF in my car, or my 18" SI HT subs sound just as "quick". They were all running poorly designed, leaking boxes, and they didn't even know what they were tuned to.

I was that way myself not too long ago, but places like this forum help tremendous in gaining understanding.

Based on what my HF does, you'll be very pleased at the quality and output of the Ultimax. If you have the power and space, they would work just as well in a car too.


Good to know, just for me its always been a trend with people subs ive heard that the smaller ones always seemed to just sound better. Always assumed like many thing that larger mass = slower moving, though it would make sense with a enough power behind it that it can be just as tight as something smaller.

Learn something new every day on this forum biggrin.gif

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post #59 of 76 Old 04-09-2013, 09:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Im praying tonight seeing as its nice out I can kick the wife and the dogs out on the back deck to have some quiet so I can get some rew measurements of the sub and start to adjust manually. Somewhat afraid of how bad audyssey may muck up manual adjustments I think im going to run audyssey and than manually EQ the rest of the sub the best I can with the NU1000's DSP interface.

I know no matter what there is going to be dips and drops, my room appears to be an acoustical nightmare. I had oringally just off the rip boosted the 20hz range, and there must be a few frequencie spikes with the sub somewhere as theres a times certain explosions etc pretty much wreak havoc on my house while others sound nice..

EMP E55ti | EMP E56ci | Polk T15's for surround duty | Ultimax 15" Sub | Integra 40.2 | Rotel 976 | Panasonic 60ST60
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post #60 of 76 Old 04-09-2013, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shady195 View Post

Im praying tonight seeing as its nice out I can kick the wife and the dogs out on the back deck to have some quiet so I can get some rew measurements of the sub and start to adjust manually. Somewhat afraid of how bad audyssey may muck up manual adjustments I think im going to run audyssey and than manually EQ the rest of the sub the best I can with the NU1000's DSP interface.

I know no matter what there is going to be dips and drops, my room appears to be an acoustical nightmare. I had oringally just off the rip boosted the 20hz range, and there must be a few frequencie spikes with the sub somewhere as theres a times certain explosions etc pretty much wreak havoc on my house while others sound nice..

Are you running it in bridge mode? Curious as to how much power you're feeding it. Just placed the order for my Ultimax now. My boy is going to the CNC at my school to make my last 2 cuts, by the time Parts Express delivers it it should be ready.

Do you have feet on your sub?
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