Best fastener to use when mounting sub drivers to MDF? - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 63 Old 10-30-2015, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by mjaudio View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by bhazard

I used #6 1.5 inch threaded drywall screws as well for my SIs.


Did you use washers? If not then you might want to double check if the screws are holding well since the SI 18's mounting holes are bigger than normal. I used these with the first pair of SI 18's but had to use washers as I could pull the screw heads through a few of the openings: http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...ox-wax-finish/
I also have some TC Sounds mounting screws as well and they can go through the mounting holes as well. I just grabbed a few drywall screws and the heads on those will go through the mounting holes on the other 2 SI 18's I have that are just sitting around waiting for an enclosure.

I know check all the subs mounting holes when I first get them to make sure I use the proper screws. It happened to me when I first got a Maelstrom X 18" sub and mounted it with the TC Sounds screws. It was playing fine behind the couch I was sitting on when all of a sudden I felt the driver hitting against the back of the couch. When I looked the bottom screws had gone right through the mounting holes and half the sub came off, only being held on by a couple of screws at the top.

The Dayton RS18's are fine with any screws, smaller mounting holes. The only 2 subs I have had that have larger than normal mounting holes are the Maelstrom-X 18" and 21" and the SI 18".
I know this thread is a bit old, but I just had to laugh, as I just got around to finally building my first SI HT18D4 with Flatpack that I have had for over 2 years. Anyway, I used wood screws, and did not check the SI's mounting holes, as I really could not see them through the rubber surround. Anyway, I hooked the sub up to a spare plate amp just to see if it worked. It was working fine, and then all of a sudden, poof - the subwoofer separated from the enclosure. Anyway, it was easy enough removing all the screws - but it was pretty damn funny.


Now I got to decide if I want to wire it differently. Looks like I am going to power this one and a 2d with a Behringer EP2500 ($165) or EP4000 ($200) (both used). It's currently wired to give an 8ohm load. Should I reconfigure to give a 2 ohm load?

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post #62 of 63 Old 11-01-2015, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by auge.dog View Post
I know this thread is a bit old, but I just had to laugh, as I just got around to finally building my first SI HT18D4 with Flatpack that I have had for over 2 years. Anyway, I used wood screws, and did not check the SI's mounting holes, as I really could not see them through the rubber surround. Anyway, I hooked the sub up to a spare plate amp just to see if it worked. It was working fine, and then all of a sudden, poof - the subwoofer separated from the enclosure. Anyway, it was easy enough removing all the screws - but it was pretty damn funny.


Now I got to decide if I want to wire it differently. Looks like I am going to power this one and a 2d with a Behringer EP2500 ($165) or EP4000 ($200) (both used). It's currently wired to give an 8ohm load. Should I reconfigure to give a 2 ohm load?
Yeah, I did have a laugh at my hanging sub too.

You can wire for 2 ohm but only use a single channel, don't run it bridged as that would be too low. I generally try and avoid running too low but with the right amp then 2 ohms is fine, 4 ohms is more ideal.
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post #63 of 63 Old 11-02-2015, 08:21 AM
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Yeah, I did have a laugh at my hanging sub too.

You can wire for 2 ohm but only use a single channel, don't run it bridged as that would be too low. I generally try and avoid running too low but with the right amp then 2 ohms is fine, 4 ohms is more ideal.
Thanks, mjaudio. I did wire for 2ohm load, and used some washer headed screws which seemed to work pretty well. Much bigger than the openings.

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