Best fastener to use when mounting sub drivers to MDF? - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 72 Old 10-30-2015, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjaudio View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by bhazard

I used #6 1.5 inch threaded drywall screws as well for my SIs.


Did you use washers? If not then you might want to double check if the screws are holding well since the SI 18's mounting holes are bigger than normal. I used these with the first pair of SI 18's but had to use washers as I could pull the screw heads through a few of the openings: http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...ox-wax-finish/
I also have some TC Sounds mounting screws as well and they can go through the mounting holes as well. I just grabbed a few drywall screws and the heads on those will go through the mounting holes on the other 2 SI 18's I have that are just sitting around waiting for an enclosure.

I know check all the subs mounting holes when I first get them to make sure I use the proper screws. It happened to me when I first got a Maelstrom X 18" sub and mounted it with the TC Sounds screws. It was playing fine behind the couch I was sitting on when all of a sudden I felt the driver hitting against the back of the couch. When I looked the bottom screws had gone right through the mounting holes and half the sub came off, only being held on by a couple of screws at the top.

The Dayton RS18's are fine with any screws, smaller mounting holes. The only 2 subs I have had that have larger than normal mounting holes are the Maelstrom-X 18" and 21" and the SI 18".
I know this thread is a bit old, but I just had to laugh, as I just got around to finally building my first SI HT18D4 with Flatpack that I have had for over 2 years. Anyway, I used wood screws, and did not check the SI's mounting holes, as I really could not see them through the rubber surround. Anyway, I hooked the sub up to a spare plate amp just to see if it worked. It was working fine, and then all of a sudden, poof - the subwoofer separated from the enclosure. Anyway, it was easy enough removing all the screws - but it was pretty damn funny.


Now I got to decide if I want to wire it differently. Looks like I am going to power this one and a 2d with a Behringer EP2500 ($165) or EP4000 ($200) (both used). It's currently wired to give an 8ohm load. Should I reconfigure to give a 2 ohm load?

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post #62 of 72 Old 11-01-2015, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auge.dog View Post
I know this thread is a bit old, but I just had to laugh, as I just got around to finally building my first SI HT18D4 with Flatpack that I have had for over 2 years. Anyway, I used wood screws, and did not check the SI's mounting holes, as I really could not see them through the rubber surround. Anyway, I hooked the sub up to a spare plate amp just to see if it worked. It was working fine, and then all of a sudden, poof - the subwoofer separated from the enclosure. Anyway, it was easy enough removing all the screws - but it was pretty damn funny.


Now I got to decide if I want to wire it differently. Looks like I am going to power this one and a 2d with a Behringer EP2500 ($165) or EP4000 ($200) (both used). It's currently wired to give an 8ohm load. Should I reconfigure to give a 2 ohm load?
Yeah, I did have a laugh at my hanging sub too.

You can wire for 2 ohm but only use a single channel, don't run it bridged as that would be too low. I generally try and avoid running too low but with the right amp then 2 ohms is fine, 4 ohms is more ideal.
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post #63 of 72 Old 11-02-2015, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjaudio View Post
Yeah, I did have a laugh at my hanging sub too.

You can wire for 2 ohm but only use a single channel, don't run it bridged as that would be too low. I generally try and avoid running too low but with the right amp then 2 ohms is fine, 4 ohms is more ideal.
Thanks, mjaudio. I did wire for 2ohm load, and used some washer headed screws which seemed to work pretty well. Much bigger than the openings.

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post #64 of 72 Unread Yesterday, 08:05 AM
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I'm resurrecting an old thread. I'm just about to the point of attaching the driver to my Marty Cube and want to make sure it's secure.

Has anyone tried using either of these options?

Screws from Wall Dog (see pic). These look like they have a lot more "bite" in them than the average drywall-type screw.

Screw and barrel (pic attached)


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post #65 of 72 Unread Yesterday, 08:33 AM
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Those screws look pretty good. I'd test them out first though and see how much over torquing it takes to strip them in MDF.

The screw and barrel... That barrel will just spin in the MDF. With no bite, I wouldn't trust that even with glue of some sort. If it breaks loose, you won't be able to get it tight, and you won't be able to get it out. That would be bad news.

There are other threaded inserts in this thread that will do a better job.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fazzz View Post
I'm resurrecting an old thread. I'm just about to the point of attaching the driver to my Marty Cube and want to make sure it's secure.

Has anyone tried using either of these options?

Screws from Wall Dog (see pic). These look like they have a lot more "bite" in them than the average drywall-type screw.

Screw and barrel (pic attached)
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post #66 of 72 Unread Yesterday, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blah450 View Post


I've been using these after blah450's recommendation (thank you blah) and I can't seem to find mention of one of the best things about these screws: they are square drive! I love the durability of square drive over phillips.

Also, as a warning, they're not precisely black. They have this slight orangish tint, but I find it barely noticeable.

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post #67 of 72 Unread Yesterday, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasser View Post
I've been using these after blah450's recommendation (thank you blah) and I can't seem to find mention of one of the best things about these screws: they are square drive! I love the durability of square drive over phillips.

Also, as a warning, they're not precisely black. They have this slight orangish tint, but I find it barely noticeable.

Where did you find the screw's that Blah recommended? I tried looking for those at HD, but couldn't find them. Are they any different from the Kreg screws?
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post #68 of 72 Unread Yesterday, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fazzz View Post
Where did you find the screw's that Blah recommended? I tried looking for those at HD, but couldn't find them. Are they any different from the Kreg screws?
I got mine at Lowes. They're in the wood screw section.



That's a 1 1/4" Kreg next to the 1 1/2" Hillman, but you can see they're nearly identical except for the color.
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post #69 of 72 Unread Yesterday, 04:20 PM
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dgage has slab bolts and fasteners that are the bomb, guaranteed to never fail. similar to t nuts, but better and without the pita factor.
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post #70 of 72 Unread Yesterday, 06:03 PM
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0n a doubled ply baffle or ply or mdf backed with blocking of ply or, preferably a solid wood, say oak blocking,
pre drilled and pre-fit , and waxed but not bottomed out
#8 1 1/2" coarse drywall screws, washers optional depending on frame holes

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post #71 of 72 Unread Today, 04:36 AM
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Been using these .

Cheers
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DIY , Ikea Style
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post #72 of 72 Unread Today, 06:02 AM
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I don't like fasteners directly into MDF myself. Actually, let me correct that, I don't like them if they will have to come out and go back in. They are perfectly fine if you put them in and leave them, but with subs that is almost never the case. I would do some kind of T-nut, or insert as others have done/posted. Lucky for me I had access to some machinery at my old job, so before I left I made up some brackets.





They are held to the backside of the MDF with two #10 coarse thread screws, and are tapped for 10-32 (I also made up some 1/4-20 in case I get some big boy subs). I stole the design from someone on AVS (can never remember who), but mine are not nearly as nice. His are machined out of billet, mine are punched out of sheet stock. Also after I did mine I figured out that he tapped the center hole which makes MUCH more sense. They hold in place VERY strongly though. I actually had one sub installed with no screws holding the brackets to the MDF for months with no movement or loosening. I used some allen button head bolts to hold the subs in, but I should have used (or change out) to allen cap head instead. They would sit better in the ring of the sub.


Sean
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