Triple Gjallarhorn + Othorn Build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 165 Old 03-28-2013, 08:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Project:


Story:

Building two of Ricci's Gjallarhorns for myself to replace my DTS-10. I will be using the LMS Ultra 5400 driver (The UXL-18 is another option that I was planning on using originally) and powering with an FP14000 Clone.

With a friend we are also building him one Gjallarhorn with his LMS 5400 and going to try an Othorn.

Why???:

I don't know! It's fun!

3 x Gjallarhorn

References:

700
700


1 x Othorn

References:




Build:

3/27:

Purchased Wood

6 Sheets: 4x8 18mm Baltic Birch
8 Sheets: 5x5 18mm Baltic Birch
6 Sheets: 5x5 12mm Baltic Birch

Tools:

Cutting: Festool TS55 Track Saw - http://www.tracksaw.com/tracksaw/models/ts55req-tracksaw/ (Dust collection system is awesome!)
Joining: Kreg Kit - http://www.kregtool.com/Master-System-Prodview.html
Glue: PL Premium
Hoping my brain is up to par for all these angles.

Work Done:

1. Setup work area
2. Cut all side pieces
3. Measured / traced horn path on side panel for two of four subs.

3/28:


1. Finishing measuring / tracing horn paths on side panel.
2. Started cutting horn path pieces.
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post #2 of 165 Old 03-28-2013, 08:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Got some good cutting in today:

Wood Pile:

AppleMark

Half the side panels and top, bottom, and back pieces:

AppleMark

Festool Track Saw Guides: Have a 75in and a 55in guide + parallel guides to keep the width of all the pieces the same.



Saw + Saw Case + Dust collector:

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post #3 of 165 Old 03-29-2013, 04:28 AM
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Wow nice tools.
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post #4 of 165 Old 03-29-2013, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Wow nice tools.

I'm really like the saw. I've been able to get perfectly square and precise cuts with it so far on the big pieces. Will see how it does on the smaller ones.
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post #5 of 165 Old 03-29-2013, 06:44 AM
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are you intending to integrate the othorn with the gjallarhorn?
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post #6 of 165 Old 03-29-2013, 06:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by stormwind13 View Post

are you intending to integrate the othorn with the gjallarhorn?

Interesting thought, probably will end up trying it. Two of the Ghorns are going in the theatre. Thinking to try with one in the front of the room and one in the back.
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post #7 of 165 Old 03-29-2013, 08:21 AM
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You may be able to use the Othorn to offset what the GH lacks in the mid-upper bass. Getting the time offset might be tricky though with different horn lengths.
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post #8 of 165 Old 03-29-2013, 08:30 AM
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Nice build!!!!!!

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #9 of 165 Old 03-29-2013, 08:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by stormwind13 View Post

You may be able to use the Othorn to offset what the GH lacks in the mid-upper bass. Getting the time offset might be tricky though with different horn lengths.

The thing with the Ghorn is that with the output being as insane as it is (especially with two) it doesn't really "lack" anywhere. It's got headroom galore throughout pretty much the entire range.

From Ricci: "Translating to 1 meter peak output numbers results in output levels of 130-140dB from a single cabinet over the entire 20-100Hz range and greater than 127dB at 16Hz."

With two I'll be adding 6db to those numbers not including room gain. Double Ghorn, Double Power.

The Othorn idea is interesting though. Once I get these four done I have a feeling building an additional one at some point will feel very easy if I want to play around with Othorn configs.
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post #10 of 165 Old 03-29-2013, 05:00 PM
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Exactly, that will be sick!eek.gifcool.gif

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post #11 of 165 Old 03-29-2013, 05:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Made some good progress today. Cut most of the inside panels to width. Gotta figure out the angles / length without the dado's. Drilled the pocket holes in all the outside pieces and attached a few on the first one.

Drilling pocket holes:



Track Saw Setup: Cutting all the 22.53inch widths



Horn path outline: Finishing these up on all of them tomorrow



Three sides attached on #1

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post #12 of 165 Old 03-29-2013, 08:18 PM
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Great progress. That's a nice saw!
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post #13 of 165 Old 03-29-2013, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

Great progress. That's a nice saw!

When you were connecting the panels with the pocket screws. Which side would you do first? Connecting the panel to the side (A / B piece) or to the top / other horn pieces? Trying to best deal with the little pull you get the pocket screws.
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post #14 of 165 Old 03-29-2013, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsl1 View Post

When you were connecting the panels with the pocket screws. Which side would you do first? Connecting the panel to the side (A / B piece) or to the top / other horn pieces? Trying to best deal with the little pull you get the pocket screws.

I glued/screwed the 1/2" thick folds all together, and then glued/screwed that whole "piece" to the side panel.
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post #15 of 165 Old 03-29-2013, 08:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

I glued/screwed the 1/2" thick folds all together, and then glued/screwed that whole "piece" to the side panel.

Cool that makes sense.

For putting the B panel on what are you thinking? Just weight and clamps or are you going to put some screws through the B piece?
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post #16 of 165 Old 03-29-2013, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by dsl1 View Post

Cool that makes sense.

For putting the B panel on what are you thinking? Just weight and clamps or are you going to put some screws through the B piece?

All 3/4" pieces, like the outside panels and driver baffle, will get 2" coated deck screws. Obviously I'll be putting a very thick bead of PL premium everywhere, too.

I'll also put about 500lb's of weight on the whole thing overnight.
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post #17 of 165 Old 03-29-2013, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

All 3/4" pieces, like the outside panels and driver baffle, will get 2" coated deck screws. Obviously I'll be putting a very thick bead of PL premium everywhere, too.

I'll also put about 500lb's of weight on the whole thing overnight.

Yea I was thinking I could put pocket screws inside the mouth along the bottom and above the driver. Should be pretty easy to reach through the driver access panel. Then just clamp the rest like crazy and put weight on top with a fat pl premium bead. I'd prefer to not put any screws on the outside.
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post #18 of 165 Old 03-31-2013, 05:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Had a good day yesterday:

Horn path panels cut for all three Gjallarhorns. Have everything done except the driver panel:

AppleMark

Dom Gluing / Reference "Oh **** those are large compared to a person" picture:



Coming together!:



#2 getting started: Can see the Othorn side panels against the wall.



#3 will come together quickly.


Question:

For the bracing: Do you guys think I really need to put pocket holes in the bracing and screw + glue or just wedge them in tightly with a fat bead of PL and call it a day? Luke I know you pocket holed them and I did buy the 90 degree angle attachment.
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post #19 of 165 Old 03-31-2013, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsl1 View Post

Question:

For the bracing: Do you guys think I really need to put pocket holes in the bracing and screw + glue or just wedge them in tightly with a fat bead of PL and call it a day? Luke I know you pocket holed them and I did buy the 90 degree angle attachment.

For all the horn builds that I have done I have just put the PL onto the braces and held them in with brad nails to hold them until the PL dries. It is quick and easy and works great. Never had a loose panel!!
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post #20 of 165 Old 03-31-2013, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by tsloms View Post

For all the horn builds that I have done I have just put the PL onto the braces and held them in with brad nails to hold them until the PL dries. It is quick and easy and works great. Never had a loose panel!!

I do the same.

No need to make things complicated...

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post #21 of 165 Old 03-31-2013, 10:10 AM
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There is really no need for screws in the bracing. PL by itself is perfectly fine.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #22 of 165 Old 03-31-2013, 11:14 AM
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I'm sure you could get by without the screws just fine.

I noticed that the cabinet builder that made Ricci's cabinets used screws on his builds on all the bracing in the pictures, so I did as well. For me it's just more peace of mind that something won't pop loose down the road, and if that happens, it can't really be fixed.
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post #23 of 165 Old 03-31-2013, 05:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

I'm sure you could get by without the screws just fine.

I noticed that the cabinet builder that made Ricci's cabinets used screws on his builds on all the bracing in the pictures, so I did as well. For me it's just more peace of mind that something won't pop loose down the road, and if that happens, it can't really be fixed.

Seems if it's going to pop loose it will happen with or without the screws. I'll put them in though except for the few panels where it will be really really difficult.
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post #24 of 165 Old 03-31-2013, 05:38 PM
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Seems if it's going to pop loose it will happen with or without the screws. I'll put them in though except for the few panels where it will be really really difficult.

I didn't put them everywhere either. The first few folds are just too small.
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post #25 of 165 Old 03-31-2013, 07:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Horns everywhere!

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post #26 of 165 Old 03-31-2013, 07:49 PM
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Couple things:

Wow you are CRUISING!!! Make sure and not waste any time here, ok??? Lol

Umm I see way too many toys going on in that last pic

I forgot to mention the excellent workspace. I would kill for that much room to work. Actually, it would probably kill me instead. I would never leave the workshop outside of the 60 hour work weeks...Sleep is the cause of the death!

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post #27 of 165 Old 04-01-2013, 05:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Couple things:

Wow you are CRUISING!!! Make sure and not waste any time here, ok??? Lol

Umm I see way too many toys going on in that last pic

I forgot to mention the excellent workspace. I would kill for that much room to work. Actually, it would probably kill me instead. I would never leave the workshop outside of the 60 hour work weeks...Sleep is the cause of the death!

Sadly I won't have drivers for a while still frown.gif No clue when Mark will have the UXL-18's ready.

At least it will force me to finish the enclosures nicely.

Anyone want Midwest to buy my DTS-10?
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post #28 of 165 Old 04-01-2013, 07:41 AM
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Sadly I won't have drivers for a while still frown.gif No clue when Mark will have the UXL-18's ready.

At least it will force me to finish the enclosures nicely.

Ya, I never had any optimism when I hear about drivers that are going to ship any day.

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post #29 of 165 Old 04-01-2013, 07:42 AM
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Ya, I never had any optimism when I hear about drivers that are going to ship any day.

If I were building I would go with the dual 15 version and use a readily available off the shelf drivers.

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post #30 of 165 Old 04-01-2013, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
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If I were building I would go with the dual 15 version and use a readily available off the shelf drivers.

Hard to argue with the price vs performance of the UXL 18's though. I'm sure he will get the parts in eventually.
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