What's the best way to fill gaps in my woodworking? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 03-28-2013, 09:02 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm building a box and despite my best efforts, I still have about 1/16" to 1/8" to fill. What's the best way to do this? I'm using furniture grade .707 ply.
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post #2 of 19 Old 03-28-2013, 09:33 PM
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Everyone swears by PLPremium around here and I've used it a bunch as well. It seems to stand up to any task that is thrown at it is my experience. I've used it for more than just speaker enclosures and hasn't failed yet.
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post #3 of 19 Old 03-28-2013, 09:34 PM
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1/8" is a pretty big gap to fill.  I would glue a piece of wood behind the gap to make it air tight. Then fill with bondo.

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post #4 of 19 Old 03-28-2013, 10:32 PM
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I'll second the PL premium, don't even second guess it. Works as advertised, amazing adhesive.
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post #5 of 19 Old 03-28-2013, 10:35 PM
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You might not like this but if you have 1/8" gaps, I'd recut. No reason to risk it. Do it right and be done with it. JMTC.

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post #6 of 19 Old 03-28-2013, 10:59 PM
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The best thing you can do is trash the box, start over, and do it right. If you do, don't feel bad. Just about everyone who starts doing woodworking has been there.

If the gap is where two panels come together at right angles, you can glue or screw a cleat on the inside to provide the strength, then fill the gap with Bondo or another filler.

When you get done, it is still going to look like crap unless you are really, really skillful in hiding what you did, or you veneer it.
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post #7 of 19 Old 03-28-2013, 11:31 PM
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I have sanded back down to the primer 3 times already shooting for gloss black. Things are going well this round just finished wet sanding up to 2500 grit. Now just have to compound and polish when i get time. So dont feel bad starting over and dont settle because when your done you will regret not going that extra mile
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post #8 of 19 Old 03-29-2013, 12:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

The best thing you can do is trash the box, start over, and do it right. If you do, don't feel bad. Just about everyone who starts doing woodworking has been there.

If the gap is where two panels come together at right angles, you can glue or screw a cleat on the inside to provide the strength, then fill the gap with Bondo or another filler.

When you get done, it is still going to look like crap unless you are really, really skillful in hiding what you did, or you veneer it.

I really hope you are bleeping joking. He didn't say there was a gap the entire length of every panel and even if that was the case he could still trim the cuts to straighten them out.

Glue is stronger than wood and using the plpremium on the inside will fix the cutting errors while making an airtight bond. Don't skimp on glue on all of your seams as it is cheap and redoing it will be a major headache if end up with leaks.

Use a wood filler for exterior cosmetic flaws if that is a concern while leaving the glue to handle the structural ones. Using wood filler if staining the enclosure will be fine and you'll be the only one that notices it unless someone really wants to examine your work.

Bottom line, don't let the small stuff ruin your first experience. I've used plpremium and other similar glues on enclosures for the past 15-20 years in areas that need to be sealed and haven't ever had a "blow out" of sorts. The wood would rip before the glue fails.

Keep trucking and learn from your mistakes for future builds.
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post #9 of 19 Old 03-29-2013, 12:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjoseph24 View Post

I have sanded back down to the primer 3 times already shooting for gloss black. Things are going well this round just finished wet sanding up to 2500 grit. Now just have to compound and polish when i get time. So dont feel bad starting over and dont settle because when your done you will regret not going that extra mile

I'll say this. Spraying paint for a gloss finish has always given me headaches ( have commercial sprayers for residential work and car spraying systems). I've found that $3-$5 cans of spray paint from Walmart or lowes gets the job done easier than my professional equipment on smaller jobs that don't require a special tip for coverage patterns. I don't know why but have had better luck with the cans on smaller projects.
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post #10 of 19 Old 03-29-2013, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post

I really hope you are bleeping joking.
No, but I obviously have higher standards than you. And I am guessing that the OP does, too, considering he mentioned that he is using furniture grade plywood.
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post #11 of 19 Old 03-29-2013, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post

Everyone swears by PLPremium around here and I've used it a bunch as well. It seems to stand up to any task that is thrown at it is my experience. I've used it for more than just speaker enclosures and hasn't failed yet.
+1. PL will fill gaps as wide as 3/16" no problem. Unless you've got mad skills and the right tools don't worry about making perfect joints, just assume that you won't and let PL do its thing.

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post #12 of 19 Old 03-29-2013, 08:01 AM
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just fill it with PL as others have suggested or a combo or scrap wood + PL it will work fine, hit the inner and outer seams and you should be fine
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post #13 of 19 Old 03-29-2013, 08:52 AM
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I'm just going to say this. To all the guys suggesting PL it; if you do and the box doesn't seal or look right, are they going to come over and rebuild it for you? biggrin.gif

I've used PL as well, and I'm sure it will do the trick. I'm just wondering why not spend the extra 20 minutes and make sure everything is squared up? Believe me, you will spend less time recutting than you will cleaning up nasty PL. wink.gif Just sayin.

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post #14 of 19 Old 03-29-2013, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

I'm just going to say this. To all the guys suggesting PL it; if you do and the box doesn't seal or look right, are they going to come over and rebuild it for you? biggrin.gif

I've used PL as well, and I'm sure it will do the trick. I'm just wondering why not spend the extra 20 minutes and make sure everything is squared up? Believe me, you will spend less time recutting than you will cleaning up nasty PL. wink.gif Just sayin.

Yeah, it is about like cleaning up Gorilla Glue, nasty.

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post #15 of 19 Old 03-29-2013, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

I'm just going to say this. To all the guys suggesting PL it; if you do and the box doesn't seal or look right, are they going to come over and rebuild it for you? biggrin.gif

I've used PL as well, and I'm sure it will do the trick. I'm just wondering why not spend the extra 20 minutes and make sure everything is squared up? Believe me, you will spend less time recutting than you will cleaning up nasty PL. wink.gif Just sayin.
If you're blessed with the ability to cut everything perfectly good for you. For the 99% who will never do enough building to reach that skill level there's PL. As for clean up, it's easier than woodworking glue. After it sets it scrapes off easily, as outside of the joint it doesn't soak into the wood. The key is not to use too much, and don't try to clean up excess before it's set.

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post #16 of 19 Old 03-29-2013, 10:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Jeez! I' guess I should have clarified. The box is sealed using pl. I'm looking for something to smooth out the exterior prior to paint. I have some minor gaps that need filling prior to sanding.


Thanks for all the responses... User error!
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post #17 of 19 Old 03-29-2013, 10:44 AM
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Any filler will work for the asthetics...Wood filler, bondo, drywall mud, etc
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post #18 of 19 Old 03-29-2013, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

If you're blessed with the ability to cut everything perfectly good for you.

If you're blessed with the ability to apply PL without a mess, good for you. wink.gifbiggrin.gif

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post #19 of 19 Old 03-29-2013, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rr14 View Post

I'm looking for something to smooth out the exterior prior to paint. I have some minor gaps that need filling prior to sanding.
Well, if you are going to paint, Bondo, wood filler, or even sawdust and wood glue will do the job. Just be aware that your finish is only going to be as good as the substrate. Any difference in the surface between the filler and the plywood will telegraph through the paint. There is going to be some difference because of the lack of grain in the filler. You can minimize the difference by sanding only with the grain of the plywood, which you should be doing anyway. Don't sand it with your hand. You risk putting waves in the surface. Use a sanding block (nothing more than a piece of sandpaper wrapper around a a block of wood is necessary) or a finish sander.
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