Remote triggering an amplifier on an Onkyo amp without zone 1 12v trigger - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 22 Old 04-26-2013, 06:39 PM - Thread Starter
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I thought I'd share my idea with you all incase anyone else wants to do the same. I have wiried up a SSR (solid state relay) into a metal box to be used as a 12v trigger for my Onkyo 818 receiver, however my receiver only has triggers for zone 2 and 3. I don't really like the idea of having to do extra button presses of having to select zone 2 (or 3) with the remote, then hitting the power button to turn on the sub. Same thing for turning it off. This partially defeats the point of having a remote trigger because I may forget to turn the sub on or off.

I looked at my receiver for anything that had switched power and the USB ports (front and back) stood out to me. They both turn on and off with the receiver so I am going to use them to remotely trigger my SSR. USB provides 5v and my SSR only needs 3v, so everything should be fine.

The only issue I see, however it won't affect me, is that turning on the receiver's Zone 1, 2 or 3 turns on the the USB ports. This means that if you use zone 2 or 3 for another room, the sub would turn on. I don't use those zones so that isn't an issue for me.

I plan on swinging by radio shack to pick up an 1/8" male connector and taking a mini or micro USB cable and hacking the 2 together soon, I'll update with how it works, however it should work fine.

Nathan
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post #2 of 22 Old 04-26-2013, 08:00 PM
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If that doesn't work out for ya, can always use my favorite of hacking a atx pc power supply. Have it just come on when you power on your receiver and it will feed 12v, 3.3v, or 5v to anything needed.

To have the power supply come on outside with it you could have it on the same switched source as the receiver like one of those switched power strips. To make the power supply come on with plugged in power just open it and twist tie the green wire to a black ground. Makes it always on when plugged in and switched on.

Can't believe onkyo triggers don't feed or strap to zone 1. What's the point lol. I mean didn't they think you'd at least have a projector and maybe a screen in your main viewing area....what a joke biggrin.gif

"I should really see what dB levels I'm pushing. Long as it can't foam my beer during a movie we are ok "
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post #3 of 22 Old 04-27-2013, 06:01 PM - Thread Starter
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I didn't make it out to radio shack so instead, I just hacked 2 wires in half and soldered them together. USB type A on one side and 3.5mm headphone on the other.

It worked fine. This simple trick adds a 12v trigger to receivers that have USB ports, but only if the USB powers on and off. Well, thats not true, it added a 5V trigger to my receiver. I could now take a 12v power adapter or wall wart and plug it into my SSR (relay) to give me a true 12v switched trigger source. but that isn't needed for me.

Likewise, I could also use one of those smart power strips. The problem with those is that most people would plug their sub amps directly into it. If you have a very high wattage system, that isn't going to work well. That means you are drawing power for your receiver, and sub amps from the same outlet/breaker. I could potentially use a smart power strip and a 12v wall wart to trigger the amplifier relays. This would allow the subs and other triggered devices to be on their own outlets and breakers.
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Originally Posted by autox320 View Post

Can't believe onkyo triggers don't feed or strap to zone 1. What's the point lol. I mean didn't they think you'd at least have a projector and maybe a screen in your main viewing area....what a joke biggrin.gif

It is hard to believe that they can't get that simple feature right...

What are your doing that you need 3.3, 5 and 12v?
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post #4 of 22 Old 04-28-2013, 12:19 AM
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That is a good idea using the 12V power adapter in the smart strip to trigger the relay or using USB. Then the amps could be on a different outlet if you don't have a 12V trigger on your receiver. I am looking at getting an Onkyo 818 and was planning on using the 12V triggers for this purpose. Good to know ahead of time that wouldn't have worked and that you found a solution, thanks.

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post #5 of 22 Old 04-28-2013, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NathanJ View Post

What are your doing that you need 3.3, 5 and 12v?

Well I needed more than the standard 12V trigger could provide from the receiver when driving multiple relays (75ohm@12vdc). Also like you couldn't have all my gear sharing power strips.

Here's a peek at my rig. > > > post_23197038

"I should really see what dB levels I'm pushing. Long as it can't foam my beer during a movie we are ok "
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post #6 of 22 Old 04-28-2013, 06:33 AM
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Not trying to hijack, but I am searching for ways that I could power on my entire system for watching movies, powering up all components at once, preferably from my Denon's remote, or my iPad, or my iPhone. Here s what I have as far as components go:

Denon AVR-3312 (receiver)
Sony BDP-590 (bluray player)
Behringer EP-4000 (sub amp)
Mitsubushi WD-60735 (tv)

Any Ideas on how to go about doing this? I also have a cable box, an Art Cleanbox, and a ARRIS modem. Any opinions, or advise would be terrific!
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post #7 of 22 Old 04-28-2013, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Not trying to hijack, but I am searching for ways that I could power on my entire system for watching movies, powering up all components at once, preferably from my Denon's remote, or my iPad, or my iPhone. Here s what I have as far as components go:

Denon AVR-3312 (receiver)
Sony BDP-590 (bluray player)
Behringer EP-4000 (sub amp)
Mitsubushi WD-60735 (tv)

Any Ideas on how to go about doing this? I also have a cable box, an Art Cleanbox, and a ARRIS modem. Any opinions, or advise would be terrific!
belkin (if i'm not mistaken) have a power distributor/power strip that have the ability to be wired to your ARV 12V trigger. it accepts a trigger input from a remote equipment and turn on all the other equipment connected to it.

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post #8 of 22 Old 04-29-2013, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Not trying to hijack, but I am searching for ways that I could power on my entire system for watching movies, powering up all components at once, preferably from my Denon's remote, or my iPad, or my iPhone. Here s what I have as far as components go:

Denon AVR-3312 (receiver)
Sony BDP-590 (bluray player)
Behringer EP-4000 (sub amp)
Mitsubushi WD-60735 (tv)

Any Ideas on how to go about doing this? I also have a cable box, an Art Cleanbox, and a ARRIS modem. Any opinions, or advise would be terrific!

What are you trying to accomplish? It seems like you want a 1 button solution to turn everything on, is that right? Also, are you trying to turn off the cable modem when you shut down the system?
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Originally Posted by paskal9 View Post

belkin (if i'm not mistaken) have a power distributor/power strip that have the ability to be wired to your ARV 12V trigger. it accepts a trigger input from a remote equipment and turn on all the other equipment connected to it.
I just searched and only found the Belkin PF60 to have that feature from Belkin. If that is the main reason to own a device like that, a DIY switchbox can be made much cheaper with a SSR or a normal relay and a metal box.
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post #9 of 22 Old 04-29-2013, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NathanJ View Post

I just searched and only found the Belkin PF60 to have that feature from Belkin. If that is the main reason to own a device like that, a DIY switchbox can be made much cheaper with a SSR or a normal relay and a metal box.
not everyone is comfortable dealing with AC line and solder irons.

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post #10 of 22 Old 04-30-2013, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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I agree that not everyone is comfortable working with electricity. I am glad of that because many people should not attempt to do so.

I just found a device that is reasonably priced and is controlled from an external voltage source of 4 - 24v. http://www.smarthome.com/43998/Bits-Limited-LEG3-Energy-Saving-Smart-Strip-with-Volt-Sensing/p.aspx
A review on Amazon stated that someone hooks it up to his receiver's trigger. The picture is confusing though, but the description definitely states that it uses a trigger.
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post #11 of 22 Old 04-30-2013, 12:40 PM
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Definitely interested in this. Might need a little one on one time, so you can walk me through the details man.

 

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post #12 of 22 Old 04-30-2013, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NathanJ View Post


Likewise, I could also use one of those smart power strips. The problem with those is that most people would plug their sub amps directly into it. If you have a very high wattage system, that isn't going to work well. That means you are drawing power for your receiver, and sub amps from the same outlet/breaker. I could potentially use a smart power strip and a 12v wall wart to trigger the amplifier relays. This would allow the subs and other triggered devices to be on their own outlets and breakers.
It is hard to believe that they can't get that simple feature right...

Just a comment about the smart power strip (at least the one I tried) is that when I tried using one with my 1008 it just stayed on all the time. I think that may be related to the fact that I have RHID turned on, but I'm not sure....

I also had a bunch of equipment to turn on that needed more than a single circuit, so returned the smart strip and I ended up using a current sensing relay that turns on an outlet that I have a 12v wallwart plugged into. That in turn powers on a set of 4 30A (4 20A circuits) relays to turn on all my power strips. These power up all my amps and electronic xovers.
I have a post somewhere around detailing how I built it....

I do like the USB idea though... I may have to see if I can get that to work with my relay.

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, Over.....
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post #13 of 22 Old 03-27-2014, 03:55 AM
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any updates ?
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post #14 of 22 Old 03-27-2014, 04:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bombelman View Post

any updates ?
Who are you asking for updates from? I have been using the same setup since I originally posted, so apparently about a year now. No problems with my SSR or anything else. I can take mine apart and show the guts if someone would like me to.
Nathan
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post #15 of 22 Old 06-28-2014, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NathanJ View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by Bombelman 

any updates ?

Who are you asking for updates from? I have been using the same setup since I originally posted, so apparently about a year now. No problems with my SSR or anything else. I can take mine apart and show the guts if someone would like me to.
Nathan
I would appreciate some assistance here. I'm considering buying an external power amp for my Onkyo 818 AVR to wire front L/R (zone1). Most external power amps do have 12v trigger input but Onkyo only supports zone2/3 (as originally indicated above).

I'm not clear how to achieve this using USB out from Onkyo to 12V trigger input on the power amp. Maybe I misunderstood the whole concept?

Thanks
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post #16 of 22 Old 06-28-2014, 11:20 AM
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USB can only provide 5v so it won't switch on a 12v relay (unless that 12v relay works with lower voltages, you'd have to check the specs). You could build a relay to switch 12v from a wall wart.


Last edited by Mrkazador; 06-28-2014 at 11:29 AM.
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post #17 of 22 Old 06-28-2014, 08:29 PM
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USB can only provide 5v so it won't switch on a 12v relay (unless that 12v relay works with lower voltages, you'd have to check the specs). You could build a relay to switch 12v from a wall wart.

Many thanks. I'll give it a go
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post #18 of 22 Old 06-28-2014, 09:18 PM
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It is a real bummer that Onkyo's don't have a 12v trigger for zone 1. Not sure why they dropped the ball on that one! I have a 3009 and run a pair of XPA 1's, and a XPA 3, to power all 5 of my speakers. I use a harmony One remote, and it has macros. So when I power on my system I have it turn on zone 2, and that is what all my amps are triggered off of.
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post #19 of 22 Old 06-28-2014, 10:01 PM
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[QUOTE=Mrkazador;25337314]USB can only provide 5v so it won't switch on a 12v relay (unless that 12v relay works with lower voltages/QUOTE]

Hi Kazador,

I just checked the user guide of the amp I'm considering; Rotel 1552 Mk2. It states

... "The jack labeled IN is for connecting the 3.5mm Plug/Cable carrying a +12 volt trigger signal to turn the amplifier on and off. To use this feature the toggle switch must be set to the ON position. This input accepts any control signal (AC or DC) ranging from 3 volts to 30 volts."

So, I would imagine, a USB to 3.5mm jack cable carrying 5V would do the job (though I have no idea how to about it)?
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post #20 of 22 Old 06-28-2014, 10:20 PM
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Find any usb cable and cut one end off. Use a multimeter to confirm which is carrying 5v, solder a mono 3.5mm plug onto the other end

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post #21 of 22 Old 06-29-2014, 02:16 AM
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Thanks a lot, looks simple enough
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post #22 of 22 Old 08-06-2014, 05:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post
Find any usb cable and cut one end off. Use a multimeter to confirm which is carrying 5v, solder a mono 3.5mm plug onto the other end
Reporting back on this, it works just fine.

Onkyo 818 Pre L/R --> Rotel 1552 Mk2 --> Speakers
Onkyo 818 USB 5V line --> Rotel 1552 Mk2 trigger (as explained above)

BTW I found out the Rotel power consumption using the trigger (not stated in the manual)

Idle state ~ 40W (Onkyo is ON but no audio signal is sent, Rotel is ON, Trigger ON)
Stand-by < 1W (Onkyo is OFF, Rotel is ON, Trigger ON)
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