Speaker grill construction methods and types - what's your favorite? - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 48 Old 06-04-2013, 05:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

Those look great, I may try that method in the future.

Thanks Matt! I'm going to use this method going forward, but continue to try to improve on the design. smile.gif It's a minor PITA getting the corners close to perfect, but it's nice being able to easily pull the material out if it gets messed up.
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post #32 of 48 Old 06-07-2013, 07:18 PM
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Looks awesome - I'm gonna copy!
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post #33 of 48 Old 06-08-2013, 07:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Cool, enjoy. For me it's the details like these that are enjoyable. One can only build so many variations of square/rectangle boxes before they start to get curious. Whatever my next project will be, it will for sure be different than the recent stuff. smile.gif
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post #34 of 48 Old 07-17-2013, 06:18 AM
 
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Any suggestions for a grill for the Fusion Alchemy MTM? I was thinking like 3/4" or 1" thick wooden frame, 3/4" or 1" wide, with a 3/8" roundover around it, as I don't have a chamfer bit. I don't like the look of just a right angle edge. Embed 4 neodymium magnets in it as well as in the front baffle of the speaker.
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post #35 of 48 Old 07-17-2013, 06:42 AM - Thread Starter
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My suggestion, especially for loudspeakers, would be to make the grill as thin as possible to avoid diffraction and/or coloring the sound in any way. In general, the thinner grills look a lot better IMO. If you're using wood or MDF, 1/2" thick should be very feasible. You can put whatever edge you like on it - roundover or whatever would be personal preference. As for the magnets, either 3/8 or 1/2" diameter will do with some decent thickness like 0.2" or so. The 1/2" guys are very strong and may be a bit overkill for a speaker of that size.
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post #36 of 48 Old 07-17-2013, 07:39 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

My suggestion, especially for loudspeakers, would be to make the grill as thin as possible to avoid diffraction and/or coloring the sound in any way. In general, the thinner grills look a lot better IMO. If you're using wood or MDF, 1/2" thick should be very feasible. You can put whatever edge you like on it - roundover or whatever would be personal preference. As for the magnets, either 3/8 or 1/2" diameter will do with some decent thickness like 0.2" or so. The 1/2" guys are very strong and may be a bit overkill for a speaker of that size.

Yeah I have .4" diameter x .2" thick neo's so I'll just put those in the 4 corners and that will be super strong. I'll try to go for 1/2" thick then, and 3/4" wide so I can just cut 1/2" strips off the side of a piece of 3/4" MDF sheet. Thanks
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post #37 of 48 Old 07-17-2013, 08:23 AM
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I recently finished the grills for my Jack of All Trades build. They were magnetic grills, made from a lapped pine frame, with stapled grill cloth. I found out a few helpful tricks in assembly, but I think they've been mostly covered, so I won't put on my pedantry hat. Don't wanna preach to the choir. wink.gif
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post #38 of 48 Old 07-17-2013, 09:56 AM
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I think 1/2" grills are too thin... Some subs have pretty extensive excursions... I would not be surprised if the driver starts slapping the grill cloth if the subs are flush mounted. If the subs are recessed, it might be okay.

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #39 of 48 Old 07-17-2013, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon S View Post

I think 1/2" grills are too thin... Some subs have pretty extensive excursions... I would not be surprised if the driver starts slapping the grill cloth if the subs are flush mounted. If the subs are recessed, it might be okay.

That is a point worth noting - all of my speakers and subs are at least flush mounted if not recessed by an extra baffle. My DO dayton subs are recessed by one 3/4" baffle and use 3/4" grills. My SEOS speakers are flush mounted and use 1/2" grills but excursion is far less than a subwoofer. My SI subs use triple baffles (double recess on the driver) so that the grills have sufficient clearance.

Surround clearance is key so plan designs accordingly.
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post #40 of 48 Old 07-17-2013, 05:29 PM
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Diffraction wouldn't be a problem on a sub with the wavelengths we're dealing with. Make the grill deep enough to avoid the driver smacking it.

Nube, post a pic! I thought those tiny kite stick grills turned out sweet!! It was good table saw practice for you too.

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Building Bass - Subs

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post #41 of 48 Old 07-17-2013, 08:39 PM
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post #42 of 48 Old 07-21-2013, 05:09 PM
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Easy way of attaching a grill:








http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=293-685 + some .5" * .5" neodymium magnets. The magnets sit on top of the screws and have a very strong hold on the grill. I personally used a Peavey grill kit, but any metal grill should work.
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post #43 of 48 Old 07-21-2013, 05:38 PM
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What do you guys think about this style over the entire front of a SEOS build? http://www.reliablehardware.com/speakergrillisolatorkit-rh-5260bo.aspx

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post #44 of 48 Old 07-21-2013, 05:52 PM
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How will you treat the edges of the grill? They're going to be pretty sharp.

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post #45 of 48 Old 07-21-2013, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

How will you treat the edges of the grill? They're going to be pretty sharp.

Great .. a built in security system!
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post #46 of 48 Old 07-21-2013, 06:34 PM
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I finished a pair of GR Research Super Vs last Christmas.
The top of the speaker uses a 12" P-audio co-ax.
Its beautiful sounding but not much to look at.

I decided that I only wanted to grill the P-Audio, and leave
the bottom subs exposed. This is what I came up with.

Started with 1/4" MDF and scribe and cut it to the shape I wanted.
I decided I wanted the grill to stand off from the cabinet, so I bought some cleats
that accepted a fine thread. The grill is screwed on from the back.
Because of the open baffle design this is very easy

Pictures of the MDF with the cleats embedded and glued in place.



After the glue had dried I painted the frames black.
Heres a pic of the cleat from the back edge before I cleaned the extra
glue and debris away from them.



Once I had them prepped I started to cover them in grill cloth. I have no pics of
the process but I used a hot glue gun and popsicle sticks to smear and hold, stretch
the fabric down. once glued I took a razor blade and trimmed the excess material away.
It worked extremely well. A pic of the grill with fabric applied.



A pic of the screws holding the grill in place from behind.



Finally a pic of the finished speaker

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post #47 of 48 Old 07-21-2013, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

How will you treat the edges of the grill? They're going to be pretty sharp.

I think they have a bend option for the edges. But that's not really an issue; I don't think I'll be feeling up my finished speakers that much. Or maybe I will... biggrin.gif

I'm more worried about how it will affect the sound:

Round Perforated 16 ga. Steel
* 1/4'' Diameter Holes
* Staggered Pattern
* 11.87 Holes per Square Inch
* 58.3% Open Area

For the baffle, it seems like it would be better than your standard MDF trim with fabric, since it only uses a few mounting points and the rest is raised up. That should be an improvement for diffraction right?

But what about the actual metal grill with 58% open area- what will this do opposed to fabric?

I know it would work great for a subwoofer grill.
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post #48 of 48 Old 07-22-2013, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nfraso View Post

What do you guys think about this style over the entire front of a SEOS build? http://www.reliablehardware.com/speakergrillisolatorkit-rh-5260bo.aspx


What about this same idea for a standard cloth grill?

I like the idea of separating from the surface to avoid diffraction but don't know enough to say it it would cause the same problems....

Maybe a grill with just a top and bottom?

A piece of fabric attached to 2 piece of wood (top and bottom) then stretch out over the speaker.
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