Dayton RSS390HO-4 Flat Pack Build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 57 Old 05-20-2013, 06:08 PM - Thread Starter
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I am going to show progress on this build as soon as parts arrive!
Dayton 15" RSS390HO
Bash 500
DIY Sound Group 3cuft Sealed
Will hopefully be down-firing and painted semi-gloss black

I am going to attempt this without using clamps..I have some weights and other things I think I can get away with. If it proves difficult, I will pick some up.

The amp is going to sit in the sub chamber, my understanding is this is ok?

I need help with three more things
1. Screws - I would love to put this sub facing downward, the biggest fear I have is screws...what would it take to make sure it doesn't bounce it's way right on to the floor. What screws do you guys recommend? Considering I will have a big square hole, and the bracing can be worked around, I could theoretically use bolts/nuts...
2. Legs - I need a set of legs, I will need about 4" legs whether it is down firing or not as this is going to double as a table and that's the height I need. Do you guys know where to get any really good looking ones? I have seen a few people build ones with similar to what comes on Klipsch subs like a wider stanced leg AND if I have to use something like a couch leg, how do I screw it into the enclosure using the built in bolt?
3. Polyfill, how much and what kind of stuffing should be done? If any.
IF I think of anything or you guys see me missing anything let me know!

Here is what I have ordered so far for supplies:
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post #2 of 57 Old 05-20-2013, 07:16 PM - Thread Starter
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I think I found some legs. So far I like these. And there are tons on this site. I figure since this may turn out to be my best sub. Definitely better than the Kipsch I may as well make it look nice. I only wish they were black.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4pcs-Metal-Furniture-Tea-chair-sofa-leg-feet-6/466869219.html

And these. Which are cheaper and better height.
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post #3 of 57 Old 05-20-2013, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
1. Screws - I would love to put this sub facing downward, the biggest fear I have is screws...what would it take to make sure it doesn't bounce it's way right on to the floor. What screws do you guys recommend? Considering I will have a big square hole, and the bracing can be worked around, I could theoretically use bolts/nuts...

Spax screws. I used them on HO 15.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_6?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=spax+screws&sprefix=SPax+s%2Caps%2C772

You can hang a tank using them.

History is written by those who have hanged heroes ...

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Alpine SWR-1223D Slot Ported HT Sub

Dual Dayton RSS390HO-4 Reference 15 Build For HT

Main System: Klipsch RF-82 II, Klipsch RC-62 II, RS-52 II, Onkyo 5010, Rythmik FV15HP, PSB S300
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post #4 of 57 Old 05-20-2013, 10:25 PM
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Spax screws work great, however if those aren't readily available drywall screws work just as well. I've yet to have a sub works it's way loose with a course thread drywall screw.

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post #5 of 57 Old 05-22-2013, 09:24 AM - Thread Starter
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My original thought was to use drywall screws as well, I used them lots in car audio, never down firing though.
Those spax screws look like serious business, have to see if I can get me some.
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post #6 of 57 Old 05-25-2013, 02:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright got everything I need for build in except for the flat pack
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post #7 of 57 Old 05-25-2013, 02:45 PM
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DIYSoundGroup is a not-for-profit side "business" run by a guy (EricH) who has a very busy landscaping business at certain times of the year. It should get to you soon. Mine never took more than a week or two. smile.gif

Send him a message if you're getting antsy.

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post #8 of 57 Old 05-25-2013, 03:41 PM
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NO worries. With Erich he's a stand up guy. Like rebel.said. above . my order took 2 weeks .but was well worth it. when u see how he packs everything .you'll know why it takes him a. little longer. Plus the quality of the kits. Low price. Unbeatable. Imo.biggrin.gif
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post #9 of 57 Old 05-25-2013, 04:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I shot an email off a couple days ago. I'm good with patience when communicated to. I'm not in this to flame so ill keep my opinion at that. Otherwise it gives me a bit of time to find some legs and do some more bass measurement in the house!
Anyone know of some black legs similar to the second pic I posted up top. Something similar to....
This or this. Ps those JBL are pretty.


That or I am considering making a semi unseen mount that I can set the sub on so that if I preferred the sub forward facing in the future I will have the option without screwing legs to the enclosure. Kind of like a frame that only the legs show. Like a outrigger kit.

Also. The bash amp is soooo light surprising. Also the guts don't have a cover. Is it really okay for this to be mounted inside the sub chamber? Ps every pick of it online looks white. Turns out its silver. Which is a plus.
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post #10 of 57 Old 05-25-2013, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaneb0422 View Post

Alright got everything I need for build in except for the flat pack. Been over a week and no word on it so I don't know what to think. Really like the flat pack option but...

I see that you ordered it on the 19th and I got your email that you sent yesterday on the 24th. I don't think it's been over a week my friend. wink.gif I packaged it up last night and sent you an email reply today.

This isn't meant to sound bad or anything, but on occasion I do get some people that are upset when their order takes 5 days or more. But I've ordered a lot of stuff on the internet and many many times it takes 5 days+ for the item to ship, and that's from a huge company. I don't think I get any notifications after the initial 'order processing' one before it ships. So I'm really not sure what to send out during that waiting period because I've never seen an email from another company that says something like 'We're almost to your order', or something like that.
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post #11 of 57 Old 05-25-2013, 06:44 PM - Thread Starter
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I apologize. A business week.
Thanks for following up.
This is supposed to be a happy thread. So thanks for the feedback. As for your experience with online shopping. I'm sorry if you feel as though I was unfair to you. Thanks for replying to my email.

As for the bash amp and the Dayton in the 1.6 cube box. Holy cow that sub comes to life compared to the 150w that it was on. I'm pretty excited.
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post #12 of 57 Old 05-25-2013, 06:46 PM - Thread Starter
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I apologize. A business week.
Thanks for following up.
This is supposed to be a happy thread. So thanks for the feedback. As for your experience with online shopping. I'm sorry if you feel as though I was unfair to you. Thanks for replying to my email.

As for the bash amp and the Dayton in the 1.6 cube box. Holy cow that sub comes to life compared to the 150w that it was on. I'm pretty excited.
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post #13 of 57 Old 05-26-2013, 08:04 AM
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subscribed..
I am going to build one too and want to see your results
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post #14 of 57 Old 05-26-2013, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaneb0422 View Post

I think I found some legs. So far I like these. And there are tons on this site. I figure since this may turn out to be my best sub. Definitely better than the Kipsch I may as well make it look nice. I only wish they were black.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4pcs-Metal-Furniture-Tea-chair-sofa-leg-feet-6/466869219.html

And these. Which are cheaper and better height.

Man there's a lot of stuff on that site! Definitely bookmarked for future use, thanks!!

Scott
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post #15 of 57 Old 05-30-2013, 03:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Found a big problem...The bracing inside the box does not allow for a amplifier on any side....given that this is a down firing..I may have to cut into the bracing or scrap my original idea...frown.gif. I'm going to finish the enclosure and see what looks to be the best option.
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post #16 of 57 Old 05-30-2013, 06:49 PM
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Have you already purchased tte plate amp? If not, I would go with a used EP4000 or something similar. I used a Yung 300 watt plate amp on my older sub, and after upgrading to the EP4k I never looked back.
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post #17 of 57 Old 05-30-2013, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Have you already purchased tte plate amp? If not, I would go with a used EP4000 or something similar. I used a Yung 300 watt plate amp on my older sub, and after upgrading to the EP4k I never looked back.
I did, already have it, BASH 500....
I figure I will cut into the bracing..maybe re-work it a bit if it doesn't seem sturdy any longer. Any advice or if someone has seen a amp install on one of these kits that would be very helpful.

NOW - PICTURES!
Here is what I got done today - tomorrow I plan to finish prep and paint...still deciding whether or not I want run a 1/4 round on all edges, since rest of my furniture is squared, I probably wont. But I do want to get the seams to go away. I am using spackle for bondo.
And paint is going to be Satin Black Rustoleum. I am HOPING the paint will be pretty durable..else, I am going to do what I currently am doing. I have IKEA Lack coffee table, so I picked up a side table and set the table-top of it on top of my AT sub. I may do the same with the Dayton since it will match very well and keep the sub from getting drinks spilled on it and dishes chipping the paint. I can also attach it "temporarily" pending the sub won't always be a side table. (I don't like commitment)
I had to run to the store for two more clamps mid- work - I recommend at least 4 clamps for whoever does this build or similar. Also got to buy a few new tools...this project has gotten spendy!
Everything turned out pretty square. I also ran a bead of PL300 around the inside exterior seams just for extra protection. It got too dark and mosquito started biting so I called it a day.
I used too much glue on the double baffle - don't recommend using that much, made it very difficult to clamp and re-adjust with only one pair of hands.














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post #18 of 57 Old 05-31-2013, 09:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I finished prep, amp cutout and paint tonight..at least first round of paint.
I managed to find the space to mount the amp sideways without having to touch the bracing.
The paint is NOT working out. I am using Satin Rustoleum and apparently my smooth-as-a-babies-bottom to the touch prep job was no where near good enough for this paint.
I REALLY do not want to do a hammered finish or anything like that but I fear it is my only option at this point. Short of sanding away 3 coats of primer and 4 coats of paint or laminating the enclosure with melamine (which I seriously considered as to match the black ash furniture - just didn't want to stain it).
I am picking up Hammered Black tomorrow and will redo the paint.

EDIT: SO I just learned there is Vinyl Laminate at PE and it is cheap/easy to install...not to mention great reviews and will match my speakers and other subs.
I just ordered some...
I am also ordering the legs now and going to pick up some hurricane nuts I think for the sub mounting...I really have mixed feelings about how to mount the driver..this way though I figure if the screws give out I still have the space to run a hurricane nut or t-nut on it.










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post #19 of 57 Old 05-31-2013, 10:41 PM
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Most people put the amp on the back, but it's good to see that you also got it to fit on a different panel.

The Rustoleum hammered paint doesn't look too bad. The key for me was to keep lightly spraying it from about 16" away before it had a chance to completely dry. I think I waited about a minute between coats. That sounds backwards to what most would do, but it allowed me to keep building up the paint to a pretty good thickness, then it had more of a light textured look once it dried.

Just don't push it too hard or I suppose you could have some paint runs. Looking at your photos, you might be a little too close while spraying. I would guess a box that big will need 2 cans of the hammered spray paint. Maybe 3.
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post #20 of 57 Old 05-31-2013, 11:11 PM
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I figure if the screws give out I still have the space to run a hurricane nut or t-nut on it.

Coming along!! Don’t worry about the screws, just so they are course. If you do happen to strip one out, put a couple toothpicks in the hole and break them off.. then drive your screw back in. You could always ad some small blocks on the backside of your baffle and increase the length of your screws if your really worried about it, but your fine. You might choose a different paint next time though. What you chose is about the most revealing there is. wink.gif

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post #21 of 57 Old 06-01-2013, 09:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Most people put the amp on the back, but it's good to see that you also got it to fit on a different panel.

The Rustoleum hammered paint doesn't look too bad. The key for me was to keep lightly spraying it from about 16" away before it had a chance to completely dry. I think I waited about a minute between coats. That sounds backwards to what most would do, but it allowed me to keep building up the paint to a pretty good thickness, then it had more of a light textured look once it dried.

Just don't push it too hard or I suppose you could have some paint runs. Looking at your photos, you might be a little too close while spraying. I would guess a box that big will need 2 cans of the hammered spray paint. Maybe 3.
Ride on - I didn't get any runs - and I got through one can in about 6 super light coats. pic is wet at the end of about a hour and half of waiting 5-10 minutes in between light coats. Once dry the streaks tend to fade. I'm thinking lay another can of what I have on it and see how it looks with a pretty think coat. I won't go to hammered yet just in case I love the vinyl.
If paint sucks - use vinyl, but worth another can to see I imagine.
I saw the cutout on back for amp, unfortunately it's down firing so I wanted the amp on the "side" of the box...I was lucky though to find a good spot!
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Coming along!! Don’t worry about the screws, just so they are course. If you do happen to strip one out, put a couple toothpicks in the hole and break them off.. then drive your screw back in. You could always ad some small blocks on the backside of your baffle and increase the length of your screws if your really worried about it, but your fine. You might choose a different paint next time though. What you chose is about the most revealing there is. wink.gif
What kind of paint would you recommend?
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post #22 of 57 Old 06-01-2013, 10:52 AM
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You could use what your using now except to apply it by a fine nap 9” roller and then use it in the spray form as a last coat. It will go down thicker (help hide flaws) and have a very fine texture to the finished product. Sorry I don’t have a better pic but this does show the slight texture to a degree.






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post #23 of 57 Old 06-01-2013, 05:01 PM - Thread Starter
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That's actually not bad!!
Unfortunately I JUST saw it...as I am posting pics of the last 2 hours of my life and 12 more dollars in spray paint frown.gif.
I have used more sand paper and paint on this box than any thing else ever....all because I failed at prep...I don't think I could have prepped any better, but this is ridiculous!.
I just did the amp countersink, sanded with 600 grit and resprayed with Rustoleum 2x cover spray paint - the one they claim hides imperfections best...not true.
I went through a can of it and a can of the normal semi-gloss and while it looks much better than the satin stuff before...the crap is so revealing.

I am going to install sub after this dries - no more coats of paint. I

As can be seen - the issues are barely noticeable when I sanded the paint down..do you think a light sanding with high grit would be beneficial? Maybe take some of the gloss edge off thus reducing obvious imperfections?

IF I absolutely hate it and can't help but notice the nasty - I will use the vinyl I have already ordered and wrap it in Black Ash...
If the Vinyl sucks....and I will have to repaint.
I will go with roller. However I'm thinking I will test out a few options next time.



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post #24 of 57 Old 06-01-2013, 07:23 PM
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With these CNC boxes, there's really not much reason to add a lot of filler. Just sanding the bare mdf down along the edges will level out anything that might not have been glued 100% straight. If there are hair line gaps, a near see through layer of filler will be enough.

On that last photo you posted, it looks like you added some type of filler to bring up the level of the side panel to be flush with the one on top. But instead of doing that, you would just sound down that top layer to bring it down to match the side.
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post #25 of 57 Old 06-01-2013, 08:14 PM
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post #26 of 57 Old 06-01-2013, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

With these CNC boxes, there's really not much reason to add a lot of filler. Just sanding the bare mdf down along the edges will level out anything that might not have been glued 100% straight. If there are hair line gaps, a near see through layer of filler will be enough.

On that last photo you posted, it looks like you added some type of filler to bring up the level of the side panel to be flush with the one on top. But instead of doing that, you would just sound down that top layer to bring it down to match the side.

yeah, it looks like you should have just sanded the edge down instead of filling it it.

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post #27 of 57 Old 06-02-2013, 06:26 AM
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Keep you’re chine up Shane! You’re first DIY is always the hardest. Learning curve can be so frustrating at times...

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post #28 of 57 Old 06-02-2013, 09:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I am tempted to redo the whole thing, sand down, bring in more whatever to smooth out some of the lines...who knows...at this rate I'm thinking install the dang thing...
I had a few spots where it was uneven enough that I should have been able to "level" it out, I had a wide enough knife. but the seams where I did just showed up. It also got a bit out of hand, too long since I have used bondo. I know I can fix it...I'm just afraid of making it worse haha.

Out of curiosity, if you were in this situation...what would be your next step? Would you go hammered, sand down and try to smooth some of it out, or just use the stupid vinyl or something to cover it? I reckon I could paint the vinyl? Haha. Oh my.
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post #29 of 57 Old 06-02-2013, 11:03 AM
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Well to be honest with you I would have veneered it to begin with, but then that’s just me. Any chance of you cleaning it up and post a few more pic’s? It would give us a better idea how it looks as a whole... you might just want to leave it as is considering your getting tired of messing with it. Even going vinyl might be worse yet. If you do decide to sand it down, I would suggest a vibrating sander though.

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post #30 of 57 Old 06-02-2013, 11:09 AM - Thread Starter
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I've been using a vibrating sander. Dewalt finish.
I installed the driver. And put it inside. I'm over it for now. In all honesty I may get ambitious later on.
You don't like the vinyl? Seems from others pics it looks pretty nice.

I wanted to veneer it. I just didnt want to stain it. But I'm thinking that would have been easier.

The box will be flipped over down firing and about 4 inches higher. The table top will line up with a 1/4 inch over hang all around. Amp will be towards the wall. I am waiting for the legs from IKEA to arrive.

I will pull out the proper cam with flash and throw some pics up. If you think veneer or vinyl or resand and paint at this rate is a good plan. I will do it. Just wont happen till later next week.
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