Sanity check on plans before starting UXL-18 Build - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 43 Old 06-16-2013, 07:07 PM - Thread Starter
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The round sections in the corner are there to support the port (since it starts at the outside and curls back towards the front).

I may be able to make them separate pieces though as they shouldn't be required to support a ton of weight
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post #32 of 43 Old 06-16-2013, 07:17 PM
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I just didn't think it would need the round parts in the corner since the tubes should be very light. They'll be held up by the baffles and then by the back brace. If they were very heavy or if the sub were going to be moving around a lot then I'd probably put more effort into bracing the tubes.

How's this?




Or this?






Or this?





Or this?





Or even this?




Etc.


Note: The corners are rounded on the side that touches the tubes to better hold them in place.



Personally, I wouldn't go any more complicated than this, though:

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post #33 of 43 Old 06-16-2013, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
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The ports aren't exactly heavy, but they are long so I want to try and brace them a bit more. I could do what you said and just cut out circles to hold them in the corner, which would be straight forward.

A few quick questions. I want to try and add some bracing perpendicular to these.

1). Is more bracing necessary?
2). I've been under the assumption that you want to keep obstructions away from the internal port opening a distance equivalent to the diameter of the port (in my case 3 inches). Is it just from directly in front of it (the red lines on the left) or is it basically a half dome area that should be clear?
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post #34 of 43 Old 06-16-2013, 08:00 PM
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Sorry, I was obsessively editing my post for a while there. tongue.gif

This is how I'd work in perpendicular bracing. Dowels that connect from back brace to the back wall.





Black dots = dowels.

You could also connect the front brace to the back brace with dowels, but I'm not sure it's necessary.

Sorry for not making everything to scale, but you can see what I'm getting at.
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post #35 of 43 Old 06-16-2013, 08:28 PM
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You are over thinking this. Use the simple bracing you showed on the previous page. If you are worried about supporting the port tubes in the brace, get some of the foam pipe wrap they sell at home stores and wrap enough around the port at the brace to make a snug fit. This will support the port, give you some leeway if things don't line up exactly and most importantly make sure the port doesn't vibrate against the brace.
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post #36 of 43 Old 06-16-2013, 08:41 PM - Thread Starter
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djarchow, do you think I need any more bracing or should that be sufficient?
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post #37 of 43 Old 06-16-2013, 09:49 PM
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As long as you are using a double thick baffle, I wouldn't worry about extra bracing. For subs, I normally use a double thick rear panel as well but that is just personal preference as I usually use plate amps and like a bit more than 3/4" to flush mount the amp in. It also stiffens the rear panel as well.

Good luck,

Dennis
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post #38 of 43 Old 06-17-2013, 02:16 AM
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I liked your design in post 11. Nice and strong and holds all the ports. None of the subsquently proposed designs provide any real triangulation. With all this messing around you could have cut it out by now.
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post #39 of 43 Old 06-17-2013, 09:54 AM
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1). Is more bracing necessary?

no.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #40 of 43 Old 06-17-2013, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotsho111 View Post



djarchow's idea is where it's at. ^This, plus some foam to wrap around the pipes where they cross over the bracing. cool.gif
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post #41 of 43 Old 06-17-2013, 12:20 PM - Thread Starter
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How would you get a snug fit using just foam wrap? I could see that being a pretty loose fit and eventually vibrating loose
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post #42 of 43 Old 06-17-2013, 01:27 PM
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I used a circular cutout in a brace to hold a port a couple subs back. The tube was was a fairly tight fit in the brace but despite that when I cranked up the sub it still vibrated and the port tube just made it all that much louder. Not to mention, it was a PITA to get the port tube to line up exactly with the hole in the brace as the outside flare was flush mounted and I didn't have any wiggle room on that end either.

So the next time I decided to try something different and went with the foam. I didn't actually use the pipe wrap but had suggested that as it is easy to find, I had some of the thicker 1/8-1/4" foam sheets that comes as packing material and I just wrapped it wound the port tube enough to make a snug fit in the brace, put a couple zip ties on to hold it and shoved it through the hole in the brace. The foam was just enough to hold it in place and most importantly, eliminate any vibration of the port against the brace.
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post #43 of 43 Old 06-17-2013, 01:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright, I think I'll give that a shot. Go with something a bit simpler first time around to see what works/what doesn't without needing to bust my ass.

The sub should be in in 2 weeks or so so stay tuned for the build thread!
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