I looked at Festool's options. I was ready to buy one. I had originally decided that I wanted a SawStop table saw instead of my Unisaw, and I wanted a right-tilting model, so I went to my local Woodcraft to buy one. While there - I saw the Festool tracksaw, and that put everything on hold.
I decided to look into tracksaws a bit further and do more research. While I love the idea of a track-guided tool, where the wood is stationary and both hands are on the tool, the plunge saws seemed a little awkward to use. I've used a standard circ saw on a shop-made guide-board for years, but wasn't really happy with the approach.
After a lot of research, I chose Eurekazone's option
. For what I do, the fact that I can achieve cabinet-quality cuts with a commodity-priced saw and blade was a huge selling point. I initially bought it to break down sheet stock, with the idea that I'd square things up and do finishing cuts on my Unisaw. I quickly found out that there was no need to cut things twice, the tracksaw is plenty accurate.
I'll be honest, this approach is probably not for everyone, as there is a little bit of assembly required, and the end user is expected to "figure things out". It is not unpack the box, plug it in, and go. This is the "DIY" section though...so that shouldn't be an issue.
For me, using a tracksaw has been a game-changer. I have a Unisaw with a nice aftermarket fence that I have owned for close to 15 years now. I think that I have turned it on once in the last year. In comparison, I use my tracksaw multiple times each week.
Whatever tracksaw option you choose - it is a better way to cut sheet stock, though I have used mine to cut far more than that. While I initially bought it to cut plywood, I've cut plastics, tile, and aluminum (sheet, extrusions, and 1" thick plate) on it so far. Just use the right blade and feed rate, clamp the track in place on the workpiece, and the saw will cut a straight line.