Thinking of doing a Dayton 18" build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 33 Old 06-23-2013, 11:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Not sure if I should DIY my own box and go with a 9.3 ft^3 ported box, as suggested by WinISD, or if I should just go with something like this:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-7094

I'm not AWESOME at cutting wood, so I'm worried about doing it wrong, getting frustrated and then buying a box, anyway. The last sub boxes I built were . . . poor, to say the least. Everything seemed to be measured out correctly, but it never would go together straight (or I was unable to make it straight).

I'll probably start with one sub, but eventually get a second, because my room is pretty large (80' x 40' roughly), and place them in opposing corners (FR and RL seem to be the best places), powered by my Behringer EP-2500.

What else would I need to get with that kit, since I wouldn't be using a plate amp? Just terminal plugs?
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post #2 of 33 Old 06-24-2013, 01:04 AM
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I've been looking at DIY subs as well. I would suggest to buy a pre-cut box rather than building your own since you've said that you aren't good a cutting them anyway. That way you can save time and the headache. I would suggest buying the box from http://www.diysoundgroup.com/, and buying the woofer from parts-express.

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post #3 of 33 Old 06-24-2013, 03:41 AM
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The flat pack in the parts express link is from Erich, I think the package is cheaper than putting to two together on your own. From the DIY Sound Group the box can be made for the 18" Stereo Integrity driver.
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post #4 of 33 Old 06-24-2013, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWCgrad View Post

The flat pack in the parts express link is from Erich, I think the package is cheaper than putting to two together on your own. From the DIY Sound Group the box can be made for the 18" Stereo Integrity driver.

Yeah, I would go with that one instead. I didn't noticed the price difference. Hopefully, I will be building dual 18" towards the end of the year if we end up buying a house biggrin.gif

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post #5 of 33 Old 06-24-2013, 09:58 AM
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Stereo Integrity 18" + shipping = Dayton 18" with free shipping. They end up costing the same amount, unless SI is having discounted pricing like the pre-order.
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post #6 of 33 Old 06-24-2013, 10:40 AM
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Still a good deal for DIY.
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post #7 of 33 Old 06-24-2013, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWCgrad View Post

The flat pack in the parts express link is from Erich, I think the package is cheaper than putting to two together on your own. From the DIY Sound Group the box can be made for the 18" Stereo Integrity driver.

Just to be clear: what flat pack in the parts express link is from Erich? Is there a link on their product page that I'm missing, or does their offering actually ship from Erich. I'm confused.

EDIT: ok, it appears that Erich supplies the cabinet that PE is selling. ??? lol

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post #8 of 33 Old 06-24-2013, 12:30 PM
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I did take some of the boxes up to Parts Express. They are the same ones.
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post #9 of 33 Old 06-24-2013, 12:32 PM
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correct mastermaybe

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post #10 of 33 Old 06-24-2013, 04:16 PM
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In some configurations the SI models slightly better than the DA, but it is less than 2 dB at the most from what I'm seeing. The cost is pretty much the same when S/H is added to the SI.

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post #11 of 33 Old 06-24-2013, 09:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright, so I think I'm going to go with the PE flat pack + driver. The discount is pretty great.

Anything besides wood glue that I'll need to do to get these things pumping with my EP2500?
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post #12 of 33 Old 06-24-2013, 09:42 PM
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Rca/xlr cable or rca/trs

You can buy the plugs and mic cable at parts express if you want to build your own.
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post #13 of 33 Old 06-24-2013, 11:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

Rca/xlr cable or rca/trs

You can buy the plugs and mic cable at parts express if you want to build your own.

Sorry, I meant in terms of connections for the back of the box. I have the RCAs and such. I know the box has cutouts for a plate amp, but since I won't be using one, I'm assuming I'll need some kind of plate that will allow me to connect to some binding posts.

Will probably be using 12 gauge wire, even though one of the runs is about 40 feet. Everything I read tells me that it should be fine. I'm not even going to be pushing half of the power of the amp to them, anyway. My wife would murder me.
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post #14 of 33 Old 06-26-2013, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silock View Post

Sorry, I meant in terms of connections for the back of the box. I have the RCAs and such. I know the box has cutouts for a plate amp, but since I won't be using one, I'm assuming I'll need some kind of plate that will allow me to connect to some binding posts.

Will probably be using 12 gauge wire, even though one of the runs is about 40 feet. Everything I read tells me that it should be fine. I'm not even going to be pushing half of the power of the amp to them, anyway. My wife would murder me.

Well, the box doesn't come with a pre-cut spot for the plate amp. It just gives you the option to cut your own spot.

As for terminals, I'd go with these.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=091-1245

I used these with my Dayton 18" build, and they're super beefy and strong.

Feeding each Dayton 750W will be plenty to make your wife murder you.

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post #15 of 33 Old 06-26-2013, 10:35 PM
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I am considering a very similar build. I will be watching this thread with interest. Please keep us updated
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post #16 of 33 Old 07-14-2013, 01:46 AM
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Any updates?

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post #17 of 33 Old 08-16-2013, 12:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Update is that I ordered one, but they sent the wrong box. And football season is nearly upon us, so I need to get it going.

I was contemplating just going ahead and building a box for the first one, and then seeing how it goes. I'll definitely add a second sub, but whether I build my own box or go with a flat pack depends on how well my DIY box goes.

I'd like for the first box to not be too high, so I came up with these dimensions using WinISD and Boxnotes.

D = 25"
H = 24"
W = 35"

That gives me an internal volume of 9.92 before bracing and ports. Adding 3" x 7 1/2" (two) tunes the box to 20.1.

Now, because my box is only 2 feet high, that doesn't leave me any room for the shelf brace. So, I was thinking of just running four thick dowel rods across the width, and another four front to back for the bracing. Combine that with some of the edge bracing, and I'm thinking that should be enough bracing, right?

Another reason I'm thinking of just doing my own ported box is that the sealed 4 cu ft. box just doesn't seem to have the really low end that I'd want out of an 18.
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post #18 of 33 Old 08-16-2013, 12:21 AM
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I believe Erich / DIYsound will be having ported 18" boxes soon.

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post #19 of 33 Old 08-16-2013, 12:24 AM
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I don't think 3" ports are going to cut it for an 18" sub.
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post #20 of 33 Old 08-16-2013, 12:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

I don't think 3" ports are going to cut it for an 18" sub.

In what way? Noise?
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post #21 of 33 Old 08-16-2013, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silock View Post


In what way? Noise?

 

Chuffing and I think port compression

 

You're going to need something like three 4" ports or four 3" ports. A slot port could also work if you can't fit all these ports.

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post #22 of 33 Old 08-16-2013, 02:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Four 3 inch ports would have to be 18 inches each. That's doable, if a bit unorthodox.

Three 4 inch ports would have to be 22.5 inches each, and that would make the box a bit deeper.

This is, of course, assuming that they're front-firing or rear-firing. Side-firing would be easier to fit.
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post #23 of 33 Old 08-17-2013, 07:13 AM
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Yes, you will need to use larger ports to eliminate port noise and compression. To give you an idea, my bedroom sub uses two TC sounds epic 12s. I'm using 2 of the flared 4" ports for each sub. I'm somewhat close to them as they are basically at the foot of my bed, but don't hear a peep for port noise. You should model your cabinet in winisd and see what kind of port velocity you get with each configuration.

If it were me I'd probably go with a slot port since it would be a lot cheaper, but since you admit that you're not the best at woodworking then I'd go with the three 4" ports lined under the driver. Make it look like a large svs pb13 ultra cool.gif

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post #24 of 33 Old 08-18-2013, 10:16 PM - Thread Starter
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What input signal level do I use to figure out the best port configuration? There's a huge difference between telling it I'm feeding 200watts versus 600.
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post #25 of 33 Old 08-18-2013, 10:23 PM
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you answered your own question.

if you are going to send it 200 watts and want to optimize for that, then if you send it 600 it will perform not as well at that level. how big that difference is is exactly what the air speed numbers are telling.

ok, maybe that didn't help as much...

perhaps this might?

http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/flare-testing.htm

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post #26 of 33 Old 08-18-2013, 11:37 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't think I did answer it, though. I mean, I have an EP2500. I could theoretically send 1000s of watts to each woofer, which means I could theoretically need ports infinitely bigger than the box.
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post #27 of 33 Old 08-19-2013, 12:19 AM
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If you plan to input 1000w into the Dayton 18 HO then you have to model it at 1000w input power. If you're only going to run it off one channel of the Ep2500 then the amp can only output ~600w into 4ohms. Doing a ported sub is a balancing act. You got to find the right balance of enclosure size, tune, and port.

 

If you don't want to deal with multiple long port bends then a slot port is another option.

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post #28 of 33 Old 08-19-2013, 02:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Is there a way to design a slot port in a free software application like Boxnotes?
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post #29 of 33 Old 08-20-2013, 08:21 AM
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WinISD will model slot ports, but I don't know if it will subtract port volume from enclosure volume.
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post #30 of 33 Old 08-20-2013, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post

WinISD will model slot ports, but I don't know if it will subtract port volume from enclosure volume.

 

No it wont but you can use this calculator

 

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/enclosure-volume-calculator/

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