Newbie sub build realtiy check - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 06-24-2013, 06:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi all,

I've been reading through the threads on this forum for the past few months after I initailly got interested in building my own sub. My woodworking skills are novice at best (I've built acoustical frames and panels, but that's about the extent of it).

Based on my room and future goals, I decided on a 15 inch driver. BTW, I'm currently running a BIC PL-200 12".

So, here's what I've gotten together so far.
1) Flatpack from Erich
2) Dayton Ultimax 15
3) Bash 500
4) Titebond III for assembly
5) Drywall compound for edge sealing

I haven't decided on how I'm going to mount the driver. T-nuts and the like seem a bit complicated as easy to screw up. Spax screws (what some others have recommended) seem like a good bet, but I would be limited on driver removal and such. I don't really know if this would be a problem or not.

Also, for paint I think I'm decided on Duratex. I'm not interested in a gloss finish at all, and I'd like something that would be durable and relatively easy to apply. I think I could get away with one of the trial sizes to paint my entire box.

I think I would need around 3.0 cu ft of polyfill or something similar. The stuff on PE seems really expensive for what it is. Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative?

Finally, thanks for all of the information that everyone has posted on this forum.

-Erik
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post #2 of 11 Old 06-24-2013, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by efaust View Post

Hi all,

I've been reading through the threads on this forum for the past few months after I initailly got interested in building my own sub. My woodworking skills are novice at best (I've built acoustical frames and panels, but that's about the extent of it).

Based on my room and future goals, I decided on a 15 inch driver. BTW, I'm currently running a BIC PL-200 12".

So, here's what I've gotten together so far.
1) Flatpack from Erich
2) Dayton Ultimax 15
3) Bash 500
4) Titebond III for assembly
5) Drywall compound for edge sealing

I haven't decided on how I'm going to mount the driver. T-nuts and the like seem a bit complicated as easy to screw up. Spax screws (what some others have recommended) seem like a good bet, but I would be limited on driver removal and such. I don't really know if this would be a problem or not.

Also, for paint I think I'm decided on Duratex. I'm not interested in a gloss finish at all, and I'd like something that would be durable and relatively easy to apply. I think I could get away with one of the trial sizes to paint my entire box.

I think I would need around 3.0 cu ft of polyfill or something similar. The stuff on PE seems really expensive for what it is. Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative?

Finally, thanks for all of the information that everyone has posted on this forum.

-Erik

You could glue scrap 3/4" plywood on the inner baffle and use regular wood screws. You could cut a plywood ring and glue it to the inner baffle and then use wood screws.

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post #3 of 11 Old 06-24-2013, 07:47 AM
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Just buy Wal-Mart pillows for polyfill.
When I was buying some for my 6cuft monster I checked out with like 10 of the $3 pillows.
Best look at the register biggrin.gif

Also having used T-nuts on EVERYTHING. I would avoid using them on bigger subwoofers.
Honestly you'll be removing the driver maybe, once, twice, five times? It's not enough to mess the wood up.
It's just easier then having to worry about the nuts spinning, or being slightly out of line.
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post #4 of 11 Old 06-24-2013, 10:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Thatsnasty - sounds like a good idea. I've got no problem getting strange looks from Walmart employees. So, you're saying that the mdf would be enough to hold the driver without too much issue?
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post #5 of 11 Old 06-24-2013, 10:39 AM
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I pilot drill driver mounting holes, and then squirt a bit of gorilla glue into each hole. After a couple hours it bubbles up and hardens, simply cut off the excess with a razor. This makes the hole very tough, and perfectly capable of allowing the screws to torque down.


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post #6 of 11 Old 06-24-2013, 03:15 PM
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Why do you think t-nuts are so difficult to use? Except for a small speaker, I would never use a wood screw straight into MDF or good plywood.

I suggest you buy a self centering drill bit. Also called a vix-bit. It has a body with a tapered nose. Gently place the driver in the cutout. The vix-bit will center itself when pressed into the hole in the driver frame. Your holes will be perfectly aligned. If your vix-bit is not the correct size for the t-nut, remove the driver, and redrill the holes with the correct size. The holes will still be perfectly aligned with the driver frame.

Don't hammer the t-nuts in. Pull them in with the proper screw/bolt and a washer under the bolt head.

I use rope putty under the driver frame as a sealant. It is malleable, and produces a more reliable seal than foam tape.
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post #7 of 11 Old 06-24-2013, 03:50 PM
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I agree that t nuts or an even better option of hurricane nuts are not that bad to use. I use them occasionally on builds with larger drivers.
There are however things to watch for. Run a tap through each one to clean up the threads as there can be burrs in them sometimes. Also when installing them I use 5 minute epoxy to ensure that they don't come loose. I'm not opposed to using drywall screws at times but t nuts and hurricane nuts do offer much more holding pressure. Whether it is needed is another discussion.
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post #8 of 11 Old 06-24-2013, 07:26 PM
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I agree that t nuts or an even better option of hurricane nuts are not that bad to use.
I've pretty much given up on them, the quality is so poor that if you even look at them cross-eyed they'll spin out. I've revised almost all of my designs using driver spacers that give enough wood thickness to use screws instead.

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post #9 of 11 Old 06-25-2013, 12:04 PM
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Drywall compound for sealing? Just use regular painters caulk. Drywall compound turns hard when it dries. I would not be surprised if it started flaking loose shortly after the sub gets put to use.
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post #10 of 11 Old 06-25-2013, 12:17 PM
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The drywall compound would be for the outside seems.

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post #11 of 11 Old 06-25-2013, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

The drywall compound would be for the outside seems.
It would eventually come loose. Bondo works very well.

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