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post #1081 of 1678 Old 07-11-2014, 08:30 AM
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I was going to put a 1099 with Elvis or the Loch Ness monster, but my Photoshop skilz are not very good.
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post #1082 of 1678 Old 07-11-2014, 08:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by likelinus View Post
What changes are you making to the Fusion 10? I just ordered (2) of these a few days ago. What is going to be different and is it worth waiting to get a newer design?
What ever you ordered should be the latest. Erich has the essentials. I just need to put together the whole gambit of measurements and a nice schematic.

You're the first I know of
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post #1083 of 1678 Old 07-11-2014, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
What ever you ordered should be the latest. Erich has the essentials. I just need to put together the whole gambit of measurements and a nice schematic.

You're the first I know of
Oh OK, good to know! Due to size constraints I was unable to use 1099s as my L/R. So I did the next best thing and ordered the Pure 10s. I know it's not a perfect match, but it uses the same speakers, designer , and looks to be similar crossover parts. So it should be close enough that I'll be happy (fingers crossed). Plan on starting the 1099 this weekend and try to knock it out. Can't wait to get the Pure 10s in!
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post #1084 of 1678 Old 07-13-2014, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post
I was going to put a 1099 with Elvis or the Loch Ness monster, but my Photoshop skilz are not very good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
What ever you ordered should be the latest. Erich has the essentials. I just need to put together the whole gambit of measurements and a nice schematic.

You're the first I know of
I have a question on my baffle for the 1099. I am using a Seymour DIY screen and my current speakers are BOSE 301s and VSC 10 center. They are small enough to put above the frame and the tweeter is a little higher than the first row ears.

First row is 10'6" from screen. Screen is 24" from wall treated with 1/2" mineral wool. the height of ears when reclined is 38" give or take (I am 6' tall) the frame is 5" thick so bottom edge 29" from floor and inside edge being 34" from floor. (there is an 8" stage and the frame is 21" higher)

Will I need to get the 1099 with the 10" SEOS and mid drivers at the bottom so they are closer to ear height or should I just get the standard baffle and split the bottom woofer with the 5" frame. I know this is not ideal.

Last edited by cw5billwade; 07-13-2014 at 09:37 AM.
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post #1085 of 1678 Old 07-13-2014, 03:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey Bill, maybe I missed it, but how high would the tweeter be if you raised it up so the whole speaker was behind the screen. Wouldn't that be best?
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post #1086 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post
I have a question on my baffle for the 1099. I am using a Seymour DIY screen and my current speakers are BOSE 301s and VSC 10 center. They are small enough to put above the frame and the tweeter is a little higher than the first row ears.

First row is 10'6" from screen. Screen is 24" from wall treated with 1/2" mineral wool. the height of ears when reclined is 38" give or take (I am 6' tall) the frame is 5" thick so bottom edge 29" from floor and inside edge being 34" from floor. (there is an 8" stage and the frame is 21" higher)

Will I need to get the 1099 with the 10" SEOS and mid drivers at the bottom so they are closer to ear height or should I just get the standard baffle and split the bottom woofer with the 5" frame. I know this is not ideal.
Could you put the speakers upside down behind your screen?
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post #1087 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Hey Bill, maybe I missed it, but how high would the tweeter be if you raised it up so the whole speaker was behind the screen. Wouldn't that be best?
I am not sure how high is the tweeter right side up or upsidedown? Do not the mids also provide speaking voice? If I raised it up so thewhole speaker is above the screen the bottom will be 34” from the floor so Iassume the bottom of the woofer would be about ear height of 38” That is why Iwas think if I put the mids and tweeter on the bottom it would be just aboutright.
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post #1088 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 08:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Getting the tweeter and/or mids right at listening height is not as much of an issue with this speaker as others. The vertical range is quite wide, because the mids are so small. That would be simpler to build and reduce the diffraction you'd get off your screen frame. Unless you sit really close. Can you lower the screen?
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post #1089 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Getting the tweeter and/or mids right at listening height is not as much of an issue with this speaker as others. The vertical range is quite wide, because the mids are so small. That would be simpler to build and reduce the diffraction you'd get off your screen frame. Unless you sit really close. Can you lower the screen?
What would be simpler to build? I thought Erich said he could do the baffle either way. I sit in front for the IMAX effect having a 12”wide screen. My wife says that is too close and sits in the back and at 5’3”she gets heads in her way from tall people that is why I actually raised it 3 “from the original height! Have to make the wife happy or all this is for naught. My riser is 12” FWIW. I just thought your original design upside down would be perfect. Do the mids need to be below the tweeter? I am new at all of this

my seat front row 2nd from right her seat is rear row 2nd from left. If it is just us I move up a row. I have a Denon X-4000 and tuned to my seat.

from side

from back

hope this helps picture is wort 1000 words they say
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post #1090 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 08:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Nice theatre.

Maybe I'm not understanding. I thought you were gonna cut up the baffle and put the woofer below the frame and the rest of the speaker above it, behind the screen.

The 1099 should sound just fine upside down. Maybe I'll give it a try tonight.
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post #1091 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 09:01 AM
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we are confusing each other I think! In your old Avatar picture where you had it TMMWW if I were to build it that way and put that upside down wold that be ok


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post #1092 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 09:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Oh I see. Yes you could do that. I'm not sure Erich will be able to get those baffles made. Possibly... Cutting the baffle he has would be a tad tricky. There isn't much meat between the mids and woofer.
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post #1093 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post
I was going to put a 1099 with Elvis or the Loch Ness monster, but my Photoshop skilz are not very good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Oh I see. Yes you could do that. I'm not sure Erich will be able to get those baffles made. Possibly... Cutting the baffle he has would be a tad tricky. There isn't much meat between the mids and woofer.
Erick can you cut 3 baffles like this?

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post #1094 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Oh I see. Yes you could do that. I'm not sure Erich will be able to get those baffles made. Possibly... Cutting the baffle he has would be a tad tricky. There isn't much meat between the mids and woofer.
if not what is better having the mids closer to the MLP or the tweeter?
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post #1095 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 09:29 AM
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The custom stuff isn't easy to get done any more without larger orders. They just don't have time for a few baffles unless the price was pretty high and I'm not sure you would want to do that.
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post #1096 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 09:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post
if not what is better having the mids closer to the MLP or the tweeter?
About the same. They're only about 7" apart. At the LP, there's no difference. Do it the way it's most convenient.
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post #1097 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 10:01 AM - Thread Starter
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My speakers are going to another persons house today, who'll be at the Vancouver GTG. I don't have enough room in my car so he'll take them over in his van so I can bring over my big TMM speakers. I've hardly had a chance to listen, they're not even broken it! That's ok, he'll hopefully hammer on them for me
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post #1098 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 10:27 AM
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Bill, another possible option for you might be to raise up the speakers and then angle them back down if you really that worried about it.


Erich, You mentioned that you are having a harder time with custom baffles. Does this include non rounded over edges on the front baffles or do you still do that by hand after the fact? Im ordering more here in the next month or so and will want squared off again.

Thanks
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post #1099 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 10:47 AM
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While on the topic of the 1099 baffles is it a good idea to order extra non-rounded over baffles to double up the baffle thickness ?
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post #1100 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by HFGuy View Post
While on the topic of the 1099 baffles is it a good idea to order extra non-rounded over baffles to double up the baffle thickness ?
No, the included baffle has each cutout recessed so that the drivers are more flush mounted. All you need to do if you want a double baffle, which you don't actually need for these, is to cut a piece of MDF the same dimensions as the baffle, glue the two together and then just cut out the holes on the new one that you cut.
For my build, I just cut small blocks of plywood and glued them in place where the screws for the woofer go through. There is no need for any more reinforcement for the mids and the SEOS.
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post #1101 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post
I was going to put a 1099 with Elvis or the Loch Ness monster, but my Photoshop skilz are not very good.
Feeling like a winner...

Elusive1099Elvis.jpg
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post #1102 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 12:16 PM
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I kind of wanted to avoid buying a router.


P.S. why do i quote the post I hit quick reply on all the time ?
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post #1103 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 12:18 PM
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I kind of wanted to avoid buying a router.
That's ok too! Just glue the two panels together and use a jig saw to cut out the holes. Just be careful not to damage the baffle, and you'll be fine.
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post #1104 of 1678 Old 07-14-2014, 12:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Feeling like a winner...

Attachment 160921
Brilliant!
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post #1105 of 1678 Old 07-15-2014, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
That's ok too! Just glue the two panels together and use a jig saw to cut out the holes. Just be careful not to damage the baffle, and you'll be fine.
I would line up the baffle and trace out the cuts before gluing! No way to mess up the recessed baffle that way.
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post #1106 of 1678 Old 07-15-2014, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HFGuy View Post
While on the topic of the 1099 baffles is it a good idea to order extra non-rounded over baffles to double up the baffle thickness ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
No, the included baffle has each cutout recessed so that the drivers are more flush mounted. All you need to do if you want a double baffle, which you don't actually need for these, is to cut a piece of MDF the same dimensions as the baffle, glue the two together and then just cut out the holes on the new one that you cut.
For my build, I just cut small blocks of plywood and glued them in place where the screws for the woofer go through. There is no need for any more reinforcement for the mids and the SEOS.
Don't use MDF for the inner baffle. Use 3/4" plywood and then you can use wood screws to fasten the driver to the front baffle. Gets you out of having to use inserts, because you do not want to rely on a screw going into just MDF. MDF does not hold a screw very well.

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post #1107 of 1678 Old 07-15-2014, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post
Don't use MDF for the inner baffle. Use 3/4" plywood and then you can use wood screws to fasten the driver to the front baffle. Gets you out of having to use inserts, because you do not want to rely on a screw going into just MDF. MDF does not hold a screw very well.
That's a good suggestion and the reason why I just glued little blocks of plywood to my baffle.
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post #1108 of 1678 Old 07-15-2014, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
That's a good suggestion and the reason why I just glued little blocks of plywood to my baffle.
I always double baffle for strength, but if you do not need a double baffle, glued blocks or a ring of plywood on the inside work well.

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post #1109 of 1678 Old 07-15-2014, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post
Don't use MDF for the inner baffle. Use 3/4" plywood and then you can use wood screws to fasten the driver to the front baffle. Gets you out of having to use inserts, because you do not want to rely on a screw going into just MDF. MDF does not hold a screw very well.
Mike, my apology in advance for my reply here...nothing personal.

I completely disagree and I do based on personal experience.
I'm going on 2 years having my 21's built and I rotate my subs every 6 months (180 degrees) and have been using the same screws and same screw holes since.
My front cabs wall are double baffled and have 0 problems.
I blast the crap out of my subs EVERY day and I check the screws periodically to make sure they are tight!
Yes I'm anal about tightness

I have never had a screw loosen up or anything.
I screw using a very powerful drill until the bit skips. That's how tight it's in. I can't even overdrive the bit in !

Again this is my personal experience...big screws on MDF gives me no problems whatsoever.
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post #1110 of 1678 Old 07-15-2014, 11:06 AM
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I too have had no problems with wood screws into MDF, going on two years on my LMS-R now. Everything I've ever built I've used wood screws and MDF. I don't doubt the MDF holds worse than ply though. And I imagine in a few years I'll have to rotate the subs and make new holes.
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