A 3 way 99db multi configurable SEOS design - Page 43 - AVS Forum
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post #1261 of 1844 Old 07-28-2014, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
I just use binding posts. Two quick hole to drill and done. Looks clean and banana plug pops in.
Which do you use? Something like these: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...gold--091-1245
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post #1262 of 1844 Old 07-28-2014, 01:46 PM
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Which terminal cup is everyone using on these? I thought about using speakons. I love how they lock but are easy to remove if needed.
speakons are awesome, the best speaker connection I think. Like you said, they're secure, easy to hook-up and super easy to remove.


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post #1263 of 1844 Old 07-28-2014, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by sslv2pwned View Post
Which do you use? Something like these: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...gold--091-1245
Yeah same ones at diysoundgroup but a little cheaper
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/accesso...inding-03.html

I forgot to get them earlier today with my 1099. I was so excited and wanted to hit purchase before they were gone. Usually I pore over my order double checking and casually looking at the whole site.
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post #1264 of 1844 Old 07-28-2014, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Yeah same ones at diysoundgroup but a little cheaper
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/accesso...inding-03.html

I forgot to get them earlier today with my 1099. I was so excited and wanted to hit purchase before they were gone. Usually I pore over my order double checking and casually looking at the whole site.
Ditto. LOL
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post #1265 of 1844 Old 07-28-2014, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by niktak11 View Post
The one I finished has ~40lbs of sand in the bottom chamber. Did you use sand too?
I didn't use any sand at all. the footprint and the weight of the MDF and with everything else make them pretty stable. Now if you're using them as a tackling dummy, i'm not sure anything would keep them from falling over.
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post #1266 of 1844 Old 07-28-2014, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mbyrnes View Post
Oh by the way, been listening to mine for 6+ hours today, probably causing serious hearing damage the whole time. They sound so good really loud. I can't help it!
I told Tux the more i listen to them the better they sound. he said i should cut back on my drinking and to stop reading FatShaft's posts.
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post #1267 of 1844 Old 07-28-2014, 03:38 PM
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That's awesome.
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post #1268 of 1844 Old 07-28-2014, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augmont View Post
I told Tux the more i listen to them the better they sound. he said i should cut back on my drinking and to stop reading FatShaft's posts.
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Equipment Speakers:
3x 1099's for LCR duty
4x Fusion 8's for surround duty
8x subs: 4x FTW21's and 4x SI18's
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post #1269 of 1844 Old 07-28-2014, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augmont View Post
I told Tux the more i listen to them the better they sound. he said i should cut back on my drinking and to stop reading FatShaft's posts.
Try to wait until the pm to drink
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post #1270 of 1844 Old 07-28-2014, 03:52 PM
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Try to wait until the pm to drink
My motto is "it's PM somewhere in the world."
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post #1271 of 1844 Old 07-28-2014, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Try to wait until the pm to drink
Can't drink ALL day if you don't start in the morning ;-)

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post #1272 of 1844 Old 07-28-2014, 04:11 PM
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I have a little more chest hair but it's pretty close to a self portait......
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post #1273 of 1844 Old 07-28-2014, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Yeah same ones at diysoundgroup but a little cheaper
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/accesso...inding-03.html

I forgot to get them earlier today with my 1099. I was so excited and wanted to hit purchase before they were gone. Usually I pore over my order double checking and casually looking at the whole site.
already had them in my cart or would have done the same


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post #1274 of 1844 Old 07-28-2014, 06:36 PM
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LOL... I just measured my B&W's. They are 36" tall by 9" wide. I haven't told my wife that the new speakers will be about 20" taller. Oops.
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post #1275 of 1844 Old 07-28-2014, 06:45 PM
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Tux I am posting this again since my tweeter is going to be about 12"-15" above MLP ears would it be better to use the center in horizontal or vertical like L/R I just ordered 3 vertical 1099s

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Originally Posted by Erich H View Post
I was going to put a 1099 with Elvis or the Loch Ness monster, but my Photoshop skilz are not very good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
What ever you ordered should be the latest. Erich has the essentials. I just need to put together the whole gambit of measurements and a nice schematic.

You're the first I know of
I have a question on my baffle for the 1099. I am using a Seymour DIY screen and my current speakers are BOSE 301s and VSC 10 center. They are small enough to put above the frame and the tweeter is a little higher than the first row ears.

First row is 10'6" from screen. Screen is 24" from wall treated with 1/2" mineral wool. the height of ears when reclined is 38" give or take (I am 6' tall) the frame is 5" thick so bottom edge 29" from floor and inside edge being 34" from floor. (there is an 8" stage and the frame is 21" higher)

Will I need to get the 1099 with the 10" SEOS and mid drivers at the bottom so they are closer to ear height or should I just get the standard baffle and split the bottom woofer with the 5" frame. I know this is not ideal.


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post #1276 of 1844 Old 07-28-2014, 06:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Bill if possible keep it vertical. Even 12" above ear height is more than fine. No problem.

I'm still not understanding what you're asking about splitting them up or what ever.
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post #1277 of 1844 Old 07-29-2014, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Bill if possible keep it vertical. Even 12" above ear height is more than fine. No problem.

I'm still not understanding what you're asking about splitting them up or what ever.
So there will be a better response seat to seatwith all 3 speakers vertical. Good that is what I orderded

I didn't edit out all the crap that confused you before. I will not be splinting anything I might have them upside down if you think it is better for tweeter to be closer to MLP then mids.


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post #1278 of 1844 Old 07-29-2014, 01:32 PM
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Does this layout look fine?

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post #1279 of 1844 Old 07-29-2014, 02:14 PM - Thread Starter
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I usually don't get to worked up about inductor placement, but in this case some of the inductors look a little close. Particularly the 1mH and that little copper air coil. A big one next to a little one could really throw the little one off in value in a negative way.
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post #1280 of 1844 Old 07-29-2014, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
I usually don't get to worked up about inductor placement, but in this case some of the inductors look a little close. Particularly the 1mH and that little copper air coil. A big one next to a little one could really throw the little one off in value in a negative way.
Better?

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post #1281 of 1844 Old 07-29-2014, 02:33 PM
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What size s that board? Maybe add more width? Dunno...

Tux's Elusive 1099 (L/C/R)---Ascend CBM-170 SE (surrounds 9.2)---SVS PB 12 Plus---SVS PC 12 Plus---AVR Denon 4311CI---TV Vizio 70---Unraid 32TB Network Storage---Gateway SX 2370 HTPC with 120 SSD
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post #1282 of 1844 Old 07-29-2014, 02:40 PM
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What size s that board? Maybe add more width? Dunno...
9.5in
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post #1283 of 1844 Old 07-29-2014, 02:44 PM
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Hey Ryan,
Is it possible to number the parts in this picture and give us a couple paragraph explanation of what's going on ? Like midrange going here and this part does this to signal.

I don't know if its possible, just want to learn a bit more.
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post #1284 of 1844 Old 07-29-2014, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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niktak, that's better. The 2 and 0.33 are still a little close if you wanna be picky, though if you're tight on space that's workable.

Chaluga, I can try and do something like that. Right now I'm trying to post and work at the same time.
chalugadp likes this.
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post #1285 of 1844 Old 07-29-2014, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
niktak, that's better. The 2 and 0.33 are still a little close if you wanna be picky, though if you're tight on space that's workable.

Chaluga, I can try and do something like that. Right now I'm trying to post and work at the same time.
No rush. I will bring photo into word,number the parts, and repost it here so its easier for u.
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post #1286 of 1844 Old 07-29-2014, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
niktak, that's better. The 2 and 0.33 are still a little close if you wanna be picky, though if you're tight on space that's workable.

Chaluga, I can try and do something like that. Right now I'm trying to post and work at the same time.
All right sweet. I'll move those two a little farther apart on the board that's not glued yet and if I can tell a difference I'll redo that part of the first board. I'm guessing that it'll be fine though since the angles of those two should nearly eliminate any unwanted magnetic flux
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post #1287 of 1844 Old 07-29-2014, 03:30 PM
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Here it is

Maybe I'm the only guy who just knows what capacitors and resistors do
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post #1288 of 1844 Old 07-29-2014, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
No rush. I will bring photo into word,number the parts, and repost it here so its easier for u.
Linkage to his build Aug's 1099 Build

Tux's Elusive 1099 (L/C/R)---Ascend CBM-170 SE (surrounds 9.2)---SVS PB 12 Plus---SVS PC 12 Plus---AVR Denon 4311CI---TV Vizio 70---Unraid 32TB Network Storage---Gateway SX 2370 HTPC with 120 SSD

Last edited by BCRSS; 07-29-2014 at 07:57 PM.
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post #1289 of 1844 Old 07-29-2014, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCRSS View Post
I found this pic from Augmonts 1099 build helpful http://www.avsforum.com/photopost/da...uxsXO1099.jpeg

Linkage to his build Aug's 1099 Build
Crap...i forgot it was still up there. Don't use...........it's not correct. I'm taking it down right now.

BCRSS - please edit your post and remove the pic. I don't want others using XO with errors. thx.

Last edited by Augmont; 07-29-2014 at 04:48 PM.
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post #1290 of 1844 Old 07-29-2014, 04:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Here it is

Maybe I'm the only guy who just knows what capacitors and resistors do
Hopefully I get this all right. I can't make out all the parts, so if I screw up something sorry about that. And these aren't gonna be in numerical order, because it'll make more sense this way.

2 & 6 go together on the woofer section. They're very simple. Just a 2 pole 12db/oct filter that starts around 400hz. The capacitor can be sized bigger or smaller to vary the slope a little bit. The inductor sets where the woofer starts to roll off.

5 & 11 Are tweeter resistors. The first one going into the tweeter circuit attenuates the very high frequencies and the last parallel resistor brings the whole tweeter level up or down. The las parallel resistor also flattens the impedance that the rest of the circuit reacts with.

10 & 14 make up the tweeter filter. Just like the woofer, this is a two pole 12db/oct filter. But in this case the cap sets where the roll off begins and the inductor can vary the shape/steepness. In this case, it starts to roll off around 3khz if I recall correctly and the inductor kicks in around 2000hz to shape the response a bit. XO at 1750hz. The numbers aren't exact. I'm going by memory. And this filter is also used to attenuate a peak in the response, so it's all a little confusing.

Now the mid section.

13 This big cap is a first order high pass filter starting around 1khz reaching -6db at the woofer XO around 650hz iirc. This is a fairly significant component.

8 & 12 These are the first parts of the low pass filter. Mids have a high pass and a low pass filter (commonly called bandpass filter). The inductor is the first pole in a 3rd order low pass filter and the cap is placed in parallel with this inductor. The cap steepens the filter and puts a notch in the response right around 7khz iirc. Basically, I was trying to shut the mids up very quickly above 2khz because side by side mids have major issues. So I need to slam them into shape, and these parts are the first of that.

7 & 9 are the second pole in the low pass filter. The cap is actually, the 1ohm resistor just damps its effect. It was size to provide a bit of boost right around 1.2khz where the mids had a hard time keeping up with the woofers and tweeter.

3 is the third and final pole in the low pass filter. Nothing special about it, except it was sized to star reacting right around the XO point iirc. I dunno. It was sized to get the shape and phase where I needed it.

Last

1 &4 Perhaps the most interesting part of this XO actually. Single order high pass filters never work because as soon as you get to the Fs spike in the impedance, the filter is useless and your power handling goes to hell right at that point. That's about 150hz in this case. So you can either make it second order, or nuke that Fs spike with an LCR notch. Second order just wasn't working for me and an LCR is quite expensive because it uses an even bigger inductor and a huge cap. So what I did was just use this inductor and resistor to manipulate the mid's impedance. It makes for something like a 9db/oct roll off actually instead of a true 6db/oct. But that gave perfect summation (phase) and good power handling. And was very cost effective.


There you have it. All my secrets. Hopefully it made sense.

Last edited by tuxedocivic; 07-30-2014 at 05:09 PM.
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