A 3 way 99db multi configurable SEOS design - Page 57 - AVS Forum
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post #1681 of 1694 Old Yesterday, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by BCRSS View Post
Take a look at dtsdigs crossover to help you figure it out. The Dtsdig Curvy-Cab Tux-1099 build!! Hope dtsdig doesn't mind me linking to his great example.
Feel free to link it wherever, I like that several folks have been using it!
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post #1682 of 1694 Old Yesterday, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
Oh man I'm struggling, here is my XO set, but I'm concerned about having them all in the right way


I'm also petrified of sorting out this mess. I tried soldering using 12 awg and it was impossible for a noob like me. Also the copper coil wires I'm concerned I've got them ready in the wrong way

For the two air coils that you're concerned about, you should have the lead that exits on the inside of the coil's circle go straight down through your board there and then another hole on the outside of the coil for the outside lead to go through. In other words, you don't need to have that inside lead bent back underneath the coil so that it's on the outside of the coil too. Hope this makes sense and doesn't confuse more!
The layout looks great. Also, like mtg90 said, just pick up some stranded 18 gauge wire for the crossovers. It's easy to work with and there is absolutely no benefit of using something larger here. You can do it!
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post #1683 of 1694 Old Yesterday, 10:09 AM
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I am such an idiot, I picked up the solid care 18 gauge and have been using that, thinking how tough it was! I have followed the mtg layout but now need to know what goes into the terminal block, so I presume I follow Robs diagram?
Is there any reason people have split the terminal blocks up, as I could only get the 8 block version ....
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post #1684 of 1694 Old Yesterday, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
I am such an idiot, I picked up the solid care 18 gauge and have been using that, thinking how tough it was! I have followed the mtg layout but now need to know what goes into the terminal block, so I presume I follow Robs diagram?
Is there any reason people have split the terminal blocks up, as I could only get the 8 block version ....
Changing over to stranded wire will make your life a lot easier.

I don't think there is any right way to do the terminal blocks. Whatever works best for your layout, go for it. I think the main reason people split them up is for convenience of placement, and to make it easier to know what wires belong to which component. I think all 3 of my XO's have different terminal strip configurations, based on what I was able to get at the store.
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post #1685 of 1694 Old Yesterday, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
I am such an idiot, I picked up the solid care 18 gauge and have been using that, thinking how tough it was! I have followed the mtg layout but now need to know what goes into the terminal block, so I presume I follow Robs diagram?
Is there any reason people have split the terminal blocks up, as I could only get the 8 block version ....
Mine uses a 2 terminal input block and a 6 terminal output block. It's just whatever is convenient for you. The solid wire will work fine but you just have to be cautious about breaking the wire and not knowing it. Another member had a whole ordeal with trying to use solid.
And that's my layout, btw.
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post #1686 of 1694 Old Yesterday, 11:14 AM
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dtsdig, your layout has proved very useful but my soldering and connection skills are a disgrace


...anyway, I don't want to take over this informative thread with my issues so if possible can some of you that have been helping out go over to my thread, where I can bother you until my hearts content
7 DIY Speakers and 2 DIY Subs HELLLLLLLLP
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post #1687 of 1694 Old Yesterday, 11:20 AM
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Woow great job! Tux
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post #1688 of 1694 Old Yesterday, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
Feel free to link it wherever, I like that several folks have been using it!
I used it. It was great!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
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post #1689 of 1694 Old Yesterday, 05:07 PM
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post #1690 of 1694 Old Yesterday, 06:03 PM
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A few days ago I got curious about what the levels audyssey set my speakers to to get them level matched and I noticed something odd. My left 1099 is set at -11dB and my right one is at -6dB. Even when they're level matched the test tone my receiver plays sounds different between the two speakers (which may be due to the room). To try and figure out why, I played various test tones around the two crossover frequencies and I noticed that the mids on the left one were playing much lower than 700Hz (The upper crossover between the mids and CD seems to be fine, although it's a little harder to tell than the lower crossover point). Which part of the crossover is the low pass for the mids (I'm assuming that's the culprit)? Also, if that's the only problem would that account for the full 5dB difference?
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post #1691 of 1694 Old Yesterday, 07:12 PM
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I bet you it's all placement-dependent. I'd try first rerunning the auto calibration program. If the results are the same, swap the speakers and run it again.
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post #1692 of 1694 Old Yesterday, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niktak11 View Post
A few days ago I got curious about what the levels audyssey set my speakers to to get them level matched and I noticed something odd. My left 1099 is set at -11dB and my right one is at -6dB. Even when they're level matched the test tone my receiver plays sounds different between the two speakers (which may be due to the room). To try and figure out why, I played various test tones around the two crossover frequencies and I noticed that the mids on the left one were playing much lower than 700Hz (The upper crossover between the mids and CD seems to be fine, although it's a little harder to tell than the lower crossover point). Which part of the crossover is the low pass for the mids (I'm assuming that's the culprit)? Also, if that's the only problem would that account for the full 5dB difference?
Does your receiver play pink noise for manual level setting? It would be outside of the Audyssey setup. If there's an error in the crossover big enough to cause 5dB difference, it should be easily audible as a change in the tone when switching between those two speakers.

I'm not into "thumbs upping" or "liking". Don't take it personally. Just assume that I found your post helpful. Unless it wasn't.
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post #1693 of 1694 Old Yesterday, 08:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Niktak

The low pass is related to the big 27uF cap in front of the whole network and the 2mH + 2ohm at the end of the network.

It could be a culprit. The high pass does creat some boost right around 1lhz, and that may be where audessay makes its level matching. 1khz is a common place to measure that kind of thing.

Generally I'd check both XOers entirely. These kinds of mistakes are easy to make.
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post #1694 of 1694 Old Today, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niktak11 View Post
A few days ago I got curious about what the levels audyssey set my speakers to to get them level matched and I noticed something odd. My left 1099 is set at -11dB and my right one is at -6dB. Even when they're level matched the test tone my receiver plays sounds different between the two speakers (which may be due to the room). To try and figure out why, I played various test tones around the two crossover frequencies and I noticed that the mids on the left one were playing much lower than 700Hz (The upper crossover between the mids and CD seems to be fine, although it's a little harder to tell than the lower crossover point). Which part of the crossover is the low pass for the mids (I'm assuming that's the culprit)? Also, if that's the only problem would that account for the full 5dB difference?
check the polarity of the driver connection's too, that could be the problem as well.
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