DIY Sub for around $2k? - Page 6 - AVS Forum
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post #151 of 158 Old 07-19-2013, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by duc135 View Post

Co-located is a term I've heard and used outside of this forum and not in reference to audio. I work in IT and we use it to refer to two entities using the same site to house their equipment.


I can second this. I work at an ISP, and we use the term to describe the facility that all of the ISP's in the area use to store equipment. It's also referred to as the 'central office', or CO. It doesn't have so much to do with things being right next to each other as much as just being in the same building (same street address). After all, equipment X on the second floor is still co-located with equipment Y, which might be on the third floor.

In that sense, I guess every piece of equipment in any home theater is "co-located".
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post #152 of 158 Old 07-20-2013, 07:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Question on painting the enclosure. Is it better to use high gloss paint or a flat paint with clear enamel top coat? Also, do latex or oil based paints give the best finish?
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post #153 of 158 Old 07-20-2013, 07:52 PM
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If you're an experienced painter, and know how to accomplish all of the necessary prep work, then you can do high gloss... I'm guessing by your questions you're not, so you definitely want to stick with a flat finish. Gloss will make every tiny imperfection glaringly obvious. With flat you will have to be pretty close to see what is going on.

I like using enamel paints. Polyurethane is the best IME, but very expensive, so I just stick with enamel.
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post #154 of 158 Old 07-21-2013, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

If you're an experienced painter, and know how to accomplish all of the necessary prep work, then you can do high gloss... I'm guessing by your questions you're not, so you definitely want to stick with a flat finish. Gloss will make every tiny imperfection glaringly obvious. With flat you will have to be pretty close to see what is going on.

I like using enamel paints. Polyurethane is the best IME, but very expensive, so I just stick with enamel.

Can you give us an idea of what the steps would be to finish the enclosure in a gloss finish? I just always figured that painting it with oil based glossy paint would be just fine, but I would really like to give these new enclosures that I just built for my Dayton UM15's a nice finish, preferably glossy.
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post #155 of 158 Old 07-21-2013, 07:23 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm not an experienced painter but am very patient. I would assume after assembly using a wood filler to cover seams, sand, prime, multiple layers of paint with wet sanding in between?
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post #156 of 158 Old 07-21-2013, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simp1yamazn View Post

I'm not an experienced painter but am very patient. I would assume after assembly using a wood filler to cover seams, sand, prime, multiple layers of paint with wet sanding in between?

You could try it that way. IMO the easiest way is to get the surface perfect at the primer layer. Use a high build auto primer, coat and block sand each coat until the surface is perfect. Apply color, if it's a good coat, apply high gloss clear coat within the "recoat" time. If it isnt then you have to block it out and re apply the color until it's good enough for clear. You wouldnt use high gloss color for this process.
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post #157 of 158 Old 07-21-2013, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

To me co-located means occupying the same space. Einstein had problems with that concept, unless one brings other dimensions into play. All I'm saying is that there is no such word as co-located in the lexicon of audio engineering. When placed next to each other the usual term used is clustered.

Not necessarily- the idea could be that they "seem" to occupy the same space, not that they actually do (which is physically impossible).

The same term used in relation to satellites:

"Co-location is the placing of two or more geostationary communications satellites in orbit, in close proximity so that to reception equipment on the ground they 'appear' to occupy a single orbital position."
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post #158 of 158 Old 07-21-2013, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

You could try it that way. IMO the easiest way is to get the surface perfect at the primer layer. Use a high build auto primer, coat and block sand each coat until the surface is perfect. Apply color, if it's a good coat, apply high gloss clear coat within the "recoat" time. If it isnt then you have to block it out and re apply the color until it's good enough for clear. You wouldnt use high gloss color for this process.

Coincidentally someone just posted a build showing the basics of finishing the way I suggested above

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1482639/css-sdx-10-weekend-build
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