Dayton RSS460HO-4 18" build thread, advice and walkthrough for a DIY beginner - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 11 Old 07-24-2013, 04:38 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm planning on purchasing the Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 Reference 18" flatpack kit from Parts Express as soon as it's back in stock. I was originally keen on doing a Stereo Integrity 18" build but it seems the prices have increased and the discounted Dayton kit at $360 shipped now looks to be a better value. The flatpack from DIY Sound Group with the SI 18" cutout also isn't available currently. No big deal, i've read many times that these drivers are neck-to-neck in terms of performance. I don't have any woodworking tools (besides a drill and clamps) so a flatpack build is my only option.

Details on my room and listening preferences…this will be placed in a small bedroom around ~1,000 cubic feet, so a very tiny listening area. The sub will be replacing a Rythmik FV12 in my bedroom's 5.1 HT setup. I actually have no desire to upgrade my Rythmik as it absolutely demolishes in this setting, but I figured I would move the FV12 to my computer desk as I listen to lots of music there. I only have room for a single box, so no plans to expand to multiple subs. My preference is split between movies, games, and music, with a slight favor towards music. I do like to listen loud sometimes.

A few questions...

1. What would be the best route when choosing a power amp for this sub? I'm aiming for value but I also want to extract all of the sub's performance and don't mind springing for a more capable amp for a few more bucks. I hear the Dayton driver can take 500-1,500 watts so i'm thinking a Behringer iNuke NU3000DSP bridged mono at 4ohms will give it sufficient juice while also taking care of EQ. I've also heard great things about the Crown XLS Drivecore amps. Crown seems to get a better rep than Behringer, although the dollar to watts ratio isn't as high. Would an XLS 1500 have the same capability as the iNuke for tuning the sub? In other words, would I still need a miniDSP if I decide to use the Crown amp?

2. Compiling a list of what I need…the woofer and cabinet -- check, power amplifier + DSP -- check, plus 5 pounds of Acousta-Stuf, speaker wire, screws, zip ties, glue, and binding posts. Am I missing something? Is a microphone like a UMIK-1 + REW software necessary to measure and tune the frequency response flat?

3. I'm trying to envision how everything is connected and i'm a little confused about the rear of the iNuke. Do the inputs/outputs accept banana plugs or bare speaker wire? Taking into account that I will be running the amp bridged and I only need to power 1 sub, how exactly do I wire the subwoofer to the amplifier and the amplifier to the receiver?

4. My current Rythmik FV12 is placed near-field and I get very impactful tactile response, which I believe is partially due to the front-port. Will switching to a sealed subwoofer significantly lessen this effect?

This is my first time building a sub and I still have much to learn. I'll be using this thread to detail my progress and to seek further guidance once I have all the parts in my possession. I also plan on digging deeper into other DIY threads to supplement my research.

Any info, links, tips, advice is appreciated!
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post #2 of 11 Old 07-24-2013, 05:41 AM
 
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A mic isn't really needed for just 1 sub, it's not worth the money imo. What I would do is just use some random mic or SPL meter that you have to get a very general idea of what frequencies in your room are too loud or too quiet and just get a general idea where to EQ. You will never get that flat of a response with only 1 sub so it doesn't matter. An inuke nu3000dsp would be perfect. For connections you need to use speakon, so you could just buy a speakon cable from monoprice and put a speakon terminal on the subwoofer, or you could just use speaker wire normally and wire it into a speakon connector for the amp and just normally wire the subwoofer with standard speaker terminals. there's lots of info on wiring speakons on google. A 12" ported vs a 18" sealed will be pretty similar output levels imo, except the 18 will go wayyyyy deeper and louder at low frequencies. You won't lose any punch forsure.
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post #3 of 11 Old 07-24-2013, 08:37 AM
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You can find speakon to banana cables at most pro audio outlets. Speakon at amp, banana at sub. Or do all speakon.

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post #4 of 11 Old 07-24-2013, 07:19 PM
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If you are interested I have a new in box Crown XLS1500. I'll take $325 shipped.
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post #5 of 11 Old 07-24-2013, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scall View Post

If you are interested I have a new in box Crown XLS1500. I'll take $325 shipped.

You can get brand new crown xls 1500 for 288.00 shipped from guitar center.

Getting Started with REW: A Step by Step Guide --> http://www.mediafire.com/view/aolmz2..._101_v3.92.pdf

Mini DSP Tutorial by Neutro --> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-su...g-minidsp.html
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post #6 of 11 Old 07-24-2013, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post

You can get brand new crown xls 1500 for 288.00 shipped from guitar center.

A) That was in poor form.
B) Please show me where I can get a "new" XLS1500 for 288.00

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post #7 of 11 Old 07-24-2013, 09:47 PM
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Whoa... The room is only 1000 cubic feet? That's only about 11 x 11' in size. Putting a 18" sub is not going to help much. The volume of the room will compress the low frequency air waves and really limit the low end of the driver. Sound travels at about 600mph, or about 880 ft/sec (600 (miles)x5280 (feet) / 360(minxsec)). To get a 20Hz wave, you need 880/20 or a 44 ft long room. The room will start compressing the air waves on any frequency below 80Hz.

My room is 25' long, so it will effectively handle about 35Hz before room compression kicks in.

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post #8 of 11 Old 07-24-2013, 10:01 PM
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"Whoa... The room is only 1000 cubic feet? That's only about 11 x 11' in size. Putting a 18" sub is not going to help much. The volume of the room will compress the low frequency air waves and really limit the low end of the driver. Sound travels at about 600mph, or about 880 ft/sec (600 (miles)x5280 (feet) / 360(minxsec)). To get a 20Hz wave, you need 880/20 or a 44 ft long room. The room will start compressing the air waves on any frequency below 80Hz."

unfortunately, this is completely inaccurate.

below 1/2 wavelength, room gain sets in, not compression.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #9 of 11 Old 07-25-2013, 01:23 AM
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To get a 20Hz wave, you need 880/20 or a 44 ft long room.

That's a news eek.gif; but not correct.

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post #10 of 11 Old 07-25-2013, 05:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post

You can get brand new crown xls 1500 for 288.00 shipped from guitar center.

http://m.guitarcenter.com/Item/Default.aspx?itemno=1516455&urx=1

Looks like $399 to me from guitar center.
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post #11 of 11 Old 07-25-2013, 06:02 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon S View Post

Whoa... The room is only 1000 cubic feet? That's only about 11 x 11' in size. Putting a 18" sub is not going to help much. The volume of the room will compress the low frequency air waves and really limit the low end of the driver. Sound travels at about 600mph, or about 880 ft/sec (600 (miles)x5280 (feet) / 360(minxsec)). To get a 20Hz wave, you need 880/20 or a 44 ft long room. The room will start compressing the air waves on any frequency below 80Hz.

My room is 25' long, so it will effectively handle about 35Hz before room compression kicks in.

huh, no.
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