New iNuke NU4 6000 - 4 channel amp - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 04:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Full credit goes to DD (Diamonddelts) from CHT forums for the find. Looks like Behringer is making the inuke6000 with power split into 4 channels now. There are a few places with them in stock and shipping now, and quite a few on ebay:

http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/NU4-6000.aspx
http://www.gearclubdirect.com/behringer-inuke-nu4-6000

•Delivers 4 x 1500 Watts into 2 Ohms, 2 x 3000 Watts into 4 Ohms and weighs less than 12 lbs / 5.5 kg

Spec sheet:
http://www.behringer.com/assets/NU4-6000_WebBrochure.pdf

Should Plenty of power for those of us looking to power L/C/R setups or even Bi-amp the L/R.
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post #2 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 07:53 AM
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That thing looks serious, too bad they don't make it in black....or do they

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post #3 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 08:37 AM
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A dsp version and I would be set. Dsp please!
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post #4 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 09:54 AM
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Just got my Inuke NU 6000, i should have waited a little more. Only 3 weeks ago i was told no scheduled release date yet for this beast in Europe.
One question : in the owner's manual, i did not find any mention about the exact speaker connector needed to get the power to my DIY subs. I found both 2 pole and 4 pole Neutrik/Speakon connectors. Does the speaker terminal on the Inuke take both or is there a difference ?
Sorry for the thread hijack and noob question.
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post #5 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nethien View Post

Just got my Inuke NU 6000, i should have waited a little more. Only 3 weeks ago i was told no scheduled release date yet for this beast in Europe.
One question : in the owner's manual, i did not fond any mention about the exact speaker connector needed to get the power to my DIY subs. I found both 2 pole and 4 pole Neutrik/Speakon connectors. Does the speaker terminal on the Inuke take both or is there a difference ?
Sorry for the thread hijack and noob question.

I use 2 pole speakons on my 6000. You can use either one.
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post #6 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 12:29 PM
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Possible Emotiva competition to the XPA-5? Looks pretty sweet, and a good price too (which will eventually go down a bit through a sale or coupon)
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post #7 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 02:30 PM
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The 6000 has always been crippled in this regard. I guess this amp solves that. (I assume it has internal 4x4 channel matrixing, or at least 2x4.)

First this came out.
http://labgruppen.com/products/fp_plus_series/c/fp_10000q/

Then this.
http://www.crownaudio.com/usa/amplifiers/i-tech4x3500hd.html

Then this.
http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/NU4-6000.aspx

and then!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nu4-12kDSP? eek.gif...
Me likes where this is going.
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post #8 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 03:00 PM
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Looks like a pair of nu3000's in a single chassis.
Quote:
8 Ω per channel 4 x 440 W
4 Ω per channel 4 x 860 W
2 Ω per channel 4 x 1600 W

Not bad for $550
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post #9 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

Looks like a pair of nu3000's in a single chassis.
Not bad for $550

So if I were to get four SI 18s and four flat packs from Erich, all I would need for power is one of these? If that is the case, would it matter if I got the D4 or D2? What would be a better match?
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post #10 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post

So if I were to get four SI 18s and four flat packs from Erich, all I would need for power is one of these? If that is the case, would it matter if I got the D4 or D2? What would be a better match?

Yes, it looks like you should be fine. For true RMS power, you should get 650 WPC x 4 into 4 ohm loads, and 1000 WPC x 4 into 2 ohm loads. Getting power from a standard 20 amp wall outlet looks like it could be an issue...

A 20 amp breaker will barely support the 4 x 650 W, and that is with the amp being the only device on the breaker (you could still blow it with max power though). A 30 amp breaker can not support 1000 W x 4. If you have a 50 amp breaker for your HT, then quad 2 ohm subs should work, other wise the quad 4 ohm setup will work better.
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post #11 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 05:27 PM
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^^ just remember that speaker loads are not purely resistive loads, so they don't pull full current except under extreme instances and the breaker will often let through a little overcurrent for short bursts.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #12 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

Yes, it looks like you should be fine. For true RMS power, you should get 650 WPC x 4 into 4 ohm loads, and 1000 WPC x 4 into 2 ohm loads. Getting power from a standard 20 amp wall outlet looks like it could be an issue...

A 20 amp breaker will barely support the 4 x 650 W, and that is with the amp being the only device on the breaker (you could still blow it with max power though). A 30 amp breaker can not support 1000 W x 4. If you have a 50 amp breaker for your HT, then quad 2 ohm subs should work, other wise the quad 4 ohm setup will work better.

Thanks Jay1, looks like i will go with D4s then.
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post #13 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

^^ just remember that speaker loads are not purely resistive loads, so they don't pull full current except under extreme instances and the breaker will often let through a little overcurrent for short bursts.

True, but a 20 amp breaker only supports 2400 watts right? That's 200 watts less then max continuous power at 4 ohms, and doesn't account for peaks.
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post #14 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

True, but a 20 amp breaker only supports 2400 watts right? That's 200 watts less then max continuous power at 4 ohms, and doesn't account for peaks.

I think you are only supposed to load the circuit with 80% of it's rated maximum in the code. However I suspect this amp will have a 700w rating at the plug, based on my iNuke 3000 DSP having a 350w label. On the other hand, breakers don't trip right at the amperage they are rated for, in order to allow for surges when electric motors start up. You might be able to pull twice the rated current for 30 seconds to a minute before the breaker trips, or 4x the current for 15 seconds or so. Something like a Kill-A-Watt can let you monitor how much current you are actually pulling from the wall, to see if a dedicated circuit is a good idea.
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post #15 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 09:11 PM
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If any of us can run a clone on a 20A breaker, these will be a piece of cake.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #16 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 10:05 PM
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Now if they made an nu5-6000...
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post #17 of 159 Old 07-28-2013, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

If any of us can run a clone on a 20A breaker, these will be a piece of cake.

Just saying, it's something to look at.
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post #18 of 159 Old 07-29-2013, 03:59 AM
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I seriously wish that Behringer would come out with a 4 channel iNuke with Dsp. That would make life much more simple! That way I could use an iNuke as an amp for my LCR's and have built in EQ and possibly be able to use them as an active crossover. For right now, though, I have my eyes set on the new plate amp with dsp from MiniDsp.
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post #19 of 159 Old 07-29-2013, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

^^ just remember that speaker loads are not purely resistive loads, so they don't pull full current except under extreme instances and the breaker will often let through a little overcurrent for short bursts.

True, but a 20 amp breaker only supports 2400 watts right? That's 200 watts less then max continuous power at 4 ohms, and doesn't account for peaks.

Depends if you are playing music or test tones.

Music has a crest factor of at worst 6-8 dB. The standard HT reference setting scheme is based on a crest factor of 20 dB which is presumably reached only for short peaks. 20 dB = 100x peak to average ratio.

Going back to that utter worst case number of 6 dB, that is 4x power suggesting that your 20 amp circuit can actually support 9600 watts of real world music or movies.
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post #20 of 159 Old 07-29-2013, 05:55 AM
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Quick and probably dumb question...



Does the fact that european voltage is ~230-250v (as opposed to the US 110v, IIRC?) make any difference to the 20amp breaker issue?

I've just been pricing up a quad-SI18 build using a nu6000dsp at 2x3000w (c.2x2100wrms) and I'm aware that I currently have just two wall sockets, into which goes two multi-plug sockets that are running the TV, FreeSat box, PB12-Plus/2, BD Player, Onkyo AVR, VCR, cassette player... and on the same ring main (I believe) are plugs for the fishtank pump and heater, microwave, washing machine, fridge, freezer... LoL biggrin.gif
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post #21 of 159 Old 07-29-2013, 06:19 AM
 
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This will be super useful for powering a L, R, C and a subwoofer or L, R, Sub or L, R, 2 subs. I wish they would make it look a little more "plain". I assume this will have ~10 hz rolloff like the other inukes?

I might get this down the road once I build my tempest mains, and then I can add another sub or 2 biggrin.gif
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post #22 of 159 Old 07-29-2013, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnyk View Post


Going back to that utter worst case number of 6 dB, that is 4x power suggesting that your 20 amp circuit can actually support 9600 watts of real world music or movies.

If this is somewhat true, it amazes me how many people go out of their way to upgrade electrical circuitry when it may not be needed.
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post #23 of 159 Old 07-29-2013, 07:24 AM
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This will be perfect to run two FTW-21's. Hopefully the fan is as quiet as Crown XLS. Any fan mods for Behringer iNuke units?

Vinod
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post #24 of 159 Old 07-29-2013, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by vinodk View Post

This will be perfect to run two FTW-21's. Hopefully the fan is as quiet as Crown XLS. Any fan mods for Behringer iNuke units?

The nu6000 would work just as well, and is a bit cheaper. The fans are very, very loud.
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post #25 of 159 Old 07-29-2013, 08:30 AM
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People have done the fan mod on other inukes with good results, but the stock fans are LOUD.
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post #26 of 159 Old 07-29-2013, 09:46 AM
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I'm so buying these. Basically two nu3000's in one 2RU case and at 12lbs a pop? Yup... buying at least three. biggrin.gif

I got an awesome budget multi-sub approach with this one. Buy one and purchase four SI18d4's. Then run them dual's in 4ohm for 3000w or wire coils for a 2ohm load each and put in separate enclosures for quad @ 1,600w each.

My Dual 18" LLT subs 120dB down to 10hz

 

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post #27 of 159 Old 07-29-2013, 12:59 PM
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Sounds like these could be a good option for my LCR and sub. LCR are all 4 ohm so 860w for the LCR and then wire my dual opposed sub in parallel for 1600w at 2 ohms. Any reason this wouldn't be awesome?
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post #28 of 159 Old 07-29-2013, 01:25 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

I'm so buying these. Basically four nu3000's in one 2RU case and at 12lbs a pop? Yup... buying at least three. biggrin.gif

I got an awesome budget multi-sub approach with this one. Buy one and purchase four SI18d4's. Then run them dual's in 4ohm for 3000w or wire coils for a 2ohm load each and put in separate enclosures for quad @ 1,600w each.

it's two nu3000's, not four. It's four 1500W amps technically I think.
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post #29 of 159 Old 07-29-2013, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWagstaff View Post

it's two nu3000's, not four. It's four 1500W amps technically I think.

Erm, right... that's what I meant. biggrin.gif

My Dual 18" LLT subs 120dB down to 10hz

 

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post #30 of 159 Old 07-29-2013, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freniata View Post

If this is somewhat true, it amazes me how many people go out of their way to upgrade electrical circuitry when it may not be needed.

Before I finished my 8 subs I had 2 dedicated lines run, both 20 amps. I thought that would be fine based on advice from the forum but I wish I had gone with 30 at least. I've tripped my breaker 10 times roughly and I want a setup where it never happens.

I have a CV 5000 powering 8 18" SI subs, so that does mean that all subs are on the same line since it's just the one amp powering all of them, so I'm betting I'll have much less of an issue if I someday buy another amp so that I'm running 4 subs off each amp or buy a more efficient amp to run all 8 (new Peavey perhaps?)

Still, it's not a huge deal. The only time I trip the breaker is when doing demo's at insane levels and even then the breaker only goes once or twice at the most after a lot of bass scenes. It has never happened at normal movie viewing/music listening levels (reference and below) and I'm positive it never will.
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