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post #271 of 323 Old 08-24-2014, 02:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey everyone, so I started cutting the veneer into shorter strips and I'm curious if anyone has any tips for something.

The veneer I have is a little wider at one end than it is at the other, ie: it's like 10.75 inches wide on one side and 10.25 wide on the other end.

I'm planning on making them ~10.00 inch wide pieces but I was curious if anyone had any ideas on how to keep the veneer straight so the veneer lines up when matching it?

I was planning to try laying the veneer sheets side by side with a slight bit of overlap and cutting down from there.

I've done a lot of reading but I'm just curious if anyone has any tips from experience?
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post #272 of 323 Old 08-25-2014, 03:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Just seeing if anyone has any ideas?

I'm gonna try some testing tonight and see how that goes as I do have a couple extra pieces.
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post #273 of 323 Old 08-26-2014, 01:07 AM
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Just seeing if anyone has any ideas?

I'm gonna try some testing tonight and see how that goes as I do have a couple extra pieces.

PM chalugadp, he can probably help you out.
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post #274 of 323 Old 08-26-2014, 12:00 PM
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This sub looks excellent, lots of work and love went into it. But what happens when you need 3 more?
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post #275 of 323 Old 08-26-2014, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I prefer to not think about that haha.

I'm also building this in the middle of my apartment so if I needed 3 more down the road hopefully I have a better space available to make it
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post #276 of 323 Old 09-01-2014, 09:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the first 2 rounds of veneer cutting out of the way.

I started with 10 sheets that were 9 feet in length. I trimmed them down with the idea of possibly using a contentious piece to cover the front and top which is why half are slightly long and half are slightly short.

The veneer actually had a pattern like >>>>>===<<<< and the grain on each side is surprisingly different. I didn't really like any possible pattern so I probably won't do that.

I then trimmed down the pieces and marked them for the front/side the pieces on the right are gonna be the front/sides and the piece in the middle will probably be the top. The rest I kept oversized so they could be used for either. I'm not super concerned about the bottom or back.

Some tips for cutting:
1). Be careful when ending the cut or you may get a lot of tear out.
2). Before actually cutting the veneer make sure you align them. The veneer patterns are slightly shifted from piece to piece (in my case it was like 1/2"-1", so if you cut multiple pieces based on the top one you would have a slightly slopping pattern when you matched then
3). I used a two cherries veneer saw and I would say the limit is cutting 3 pieces at a time. I cut 4 a few times but it certainly wasn't a smooth process. Two is a easy and I can't see any issues doing one at a time.

I have a decent amount of scrap so I'm gonna try some tests with joining/gluing up larger pieces.

I stumbled across this video:
which I think is an ingenious way to clean up the edges so I got a couple pieces cut to act as the straight edge and I'm gonna give that a shot.

Still trying to figure out the new upload system...I prefer the old one :\
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post #277 of 323 Old 10-08-2014, 08:58 PM - Thread Starter
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First attempt at joining some veneer and gluing it up and it went...not great.

I still haven't figured out a great way to hold the veneer when trying to straighten the edge so after my first attempt I haven't gotten a great edge.

That said, even though the edge wasn't that great, it was actually pretty bad but I wanted to try and see how it went, I think you can get by with a lot more of a gap between pieces than I would have thought.

Got them jointed and tried gluing them up layered like this: mdf substrate, veneer, wax paper sheet, mdf, cauls.






However, when I took it out where the the grain was prominent it bubbled:


Looking online this seems like it can be caused by a couple things
1). Not enough pressure - I hope it isn't this or I'm screwed when I go to glue up the final piece
2). Too much glue - I don't think I used too much
3). Too long a clamp time - I left it clamped for like an hour and 5-10 minutes and the clamp time should be 45-60 minutes with 60 apparently being a kind of hard cap so I'm hoping this is the issue

Gonna try again and hopefully next time it goes better hah
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post #278 of 323 Old 10-08-2014, 10:10 PM
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Is that paper backed veneer or just straight veneer?
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post #279 of 323 Old 10-08-2014, 10:48 PM - Thread Starter
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1/42 raw veneer
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post #280 of 323 Old 10-08-2014, 11:02 PM
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1/42 raw veneer
Yup bitcch to work with. Unless you have vaccuum its really hard.
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post #281 of 323 Old 10-09-2014, 11:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Come on now, that's not what I want to hear :P

I'm gonna give it another test and hopefully it doesn't get any worse.

If I can't figure out a way to smooth it out I'm kinda screwed
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post #282 of 323 Old 10-09-2014, 11:11 AM
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Come on now, that's not what I want to hear :P

I'm gonna give it another test and hopefully it doesn't get any worse.

If I can't figure out a way to smooth it out I'm kinda screwed
I don't have passinginterest level skills so I would need good equipment . [emoji41][emoji48][emoji344][emoji16]
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post #283 of 323 Old 10-12-2014, 07:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Man I hate finishing hah.

So, I've decided to throw out the "sanding against a flat-edge" strategy because I couldn't get good results.

If I'm careful with using the veneer saw I can get a nice straight edge. I just need to make sure I'm careful since if I pull too hard it can rip and that can pull veneer from under my straight edge.

Anyway, I have another set clamped as we speak so we'll see how that goes. I tried using a bit less glue and clamped down significantly more on the clamps...but I think my cauls just suck. There is a gap in the middle that I can slide a piece of paper under which isn't great.

We'll see how it goes.
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post #284 of 323 Old 10-12-2014, 10:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Annnnnd it went so bad it's pretty much a throwaway test. There was enough pressure that the boards slightly curved a bit so the platen wasn't even remotely flush against the piece I was trying to veneer against.

The only salvation, which I just wanted to test to see if it would work, was I was able to use my iron after quite possibly the worst veneer job to at least flatten everything out. Unfortunately, I did cause the veneer to crack in a few places
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post #285 of 323 Old 10-18-2014, 06:11 PM - Thread Starter
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So, doing a bit of practicing I'm starting to get better at this...which is nice hah.

I tried a trick in case I need to use the iron on the final piece to fill in the cracks by putting some glue in the track and sanding the area and it does a great job of hiding any cracks:



I've also gotten better at getting the edges straight after cutting. I took a big sheet of MDF I have and set up a grid on it so I can square up the pieces (which aren't square).

The biggest tip I can give for cutting is taping a piece of sandpaper to the bottom of your straight edge. I was trying to use clamps before and the veneer would still slide around but after adding the sandpaper it holds it in place with a lot less force and my cuts have been a lot more consistent.


I also tried using the other veneer tape I had which is water activated. It's a lot more involved since you need to tape up the backside, flip it over, wet the tape, apply it then wait for it to dry and clamp up.


The results came out pretty good although I'm not really convinced there is a difference between the water activated and non water activated stuff:


Clamping up another test piece which hopefully goes better. This time I decided to actually put the cauls on both sides of the platens (like you should do) and so far it looks a bit better clamped up:
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post #286 of 323 Old 10-18-2014, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Yaaaaaaaaaa, finally got one that didn't come out like **** haha.

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post #287 of 323 Old 11-01-2014, 01:28 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm planning on finishing up the construction on the box this weekend. I haven't actually secured the back and top piece in case I needed to change anything, but I gotta finish up the ports first.

Do you think it's critical to bond the ports using pvc glue? They are really snug as is so I'm not sure much air is sneaking out but I know bonding them nothing will sneak out. My only concern is if I don't get the joint right it may screw up the alignment.

Edit: I could also just use some silicone sealant to seal any joints. I don't see the pvc coming apart any time soon

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post #288 of 323 Old 11-01-2014, 05:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Did enough practice pieces and I am just gonna use the abs cement. I'll post some pics and any advice I can give when it's all set.

First tube went well
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post #289 of 323 Old 11-01-2014, 06:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Got everything done and they are drying right now. I think it went pretty well. I used Oatey 30999 abs cement.

Couple tips if anyone is interested.

1). Make sure you mark which ends of connections go to other connections.
2). If the orientation of the pipe is critical make sure you make which section of the pipe should line up with the next section. I had to do this to since I'm crazy I decided to have all of the wording that is etched into the pvc on the outside so you can't see if it if you look in the front of the box...not like you could anyway.
3). Application can be messy so make sure you have something underneath where you are applying the stuff.
4). Apply cement to the INSIDE piece first. This way, you can put the cement on one fitting and place it down while you put cement on the other piece.
5). Press in the fitting entirely and then turn it a quarter turn. Pressing it in until it seats is very important as once you twist it there is no way you are moving it very far after that.
6). Make sure you hold the joint together for 30 seconds or so. If you just seat it and twist it a bit and let it go the pipe might get pushed out a bit. This happened to me a little bit but wasn't really an issue.

Here are the pieces marked up:


After joining everything together



I'm just waiting for everything to fully cure
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post #290 of 323 Old 11-05-2014, 09:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Small update, turns out in one of the port tubes I didn't get a complete seat one on of the connections so it's at a pretty obnoxious angle so I gotta remake one of the tubes. At least it only happened on the first tube I tried.

I'm gonna take care of that tomorrow and I'm planning on gluing the rest up over the weekend
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post #291 of 323 Old 11-09-2014, 09:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the replacement port made and glued up and finished up all the ports tonight. You can move them around but you can't take them out again hah.

I put some cardboard in the bottom and used a brush to apply the abs cement:


And after doing all 4. The fronts still aren't glued up since I need them off for veneering.




After I had those done I glued up the back panel:


While I was cutting up the ports again I tried out the flush cut trim bit on the pieces of veneer I had and it worked without issues. Even the piece I veneered that had like 2 inches of extra over the edge didn't cause any trouble:
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post #292 of 323 Old 11-10-2014, 11:08 PM
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Looking good.

Working around veneer can be stressful. And your tube ports and alignment are making a slot port look cheap and easy. Cheap and easy is not always a good thing

The brace work is artful!
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post #293 of 323 Old 11-16-2014, 06:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Since the back was attached I got to trimming up the dowel rod a bit since it overlapped just a bit with the terminal in the back. I recessed it 7/8" but as I was writing this I realized I recessed it 7/8" from the inside of the back piece and not from the outside of it so I took off like 3/4" more than I needed to...oh well, can't win 'em all.



I also managed to get the top on as well:



You may notice that large board in the upper right...that was supposed to go on top of the top piece as a caul to spread the load and protect the top. That's also why there are a bunch of blocks taped up around the top.

Laying down the glue took longer than I would have liked so I rushed a bit and forgot to put it on...whoops. It looks like it ended up ok.

One thing that I couldn't quite figure out is the top panel and the front panel don't completely line up along the top and I'm not sure which one is the issue. I was gonna try and push up the top middle from the inside and just get them flush but by the time I got around to adjusting those clamps the glue had pretty much settled.

It's nothing too crazy...probably 1/16th to 1/32nd difference but it's just gonna add a bit more work.

After this I just gotta add the top angled brace and construction is complete (whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat)
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post #294 of 323 Old 11-21-2014, 10:04 PM - Thread Starter
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And with that, construction is done! Woooooooooooo!
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post #295 of 323 Old 11-21-2014, 10:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Thankfully I don't have much work to do before I can start veneering.

The only thing I'm not quite sure how I'm gonna handle is the sides/top/bottom is a little less than 1/16th longer than the front pieces:






I haven't decided if I'm gonna add some wood filter to the front to even it out or try and sand the back part of the bottom to line up.

I think I might use my flush trim bit router to match as much of the bottom to the front as I can and then sand it from there to smooth it out
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post #296 of 323 Old 11-30-2014, 08:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Spent some time this weekend cleaning up and aligning all of the edges.

The bottom had a decent sized gap between the front panel and the other pieces so I decided to use the flush trim router to match a larger section of the bottom piece with the front panel and sanded it smooth so there was a bit of a transition but it wasn't that sharp. It turned out pretty well:



Pretty much unnoticeable...and it's the bottom anyway.

You may notice I accidentally took a chunk out of the front panel when trying to route it so I gotta fill that in

I also filled in any gaps or dents in the panels since there are a handful. I used the same trick for filling cracks in the veneer: apply some glue to the area and sand over it. It does a great job of filling small nicks and dings.



I still gotta fill the bigger chunk on the back panel but I'm gonna try and do that tomorrow.

I'm hoping to start veneering this weekend (which might be pushing it) but should be starting by next weekend.

I also tried to pick up the paint over the weekend but my local SW store doesn't have it so I gotta call the bigger branch in the area.

I'm planning on going with Opex production lacquers since I believe Klipsch uses Valspar/Opex paints which I can get through SW (I have no idea how that relationship works though)
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post #297 of 323 Old 12-02-2014, 03:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey, I feel like I'm mostly talking to myself in here these days but I've kinda hit a really bad roadblock and was looking for some advice.

Checking out the local sherwin williams paint store that particular one pointed me to a production finish store and they told me they can't get the Opex paints because they aren't VOC compliant (thanks nanny state!). They said they wouldn't even sell me any lacquer paints because I wasn't a licensed painting operation....

Anyone have any ideas where I might be able to source this stuff from?
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post #298 of 323 Old 12-02-2014, 04:26 PM
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The views go up every time you post. So people do check in on your progress.Not always something to say.

Are you able to have someone from out of state order it for you? You couldalso try calling a local contractor that is able to get it, tell him your storyand see if they will help you out.

I am waiting for you to get it all buttoned up and post up some charts fromthe testing when complete.
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post #299 of 323 Old 12-02-2014, 05:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Those two suggestions are actually my next two steps hah

Thanks. I'll have to give them a shot and see how it goes.
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post #300 of 323 Old 12-02-2014, 06:46 PM
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We're watching bro

You guys are crazy....
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