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post #91 of 276 Old 10-13-2013, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Updated design with the spline Steve and grave suggested. It's 3" deep and should fit without a problem.



I could also combine that with some pieces connecting the front and back. Due to the required port clearance they are only 1.5-2 inches away from the sides of the box, so I'm not sure how much they would add:
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post #92 of 276 Old 10-13-2013, 01:38 PM
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Just read the entire thread. Very nice build.

Use wheels for the feet. Lol.

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post #93 of 276 Old 10-13-2013, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. I thought about it for a bit but since it's not going to move much feet should be fine.

I am building it on a dolly so I can move it around to make assembly a bit easier.
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post #94 of 276 Old 10-13-2013, 10:52 PM
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Looks great! Top braces are fine, (if you go with them put them edge up and same bottom braces) just like the back, but without them nothing is missed. cool.gif

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post #95 of 276 Old 10-14-2013, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by hotsho111 View Post

I could also combine that with some pieces connecting the front and back. Due to the required port clearance they are only 1.5-2 inches away from the sides of the box, so I'm not sure how much they would add:

Too close to the edge to do any good.
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post #96 of 276 Old 10-14-2013, 07:58 AM
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Too close to the edge to do any good.
True, and the spline braces on the back are almost a waste of wood, as they barely stiffen it. Splines are better than nothing, where you can't use anything else, but have about a quarter the effectiveness as panel to panel.

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post #97 of 276 Old 10-14-2013, 08:45 AM
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Splines are better than nothing, where you can't use anything else, but have about a quarter the effectiveness as panel to panel.

I believe that’s the fix that the OP is in, do you have a better suggestion? one that can be used in the future when a guy comes across this issue.

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post #98 of 276 Old 10-14-2013, 09:21 AM
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You could take one of the top braces (discard the other) and put it on edge with cutting it to size to fit in-between the braces and run it down the top middle and bottom middle from baffle to back. It would be nice to get one in the middle back though.

EDIT> For practical purposes two braces like this would give you much more surface aria and do the trick. You would need to slot one of them so you could put them in as a cross. We are again talking about taking up more space so you might elect to router out some material. This worked on one of my projects quite well though.


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post #99 of 276 Old 10-14-2013, 07:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Ya, Bill, I know it's not the best. I actually had a bracing idea similar to this a while ago but threw it out due to the poor bracing/material ratio.

I'd love to do something better, but I don't think I really have many options at this point. The ports being in the middle of the box doesn't help with the bracing.

Steve/Grave here is an updated picture of what I think both of you are talking about. This keeps the 3" bracing in the back but adds some rails connecting it to the front. I removed the front piece and the upper right port to hopefully make it clear. Ignore the stuff in the background, that's some older (more crazy) bracing ideas I had.


I think I could design some proper bracing that connects the back panel to the back bracing and the front panel to the front bracing. Would that work without adding anything to the middle section?? Is the main issue something needs to run completely from the front to the back?
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post #100 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 12:59 AM
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Steve/Grave here is an updated picture of what I think both of you are talking about. This keeps the 3" bracing in the back but adds some rails connecting it to the front. I removed the front piece and the upper right port to hopefully make it clear. Ignore the stuff in the background, that's some older (more crazy) bracing ideas I had.

Yes that is what I was trying to convey except I would go 4-5” on the back on edge. Your pervious pic relates that. If you were to go that route, what I would suggest is slotting the back braces so they lock into each other. It would help add riggety to your back bracing. Although we talked about it, the side and top rail really wouldn’t add any integrity to the back brace itself, I brought it up more as to suffice. It would add more integrity to the other panels, but you really don’t need it since it’s been addressed with the 6 point bracing.
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I think I could design some proper bracing that connects the back panel to the back bracing and the front panel to the front bracing. Would that work without adding anything to the middle section?? Is the main issue something needs to run completely from the front to the back?

Yes create a simple load bearing brace back to front. You can go with something as simple as just to address the middle of your back brace and save internal volume (make it beefy enough though) or go more aggressive. You will be backing out the side, top and bottom rail I presume, so that’ll help free up a little internal volume. Whatever you do come up with, it does have to go front to back for it to be optimal or be possibly of any use. This is your assignment hotsho, if you should decide to accept Hint.. Y

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post #101 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 06:37 AM
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Your left, right, top and bottom are all braced perfectly so those extra strips are not adding anything to those panels. They don't add anything to the back panel because they only connect at the corner.

In order to connect the back panel to anything useful you must do it at about the 1/3 point of the panel. It then needs to connect to the front somehow. The hash shaped braces are not rigid in the front to back dimension so you can't connect to one of them and call it good.

Something along these lines is as good as it gets without tying into the front panel. The hash braces would connect right at the elbow of those arms.


You will need one vertical too. I didn't draw all that in. I'm not even sure the arms, after they connect to the side walls, are adding anything to the design.


There is one other way you could do this. It will take me a minute to get it drawn.
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post #102 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 07:30 AM
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Ok, something like this with 1" broom handle and angled pieces of mdf between the last hash brace and the baffle to clear the driver.

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post #103 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 07:51 AM
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this is bracing gone wild. eek.gif

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post #104 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

this is bracing gone wild. eek.gif

LOL Someone needs to write a book.. One hundred and one ways to brace your subwoofer . We want to be sure it’s the right way though. So far they all have their weaknesses except to say I like the first one nograv posted which pertains to the pic I posted. For practical purposes it would work just fine if the OP elects. That beeing that.. wink.gif

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post #105 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 08:37 AM
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Braced like a bird of prey!


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post #106 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 08:48 AM
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Braced like a bird of prey!

biggrin.gif You godda be youger than me smile.gif


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post #107 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 09:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, something like this with 1" broom handle and angled pieces of mdf between the last hash brace and the baffle to clear the driver.


I wish I could do that but the ports are in the way in the center (since I need to leave clearance).

I have an idea, no idea how well it would work, but I'll try and sketch it up later today.

It's gonna kinda involve bracing around the center ports...
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post #108 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 09:38 AM
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I wish I could do that but the ports are in the way in the center (since I need to leave clearance).

I don't believe that a piece of broom handle next to each port flare will restrict the airflow by any discernible amount. I left out most of your # bracing because it's a pain to draw. This should make it more clear.

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post #109 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by nograveconcern View Post

I don't believe that a piece of broom handle next to each port flare will restrict the airflow by any discernible amount. I left out most of your # bracing because it's a pain to draw. This should make it more clear.


Looking good.. A question I would have is weather the broom handle bracing would be better than a rake handle bracing? That might take some physics to determine, and of course there is always the shovel handle bracing to consider in the mix. wink.gif

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post #110 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 01:06 PM
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Yes, good point. More testing of handle dynamics and resonation coefficients is definitely required. My money is on tamper handles though.
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post #111 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 02:25 PM - Thread Starter
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How thick do you recommend for the dowels, 1 inch still?

The only concern I have adding them is if it does have a negative effect I can't really go back.

I'll sketch someting up tonight.
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post #112 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 03:41 PM
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How thick do you recommend for the dowels, 1 inch still?

The only concern I have adding them is if it does have a negative effect I can't really go back.

I'll sketch someting up tonight.

Yeah, broom handle is significantly cheaper than dowels. They come in 2 sizes at my local HD. The skinny ones have a metal threaded portion on the end and the fatter ones are tapered at the end. The skinnies measure .945". I keep several on hand for box building and a tamper handle for braining zombies...you know, just in case. biggrin.gif

Ok, enough dowel measuring. eek.gif
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post #113 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 03:45 PM
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There will be no negative effect with the dowels or any of the other bracing. Use 1" or 3/4". I still say everyone is blowing this WAY out of proportion. Although your braces may be lacking a bit, it's not as if your box will be junk.

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post #114 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 03:56 PM
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+1

Far from junk for sure! cool.gif
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post #115 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 04:15 PM
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Yeah, broom handle is significantly cheaper than dowels. They come in 2 sizes at my local HD. The skinny ones have a metal threaded portion on the end and the fatter ones are tapered at the end. The skinnies measure .945". I keep several on hand for box building and a tamper handle for braining zombies...you know, just in case. biggrin.gif

Ok, enough dowel measuring. eek.gif

OK, that cracked me up:)

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post #116 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 05:10 PM
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I still say everyone is blowing this WAY out of proportion. Although your braces may be lacking a bit, it's not as if your box will be junk

Aint that the truth rolleyes.gif uh box with four holes in it biggrin.gif although important.

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post #117 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
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I still say everyone is blowing this WAY out of proportion. Although your braces may be lacking a bit, it's not as if your box will be junk.

Haha thanks. The bracing thread I made a few months ago got the green light from everyone :\

I was wondering, what happens in an under-braced box?

Also, some design updates using some of everyone's ideas. Dowels are 1 inch diameter and the front panel bracing is 2 inches tall


Directly from the front so you can see the spacing between the dowels and ports. Not sure how well you can see that number, but it says 1-11/32
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post #118 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 08:07 PM
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Dude it's a ported box. Your bracing is fine.............

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post #119 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 09:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Despite all the crap going on, wanted to share some minor progress. Did the final port dry fit and it looks good. Everything's secured down with the loop clamps and blocks and it all lines up.


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post #120 of 276 Old 10-15-2013, 11:18 PM
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Looking good! If you were to go with your last bracing option, the only thing I would add to it is a 3/4 thick MDF 4” disk between your doweling and the back and call it good. Your baffle is braced, sides, top, back and bottom. Not 6 point on the back but close.

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