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post #181 of 266 Old 11-11-2013, 08:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Quick question on my glue up plans.

I'm planning on gluing everything together except for the top and bottom. The idea being if for some reason I need to change something at this point I'll still have some access to the box. I was gonna clamp the rear and top on and do some basic audio tests. Once that passed I was gonna glue the back and top on.

My plans for gluing were the bottom and one side, gluing the bracing and dowels then gluing the other side. The only reason I had planned this order is the fit is so tight I don't think I'd get much glue in the joints if I did the bottom and sides then glued in the bracing. After that I'll glue up the baffle/front panel and glue that to the box.

Thoughts?

Any other concerns before I start gluing this up?

After that, some roundovers and veneer! Not quite sure how I'm gonna pull off the veneer without getting dog hair on everything haha
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post #182 of 266 Old 11-11-2013, 09:25 PM
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I understand your reasoning. Realistically the only thing you can change that’s going to make a difference is the length of your ports. If it does come to that it would be most helpful. A time or two I waited on the finish process until I tested the project and it never did make it back out to the garage for finishing.

Looking forward to you doing the veneer though. I hope you are able to do pics of the process, I know it can be rather argues though.. it's a busy time.

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post #183 of 266 Old 11-12-2013, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotsho111 View Post

Quick question on my glue up plans.

I'm planning on gluing everything together except for the top and bottom. The idea being if for some reason I need to change something at this point I'll still have some access to the box. I was gonna clamp the rear and top on and do some basic audio tests. Once that passed I was gonna glue the back and top on.

My plans for gluing were the bottom and one side, gluing the bracing and dowels then gluing the other side. The only reason I had planned this order is the fit is so tight I don't think I'd get much glue in the joints if I did the bottom and sides then glued in the bracing. After that I'll glue up the baffle/front panel and glue that to the box.

Thoughts?

Any other concerns before I start gluing this up?

After that, some roundovers and veneer! Not quite sure how I'm gonna pull off the veneer without getting dog hair on everything haha

I don't even dry fit. I just go at it with the glue, clamps, and brad nails. biggrin.gif

The inside the box shot is beautiful. Thanks for all the update photos. I can't wait to see this done!
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post #184 of 266 Old 11-12-2013, 04:19 PM
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Dude this sub box is way overkill....I love it! Awesome attention to details.

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post #185 of 266 Old 11-12-2013, 06:39 PM
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I don't even dry fit. I just go at it with the glue, clamps, and brad nails. biggrin.gif

cool.gif

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post #186 of 266 Old 11-12-2013, 10:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

I understand your reasoning. Realistically the only thing you can change that’s going to make a difference is the length of your ports. If it does come to that it would be most helpful. A time or two I waited on the finish process until I tested the project and it never did make it back out to the garage for finishing.

Ya, I know it won't be much, but at least there will be some options. Mainly I need to make sure I put the ports in *before* I install the back haha

I don't plan on keeping it apart for long. Basically glue up everything I can, clamp those pieces on, stick the speaker in and run some tests to make sure nothing is rattling then gluing the final pieces and starting the veneering. I still gotta do a few tests because I'm thinking of flush mounting, or at least partially recessing, the terminal cup and the port flares on the front.

I'm not looking forward to finishing though...I like building things, I HATE finishing things. When I built my tv stand it took me a 2 days to cut and a half a day to assemble, 4 weeks of prep (working a few hours almost every day) before 24 hours of actual paint time (it was nearly 2 full sheets worth of plywood to paint). I was so dead after that (did all the painting in 2.5 days) I actually had to take a sick day.

I have a timelapse of me painting it too hah.
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post #187 of 266 Old 11-13-2013, 07:09 PM
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Mainly I need to make sure I put the ports in *before* I install the back haha

. I don’t foresee you forgetting anything. wink.gif
Quote:
I still gotta do a few tests because I'm thinking of flush mounting, or at least partially recessing, the terminal cup and the port flares on the front.

I wondered if you thought of that but figured you were planning on the veneer building up your bass to a degree. It would be especially hard to router now though..

Quote:
Quote:
I have a timelapse of me painting it too hah.


I hope not, but you do what you gotta do. smile.gif

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post #188 of 266 Old 11-14-2013, 07:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Well my plan for veneering was to glue on the veneer, cut it as close to the edge as possible and flush trim where necessary.

For the terminal cup I may recess it a bit.

The front ports are a bit weird because I actually need to trim the veneer as well as round over the mdf so the port fronts will fit. In theory the cut out for the port flare needs to be something like 5.25 inches in diameter. I cut them to 4.75 and used a a 5/16th roundover bit so that I could leave a bit more material behind, but the port flares would still fit.

Either way, I'm going to do some veneer tests to see if trying to use a flush trim bit to trim the edges tears it up at all
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post #189 of 266 Old 11-14-2013, 08:03 PM
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Your trim bit ought to work just fine, but what I don’t understand is how are you going to recess (if that’s what you decide to do) now that things are already routerd out?

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post #190 of 266 Old 11-14-2013, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Using a rabbet bit. The width required for each is around a half inch, which my rabbet bit set can handle
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post #191 of 266 Old 11-14-2013, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotsho111 View Post

Using a rabbet bit. The width required for each is around a half inch, which my rabbet bit set can handle

I see, I need to add a few of those to my collection big time. cool.gif

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post #192 of 266 Old 11-14-2013, 08:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Ya, I have the Whiteside 1955 set and it's been great.

I used it to trim the pvc to mate it to the port flares. The pvc has an internal diameter of 3 inches and an external diameter of 3.5 inches. The precision ports have an internal diameter of like 2.9 inches but the outside is only like 3-1/16th inches. There are rings you can get that are used to match the ports to the PP brand tubes (which you can't get in lengths of more than 12 inches or so). I used the flush trim bit with some tape wrapped around the ports to get the rabbet depth exact for a tight fit.

I think I posted some pictures of it on here (looks like post #31 has it). It's also why the ports have blue tape around the ends as well, I still haven't taken it off hah.

The cuts were outrageously clean.

As you'd expect, that makes the end of the pvc ports pretty thin and I dropped one on the trimmed edge and it bent so I had to get a new piece.
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post #193 of 266 Old 11-15-2013, 12:40 AM
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^^^ #31.. I see cool! I have limited experience with ports since I’ve always used sono or PVC with making my own roundovers out of MDF. I don’t know if they help, but I would like to think so. rolleyes.gif lol Now I’m on a PR rant, so no conventional venting. Thanks for the good tip though, that's one I’ll apply that to memory.


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post #194 of 266 Old 11-15-2013, 07:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I had considered it I just think rounded over wood flares look...weird?

I'm going with plastic flares though so what the hell do I know hah.
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post #195 of 266 Old 11-15-2013, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotsho111 View Post

I had considered it I just think rounded over wood flares look...weird?

I'm going with plastic flares though so what the hell do I know hah.

No with a project like yours I wouldn’t even consider anything else than what you’re going with. I’m talking large LLT’s with a single large or possibly two ports. There used to be this port company called precision ports (I think that’s the name) that sold very large flared ports, but the cost was out of this world! I’m talking hundreds of dollars if I remember correctly? They were very aggressively flared nice aluminum ports though. 8-9"s

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post #196 of 266 Old 11-17-2013, 05:06 PM - Thread Starter
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So, doing some testing with the flush mounting today and turns out I need a depth cut that's closer to 9/16th, which I can't currently do.

I have two options, buy a slotting bit that can handle a 9/16th depth cut. With a 9/16th depth cut it would be is cutting it pretty close though. I have the bearings for this already and the bit would just be 15 bucks.

The second option is buying an arbor bit and getting a bearing to cut a 5/8th depth cut. This would be around $20 for both. The benefit of this one is the 5/8th is a good bit larger than I need, but I can use some tape to adjust the depth to get an exact fit.

I'm not really sure what the difference between a slotting bit and an arbor bit is though. They seem to be used for the same thing.


Edit:
So I figured out the difference between the two. The slotting bit pretty much a fixed groove cutting but that you can swap bearings on to adjust the depth. This bit is 18 bucks
The arbor bit is a bit that you can apply a combination of slotting cutters and bearings on to make a deeper cut or a taller cut (or even stepped cuts in a single pass). Since this would require getting the arbor bit ($8) and the slot cutter ($13-$16) it's a bit more, but probably better in the long run

Edit 2:
Looks like the arbor bit requires a 5/16" bearing and the slotting bit uses 3/16th bearings. All of mine are all 3/16th so I'm probably gonna end up going that route as I won't need to buy any more bearings
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post #197 of 266 Old 11-18-2013, 09:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Bah, so I forgot to take into account the fact my hole for the port isn't the normal 5-1/4" cut out. Mine is 4-5/8 with a 5/16" roundover to leave a little more meat behind, so I would need like a 7/8" dado bit, which I don't think exists hah.

So, I think my my best option at this point is to get a top bearing mount flush trim bit and use a pre-cut circle and try and template route it.
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post #198 of 266 Old 11-22-2013, 11:23 PM
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If I get to mad I'm always prepared smile.gif



Any new pics though?

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post #199 of 266 Old 11-23-2013, 01:12 PM - Thread Starter
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No, I haven't done much this week. I've actually been going back and forth this week with whiteside and they are gonna hook me up with a giant slot cutter so I can route the flush mount recess for the terminal cup and ports (for testing, I still haven't decided if I'm gonna do it on the final box).

My local hardware store is having a sale next week so I'm gonna pick up a 2 more clamps and glue up the box over thanksgiving weekend.

All I'm gonna do for the speaker this weekend is mount the inserts for the feet.
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post #200 of 266 Old 11-29-2013, 12:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Picked up the clamps today and time to start gluing.

I had to pick up a drill bit as well since the speaker feet I have use a 1/4-20 insert and all the rest I've used are 8-32 or 10-32. I thought about using the same inserts I had for the test but the hole for the feet is so big that the 10-32 pan head screws I have aren't big enough. I could use a washer but figured it wasn't worth it.

A quick question while I'm gluing it up. I've seen some people go over their glue joints with sealant to try and seal the sub. Is that really necessary?
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post #201 of 266 Old 11-29-2013, 01:13 PM
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Most likely depends on the build.. prob not if built/glued well. I do it for good measure since it’s so easy. I do it with the bracing also. With sealed I like to especially do it though.

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post #202 of 266 Old 11-29-2013, 08:48 PM
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Impressive project, I'm looking forward to your final results. i hold your attention to detail and quality in high regard.
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post #203 of 266 Old 11-30-2013, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
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My attention to detail makes me think I'm a crazy person haha biggrin.gif

Anyway, (not helping myself not look crazy) I cut out the holes for the inserts and of course I made it a two step process: drilling a 23/64th hole about a 1/2" depth then a 1/4" hole the hole way through so you can't see the insert from the outside.

And the hole just big enough to fit the screw in:


I also finally started gluing up the box!!!!!!!!!!

I started by clamping the entire box together and removing the side panel:


During the clamp up I noticed this. I didn't even take that into account but boy, it just baaaaaaarely fits:


Clamps prepped and the surfaces cleaned (of dog hair) and bead laid down:


I had a spare back piece and I cut a little knotch in the corner so I could clean up some of the extra view. Got a cool shot of the inside glue bead line:


All clamped up and waiting for it to dry. There was virtually no squeeze out, which has me slightly concerned, but I did lay down a good amount of glue.


I'm probably going to glue the dowels into the bracing next and glue that up. then the right side. I'll probably glue up the baffle overnight.

Edit: Protip, if you are wiping away excess glue, don't wipe it down on the plastic sheet you laid out because you will then proceed to get it on everything...cause you're working on it
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post #204 of 266 Old 11-30-2013, 04:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Moar gluing and clamping! I glued up the two # braces and the dowels. It was a bit of a process.

I rouded over the holes just a bit to try and get a bit more glue in. It was an extremely tight fit


Basically, what I did was screw in the dowels 3/4" short of their final spot (it was so tight I couldn't just push them through, I had to 'screw' them in with a particular grain direction). Ran some glue around the dowel and finished screwing it through to its final distance (using my empire square to make sure the depth was right). I then cleaned up the glue, rinse and repeat 3 times for the other dowels.

Once I got that done I put glue in the front brace holes and joined them together. I gave them a quick compression with the clamp to make sure they were in all the way then I actually stuck them in the box to make sure the dowels didn't dry out of alignment with the back panel. Added a couple clamps and it's drying now


The bracing (minus the back and front angled pieces) should now be a solid piece. I'm planning on gluing the braces to the bottom and one side, then gluing up the other side.
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post #205 of 266 Old 12-01-2013, 01:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the other side glued up this morning:




This piece went much smoother than the first, which was nice.

Gonna wait for this to dry then gluing up the baffle to the front panel later today
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post #206 of 266 Old 12-01-2013, 05:26 PM
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She's looking good! smile.gif

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post #207 of 266 Old 12-01-2013, 06:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Baffle and front panel gluing up as we speak:

Clamps! The rainbow of colors is actually pretty funny



I went into this with a plan...and it all went to **** once I started laying down the glue haha.

I think the only thing that actually went according to plan was putting the 4 small clamps on the corners
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post #208 of 266 Old 12-01-2013, 06:06 PM
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I hear, the best laid plans....

It never seems to go perfectly as planned. It usually works out in the end though.

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post #209 of 266 Old 12-01-2013, 06:08 PM
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you mist a spot
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post #210 of 266 Old 12-03-2013, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Took the clamps off yesterday and the front piece is really solid now, which is good.

The box is already pretty damn solid with the front back and top missing.

I gotta clean up some glue squeeze out before I can glue it to the box, but getting there.
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