Dayton 15 Titanic MKIII - Any good? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 08-14-2013, 09:54 PM - Thread Starter
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I have been looking at subwoofers for a while. The Rythmic FV15HP and the HSU VTF-15H are very appealing.

With that said, I was looking at craigslist and a local Dayton Audio 15 Titanic MKIII came up for sale. Is this sub any good for custom HT builds?

He doesn't list a price, just "best offer takes it". What is a good price for a used sub?

If I decide to jump on it what should I check on it before I buy it? It is not in a build, just loose. I figured I would check the resistance and but what do you look for visually?

Any advice would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 15 Old 08-14-2013, 10:34 PM
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From what i have read, they are nice, I just built 2 dayton Ultimax 15 sealed subs and they sound great....similar drivers.
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post #3 of 15 Old 08-15-2013, 09:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info ... any advice for inspecting a used driver?
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post #4 of 15 Old 08-15-2013, 01:21 PM
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Push down right in the middle of the cone and see if the voice coil rubs on the magnets, you'll hear/feel a scratching sound if it does. If it makes any noise other than bottoming out the suspension just walk away.
Roll it on it's basket and look to see if it's straight (it's will be nearly impossible to seal if the basket's bent) and just look for general damage. Hopefully he will fire it up and you can hear it.
It's a great driver and used, I'd offer $100 and go to $120 if needed, thats a much as I'd go.
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post #5 of 15 Old 08-15-2013, 01:28 PM
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Rather than rolling it around, bring something with a known straight edge like a steel 12" ruler and run the straight edge along the bottom of the basket where the mounting holes are. Make sure to remove any gaskets if it comes with it. That should be easier and more accurate.
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post #6 of 15 Old 08-15-2013, 04:22 PM
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If you haven't tried rolling the sub on it's basket and magnet, any slight wobble is VERY noticeable..... Not that the straight edge is a bad idea either but sometimes the cone surround is stiff and it's tough to do on the whole basket to make sure its straight. Of course none of these will work if it's still in the box biggrin.gif
Can't use the straight edge a tall surround driver.

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post #7 of 15 Old 08-15-2013, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

If you haven't tried rolling the sub on it's basket and magnet, any slight wobble is VERY noticeable..... Not that the straight edge is a bad idea either but sometimes the cone surround is stiff and it's tough to do on the whole basket to make sure its straight. Of course none of these will work if it's still in the box biggrin.gif
Can't use the straight edge a tall surround driver.

Never tried it, but I'm guessing plush carpet could skew the results. Not saying it's not possible nor that you aren't 100% correct. I'm just giving an alternate and "possibly" easier method. I advised to run the straight edge along the bottom of the basket underneath the mounting holes, not on top. The surround should not interfere with the straight edge there since the surround is on the top of the frame.
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post #8 of 15 Old 08-15-2013, 09:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I asked how long he used it and and what he used it for HT or car. I also asked what he actually wanted to sell it for because I was around $80.

He responded he has had it for 1 month and never hooked it up. He also said he would take $80. I don't think I will get to demo it because he wants to meet in a church parking lot .....

I'm kind of wondering if he wants to mug me eek.gif ? Maybe I'm just paranoid .... kind of a to good to be true thing?
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post #9 of 15 Old 08-16-2013, 07:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok so the more I think about this ... I am wondering if I should just go with an SI 18" instead for the extra $110. If I am going to spend the time/money on building an enclosure I would much prefer getting what I want the first time around.

Would the SI 18 be a big step up from the 15" Titanic MkIII? Also, the SI would be new and have the associated warranty ) assuming thee is one, could not find the info on their website), vs. buying a used driver with an unknown history.

Either way I was planning on an external amp, not a plate amp so I don't expect much price difference on the power end.
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post #10 of 15 Old 08-16-2013, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ozzie Isaac View Post

I have been looking at subwoofers for a while. The Rythmic FV15HP and the HSU VTF-15H are very appealing.

With that said, I was looking at craigslist and a local Dayton Audio 15 Titanic MKIII came up for sale. Is this sub any good for custom HT builds?

He doesn't list a price, just "best offer takes it". What is a good price for a used sub?

If I decide to jump on it what should I check on it before I buy it? It is not in a build, just loose. I figured I would check the resistance and but what do you look for visually?

Any advice would be appreciated.


The Dayton Audio 15 Titanic MKIII TIT400C-4 is no longer being sold by Parts Express.

Its spec sheet can still be found at http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-420

It has been superseded by the Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF with a current net price of about $170.

Its spec sheet can still be found at http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-468

You can compare these two web pages at your leisure.

The most important single spec of a subwoofers of the same cone area is Xmax or linear cone travel.

The Dayton Audio 15 Titanic MKIII TIT400C-4 has Xmax of 20.5 mm

Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF has Xmax of 14 mm

It seems to me that the Dayton Audio 15 Titanic MKIII TIT400C-4 is potentially the better driver. It compares to the Integrity Audio 15" with Xmax of 22 mm and a price of 170 http://stereointegrity.com/index.php?id=60

Of course the big unknown in used equipment is the actual condition of the equipment. If not abused the lifespan of a speaker driver ranges from about 10 years or more for subwoofers with foam surrounds to virtually unlimited for subwoofers with cloth or rubber surrounds.

The above information can be used to choose or design enclosures that will exploit the capabilities of the drivers.

I think that a fair offer for a used driver in good condition would start at a fraction of the price of a comparable new product - running from 1/4 to 3/4 depending on its condition and how earnest you are.
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post #11 of 15 Old 08-16-2013, 10:40 AM
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For comparing with the other Dayton subwoofers, you should probably use a 16mm value for the MkIII xmax. From the MkIV page,

"The Titanic Mk 4 has two additional millimeters of physical xmax (where the Mk III Titanic's listed Xmax is based upon DUMAX measurements, the Mk III's physical Xmax is 16 mm)."

Similarly, the Ultimax 15" is listed at 19mm, but I believe has been Kippel tested at 23mm. The RSS390HF-4 may have 20mm xmax based on one of these other measurement techniques.

The SI HT 18" will give you about 2db over the MkIII at xmax, with about 1200 watts for the SI, 700 watts for the MkIII, in a sealed, 3.5cu. ft. box.
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post #12 of 15 Old 08-16-2013, 08:24 PM - Thread Starter
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What should I power it with? I would prefer a seperate rather than a plate amp, but I could be convinced to go plate. I was thinking EP4000 for future upgrades......

Edit: this forum is causing me problems. I've read a few posts saying the mkiii makes ugly mechanical noises before Xmax and doesn't handle power very well. Now not sure what to do. Ideally I would like an enrich 15" ported flat pack when they are available, but not sure on volume and power to limit chance of bottoming out the driver, but don't want to be disappointed with performance.
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post #13 of 15 Old 08-16-2013, 11:02 PM
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I've built with the MK3 a bunch of times, made 6 subs with it for friends. No mechanical noises I've ever heard, on any of the subs. EP4000 is a great amp for that sub! You may want to do a fan mod since the stock one is pretty loud if you're in the same room.

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post #14 of 15 Old 08-16-2013, 11:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

I've built with the MK3 a bunch of times, made 6 subs with it for friends. No mechanical noises I've ever heard, on any of the subs. EP4000 is a great amp for that sub! You may want to do a fan mod since the stock one is pretty loud if you're in the same room.

Thanks for the info. That makes me feel much better about pursuing this route.

Did you go sealed, ported, or a mixture on your six builds?
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post #15 of 15 Old 08-17-2013, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ozzie Isaac View Post

Thanks for the info. That makes me feel much better about pursuing this route.

Did you go sealed, ported, or a mixture on your six builds?

4 were sealed 3.5 CF boxes and the other 2 in a dual opposed design. I've not built them into a ported box. The 4 are still going strong in my friends HT room, the other dual opposed one was submerged in a flood in the guys basement lol. I had one in my living room sub for about a year until Mark of Mach 5 found an old IXL 15 and gave it to me, I swapped it out for the titanic (has a bit more Xmax and was more sensitive) and used the titanic in a build that runs in a friends shop for the last year or so.
I've always been a fan of the titanic over the 15" HO models, although there was a big thread where people ran sims and of course sad otherwise but had not even used either driver lol. I've used a lot of both and think the titanic is better for HT.
When it gets to it's xmax, it does start to make noise if pushed beyond (not unlike other drivers) but it's nothing that is a deal breaker. You shouldn't be pushing it that far to begin with tongue.gif

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