Active and Passive connections - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 7 Old 08-19-2013, 05:09 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Hindikush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: SE MI
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 12
I'd love to be able to make a decision and stick with It, but I know myself better than that.
The problem I made for myself Is, I want to go passive on my speaker builds but at a later date I may want to
go active. Thinking ahead (for once) I'd like to implement the hardware to make this possible prior to
final speaker mounting.
Attached Is a pic of what I'd like to do, but have a feeling (I'm no EE) what I propose may still act as a filter when run active.
Any thoughts If this may work?
Hindikush is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 Old 08-19-2013, 06:37 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Trepidati0n's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,082
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hindikush View Post

I'd love to be able to make a decision and stick with It, but I know myself better than that.
The problem I made for myself Is, I want to go passive on my speaker builds but at a later date I may want to
go active. Thinking ahead (for once) I'd like to implement the hardware to make this possible prior to
final speaker mounting.
Attached Is a pic of what I'd like to do, but have a feeling (I'm no EE) what I propose may still act as a filter when run active.
Any thoughts If this may work?

It will "probably not" work. The reason being is most of the "passive circuit" is still in parallel with the speaker terminals. Secondarily, the woofer and the tweeter will still be connected via the 10 uF capacitor (unless you run a bi-amp terminal block). A solid amp should be able to overdrive the passive circuit..but probably not your best choice. An external terminal block would do the job...just needs to be sealed VERY well. If you can handle the space,...mounting the crossovers externally in a small box might work as well.

I must be guilty because people say I am guilty because they chose to call me guilty because they refuse to see the truth. Much easier to be part of the mob..
Trepidati0n is offline  
post #3 of 7 Old 08-19-2013, 07:09 AM
AVS Special Member
 
tuxedocivic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Ladysmith, BC
Posts: 4,415
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 180 Post(s)
Liked: 454
I'd just wire it passively with biamp terminals, then down the road, pop the terminal out and detach. Run the active wiring near to the terminal ahead of time, but not hooked up. So when you make the switch, just pull the terminal unhook the passive and hook up the active wire.
tuxedocivic is offline  
post #4 of 7 Old 08-19-2013, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Hindikush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: SE MI
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 12
I was hoping I was incorrect, shucks.. Thanks for the ideas though, let me try again.
I wanted to run (2) Neutrik 4 post panel mounts per box, giving me the ability to run them bi-amped or single through the passive (wiring change inside Neutrik connector for bi or single) or active through the second Neutrik.
I could run the passive outs back to the active Neutrik In, then back out to the drivers. Then I could pull this active Neutrik and disconnect the passive out wires leaving the leads going to the drivers connected whew.. I believe this would work, would It not?
I should have ordered the 8 pole Neutrik's, to make this even more confusing for me, lol.. I'm going to need to make a placard to mount to the rear of this box after I screw this all up...
I'll update my layout shortly & re-post the above idea, thanks all.
Hindikush is offline  
post #5 of 7 Old 08-19-2013, 12:15 PM
AVS Special Member
 
BassThatHz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: East side of NW Cascades
Posts: 2,633
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 122 Post(s)
Liked: 314
A Neutrik loopback, that's awesome, I'll have to remember that one.
You are giving me idea's... and that's a bad thing for my wallet!!!

I think I will "cheap-out" and put my XO's in an external box in my rack instead.
BassThatHz is offline  
post #6 of 7 Old 08-19-2013, 12:26 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Hindikush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: SE MI
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 12
If I would have thought this through thoroughly first, may have saved myself some $$ on these Neutrik connectors/plugs.
Hindikush is offline  
post #7 of 7 Old 08-19-2013, 03:22 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Hindikush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: SE MI
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 12
As understood from earlier thanks for the clarification Tux.., Trepid.., driving speakers actively while leaving the passive crossover connected (as shown In my first pic) Is a bad idea.
Will this work? Pretty much what I explained In post #4, visualized. I'll pull the active Neutrik and re-wire the back end to remove the passive from the chain.


BassThatHZ, external boxes, or removable rear panel, The removable rear panel would also aid In getting the drivers out.
Hindikush is offline  
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off