Step one- cutting 4x8' sheets into squares so I can router my circles.
Since I'm doing double plugs inside the sonotube (OK - some call them baffles) I found a creative way to utilize some scrap wood.
Using tight bond 2 I glued two 12.5" pieces together on top of a 24.5" square. My plunge router will go 2.5" deep so I can route out both inner plugs at the same time and save on wood at the same time.
However, I'm not brave enough to glue all my 24.5" boards together yet. I need to see how the router bit handles 1.5" and glue. ***Update** the gluing of the boards worked great, but what works even better is cutting everything out of one 4x8 sheet
Started cutting circles today. Banged three or four out and thought to myself, why the hell am I not cutting the inner circle out with the jig hooked up, as that was taking the most time. Setting the jig for each plug (ok, I know they are baffles, from here on out I will refer them as such).
So, I got onto SI s website and looked up the cutout data. 16.7", converted into a fraction it's like between about 16 and 11/16ths...... Great. Divide that in two, 8.35 or about 8 and 3/8ths.
Set up the circle jig with the router bit 8 and 3.8ths out, make my cut. Some how I'm not understanding how to cut the inner diameter correctly because the hole I was left with was 17 and 1/4..... 1/2" too big. The circle that came out was the size I needed the hole to be.
No idea where I went wrong or how to calculate it. I know that 1/4" of that was not measuring the bit on the inside of the cut, vs. the outside as is done for the first circle. No idea where the other 1/4" went. I have to fiddle with it in a way as to not waste wood. Like draw my circle then line the router up and figure out where I'm going wrong that way.
I can still use the baffle as a bottom piece since it won't matter if the hole is bigger than the driver's mounting ring.
Anyways..... after that mistake things went down hill quickly. I forgot to center the jig anchor in the middle of the board. Instead I centered it at the circle half way mark.
Then, I was back to routing along banging out circles like a worker on the assembly line and the damn bit broke. I've decided Harbor Freight is off limits. That's down right unsafe. I was only making 1/4" deep cuts, three passes, and I wasn't romping on the thing. POS.... that was it for the night.
I am buying a high end bit tomorrow and will hopefully finish all the squares I have.
On the plus side.... with a 1/4" bit I was able to go 1/2" over on my square cutouts. So a 24.5" square leaves almost nothing at the high points.
Got A LOT done today. See post 115 for some great info on how to cut precise circles, mostly inner circles, which were kicking my ass for a bit. I cut circles almost non-stop from 2:30 until about 7:00 when my bit broke. Good day today. Almost ready for my outer baffles.
I want to do a few test cuts on the edge to see what profile I will go with. Then it's off to get more MDF.My Tower Of Corner Scrap. WTH do you do with scrap MDF?See that little tiny piece in the lower left corner of the white work bench? That's what ended my day today.
Started on the home stretch - the outer baffles. They will have an outer edge profile of a 1/4" round over, and an inner (against the woofer) edge profile of 1/8" round over. Just enough to rub the edge down.
In post 115 I talk about a youtube vid that helped me with getting more accuracy out of cutting circles, mainly the inner one. This little tool is the cats meow. Notice how I wrote in the numbers from 0 at center and up towards each end. They didn't have a real zero center ruler at Home Depot.
Cutting the outer baffles out of the sheet this time. I'm confident enough with the router to do this now. Looks like it will also allow me to get two extra circles vs. if I was cutting them into squares first then routing out the circles.Mounting the drivers/planting the baffles -
Tonight I got it all done except for the final mount ..... any questions on the assembly let me know/. Here is sunk the first two inner baffles in and used a dead blow hammer from the bottom to pound them into place. AFTER I applied the glue.Flip them over and apply glue to the underside. I'll also caulk these with a sealant after the glue dries.I used my brad nailer to put some staples in all the way around. I think they were 3/4", maybe 1/2". I thought it was a worth while stepAgain- after pounding the baffles from the underside apply some glue. I used a square piece of MDF on the ground to get the inner baffle level with the top of the sonotube. Worked well.I screwed on the outer baffle, after routing the outer edge with a 1/4" round over bit, and the inner with a 1/8" round over bit. I sunk the screws and will cover them with spackle before priming the MDFOn each baffle I always dropped a woofer in the inner baffle before gluing and screwing the outer baffle on. This assures a perfect alignmentI used Tight Bond 2 for all my gluing. I read it sanded better and still did a good job holdingHere's a shot just after the outer baffle was glued and screwed. Nice and tight fit.
Here is a finished, ready for spackle, prime, and paint, single woofer enclosure.Done for the night. Next up - filler - primer - paint. I'm going with a truck bed liner for the final coat. Black. Durable. 9/29/13-- the last couple days have been torrential downpours here, so I've been limited to my garage, which is actually a fully finished gym that really isn't supposed to be used for carpentry work. I did however manage to get some spackling and sanding done. These guys are almost ready for primer and paint. Nothing really holding me back but the weather. I'm going to order my amp this weekGot most of the painting done, and I'll add those pics shortly. But these two pics show the sealant applied to the joints of the inner baffles. I would NOT trust the wood glue to seal your enclosure. In the taller tubes I managed to get the caulk gun to work, but in the 18" tubes forget it. For these I found it priceless to have a tube of caulk that was able to be squeezed by hand. About the size of a tube of toothpaste. Probably could have done them all with this, but wasn't really forced to look for a solution until I got to the shorter enclosures.10/11/13- Spent the last week + painting the outer baffles. Primer, sand, primer, truck bed liner, fill the screw holes better, more coats of bed liner, final coats of flat black paint.
Tonight I put the carpet on (all my baffles are painted) and installed the speakON connecters into the sonotube. I didn't take pictures of the carpet install process, if you've made it this far you can certainly find a way that works best for you to install the carpet.
I did however post some pics of the speakON install. You could use the same process with any terminal or speaker cup etc.. I chose the speakON connectors because the amp I am using has the same. There is two connectors for two of the enclosures and one connector on the other two. Why? Because I'm using two enclosures per channel so I'll simply link the enclosures in parallel via the speakONs. Didn't have to be this way but why not. Keeping it uniform.
Anyways.... the pictures are pretty self explanatory. The only thing I will point out is the holes drilled in the sonotube make it a very tight fit for the speakONs, and the screws that hold them in. This is important to prevent air leaks. Sure you go a bit bigger and use a more silicone, but I myself feel better if I have a nice tight fit PLUS using silicone. I had to tap these in with a screwdriver head. Besides who doesn't like tight?? Now... this is what happens when you put the carpet on first and focus more on not ripping the carpet than you do lining up your terminals, whatever they may be. You get crooked as crap. Next time I will line these guys up and cut first, then install my carpet and start with the seam at the holes.This last picture is shows the enclosure with the wheels I put on it. Gives it a 4.25" lift off the floor, and the best part is I never have to lift these things. Next up is installing the drivers and then doing it three more times. My amp doesn't get here until the 18th so I have a bit of time. -- Dumb move for this segment? Ummmmm ya... it's 24" diameter but that doesn't equate to 24" of carpet to wrap each enclosure. How much? I don't know because I'm math incompetent, but as soon as I get that sewing tape measure out I'll have my answer. lol.... More soon....
So... I went to the speaker place, Jmac, today to get more carpet. I was laughing at myself with the workers there about how I kept questioning the length when I bought the first piece of carpet. I swore it looked short. Sure enough it was. As I mentioned above my math was off. The answer has something to with PI and circles. Yes that good ol' 3.12 number.
Anyways... got one unit completely finished. I am very pleased with the end build result. I measured Ohm loads to double check wiring and all is good..... 4 ohm loads at the terminals.
Here's some pictures. I'm not going to caption any of them because it's all pretty self explanatory, but if anyone has any input or questions by all means post them.
Today I finished up a 'floater'. Hopefully I won't need to do to much 'floating' but if I do I got wheels!
These little guys would make great end tables, but I don't have the room. To start I'll place them about 4-5 ft. behind our theater seats in the opening to the L part of the room, which I believe is a the worst shape ever for a smooth response.
I got the speakON connectors dead straight this time.
Got the other two completed last night. Ran into a couple little snags, but nothing too bad. Had a couple air leaks, which turned out to be a good thing, around the speaker. The air leaks led to me realizing the screws I was using were going all the way through the basket. So I had to take out all the screws and replace them with a screw head that was a bit wider.
I also replaced all the weather stripping I was using to seal these guys with a rope caulk. Rope caulk for the win!This is the rope caulk, for those who aren't familiar with it. I was not familiar with just how good of a job it does at sealing the driver to the enclosure.Don't use the screw on the right. I've always used that type screw, but these baskets used on a lot the 18" drivers have larger holes.I know it probably doesn't matter, but I prefer this type of polyfill. There were several to chose from at the fabric store. I weighed it on a digital kitchen scale, .5 lbs per cubic foot. A little trick - stuff the bag and then compress it while at the same time cutting off air. It will stay compressed making it easy to weigh.I can't wait to have my theater back.You can see where the shorter, one driver enclosures, will go. That's about 4.5-5 ft behind the row of seats. Dogs are going to have to find a new home.
The build is DONE! Next up is tuning. See below for that journey.