Large Ported Dayton HO18's - Page 16 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 
Thread Tools
Old 10-10-2013, 06:57 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 16,856
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 568 Post(s)
Liked: 1170
"...aromatic red cedar..."

creative. somehow the mockup that you did got changed when i posted it in #18. the wood on top of that looks like cedar, so i suppose it was there all along. :-)

i suppose you will have the best smelling marty out there. wait, that doesn't sound quite right.

here it is again...kind of looks cedar...huh?


Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 10-10-2013, 07:11 PM
Advanced Member
 
mtg90's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Millbrook, IL
Posts: 921
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 82 Post(s)
Liked: 244
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post


My main problem is that this sub seems to have absolutely no output above 30hz or so. It just rumbles and shakes the house, absolutely zero mid-bass. I am so upset over this, as I just can not figure out what the problem is??

How deep is that sub, about 4'?

A reflection inside the enclosure off the rear wall would cause a cancellation centered around 80hz would it not? I think there may have been a similar problem with the SI18 16cuft boxes I built for Zheka. My measurements showed a 5dB dip that was centered around 120hz and that was with a lot of damping material right in the center of the box.




The Dayton DVC 15's I built in a similar style 10cuft enclosures also seemed to lack some bass kick.
mtg90 is offline  
Old 10-10-2013, 07:26 PM
AVS Special Member
 
chalugadp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 5,623
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1216 Post(s)
Liked: 1168
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

"...aromatic red cedar..."creative. somehow the mockup that you did got changed when i posted it in #18. the wood on top of that looks like cedar, so i suppose it was there all along. :-)i suppose you will have the best smelling marty out there. wait, that doesn't sound quite right.here it is again...kind of looks cedar...huh?[IMG ALT=""]http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/279744/width/350/height/700[/IMG]

When I build.furniture I often veer from my original idea , and i add parts to make it fancier . When finished I will update my sketchup. This box will be pretty sweet when I'm done biggrin.gif
chalugadp is offline  
Old 10-10-2013, 07:33 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 16,856
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 568 Post(s)
Liked: 1170
"A reflection inside the enclosure off the rear wall would cause a cancellation centered around 80hz would it not?"

yes, a very narrow, high q, notch.

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
Old 10-10-2013, 08:01 PM
AVS Special Member
 
datranz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: fontana, california
Posts: 1,047
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Liked: 37
I think the low end of boosted somehow. Did you rerun the avr room correction? Also you can run a low shelf in you have eq to make it sound more pronounce.
datranz is offline  
Old 10-10-2013, 08:03 PM
Senior Member
 
frankie2075's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: BROOKLYN, NY
Posts: 418
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Throwing this out there but if u have a port dia. Of 6in then then end of your port should be about 6in away or more from the back of your enclosure or it would add and unknown length to the port?
frankie2075 is offline  
Old 10-10-2013, 08:08 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 16,856
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 568 Post(s)
Liked: 1170
"Throwing this out there but if u have a port dia. Of 6in then then end of your port should be about 6in away or more from the back of your enclosure or it would add and unknown length to the port?"

wrong thread.

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
Old 10-10-2013, 08:09 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 16,856
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 568 Post(s)
Liked: 1170
"I think the low end of boosted somehow. Did you rerun the avr room correction? Also you can run a low shelf in you have eq to make it sound more pronounce."

great point. if the avr was set up for the sealed subs that he had before and then applied that boost to the marty sub it would just be nothing but bottom end.

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
Old 10-10-2013, 08:10 PM
Senior Member
 
frankie2075's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: BROOKLYN, NY
Posts: 418
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

"Throwing this out there but if u have a port dia. Of 6in then then end of your port should be about 6in away or more from the back of your enclosure or it would add and unknown length to the port?"

wrong thread.
Okay what thread then?
frankie2075 is offline  
Old 10-10-2013, 09:16 PM
AVS Special Member
 
chalugadp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 5,623
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1216 Post(s)
Liked: 1168
Marty is a slot port... not round.
chalugadp is offline  
Old 10-11-2013, 05:39 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Martycool007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,692
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 280 Post(s)
Liked: 172
I have the room correction set to "off", so that should not be an issue. I have the positive wire that comes out of the subs positive terminal connected to the speakon's +1 and the negative connected to the -1 . Is that the correct way of doing it?

My amp is a Behringer iNuke 3000 (non dsp). I may not have the amp setup correctly. Which setting should I have each of the two switches set to? There is one switch that says Crossover/Hf/Lf or Full Range, and the other switch says bridged or mono. I have tries every possible combination of settings but to no avail.

It has to be either enclosure related or cable related. I am thinking that it is enclosure related as my MFW-15 is working fine when connected to my iNuke 3000. Any other suggestions on why my HO18 has no mid-bass output at all?
Martycool007 is offline  
Old 10-11-2013, 11:37 AM
AVS Special Member
 
datranz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: fontana, california
Posts: 1,047
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Liked: 37
now, rerun room calibration,...the midbass is there but it is too clean and you're getting too much room gain, the low fr is overpowering, the sound becomes mudd and slow. Is this one sub or 2 sub? You will need to 2 but to balance it out if you have a null.
datranz is offline  
Old 10-11-2013, 01:51 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Martycool007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,692
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 280 Post(s)
Liked: 172
I have two subs and they are not in a null because I have tried them all over the room, it has something to do with either the enclosure of wiring. I don't use the room correction features.
Martycool007 is offline  
Old 10-11-2013, 02:18 PM
AVS Special Member
 
datranz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: fontana, california
Posts: 1,047
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Liked: 37
You will need eq for sure. When I first build my 1st sub, I blew 2 ae av15h because I didn't have enough mid bass. After rew and eq. I don't think I can handle more bass in my 14000cu room. Well that's a lie biggrin.gif I could use more but I don't need it. It's the low end overpowering and a big bump somewhere that needs to be tame. It will take a few days to notice how clean your bass is. Sometime clean bass makes the volume seem low.
datranz is offline  
Old 10-11-2013, 02:33 PM
Senior Member
 
splotten's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 478
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 85 Post(s)
Liked: 52
Its a bit sad you are not happy with your build. Ill admit I haven't read all the posts here but it seems real strange the it drops off like that. Also Its a bit hard figuring out whats wrong when you cant measure the sub or your in-room response. Have you tried stuffing the ports and running it sealed? If so what did that sound like? Are you sure it drops above 30Hz and not ~50 or 60Hz? The other marty sub measured in post 377 onwards looked like it had that tendency, although I am not aware if yours are an identical build.
splotten is offline  
Old 10-11-2013, 03:06 PM
AVS Special Member
 
wormraper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson Arizona
Posts: 4,416
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 122 Post(s)
Liked: 74
more than a bit I'd say frown.gif. sorry it's not going so well with your sub marty... hopefully it's something simple like a room spike, but it MIGHT be you're wiring... the 2 I have in my room are simply destructive beyond belief in the midbass so something is up.
wormraper is online now  
Old 10-11-2013, 03:07 PM
AVS Special Member
 
chalugadp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 5,623
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1216 Post(s)
Liked: 1168
I will be done my Marty sub by next Friday and I have inuke 3000 dsp. I will be using rew and i hope my results are similar to Mike's cool.gif
chalugadp is offline  
Old 10-11-2013, 07:16 PM
Senior Member
 
splotten's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 478
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 85 Post(s)
Liked: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

I have the positive wire that comes out of the subs positive terminal connected to the speakon's +1 and the negative connected to the -1 . Is that the correct way of doing it?

My amp is a Behringer iNuke 3000 (non dsp). I may not have the amp setup correctly. Which setting should I have each of the two switches set to? There is one switch that says Crossover/Hf/Lf or Full Range, and the other switch says bridged or mono. I have tries every possible combination of settings but to no avail.

I took a look at the manual. Its not overly clear, but I believe you have connected the speacons correctly. As I understand the manual, both subs should have their speacons connected as you describe. The first switch should be placed in the mono position if you have only one signal cable going into the amplifier from the pre-amp. That way both subs are powered with identical signals from output channel A and B. The manual doesn't say if you should use input channel A or B , but assume its A. The other switch should be placed in position "full range". Otherwise you engage the crossover function and you dont need that.

What about the protective high pass filter?? You might need that to protect the woofer from over excursion below tuning.
splotten is offline  
Old 10-11-2013, 07:32 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 16,856
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 568 Post(s)
Liked: 1170
"I have the positive wire that comes out of the subs positive terminal connected to the speakon's +1 and the negative connected to the -1 . Is that the correct way of doing it?"

that will work for wiring to a single channel, which should give you about 500 watts or so and that should be enough to get you going for sure.

.........................

if you want to run bridged mode, the amp requires that the black wire that you have connected to 1- be taken out of 1- and plugged into the hole called 2+.

this is what it says on the back of your amp. bridge: 1+ (pos.) 2+ (neg.)



wire it that way and plug the cable into Channel A. that should give you up to about 2200 watts, which is too much power! so if you do that, be careful or you might bar-b-que your subwoofer.

.........................

the other selectors should be set:
mode: stereo (unless you wire for bridge mode of course)
crossover: full range

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
Old 10-11-2013, 07:40 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 16,856
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 568 Post(s)
Liked: 1170
"the 2 I have in my room are simply destructive beyond belief in the midbass so something is up."

what?



"the 2...I have in my room are simply destructive beyond belief in the midbass so something is up."

what?



"the 2...I have in my room are...simply destructive...beyond belief in the midbass so something is up."

what?



"the 2...I have...in my room are...simply destructive...beyond belief...in the midbass...so something...is up."

oh. got it. :-)~

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
Old 10-11-2013, 10:01 PM
Senior Member
 
mhutchins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 481
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 30 Post(s)
Liked: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

These speakon connectors are the devil! I absolutely hate these things as I can not easily get the wired to stay down while I tighten the screws, and even when I do get them tightened, they come off with only a simple tug!

Hey Marty,

I'm not sure if this has been answered yet, but you might try stripping the wire 24mm instead of 12mm, then fold the bare wire end in half and insert it into the cup next to the screw. With more wire volume in the cup, the screw should be able to provide a solid purchase and prevent the wire from pulling out.

Alternatively, you could "tin" the end of the wire with some solder, and that may do the trick. My experience (with all of 4 Speakon connectors) is that the design is effective for retaining 12g wire securely. Since a 12g conductor is fairly large, a 16g or 18g conductor may be too small for this system to work unless you double up on the amount of wire in the cup.

Hope this helps! wink.gif
mhutchins is offline  
Old 10-12-2013, 01:06 AM
AVS Special Member
 
wormraper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson Arizona
Posts: 4,416
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 122 Post(s)
Liked: 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

"the 2 I have in my room are simply destructive beyond belief in the midbass so something is up."

what?



"the 2...I have in my room are simply destructive beyond belief in the midbass so something is up."

what?



"the 2...I have in my room are...simply destructive...beyond belief in the midbass so something is up."

what?



"the 2...I have...in my room are...simply destructive...beyond belief...in the midbass...so something...is up."

oh. got it. :-)~


Rotfl!!!!
wormraper is online now  
Old 10-12-2013, 05:46 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Martycool007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,692
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 280 Post(s)
Liked: 172
I finally figured out how to get the wire to stay in the connector, you have to only strip off a small amount of the wires sheathing and leave some of the sheeting on to fit down in the hole.
Martycool007 is offline  
Old 10-12-2013, 05:49 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Martycool007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,692
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 280 Post(s)
Liked: 172
The problems that I am having with the sub not producing mid-bass, at all, can now be proven not to be a mistake with the wiring as I plugged my old sub up to my iNuke 3000 using the same cable that I have with my Marty Sub, and the older sub sounded great with the same cable.
Martycool007 is offline  
Old 10-12-2013, 07:01 AM
AVS Special Member
 
wormraper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson Arizona
Posts: 4,416
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 122 Post(s)
Liked: 74
Can you test for air leaks around the
driver and seams?
wormraper is online now  
Old 10-12-2013, 03:27 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 16,856
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 568 Post(s)
Liked: 1170
"The problems that I am having with the sub not producing mid-bass, at all, can now be proven not to be a mistake with the wiring as I plugged my old sub up to my iNuke 3000 using the same cable that I have with my Marty Sub, and the older sub sounded great with the same cable."

sounds like you got the cable working. the screw in the neutrik is supposed to contact the wire directly, but maybe there wasn't enough wire in this case.

it is still a mystery: "am having with the sub not producing mid-bass, at all,..."

like worm mentioned...if everything else is good, the amp, the eq, the wire, the driver, and so forth...it comes down to how well you put the box together and mounted the driver.

do you have lots of air leaks around your driver?

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
Old 10-12-2013, 03:31 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 16,856
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 568 Post(s)
Liked: 1170
and is the polarity right? subwoofer with reversed polarity relative to mains will create a nice big suckout in the midbass.

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
Old 10-12-2013, 05:09 PM
AVS Special Member
 
chalugadp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 5,623
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1216 Post(s)
Liked: 1168
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

and is the polarity right? subwoofer with reversed polarity relative to mains will create a nice big suckout in the midbass.

Hey Ltd. Where did you learn all this info ... at school , self taught ? If you were going to recommend one book that explains home theater stuff and how it relates to each other , amp , speaker , room , etc. ??? I think its time for me to do some reading and learn. A book that's not too technical would be nice biggrin.gif
chalugadp is offline  
Old 10-12-2013, 05:17 PM
Senior Member
 
frankie2075's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: BROOKLYN, NY
Posts: 418
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Hey Ltd. Where did you learn all this info ... at school , self taught ? If you were going to recommend one book that explains home theater stuff and how it relates to each other , amp , speaker , room , etc. ??? I think its time for me to some reading and learn. A book that's not too technical would be nice biggrin.gif

yes i would like to know too?
frankie2075 is offline  
Old 10-12-2013, 06:40 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 16,856
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 568 Post(s)
Liked: 1170
to get a little bit of a feel for many of the key topics, jbl's sound system design reference manual is a great read and it's free:

http://www.jblpro.com/pub/manuals/pssdm_1.pdf

as for one book to get off to a good start, probably this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Sound-Reproduction-Acoustics-Psychoacoustics-Loudspeakers/dp/0240520092

as for the most important thing that most folks get confused about...how incredibly undersized most modern audio systems are relative to what they are trying to accomplish.

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
 
Thread Tools


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off