Large Ported Dayton HO18's - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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DIY Speakers and Subs > Large Ported Dayton HO18's
4seahorseman's Avatar 4seahorseman 08:31 AM 01-31-2014
Would the Ep4000 be good alternative to the inuke3000dsp It has a high pass filter but I am not sure what else the inukedsp does that the ep does not?

4seahorseman's Avatar 4seahorseman 09:04 AM 01-31-2014
I think I answered my own question. I need a
Separate mini-dsp for the ep4k. Think I will stick with the inukedsp.
dogger99's Avatar dogger99 02:38 PM 02-02-2014
is there a standup version of the Martysub
chalugadp's Avatar chalugadp 02:45 PM 02-02-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogger99 View Post

is there a standup version of the Martysub
Same sub , stand it up and brace it in place. smile.gif
dogger99's Avatar dogger99 03:04 PM 02-02-2014
so the driver would be facing up?



Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Same sub , stand it up and brace it in place. smile.gif

russell_thiessen's Avatar russell_thiessen 03:14 PM 02-02-2014
Yup that's my plan. My room is to narrow to have them flat so I'm standing two up between my LC and CR.
AlphaPie's Avatar AlphaPie 08:54 PM 02-02-2014
I think I'm gong to start my build on a single marty when the snow clears up. I'm going to need some more clamps and glue...
AlphaPie's Avatar AlphaPie 01:14 PM 02-03-2014
If I were to make this 2x2 instead of 2x4 how much output would I be losing?
chalugadp's Avatar chalugadp 01:28 PM 02-03-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaPie View Post

If I were to make this 2x2 instead of 2x4 how much output would I be losing?

10-15dbs below 40hz
LTD02's Avatar LTD02 01:38 PM 02-03-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4seahorseman View Post

Here is a picture of the MDF bracing in the first box before I put the top on:


Here are the pair in the position they will eventually be:


damn...how'd I miss that one!? NICE WORK! snap some more pics if you don't mind and we'll get them linked up in the original MARTYSUB! post!
LTD02's Avatar LTD02 01:52 PM 02-03-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Flynn View Post

My mini-marty is all cut and ready to assemble. Just waiting on my circle cutting jig and then it should be a quick process gluing / etc.

I will have to plan out my bracing though. No clue what I will do for that yet frown.gif

I will make a new thread with all of the pics and specs and cut sheet /etc when I start the assembly.

Big thanks to home depot for cutting my sheets down to the perfect size lol. The little tykes table saw I am using is only capable of 20" cuts. Lame.




FANTASTIC! ...and very exciting to see so many MARTYSUBS! popping up. I was kind of thinking about some sort of cut plan for the MINI-MARTY! that might make it even easier for the guys at home depot (or wherever) to make the cuts.

something sort of like this:





the slot braces could be then cut from a 1 x piece of pine. I'm thinking this might be a good tradeoff to simplify the cutting process.

by "stop" I mean the saw position for rips or a physical block for crosscuts.

officially, they indicate that they don't make length cuts (rips), but it seems that many of them do. hhmmm...
LTD02's Avatar LTD02 01:53 PM 02-03-2014
still need an idea for how to get the driver cutouts made for folks with no saw.

any ideas?
Trepidati0n's Avatar Trepidati0n 02:00 PM 02-03-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

still need an idea for how to get the driver cutouts made for folks with no saw.

any ideas?

Gotta pay the piper eventually. I would say do a non-flush mount driver and a cheap jig saw from harbor freight. Relative to the cost of the clamps required, it seems like a small amount to pay.

EDIT: Another choice is to recess but make a "removable speaker cover" as indicated below.
Ryan Flynn's Avatar Ryan Flynn 02:03 PM 02-03-2014

Where do you find cheap clamps?  :)  Haha.

 

I ordered up my SI18 HT D4 today... hoping it will be a nice pairing to my inuke3000DSP. 

 

I did the fan mod last night while watching the stupidbowl - it was as easy as I expected.  Tools Needed:  Beer, #1 phillips screwdriver, more beer, crimp tool, and 2 solderless connectors.  It scared me for a second after plugging it in though - it was literally silent and I didnt think the fan was even on until i turned the amp around and saw the fan spinning like crazy.  Excellent mod done to an amp that has never been powered up haha.

 

 

Lastly - Is there any 'good' way to made a removable speaker cover?  I assume rare - earth magnets would due?  Where do you get the fabric?


thebuckaman's Avatar thebuckaman 02:17 PM 02-03-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Flynn View Post

Where do you find cheap clamps?  smile.gif  Haha.

I ordered up my SI18 HT D4 today... hoping it will be a nice pairing to my inuke3000DSP. 

I did the fan mod last night while watching the stupidbowl - it was as easy as I expected.  Tools Needed:  Beer, #1 phillips screwdriver, more beer, crimp tool, and 2 solderless connectors.  It scared me for a second after plugging it in though - it was literally silent and I didnt think the fan was even on until i turned the amp around and saw the fan spinning like crazy.  Excellent mod done to an amp that has never been powered up haha.


Lastly - Is there any 'good' way to made a removable speaker cover?  I assume rare - earth magnets would due?  Where do you get the fabric?

I bought grill kits, fabric, and neo magnets from parts express. easy to assemble and look great.


mhutchins's Avatar mhutchins 05:39 PM 02-03-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Flynn View Post


Lastly - Is there any 'good' way to made a removable speaker cover?  I assume rare - earth magnets would due?  Where do you get the fabric?

I used leftover miliskin spandex from when I constructed my Acoustically Transparent screen:


AlphaPie's Avatar AlphaPie 06:42 PM 02-03-2014
Well I've got my sides, top and bottom cut. Also cut out my port and the 2 braces but realized I had no wood glue left.. Are!
mhutchins's Avatar mhutchins 07:26 PM 02-03-2014
I've mulled over my simplified bracing plan as well as Bill Fitzmaurice's comments that followed. There is always room for improvement, and I think I have come up with a reasonable balance between ease of construction and overall strength. The missing component that several builders felt strongly about was the lack of cross bracing between opposite panels. I believe this new design will address that issue without a significant increase in cost or complexity. Below is the original proposal (left image) along with two modified bracing schemes.



As you can see (middle image), I've added a pair of cross braces between the two sides and between the slot brace and the top. To facilitate addition of the two vertical cross braces, I extended the stub braces so that they could be joined with a lap joint.

Alternatively, you can leave the stub braces short, and just glue the two vertical braces in place after the top is attached (right image). With this method, I would use construction adhesive, rather than wood glue, for the higher bond strength.

As always, constructive criticism is welcomed.
Mike

NB: This is for the full size Marty, not the mini.
chalugadp's Avatar chalugadp 07:55 PM 02-03-2014
Whether for the full or minimarty if I was recommending bracing for a dude building with not a lot of experience I would use this
9u5any8e.jpg

The reason my vertical pieces are one piece is that they allow the builder to achieve a dead square fit with ease. Also it makes the box crazy strong. I can walk on the top of my martysub and I'm no lightweight . Yes the bracing is pricier and if I were making them for a profit I would do it different . For myself I like to make it bulletproof .
RickD1225's Avatar RickD1225 08:45 PM 02-03-2014
That looks real similar to the bracing in my dual sealed subs. Solid is the word I would use. For the front to back bracing I used one long piece for each and notched them into the side bracing.

A side benefit is 4 of the driver mounting screws hit the front to back bracing.
LTD02's Avatar LTD02 09:03 PM 02-03-2014
"Where do you find cheap clamps?"

check out: http://www.harborfreight.com
AlphaPie's Avatar AlphaPie 09:25 PM 02-03-2014
Since it began snowing yesterday I've been beyond bored and I had the day off today. I thought what the hell, ill start this crazy marty build. Luckily I've spent no money yet since material, including glue and screws are free this time around tongue.gif But I was lazy and I didn't want to go to lowes so when I discovered frozen hard wood glue, I utilized some F26 subfloor adhesive which sets faster anyhow. Its pretty easy as long as you dont screw up like I did, screwing too close to the edge and cracking the mdf. Hopefully the f26 I shoved in it and the clamps will help it heal by tomorrow.. I really dont feel like ripping all that down again cool.gif

Here are some pics for the photoholics.








chalugadp's Avatar chalugadp 09:30 PM 02-03-2014
Looks good :thumbup:
The reason I use my brad nailer is I don't have to use clamps. With my bostich I can adjust the depth of the nail so it sits flush with the surface. Don't even have to fill the hole.
AlphaPie's Avatar AlphaPie 09:36 PM 02-03-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Looks good :thumbup:
The reason I use my brad nailer is I don't have to use clamps. With my bostich I can adjust the depth of the nail so it sits flush with the surface. Don't even have to fill the hole.

I have one and used it for the port shelf, if thats what you call it, and the 2 braces. But on the sides it just wasnt sucking up flush so I used some serious 3 inch star bit screws I used at work. Perhaps my sheet of mdf had a slight bow to it, I'm not sure. Perhaps I just suck at building. I'm planning to caulk in every seem on the inside before I'm done to be sure its sealed.

I was looking back and I didnt see what amp your using to drive your marty? wink.gif
chalugadp's Avatar chalugadp 10:09 PM 02-03-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaPie View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Looks good :thumbup:
The reason I use my brad nailer is I don't have to use clamps. With my bostich I can adjust the depth of the nail so it sits flush with the surface. Don't even have to fill the hole.

I have one and used it for the port shelf, if thats what you call it, and the 2 braces. But on the sides it just wasnt sucking up flush so I used some serious 3 inch star bit screws I used at work. Perhaps my sheet of mdf had a slight bow to it, I'm not sure. Perhaps I just suck at building. I'm planning to caulk in every seem on the inside before I'm done to be sure its sealed.

I was looking back and I didnt see what amp your using to drive your marty? wink.gif
I always have a couple of spots that need a quick clamp and then a nail to get tight.

I use inuke3000 dsp. The si18 gets 1100 watts and my uxl will get 2k watts . Wish inuke was black .
mhutchins's Avatar mhutchins 11:30 PM 02-03-2014
Let's get READY TO R U M B L E ! ! !
steve nn's Avatar steve nn 12:04 AM 02-04-2014
Quote:
chal> Wish inuke was black .

eek.gif HU? I would think b blue to match that other piece of gear we were talking the other day. tongue.gifsmile.gif
AlphaPie's Avatar AlphaPie 08:21 AM 02-04-2014
Bracing doesn't affect the sound does it? It's primarily used to keep the box together and from flexing? So really any type or design I choose should work? As long as I don't put so much to lower the volume of air?
steve nn's Avatar steve nn 08:32 AM 02-04-2014
Quote:
As long as I don't put so much to lower the volume of air?

Depending on the amount, any amount will have it’s effect in displacement. .25cf is displacement as .75cf is displacement. Depending on the size of your enclosure the amount will have more or less of a % of displacement or effect regarding your tune. That’s why we build our enclosures larger factoring in the displacement for bracing, driver and vent.
AlphaPie's Avatar AlphaPie 08:52 AM 02-04-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

Depending on the amount, any amount will have it’s effect in displacement. .25cf is displacement as .75cf is displacement. Depending on the size of your enclosure the amount will have more or less of a % of displacement or effect regarding your tune. That’s why we build our enclosures larger factoring in the displacement for bracing, driver and vent.

I so, I want as little bracing as possible while maintaining the strongest possible design. I was planning on use MDF cleat material for the bracing, any other suggestions?
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