Large Ported Dayton HO18's - Page 34 - AVS Forum
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post #991 of 1022 Old 04-07-2014, 06:54 PM
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Yes, 16-3/4" for the cutout. If you want to flush mount the woofer, that diameter would be 18-1/4".

I would match the port area to your first Marty Sub. for example, if your first Marty had a port area of 21" x 3" = 63 in^2.
Therefore, with the one-cut Marty using a port width of 22.5", the port height would be 63in^2 / 22.5" = 2.8" or ~2-3/4"

Then, with the port area matched, you can use the same port length as your first Marty and the tune will be the same! wink.gif

Good luck with the build!
Mike
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post #992 of 1022 Old 04-07-2014, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4seahorseman View Post

Full marty, one-cut stormtrooper version.


I agree with John. Your Marty Sub looks BAD ASS !!!!
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post #993 of 1022 Old 04-07-2014, 07:28 PM
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Thanks guys, I don't have the woodworking skills of Donny, far from it, but I am happy with how they came out. I think it is cool to see all the variations people come up with. I am in the design profession and tend to lean toward a contemporary look.
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post #994 of 1022 Old 04-07-2014, 07:55 PM
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As my students would say ,
You have mad skills bro:eek:
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post #995 of 1022 Old 04-08-2014, 02:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Finally got my 3rd MartySub finished, just need to install the driver. I went with a port that was 3" tall by 21" wide by 36" deep. I am hoping that tune works out nicely. The other two MartySubs that I built were with a 3" tall by 21" wide by 42" deep slot port. I plan to compare the two port options and see which I like best. The tops on my other two MartySubs are removable so I can open them up and trim or change the ports as necessary. I absolutely can not wait to get the driver installed and fire these babies up!

Since I will be powering these with a single iNuke3000 (non-DSP) per two MartySubs, one on each channel, how should the speakons be wired? Would it be: positive to +1 and negative to -1 on channel "A" then the same for channel "B"?

How should the switches on the back be set? Last question is what kind of screws do you guys like to use on these Dayton HO18's? I noticed that the holes on the driver are fairly large, so it will likely take a bigger screw, right?
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post #996 of 1022 Old 04-08-2014, 06:43 PM
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1 of 2 UXL full size Marty's. I went with the 3" vent opening. When I look in the vent... Oh my god, it's full of bass!!! I planned on making a grill but that UXL is so impressive, I kinda hate to cover it. The lens distortion on my iPhone makes the vents appear larger and the box look out of square.



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post #997 of 1022 Old 04-08-2014, 07:26 PM
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Marty , that is how my speakons are wired. After wandering the menards isles for way to long I ended up using this for mounting the drivers:

MM welcome to the family!
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post #998 of 1022 Old 04-09-2014, 04:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, got the driver mounted to the front baffle & wired with some left over 12/2 I had from redoing the wiring in my kitchen. All that is left to do is attach the speakon terminal to the enclosure and install the top! I can't wait to get these babies fired up!

Quick question, the speakon plug that I had is already assembled/put together, and I can't seem to figure out how to un connect it so that I can install the wire into it. I tried to hold down the plastic gray colored thing and twist it but I was unable to get the damn thing apart! Any suggestions on how to get the speakon plug apart?
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post #999 of 1022 Old 04-09-2014, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey_Man View Post

1 of 2 UXL full size Marty's. I went with the 3" vent opening. When I look in the vent... Oh my god, it's full of bass!!! I planned on making a grill but that UXL is so impressive, I kinda hate to cover it. The lens distortion on my iPhone makes the vents appear larger and the box look out of square.



Looking good monkey man!

 

One word.....

 

SINISTER!  

 

: )

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post #1000 of 1022 Old 07-12-2014, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
as for gain...since it is *unlikely* that your avr will output *too much* voltage for the amp, go ahead and set the gains all the way up. then adjust the level using the subwoofer trim in the avr.

monitor it during some heavy bass scenes to ensure that you are clipping the heck out of the signal.
So you're saying max out the behringer gain and then adjust sub level in the avr? Or the reverse? I'm a bit concerned my avr is t putting out enough voltage and I was told to max my lfe level in my avr. No??
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post #1001 of 1022 Old 07-12-2014, 03:15 PM
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My 15" Ultimax "fake Marty"
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post #1002 of 1022 Old 07-13-2014, 05:33 AM - Thread Starter
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I am still loving my quad full sized MartySubs, but, something has been bugging me with regards to the cabinet sizes. My first two MartySubs were built using the handy panels from Home Depot, and being that my wood working skills are infinitely better now than they were back when I started this thread, my last two MartySubs I built to be exactly 48" long by 24" tall by 24" wide, and I used a 3" tall by 22.5" slot port that is 36" long. The handy panels are I believe long than 48" and slightly different on the width too as I believe that a sheet of MDF is 49" by ??

So basically the handy panel subs are not exactly 48" x 24" x 24", and because of this I can't help but wonder what the differences would be between the handy panel enclosures versus the exact enclosures, or if it would even matter?

(Note that I used the same slot port at 3" x 22.5" x 36" on both enclosures)
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post #1003 of 1022 Old 07-13-2014, 06:33 AM
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It's a small change in volume and port tune but not significant. Probably .25hz difference in tune max. I wouldn't worry about it.

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #1004 of 1022 Old 07-20-2014, 05:50 AM
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Ok, I've been reading these threads for months and I'm finally ready to build my own but have one question. I need to place the sub in a vertical position in the corner of my room behind the entertainment center. Do I need to build a 'vertical' box with the sub facing forward, or just stick with the regular box and sit it upright? Does it make a difference if the port is forward or up firing?
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post #1005 of 1022 Old 07-23-2014, 06:46 PM
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either way will work.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #1006 of 1022 Old 07-24-2014, 02:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Do you guys use any gasket type material between the Dayton HO18's and the box?

Also, when I built my last two MartySubs I used a 1/2" router bit and a 16 & 3/4 position on my Jasper Jig, and I just noticed that there are some small gaps left between the hole and the driver. I should have made the hole slightly smaller in order to compensate for the larger bit.

The gap is pretty small, so I am thinking that I might pull the drivers and add some foam weather stripping in between the drivers and thief cutouts on the baffle.
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post #1007 of 1022 Old 07-24-2014, 02:49 AM
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"So basically the handy panel subs are not exactly 48" x 24" x 24", and because of this I can't help but wonder what the differences would be between the handy panel enclosures versus the exact enclosures, or if it would even matter? "


i missed your question marty. the difference is so small that it makes no practical difference.

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post #1008 of 1022 Old 07-24-2014, 06:27 AM
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Hi, could someone help me a bit with Dayton UM18-22 exact cutout measures for the baffle cutout and outer baffle flush diameters.
Dayton web page tells that outside diameter is18,5" and cutout 17" can somebody verify these please.

I need to finish my build before I get elements.

Thanks

Last edited by SJo1; 07-24-2014 at 09:28 PM.
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post #1009 of 1022 Old 07-25-2014, 02:10 AM
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fyi, I'm not aware that anybody has received their order yet.

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post #1010 of 1022 Old 07-25-2014, 05:32 AM
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Thank ltd02, I tought there were some early batch, but maybe those were just "testunits".
So I will wait till I get them in hand to be safe I try to get pair of these, US guy's have advantage over with partsexpress backorder and there might be long queue for them...
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post #1011 of 1022 Old 09-15-2014, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
The Marty Sub Attacks!

Now, in light of the new information, i'd suggest changing the port height to 3.0" and going with a length of 36.0" for a best guess" tuning of 17hz.

so the new plan for the slot port, subject as always to revisions and updates, is 21.0" wide X 3.0" tall X 36.0" long.
that targets a tuning of 17hz in a cabinet with a net volume of 11 cubic feet (a martysub).

edit: even more
Introducing...The Marty Sub "One Cut" Version!

front view grill off:



cut sheet:
a total of 8 handy panels 24" x 48" nominal OR two full sheets of mdf or plywood.
four handy panels that are not cut down.
four handy panels that are cut down thusly:


it's not that bad. really, it's not. :-)
.
I read through the first 6+ pages of this thread, and figured I would ask a question and hope for a response vs keep reading the next 28 pages to see if my question is Answered.

Is the illustration/ cut sheet above the best current version? It saw discussions of different edits, and learnings on WiniSD port dynamics, etc, that suggested modifications... And wasn't sure if this is a 'final'.

I know there is the Marty Cube FAQ thread, but that has the sub on the 'long side' of the panel, and I definitely want to go with the sub on the '2x2' side instead.

The two above posts reference a 32" port and a 36" port, and I wasn't sure which one was optimal.

Thanks!

Kevin


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post #1012 of 1022 Old 09-15-2014, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SXRDISBEST View Post
My 15" Ultimax "fake Marty"
"Fake Marty" = "Farty"?

Couldn't resist.
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post #1013 of 1022 Old 09-15-2014, 07:25 AM
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given all of what we have learned and how the builds are coming in, extending the port to 42" is probably about ideal in that one.


that will give a first port resonance right around 160hz and enclosure tuning around 17hz.

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post #1014 of 1022 Old 09-15-2014, 07:28 AM
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also, I haven't been updating that post since the software change back. the number of pictures is over the limit and I'm concerned that if I try to make edits, i'll end up losing the whole thing.

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post #1015 of 1022 Old 09-15-2014, 07:37 AM
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and if you don't want/need a recessed baffle, this one is pretty cool too:


Another LTD02 Designed Sub Build

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post #1016 of 1022 Old 09-21-2014, 03:35 PM
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Sub is all done and hooked up in my theater.. Needs some more tweaking to get it right but I'm happy with it so far , other then the size. You really don't know how big it is till you have it in your room lol. Had a local guy build the box for my. He did a great job.









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post #1017 of 1022 Old 09-22-2014, 03:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
given all of what we have learned and how the builds are coming in, extending the port to 42" is probably about ideal in that one.


that will give a first port resonance right around 160hz and enclosure tuning around 17hz.
I made my first two enclosures with the 3" high port that was 21" wide and 36" long in the standard full sized MartySub (ie: 2 ft by 2ft by 4ft) and was curious as to whether I should open them back up and add some wood to extend the port to 42"? Or, is the 3" x 21" x 36" port ok?
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post #1018 of 1022 Old 09-22-2014, 04:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post
I made my first two enclosures with the 3" high port that was 21" wide and 36" long in the standard full sized MartySub (ie: 2 ft by 2ft by 4ft) and was curious as to whether I should open them back up and add some wood to extend the port to 42"? Or, is the 3" x 21" x 36" port ok?
it's fine... the difference is miniscule...
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post #1019 of 1022 Old 09-22-2014, 05:57 PM
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It seams like I really have to turn up my Inuke3000dps to get anything out of the sub.. It's bridged right now and I still have the dial cranked all but 3 clicks. I had to turn the gain up in the software to get it to really get loud. Any one else have a issue like that? I figured the Inuke 3000 would be enough to run this off just one channel. I'm running a yamaha rx-a2010 sub out to the inuke. I'm using a SI18 sub. Thanks, It sounds good now just didn't think I would have to turn it up that high.. I only turn my receiver up to about -38 to -34 db.

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post #1020 of 1022 Old 09-22-2014, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesVG81 View Post
It seams like I really have to turn up my Inuke3000dps to get anything out of the sub.. It's bridged right now and I still have the dial cranked all but 3 clicks. I had to turn the gain up in the software to get it to really get loud. Any one else have a issue like that? I figured the Inuke 3000 would be enough to run this off just one channel. I'm running a yamaha rx-a2010 sub out to the inuke. I'm using a SI18 sub. Thanks, It sounds good now just didn't think I would have to turn it up that high.. I only turn my receiver up to about -38 to -34 db.
it's probably because your amp doesn't have the voltage to 100% drive the Inuke... might try something like a clearbox to increase the voltage output to the Inuke
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