Hey guys! I just purchased 2 of the Dayton HO18's, and I need some help on the enclosure design. I want to go with a large, ported enclosure that is tuned to either 16hz or 18hz, depending on which would be best.
I have no size, space, or WAF restrictions, so I can build as large of an enclosure as I want. I would prefer to use a traditional round port, as opposed to a slot port as my wood working skills are still in the novice category. I will be powering this with a Behringer iNuke 3000, using a MiniDsp 2 x 4 with advanced plug in for the HPF.
So with that being said, can someone please model the driver in a large ported enclosure tuned to either 16hz or 18hz? Which tuning do you guys think would be best? I am open to any suggestions on the tune. I need to figure out the hight, width, and depth of the enclosure, as well as the diameter and length of the port. Can someone help me out on this?
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Originally Posted by AlphaPie /t/1489541/large-ported-dayton-ho18s/810#post_24382368
Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp /t/1489541/large-ported-dayton-ho18s/810#post_24382334
It outputs what is sent..you don't hear bass below 20hz. You feel it. 98% of bass from movies and music is 20hz and above. Some movies have bass below 20hz. No need to worry , just enjoy the thump
Good to know! Thanks. Now I'm just waiting glue to dry and monoprice to get around to sending me my cables. Looking at the Inuke software, looks very confusing. Much more reading I must do...
Don't forget to add a small bead of caulk around the speakon connector where the flange meets the body of the connector. Silicone, tub caulk, duct seal putty - just something flexible that will ensure a good seal
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins /t/1489541/large-ported-dayton-ho18s/810#post_24383925
Don't forget to add a small bead of caulk around the speakon connector where the flange meets the body of the connector. Silicone, tub caulk, duct seal putty - just something flexible that will ensure a good seal
Well the SI18 D4 is sold out...that means for good I assume. I have an inuke3000dsp and my two boxes with a 16.7" cutout and am looking for another driver option. They still have some D2 left and there e is the Dayton HO. PE has a new driver listed to be available next week that has a 16.6" cutout, the PRV Audio 18SW2200-2+2, has anyone run a model yet with this in the marty?
Does anyone know if there are still any available SI 18HTD2's or 18HTD4's left? I may have to cancel my order for the iNuke1000dsp that I just ordered if SI is about to sell out of the 18HT's!
The SI website still shows the D2 available. I saw on another thread someone actually from si said they have stopped production on this line of drivers, that's why I said no more after they are gone.
I did see the low excursion on that but wasn't sure what that meant as far as performance. The Dayton HO is not dual coil and the D2 can't draw the 2ohm loads, should I stick with one of them, or if the new ultimax which is DVC was wired in parallel to draw 1,100w from the inuke3000, would that be a better option than those other two drivers? The cutout is slightly bigger and that might be a pain to enlarge, but I can wait for them to be available since my room is still in progress.
Well I slipped when using my planer to take down an uneven edge. Dug right into the top board.. All glued already. Not sure if I want to live with this or risk tearing apart the box to replace the top piece. Sucks
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaPie /t/1489541/large-ported-dayton-ho18s/800_80#post_24390946
Well I slipped when using my planer to take down an uneven edge. Dug right into the top board.. All glued already. Not sure if I want to live with this or risk tearing apart the box to replace the top piece. Sucks
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaPie /t/1489541/large-ported-dayton-ho18s/800_100#post_24390946
Well I slipped when using my planer to take down an uneven edge. Dug right into the top board.. All glued already. Not sure if I want to live with this or risk tearing apart the box to replace the top piece. Sucks
let's play a little game...which one of these is my new furnace waiting for the weather to warm up enough to install and which ones are the martys waiting for drivers?
got everything done and inuke hooked up. Have channel A maxed out and not much bass coming from it, almost no mid bass. I'm 100% sure positive and negative are correctly hooked up. Does the Inuke require some setup to output much bass?
Edit- Even in bridged mode the bass is less than my old def tech sub. I just swapped the cables to be sure, and had a worse result. Cabinet is not leaking air anywhere. I can see the driver moving, and it hits low but not very loud. Inuke is maxed out, tried every power mode and still not much output..
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaPie /t/1489541/large-ported-dayton-ho18s/840#post_24391851
got everything done and inuke hooked up. Have channel A maxed out and not much bass coming from it, almost no mid bass. I'm 100% sure positive and negative are correctly hooked up. Does the Inuke require some setup to output much bass?
Edit- Even in bridged mode the bass is less than my old def tech sub. I just swapped the cables to be sure, and had a worse result. Cabinet is not leaking air anywhere. I can see the driver moving, and it hits low but not very loud. Inuke is maxed out, tried every power mode and still not much output..
You need a bump box like the Samson s convert or art cleanbox. I have my ipr 7500 hooked up with it and have my LFE set to -10 on receiver (lowest it'll go) and -15 on the gains on the front of the amp. Tons of bass (in my bedroom for now with 2 12s). Before I hooked up without it and had gain set to max on amp an +7 on receiver for it to sound balanced. I like my bass hot so I added the bump box.
"got everything done and inuke hooked up. Have channel A maxed out and not much bass coming from it, almost no mid bass. I'm 100% sure positive and negative are correctly hooked up. Does the Inuke require some setup to output much bass?
Edit- Even in bridged mode the bass is less than my old def tech sub. I just swapped the cables to be sure, and had a worse result. Cabinet is not leaking air anywhere. I can see the driver moving, and it hits low but not very loud. Inuke is maxed out, tried every power mode and still not much output.."
sounds like weak voltage coming from your avr. try increasing the subwoofer trim there.
I am just reminissing that one week ago tonight I ordered my 2 SI D4s and I will receive them tomorrow. This was based on a post here that said they might be sold out soon. Glad I listened!!!
I recalibrated audessy and it made a huge difference! Bass is much better now. However it seems to be lacking a little bit in the midrange, not sure how to tweak that in the inuke software, any suggestions?
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaPie /t/1489541/large-ported-dayton-ho18s/840#post_24392224
I recalibrated audessy and it made a huge difference! Bass is much better now. However it seems to be lacking a little bit in the midrange, not sure how to tweak that in the inuke software, any suggestions?
I'm getting into the red quite often on my inuke. 0 gain in the software, 0dB on receiver and 4 clicks from max on the inuke knob. Sometimes for several sustained seconds. Usual movie volume is -6.5dB. Think am in any danger?
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