Large Ported Dayton HO18's - Page 34 - AVS Forum
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post #991 of 1004 Old 04-07-2014, 06:54 PM
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Yes, 16-3/4" for the cutout. If you want to flush mount the woofer, that diameter would be 18-1/4".

I would match the port area to your first Marty Sub. for example, if your first Marty had a port area of 21" x 3" = 63 in^2.
Therefore, with the one-cut Marty using a port width of 22.5", the port height would be 63in^2 / 22.5" = 2.8" or ~2-3/4"

Then, with the port area matched, you can use the same port length as your first Marty and the tune will be the same! wink.gif

Good luck with the build!
Mike
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post #992 of 1004 Old 04-07-2014, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4seahorseman View Post

Full marty, one-cut stormtrooper version.


I agree with John. Your Marty Sub looks BAD ASS !!!!
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post #993 of 1004 Old 04-07-2014, 07:28 PM
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Thanks guys, I don't have the woodworking skills of Donny, far from it, but I am happy with how they came out. I think it is cool to see all the variations people come up with. I am in the design profession and tend to lean toward a contemporary look.
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post #994 of 1004 Old 04-07-2014, 07:55 PM
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As my students would say ,
You have mad skills bro:eek:
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post #995 of 1004 Old 04-08-2014, 02:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Finally got my 3rd MartySub finished, just need to install the driver. I went with a port that was 3" tall by 21" wide by 36" deep. I am hoping that tune works out nicely. The other two MartySubs that I built were with a 3" tall by 21" wide by 42" deep slot port. I plan to compare the two port options and see which I like best. The tops on my other two MartySubs are removable so I can open them up and trim or change the ports as necessary. I absolutely can not wait to get the driver installed and fire these babies up!

Since I will be powering these with a single iNuke3000 (non-DSP) per two MartySubs, one on each channel, how should the speakons be wired? Would it be: positive to +1 and negative to -1 on channel "A" then the same for channel "B"?

How should the switches on the back be set? Last question is what kind of screws do you guys like to use on these Dayton HO18's? I noticed that the holes on the driver are fairly large, so it will likely take a bigger screw, right?
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post #996 of 1004 Old 04-08-2014, 06:43 PM
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1 of 2 UXL full size Marty's. I went with the 3" vent opening. When I look in the vent... Oh my god, it's full of bass!!! I planned on making a grill but that UXL is so impressive, I kinda hate to cover it. The lens distortion on my iPhone makes the vents appear larger and the box look out of square.



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post #997 of 1004 Old 04-08-2014, 07:26 PM
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Marty , that is how my speakons are wired. After wandering the menards isles for way to long I ended up using this for mounting the drivers:

MM welcome to the family!
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post #998 of 1004 Old 04-09-2014, 04:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, got the driver mounted to the front baffle & wired with some left over 12/2 I had from redoing the wiring in my kitchen. All that is left to do is attach the speakon terminal to the enclosure and install the top! I can't wait to get these babies fired up!

Quick question, the speakon plug that I had is already assembled/put together, and I can't seem to figure out how to un connect it so that I can install the wire into it. I tried to hold down the plastic gray colored thing and twist it but I was unable to get the damn thing apart! Any suggestions on how to get the speakon plug apart?
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post #999 of 1004 Old 04-09-2014, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey_Man View Post

1 of 2 UXL full size Marty's. I went with the 3" vent opening. When I look in the vent... Oh my god, it's full of bass!!! I planned on making a grill but that UXL is so impressive, I kinda hate to cover it. The lens distortion on my iPhone makes the vents appear larger and the box look out of square.



Looking good monkey man!

 

One word.....

 

SINISTER!  

 

: )

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Link 1: All 3 Marty subs done, 6 week journey! Link 2: Quick Irule review with pics
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...k-journey.html
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/93-rem...ing-about.html
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post #1000 of 1004 Old 07-12-2014, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
as for gain...since it is *unlikely* that your avr will output *too much* voltage for the amp, go ahead and set the gains all the way up. then adjust the level using the subwoofer trim in the avr.

monitor it during some heavy bass scenes to ensure that you are clipping the heck out of the signal.
So you're saying max out the behringer gain and then adjust sub level in the avr? Or the reverse? I'm a bit concerned my avr is t putting out enough voltage and I was told to max my lfe level in my avr. No??
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post #1001 of 1004 Old 07-12-2014, 03:15 PM
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My 15" Ultimax "fake Marty"
Attached Images
File Type: jpg image.jpg (98.8 KB, 32 views)
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post #1002 of 1004 Old 07-13-2014, 05:33 AM - Thread Starter
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I am still loving my quad full sized MartySubs, but, something has been bugging me with regards to the cabinet sizes. My first two MartySubs were built using the handy panels from Home Depot, and being that my wood working skills are infinitely better now than they were back when I started this thread, my last two MartySubs I built to be exactly 48" long by 24" tall by 24" wide, and I used a 3" tall by 22.5" slot port that is 36" long. The handy panels are I believe long than 48" and slightly different on the width too as I believe that a sheet of MDF is 49" by ??

So basically the handy panel subs are not exactly 48" x 24" x 24", and because of this I can't help but wonder what the differences would be between the handy panel enclosures versus the exact enclosures, or if it would even matter?

(Note that I used the same slot port at 3" x 22.5" x 36" on both enclosures)
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post #1003 of 1004 Old 07-13-2014, 06:33 AM
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It's a small change in volume and port tune but not significant. Probably .25hz difference in tune max. I wouldn't worry about it.

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #1004 of 1004 Old 07-20-2014, 05:50 AM
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Ok, I've been reading these threads for months and I'm finally ready to build my own but have one question. I need to place the sub in a vertical position in the corner of my room behind the entertainment center. Do I need to build a 'vertical' box with the sub facing forward, or just stick with the regular box and sit it upright? Does it make a difference if the port is forward or up firing?
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