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post #181 of 1058 Old 09-16-2013, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

33 is heavy but not obnoxiously heavy. In all honesty I see no problem going with a course 7 2.5 or 3” screw with ply on the inside of your baffle.

kewl, so mdf on the outside and another 3/4 inch of ply on the inside.. that I can do.
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post #182 of 1058 Old 09-16-2013, 08:39 PM
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There's this thread about fasteners for attaching drivers to MDF that I've found useful in the past.
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post #183 of 1058 Old 09-16-2013, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

kewl, so mdf on the outside and another 3/4 inch of ply on the inside.. that I can do.

That will work fine. If you have the room you can double-up on the inside 3/4 with another layer of 1/2 or 3/4. That driver aint going nowhere trust me. smile.gif

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post #184 of 1058 Old 09-16-2013, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

That will work fine. If you have the room you can double-up on the inside 3/4 with another layer of 1/2 or 3/4. That driver aint going nowhere trust me. smile.gif


ahhh, yeah, glue a block of ply under the screw holes... would give it even more "beef" to hold onto


andy, thanks for the link. I kinda like the idea of threaded inserts since you can take it out if you need to do something to the inside or what not (fix a loose wire, drop a replacement driver in god forbid)
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post #185 of 1058 Old 09-16-2013, 09:10 PM
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andy, thanks for the link. I kinda like the idea of threaded inserts since you can take it out if you need to do something to the inside or what not (fix a loose wire, drop a replacement driver in god forbid)
Edited by wormraper - Today at 9:04 pm

I take drivers out all the time with the method I described, no problemo. A little extra length on your leads is a big help also. wink.gif

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post #186 of 1058 Old 09-16-2013, 09:13 PM
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The beauty of making a new baffle is that each time I get a little better. tongue.gif Plywood seems to be the key and an extra block glued to the underside for even more purchase is just the level of insurance I was looking for. Thanks for all the great suggestions and encouragement! smile.gif
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post #187 of 1058 Old 09-16-2013, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post

The beauty of making a new baffle is that each time I get a little better. tongue.gif Plywood seems to be the key and an extra block glued to the underside for even more purchase is just the level of insurance I was looking for. Thanks for all the great suggestions and encouragement! smile.gif

I used to strip a hole now and then with ID subs using straight MDF. A guy can place a couple of toothpicks in the screw hole and break them off and rescrew. The block or ring method inside the baffle is much better suited for these drivers though.

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post #188 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 07:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Update as of September 17rh.

I am almost done with box number 1. I just need to attach the front baffle and add the top plate. I would really like to double up the baffle with an extra layer of either MDF or Birch. How would adding another 3/4" baffle to the existing 3/4" baffle affect the dimensions? Is it ok to do that?

Also, I found some 8" PVC pipe, and was wondering how in the heck this could be used as a port? This 8" pipe is freaking huge! It would take up almost 1/3 of the baffle space, if not more! I am still planning on doing a slot port, but I am just curious as to how this 8" pipe would be implemented? I just can not see how using an 8" port would be possible as you can stick your whole arm down this thing!

Now i need to figure out what kind of connection i should use to connect the cabinets to the iNuke3000 amp. Does anyone know if this amp has binding post? or should i just use a Speakon connection? if i do use a speakon connection, which should i use. a 2 prong?

I will finish up enclosure #1 hopefully on Thursday!
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post #189 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 07:34 AM
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Yeah an 8 inch single port would require a bigger front baffle which is how a slot port originally came up for this build.

Also yes a double front baffle is how this sub was designed.

Use a 4 prong speak on connection for the inuke. I'm on my phone or I'd give you a link but the one you want is $3.15 on pe
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post #190 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 08:09 AM
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The only way to ad to your baffle is to ad another slab on the outside taking for granted your cutout that you have done fits your driver. You can port from the back but you want to be sure you have things drawn out before you move forward. Is the enclosure long enough? Have a plane as they say. I’m sorry I haven't been following that close so I take things for granted when you suggest when I do come by.

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post #191 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

The only way to ad to your baffle is to ad another slab on the outside taking for granted your cutout that you have done fits your driver. You can port from the back but you want to be sure you have things drawn out before you move forward. Is the enclosure long enough? Have a plane as they say. I’m sorry I haven't been following that close so I take things for granted when you suggest when I do come by.

he hasn't installed the front baffle yet, he can add one to the back of the cutout he's down right now...

and yes, it's long enough. the port is about 37 inches long and the enclosure is about 46-47 inches long
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post #192 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

he hasn't installed the front baffle yet, he can add one to the back of the cutout he's down right now...

and yes, it's long enough. the port is about 37 inches long and the enclosure is about 46-47 inches long

Oh that’s right, that’s a dry fit correct? adding to the inside will take up a little volume if it’s not calculated, but so little it wont matter. It seems like tune always comes in lower anyway. I do reiterate though, it’s good to have it drawn out first (Maybe it is and there was a change?) so a guy can plod methodically through it. Things will come up even doing that sometimes, so it is important instead of on the fly..

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post #193 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

Oh that’s right, that’s a dry fit correct? adding to the inside will take up a little volume if it’s not calculated, but so little it wont matter. It seems like tune always comes in lower anyway. I do reiterate though, it’s good to have it drawn out first (Maybe it is and there was a change?) so a guy can plod methodically through it. Things will come up even doing that sometimes, so it is important instead of on the fly..

lol, yeah LTD02 ran up a full sketchup drawing for this a few pages back. I've been experimenting with different bracing and baffling in it and re-doing calcs..adding an extra baffle is only 185 cu inches of space.. due to the cutout.. almost nothing. taken up.... plus double baffling was INCLUDED in the original dimensions and drawings so he's actually not going to lose any from the cu feet listed biggrin.gif
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post #194 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

lol, yeah LTD02 ran up a full sketchup drawing for this a few pages back. I've been experimenting with different bracing and baffling in it and re-doing calcs..adding an extra baffle is only 185 cu inches of space.. due to the cutout.. almost nothing. taken up.... plus double baffling was INCLUDED in the original dimensions and drawings so he's actually not going to lose any from the cu feet listed biggrin.gif

Thanks worm. I was wondering what was going on because I thought it was all worked out. We’re going to have to have a little talk with LTD. I certainly don’t want to be going back over the thread ev ery day to see what new direction Marty is going. You must know how easily I get confused. mad.gifbiggrin.gifcool.gif

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post #195 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 08:55 AM
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Is there any problem with adding the extra baffle on the outside? it would be much easier that way and he could still ad the blocks to the inside no problem. It appears the round has already been done for the driver, am I seeing things or is that the case?

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post #196 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 08:58 AM
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Is there any problem with adding the extra baffle on the outside? it would be much easier that way and he could still ad the blocks to the inside no problem.

not at all. since he hasn't installed the baffle at all he can make another baffle and glue them together. same thing really. both work just fine
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post #197 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 09:08 AM
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^^^ Ok great! When he glues the baffles together I suggest some screws to help aid in the connection along with the glue. A guy can do it from the inside which really helps in the finish process.

EDIT> I’m not suggesting this has to be done but it helps suck things up good along with the clamps.

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post #198 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Also, I found some 8" PVC pipe, and was wondering how in the heck this could be used as a port? This 8" pipe is freaking huge! It would take up almost 1/3 of the baffle space, if not more! I am still planning on doing a slot port, but I am just curious as to how this 8" pipe would be implemented? I just can not see how using an 8" port would be possible as you can stick your whole arm down this thing!!

8" port also requires a screen to keep the cat out of the subwoofer wink.gif
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post #199 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 11:54 AM
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Lol. I'll need a screen no matter what. Don't want kitty claws in the woofer itself
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post #200 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 12:13 PM
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"I am almost done with box number 1."

great!

"I just need to attach the front baffle and add the top plate. I would really like to double up the baffle with an extra layer of either MDF or Birch. How would adding another 3/4" baffle to the existing 3/4" baffle affect the dimensions? Is it ok to do that?"

yes. that was built in to the design.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1489541/large-ported-dayton-ho18s#post_23711347

"Also, I found some 8" PVC pipe, and was wondering how in the heck this could be used as a port? This 8" pipe is freaking huge!"

yeah...it is. :-) it could be used to port the sub using the rear panel if for some reason somebody wanted to do that.

"Now i need to figure out what kind of connection i should use to connect the cabinets to the iNuke3000 amp. Does anyone know if this amp has binding post? or should i just use a Speakon connection? if i do use a speakon connection, which should i use. a 2 prong?"

no binding post:



"I will finish up enclosure #1 hopefully on Thursday!"

i hope that you are taking some pictures marty!! everybody likes lots of pictures...

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post #201 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 12:14 PM
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"yeah LTD02 ran up a full sketchup drawing..."

haha...that was microsoft word. :-)~ but at least it was pretty much to scale.

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post #202 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

"yeah LTD02 ran up a full sketchup drawing..."

haha...that was microsoft word. :-)~ but at least it was pretty much to scale.

lol, it had "pitures" that be good nuff for me !! wink.gif
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post #203 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 10:01 PM
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I bought a 3/4" x 2' x 4' Baltic Birch Handy Panel at Home Depot today (after inspecting and rejecting 8 other panels that were warped nearly an inch eek.gif). I'm seriously considering building a double plywood front speaker baffle with this rather than MDF + Plywood, unless there are reasons I am not aware of for avoiding an all plywood front baffle.

Any comments? Are there any simple treatments to seal the cutout to prevent air leaks due to unrecognized voids? I was thinking I would fill any obvious voids with bondo before painting.

Thanks for all your support guys, I'm about to turn the corner for the home stretch... wink.gif

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post #204 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 10:22 PM
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http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-540

1/8" or 1/16" thickness depending on how rough the wood is.

as you know, mdf is a little easier to finish, but other than that, i don't see any advantage over ply.

how were you planning to finish them?

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post #205 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 10:29 PM
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Yes always use gasket tape to seal the woofer hole. Works like a charm
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post #206 of 1058 Old 09-17-2013, 11:16 PM
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Any comments? Are there any simple treatments to seal the cutout to prevent air leaks due to unrecognized voids? I was thinking I would fill any obvious voids with bondo before painting.

No you will be fine if care is taken like mentioned, it’s not that critical. Painting? it will be harder to paint though smile.gif

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post #207 of 1058 Old 09-18-2013, 08:19 AM - Thread Starter
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With regards to making a double 3/4 " baffle,...are the baffle cutouts indentical on both the inside & outside baffle?

I am unfortunately going to have to buy a new router as the brand new, really nice and high end router that I purchased from Sears is missing a part where the bit would normally go. Can anyone suggest a cheap router that I can purchase to get me by ok this project until I can get my Craftsman router functionioning again.

With regards to the connections from the driver to the terminal cup, then from the terminal cup to the amp, can I use 4 prong speakon for all of this? Do the speakon terminal cups from Parts Express offer a 4 prong connection that way I don't have to use two different types of speakon wires?
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post #208 of 1058 Old 09-18-2013, 08:39 AM
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With regards to making a double 3/4 " baffle,...are the baffle cutouts identical on both the inside & outside baffle?>> Yes if the driver is going to seat ( on) the outside baffle. No if the driver is going to be countersunk. You would want the cutout slightly larger than the outside of the driver mount.

I am unfortunately going to have to buy a new router as the brand new, really nice and high end router that I purchased from Sears is missing a part where the bit would normally go. Can anyone suggest a cheap router that I can purchase to get me by ok this project until I can get my Craftsman router functionioning again..>> How about a Ryobi plunge? I have had one and it got me by just fine.

With regards to the connections from the driver to the terminal cup, then from the terminal cup to the amp, can I use 4 prong speakon for all of this? Do the speakon terminal cups from Parts Express offer a 4 prong connection that way I don't have to use two different types of speakon wires?>> I’m not familiar.. I would not think that the leads running to your driver need to be the same as to your amp though, not in my builds anyway. In your case maybe so though??

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post #209 of 1058 Old 09-18-2013, 06:06 PM
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I use the 4-Wire Speakon connectors, but I only use two wires to the 1+ and 1- terminals. I leave the 2+ and 2- connectors open. This worked just fine with my Cheap Thrills, however, my amp uses terminal posts rather than Speakon connectors. The User's manual for your amp should describe whether all 4 wires are connected or just two. Here are the parts that I use:
Neutrik NL4MPR Neutrik NL4FRX

I flush mount the receptacle using a 2" and 1" hole saw and a router. First I use the 2" hole saw and cut just a fraction below the teeth, then I use a 1" hole saw to cut the through hole for the body of the receptacle. Then I use a router to make a flat surface between the 2" cut and the 1" hole. Like this:
You might be able to get a closer fit with hole saws that are a 1/16" smaller, but I did not want to buy more hole saws just for this. You could probably use the Jasper Jig to do the routing and skip the 2" cut, but I did not have one when I first devised this method.

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post #210 of 1058 Old 09-18-2013, 06:12 PM
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Hey LTD and Worm,

I use the 1/2 foam sealing tape you mentioned for the surface of the woofer mounting flange. What I was worrying about was leaks through the plys from along the edge of the cutout. This type of leak was described in one of the other threads...

Thanks though,
Mike
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