2x SEOS Fusion-12 Tempest + Fusion-8 Alchemy MTM build thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 65 Old 09-12-2013, 03:07 PM - Thread Starter
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I’ve been lurking around DIY forum for a while and reading all SEOS build threads and finally decided to take a plunge and placed an order a couple of weeks ago for two SEOS Tempest-12 and Fusion-8 Alchemy MTM kits.

Since I had a couple of weeks while waiting for my order to arrive I decided to build the boxes myself instead of ordering the flat-packs.

Here is the picture of Alchemy MTM box. Be gentle, this my first attempt at building speaker boxes from scratch.
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Finally, part of my order showed up yesterday at my door. The finished cross-overs should arrive on Friday.
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Gotta love Fedex. Instead of putting 85lb boxes next to a box with fruits that my wife ordered from a local farm they decided to park it right on top of it. Lucky no fruit was harmed during this stunt.
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Got all the stuff unpack from well packaged boxes and attached CDs to the waveguides.
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Rough cut the front baffles.
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Glued the supplied front baffle and will be flush trimming today.
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post #2 of 65 Old 09-13-2013, 04:45 AM
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Did the pre-made baffles from DIYSG not come flush? Why would you have to trim them?
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post #3 of 65 Old 09-13-2013, 05:29 AM
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pretty sure he means flush trimming them to the inner baffle he made,
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post #4 of 65 Old 09-13-2013, 08:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Sibuna is correct. I flushed trimmed them to the inner baffle I made. Here is what I ended up with:
275523

I also glued the internal bracket
275524

Next on the list is to cut holes for binding post, roundover on the outside and glue a piece of scrap wood on the inside.I want my binding post recessed.

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post #5 of 65 Old 09-16-2013, 08:54 AM - Thread Starter
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I had a somewhat productive weekend. Cut holes for the binding post and did a roundover on the outside. Dry fitting the bining posts:
277123

All three boxes together:
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Glued the front baffle to the box and roundover edges:
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Looks like I found a good spot for the crossover:
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Now I need to figure out how to attach it to the box since I don’t want to glue it permanently. Two options I’m considering are:
1)Use industrial strength Velcro
2)Use t-nuts and bolts

Any other suggestions?

At this point I’m done with the saw dust part and moving to paint and assembly. I’m really glad to be done with the saw dust part of the project. I think I underestimated the amount of efforts it is going to take to finish these boxes. I probably spent 12-18 hours putting these three boxes together, granted some of that time was spend fixing mistakes I made and learning along the way. Next time I’ll probably go with the flat-packs (Who am I kidding, I will never learn
and will repeat the whole process again).

Purchased three grill frame kits from PE and will be putting them together this week:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-346

I also got my order of 1.5inch eggcrate foam from foambymail.com which I need to cut and glue to the inside of the boxes.

I also ordered a gallon of Duratex which should arrive this week but I’m now questioning my decision, these are big boxes and painting them all black might not win any points with my wife and get them approve for the living room use. I would have like to veneer them but I have never done this before. Maybe time to learn some new skills again?

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post #6 of 65 Old 09-16-2013, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amo76 View Post

I also ordered a gallon of Duratex which should arrive this week but I’m now questioning my decision, these are big boxes and painting them all black might not win any points with my wife and get them approve for the living room use. I would have like to veneer them but I have never done this before. Maybe time to learn some new skills again?

I can't quite tell from the photos -- have you rounded over all the cabinet edges? That would make it quite challenging to veneer. You can wrap paper backed veneer around a radiused corner but you really need the edges that intersect the radiused edge to be square so you can terminate the veneer. If you were going to wrap veneer around the sides and front of the cabinet, for example, the edges joining the sides to the front would be radiused, but the edges on the top and bottom of the cabinet would be square.

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post #7 of 65 Old 09-16-2013, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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I see what you are saying. I did round over the edges. Another woodworking lesson learned. I guess I'll have to stick with Duratex or look for another creative way to paint/stain MDF. Maybe something like this?

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post #8 of 65 Old 09-16-2013, 11:44 AM
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make sure the port tube clears the xover if that is where you plan on putting it. remember you have to attach some wires to it. IMO better to place it on the back wall near the binfing posts

I used industrial velcro
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post #9 of 65 Old 09-16-2013, 12:32 PM - Thread Starter
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I did check it and the port tube clears the xover. I don't really like the idea of the xover on the side but if I go with this option I'll use t-nuts and bolts to make sure that it never falls off.

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post #10 of 65 Old 09-16-2013, 12:55 PM
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You might want to add some extra bracing to tie the sides together right around the mid point of that woofer.
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post #11 of 65 Old 09-16-2013, 03:54 PM - Thread Starter
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It should be easy to-do. I just need to make sure that the woofer fits with the extra bracing.

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post #12 of 65 Old 09-17-2013, 08:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Erich,

Would this be enough or do I need more bracing? I should probably do the same for Alchemy MTM, should have thought about that yesterday.

277886

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post #13 of 65 Old 09-17-2013, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is what I decided to do to attach the xover to the box:
277888
277889

I’ll glue the pieces with t-nuts to the box while they are attached to the xover to make sure that everything aligns perfectly and will be able to remove the xover whenever I want.

I think I’m going to install the xover on the back as Sibuna suggested. Here is what I’m thinking:
277890

I also cut the eggcrate foam yesterday.

From this:
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To this:
277892

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post #14 of 65 Old 09-17-2013, 09:19 AM - Thread Starter
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I thought a little more about staining the boxes using the technique I linked to above but I think it wouldn’t work for me. I wasn’t really careful with the wood glue and I now have bunch of smears on the boxes that I’m afraid are not going to stain well unless I sand them off which is b… when it comes to wood glue stains. Next time I’m going to use masking tape to prevent wood glue smears.
I also used wood filler to cover some imperfections which might show through after I stain. I guess I can always try and if it doesn’t work I can just take the shameful way out and cover the entire box in Duratex.

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post #15 of 65 Old 09-17-2013, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amo76 View Post

I thought a little more about staining the boxes using the technique I linked to above but I think it wouldn’t work for me. I wasn’t really careful with the wood glue and I now have bunch of smears on the boxes that I’m afraid are not going to stain well unless I sand them off which is b… when it comes to wood glue stains. Next time I’m going to use masking tape to prevent wood glue smears.I also used wood filler to cover some imperfections which might show through after I stain. I guess I can always try and if it doesn’t work I can just take the shameful way out and cover the entire box in Duratex.

I would.never use minwax. Why not rent a palm. Sander and touch it up. If you want a good finish just let me know.and I will give you instructions .
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post #16 of 65 Old 09-18-2013, 08:41 AM - Thread Starter
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What stain would you recommend? I have a palm sender. It would be great if you could give me instructions.

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post #17 of 65 Old 09-18-2013, 08:48 AM
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whats wrong with minwax? i used it on my TV stand and the Fusion 8s i built, things came out great?

however those were both wood grain, i would not use a stain on MDF
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post #18 of 65 Old 09-18-2013, 09:12 AM - Thread Starter
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I used minwax as well before and results were ok. I couldn't really compare it to anything else since I haven't tried any other brand of stain. I'm getting anxious to finish my build since the only thing that is left is to paint the boxes. Duratex is arriving tomorrow. I'm a weak man. I might just give in to my temptations to paint boxes black and call it a day. Maybe do version 2.0 using baltic birch ply and stain.

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post #19 of 65 Old 09-18-2013, 09:19 AM - Thread Starter
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I finally decided to take a closer look at speaker grills kit I got from PE. These things are huge. I should have read this line of description "•Great for large PA or vintage speakers" before purchasing them. Tempests are not small speakers but the grills look big even for them. Is there a more compact version of such kit available from another retailer?

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post #20 of 65 Old 09-18-2013, 10:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Small updated. I installed vertical braces in MTM and glued the xovers to the boxes.
278480
278481

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post #21 of 65 Old 09-19-2013, 08:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Decided to keep the speaker grill frame kits I purchased from PE and spent the evening yesterday putting them together.
278981

I didn't really need to purchase three kits, two would have been enough but I should have purchased an extra T-Joint Kit for Alchemy MTM. I am going to order one today.

Duratex is arriving today and I'll start painting my boxes. How long does it takes for it to dry before I can apply the second coat?

I'm starting to see the finish line or is it a mirage?

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post #22 of 65 Old 09-20-2013, 09:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Yesterday I applied 3 coats of Duratex and ended up with this nice orange peel finish (except my damn hair that I just noticed today on the picture). I used 4 inch nap roller from HD to apply it. I have to agree with all the raving reviews for Duratex. It was pretty easy to apply and it dried pretty fast. I probably only use 1/8 of a gallon and have plenty left. I guess I have to build something else now since I have all these Duratex leftovers.

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279545

I also started to dry fit the foam inside the boxes and I'm going to glue it today using spray adhesive.

I have a question regarding ports, on MTM (see the first pic) should I trim the foam to make sure that it stays away a couple of inches from the back of the ports?

Hopefully, I'll be able to put everything together today and finally be able to listen to these bad boys.

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post #23 of 65 Old 09-21-2013, 09:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Finished all three speakers yesterday. Listening to them now. These boys sing. Will post pictures and listening impressions latter.

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post #24 of 65 Old 09-21-2013, 08:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I ran Audyssey on my Onkyo and Tempest got xover set to 150hz, is it expected? MTM got 90hz. How long it takes for these drivers to break in?

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post #25 of 65 Old 09-21-2013, 09:56 PM
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Give your drivers a couple weeks to break-in. No hurry.
Your cabinet work, by the way, is EXCELLENT!
Your pix are very useful too.
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post #26 of 65 Old 09-22-2013, 07:58 AM
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- Here's something to ponder ( some info from Eminence ) ; Speaker Break-in !

- The Delta-Pro may ship ( stock ) from Eminence with a really stiff spider ( ie; needing break-in before the published specs are met ) & robbing the woofer of proper bass extension . Granted this is simply conjecture at this point without seeing an actual measurement of the TS parameters .

- One can always speed-up the break-in process by running a continuous 30hz tone ( with your woofers mounted in the cabinets ).

- Turn it up to the point where you visually see @ a 1/4" of cone movement ( total / both-ways ) and then leave playing for 12 hrs .

smile.gif
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post #27 of 65 Old 09-22-2013, 08:11 AM
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I'd personally break in woofers out of the cabinet using low frequency tones. No damping and you get a lot of cancellation, so you don't hear a loud sine wave driving you crazy all day.
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post #28 of 65 Old 09-22-2013, 08:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is the picture of the finished speakers:

LL

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post #29 of 65 Old 09-23-2013, 03:12 AM
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Awesome! beautiful work. cool.gif

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post #30 of 65 Old 09-24-2013, 10:29 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm still trying to figure out my bass issues but at this point everything points to my room being a culprit. I'm going to move speakers to a different room and take measurements there to see whether I can get different results.
I need to start working on the stands for my new speakers. Previously (you can see one in the picture under Alchemy MTM) I used PVC to build legs fo my DIY stands but I was thinking doing something different this time.
I'm thinking about cutting 3 inch strips of MDF and glueing 4 of them together to give me 3"x3" piece that I can cut to length to use as legs.

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