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post #31 of 46 Old 09-16-2013, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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thank you very much. what would you recommend for screws? size/length? looks like I can squeeze this box out of one sheet of mdf which will be nice. can't wait until the weekend to start. and again I appreciate it.
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post #32 of 46 Old 09-16-2013, 09:03 PM
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no problem. looks like fun. just be sure to brace it up pretty solid.

glue is actually the way to go. if you are really good at the cuts and they fit flush, titebond ii wood glue is fine. if your cuts leave lots of air gaps, then pl premium expanding adhesive is the way to go. pl is a bit of a mess to work with, but super strong and it expands as it cures so can fill in gaps between panels and you want the cabinet to be air tight.

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post #33 of 46 Old 09-16-2013, 09:46 PM
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don't forget to put a little bit of your stank on it...i.e. make it your own. :-)


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post #34 of 46 Old 09-16-2013, 09:49 PM
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and just a heads up...be sure to SEAL the mdf with a non-water-based primer/sealer BEFORE applying paint or you won't be happy. mdf soaks up paint like a sponge otherwise.

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post #35 of 46 Old 09-16-2013, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

and just a heads up...be sure to SEAL the mdf with a non-water-based primer/sealer BEFORE applying paint or you won't be happy. mdf soaks up paint like a sponge otherwise.

unless of course using Duratex.. then apply straight over the mdf
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post #36 of 46 Old 09-16-2013, 11:43 PM
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I wonder if it will actually do those numbers.



pic of back shows bridged mode operation.

has soft start.

dc and overheat protection.

rca inputs and input voltage selection for consumer/pro.

maybe it is a sleeper?

no high pass built in though...which is what I was looking for.

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post #37 of 46 Old 09-17-2013, 07:27 AM - Thread Starter
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What do you mean a sleeper? Do I need a high pass?
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post #38 of 46 Old 09-17-2013, 01:38 PM - Thread Starter
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A few more questions for you. Will any PL adhesive work or is their a special kind? I'm trying to get everything locally instead of buying stuff online. I plan on using pl adhesive and pre drilling and using some coarse thread drywall screws. I'm following the design you gave the link to for most of the bracing. I was also wondering about if I should insulate the inside. I was thinking of using some poly fill batten stuff Walmart has just not sure if I should use 1 or 2 inch thick, plan on attaching it to the inside walls with HD spray adhesive that I've used to re carpet cars with. For mounting the speaker I was going to use t nuts just not sure which size yet until I get the sub. For paint.....I love spray paint, especially neon green lol
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post #39 of 46 Old 09-17-2013, 03:02 PM
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This is the one I used for my enclosures

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL-Premium-10-fl-oz-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive-1390595/202020473

 

A ported enclosure should have the inside walls lined with polyfill/insulation and sealed enclosures should be stuffed.

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post #40 of 46 Old 09-17-2013, 03:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Should I use 1" or 2" thick poly fill?
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post #41 of 46 Old 09-17-2013, 03:14 PM
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I'm not sure but I would go with 2".

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post #42 of 46 Old 09-17-2013, 03:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Sounds good. I don't even have the sub yet, just trying to get the box pieces cut and everything together
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post #43 of 46 Old 09-17-2013, 07:56 PM
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post #44 of 46 Old 09-17-2013, 08:01 PM
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alternative to t-nuts: http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsWood/softWood.html

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post #45 of 46 Old 09-17-2013, 08:06 PM
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"What do you mean a sleeper?"

i meant that it might perform a little better than the pyle badging might suggest...a good thing. we'll see.

"Do I need a high pass?"

it would be recommended, just in case you get carried away with a track that has super low infrasonics that would cause the driver to flop around uncontrollably. that content is actually filtered out in most recordings, so if you know your recordings, you don't need it. it is more of a precautionary device, but still a good idea. a high pass filter in the 20-30hz ballpark will offer infrasonic protection (stuff below 20hz and that is what would be mostly to damage the drivers in this configuration).

"I plan on using pl adhesive and pre drilling and using some coarse thread drywall screws."

ah, that will work great.

" For paint.....I love spray paint, especially neon green lol"

lol, neon green is certainly some real stank! :-)


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post #46 of 46 Old 09-18-2013, 03:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey if you ever get bored and decide to build a folded horn cab with some neon green stank I know where you could ship it ;-)
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