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post #1 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 05:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Could someone please model an enclosure for me for this subwoofer. I'd really appreciate it. I'm having a heck of a time trying to figure out this enclosure program people use on here. I would kind of like a simple ported box if it's possible. Thanks again

http://reaudio.com/products/woofers_sex.php

It's the 15" dual 4 ohm model.
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post #2 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 05:29 PM
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what application car/home/music/movies?

do you have the driver?

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post #3 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 05:59 PM - Thread Starter
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No I do not have the drivers yet sorry. they are car subwoofers and I would like to make a couple subwoofer cabinets for them for my basement. they would primarily be used for music. any help is much appreciated, thank you
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post #4 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 06:21 PM - Thread Starter
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What I have is a pre amp receiver running 4 in ceiling speakers in my basement right now. I also just traded an rack mount amp and some old 15" subs for a rack mount 5100 watt amp. I have a bar and pool table and a 60" tv in my basement. I like to throw get togethers on the weekends and kind of party. What I'm getting now from my stereo sounds great but its all highs, I want to add a couple 15" subs on a budget to get some good bass down there. The amp I have is 2 ohm stable so I wanted a couple 4 ohm dvc subs to run down to 2 ohm and make a couple cabinets to kake them sound good. I'm open to getting different subs to use but would like to only spend about 120 $ a piece if possible.
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post #5 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 06:24 PM
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What is the amp u got now?
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post #6 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Its a pyle-pro pqa5100. A friend of mine has a pile of pyle receivers, amps and speakers. He has the same amp in his house but on 4 loudspeakers and sounds good but not enough bass from the speakers which are 15" pyle loudspeakers.
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post #7 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 06:38 PM
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Ahh. Yeah if its a Pyle pro amp its probably only getting 1000-2000 watts not 5000. Pyle is famous for that
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post #8 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 06:53 PM - Thread Starter
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That's fine with me, it was free. Even the stuff I traded back to him he gave to me in the first place lol. It will still run a couple 15" subs pretty well. The RE subs I'm looking at are 600 rms and have high excursion, that's why I thought they would be nice for a basement subwoofer setup but I could be wrong.
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post #9 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 08:07 PM
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just out of curiosity, how large can you go and how good are you at cutting wood?

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post #10 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 08:09 PM
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while perhaps not this one in particular, do you think that you might be able to piece something like this together? if so, you can get a whole lotta bass...for not much money.

http://forum.speakerplans.com/cerwin-vega-l36-pe_topic2217.html

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post #11 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 08:37 PM - Thread Starter
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If I could get a decent priced sub or 2 I could build the box as long as it isn't a super complicated box. I can go as large as my budget will allow.
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post #12 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 08:39 PM - Thread Starter
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I would like to use a 4 ohm dvc sub though as the amp pushes the most at 2 ohms and being it is a pyle amp ill need the extra output
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post #13 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 09:16 PM
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http://www.cerwinvega.com/pro-audio/folded-horn-subwoofer/folded-horn-subwoofer-series.html

this is a front loaded horn. they can really provide maximum blasting for minimum coin and power. they are just a little more difficult to build than a ported sub, which would be the next in line.

if you just want to go with a ported cab, then something like this is the direction that I can help you with...

http://www.cerwinvega.com/images/Products/pseries/p1800sx_angle.jpg

18" pro woofer, slot ported cab, that is how music bass is made professionally. :-)

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post #14 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 09:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Well the first link I actually really like, folded horn looks mean as hell. Problem is... I'd never be able to build that lol. Now the second link, a ported cab might be more doable. Yes I have access to tools and I'm not an idiot but have never built anything that was supposed to be real specific. So what driver should I buy? Or could I get more sound from say 4 smaller than one or two large?
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post #15 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 09:48 PM
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ok, no problem...all we need now is to find a driver and a cab...one sec.

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post #16 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 09:52 PM
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just in case you want to sleep on the idea here is a plan for a front loaded horn:

http://www.eighteensound.com/staticContent/applications/kits/18Sound_kit18_Horn.pdf

:-)

back in a minute...

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post #17 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 09:53 PM
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here is a basic plan for a front loaded slot ported 18" cabinet:

http://www.eighteensound.com/staticContent/applications/kits/18Sound_kit18.pdf

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post #18 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 09:56 PM
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this would be a great driver for it:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=294-675

one per cab. two cabs total.

wired in parallel for 4 ohms.

run amp in bridge mode for 4 ohms same as 2 ohms per channel.

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post #19 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 10:00 PM
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two cabs.

each cab 8 cubic feet (approx. 2' x 2' x 2.5' ), slot port tuned to 33hz, 500 watts per driver.

~128db across the bass. that is REALLY REALLY LOUD.


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post #20 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 10:01 PM
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those drivers are really nice too and will play clean up to 150hz or higher so can help make up for main speakers that might be a little wimpy.

either somebody around here or i can help with the exact dimensions of the cabinet and the tuning of the slot if you decide it would be what you want.

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post #21 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 10:10 PM
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btw, something like those subs is what metallica actually uses for their concerts. of course, they use more than two. :-) but still...that is the level of gear...good stuff.

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post #22 of 46 Old 09-14-2013, 10:17 PM
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i happen to have the srx 15" loaded up, quite similar to the sex. dual 4 cubic sealed cabs and 500 watts per driver for comparison:



the b&c setup offers about 6db more spl.

to get that much you'd have to double the number of drivers and power of the 15's, so it is essentially a 2:1 performance advantage.

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post #23 of 46 Old 09-15-2013, 04:02 PM - Thread Starter
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So I'm thinking I'll start with 1 of them 18" subs and building 1 cab for now, just to make sure I'm not getting in over my head. You said you could help me with the dimensions of the cab and port tuning? I'd really appreciate it. Also can them woofers can handle a 4 ohm load when I hook a second one up in parallel? The enclosure you posted the link for said to use something other than mdf, can I use mdf? Also should I get a low pass filter of some sort to block any highs it might get? I know nothing about low and high pass filters
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post #24 of 46 Old 09-16-2013, 01:49 AM
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the dimensions and port tuning aren't all that difficult for something like this. we can take a look at a few options and find something that you like in the next day or so...

the driver is designed to operate constantly at 1200 watts of power, so two of them can handle 2400 watts of power. that is quite a bit more than you have on hand, so you'll be more than fine.

the suggestion to avoid mdf is because those cabs are expected to be used in places where they will be rained on or have drinks spilled on them or any other thing you can imagine and mdf and liquid don't mix well at all. in some ways plywood is easier to work with, in other ways mdf has some advantages. what you choose to use won't impact performance.

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post #25 of 46 Old 09-16-2013, 01:51 AM
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we'll take a look at your receiver and amp and see what crossover capability they have built in. the receiver will typically have what you need to integrate them with the main speakers.

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post #26 of 46 Old 09-16-2013, 02:01 AM
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if you do a google image search for : B&C 18PS76

you'll see it is very popular to put that driver in that kind of cab. might start think'n about how you'd like to finish them and some design elements such as if you want to make grills, if you want to have a recessed driver, handles, etc.

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post #27 of 46 Old 09-16-2013, 02:14 AM
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this is kind of funny: http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Custom-Single-18-Vented-1-MDF-Heavy-Duty-Subwoofer-Enclosure-Sub-Box-HP118V

very close to what I modeled up. dimensions already done. :-) that was easy.

if you like that one, it will work. just need to double check the cutout to make sure it is exactly right for the b&c driver. and more bracing!


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post #28 of 46 Old 09-16-2013, 02:51 AM
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or a custom like this:



in any case, pretty simple build. oh, forgot to put in the picture, the slot port is 3" tall.

slot port has a single vertical brace down the middle that runs all the way to the back of the cabinet.

lots of bracing would be a good idea. :-) it doesn't really matter how you choose to do the bracing, just try to not let any section of a panel be larger than about 1 square foot without any bracing on it.

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post #29 of 46 Old 09-16-2013, 03:01 AM
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post #30 of 46 Old 09-16-2013, 03:07 AM
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Done!


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