Please help with subwoofer enclosure design - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 09-17-2013, 09:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey everyone, thanks in advance for the input. I am new to the forum and looking for help designing an enclosure. I am running (2) 15" solobaric L3 subwoofers powered by a kicker kx 600.1 mono amplifier. I will be using a trip lite PR-60 converter to power the DC amplifier. The converter output is 60A @ 13.8VDC. I am using a home stereo sub out channel for the amplifier, and using the the receivers Front L/R Rear L/R outputs for (4) speakers in the ceiling. I know many people will advise against mixing home and car audio. Please refrain from criticism on this build, there may be better options, cheaper options etc, but I like to tinker with stuff and this is something that I just have to try!!

I have drawn up some sketches of the design. It will go into a corner section of my basement.
26" sides from the corner of the wall
3x15.5 opening x 22" deep port per sub
5.0ft^3 per sub excluding port volume, divider, braces ect
up to 80" high ( ceiling clearance)

I need some help dialing in the design and getting the panel dimensions exact for the volume to work out right per chamber. I will be using 3/4 MDF board for the material.

sub specs
http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/files/2011%20L3%20Multilingual%20Rev%20B.pdf

Scan0007.jpg 693k .jpg file Scan0008.jpg 971k .jpg file


Any help getting this design dialed in would be appreciated. Thanks Casey
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post #2 of 12 Old 09-17-2013, 09:18 PM
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sounds interesting...what were you looking for assistance with?

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post #3 of 12 Old 09-17-2013, 09:38 PM - Thread Starter
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sorry, I had accidentally submitted the post earlier before I finished it..
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post #4 of 12 Old 09-18-2013, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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The scanned files in the first post are hand sketches of what I am trying to build. I have access to an engineering design shop where I go to school. We have a vertical panel saw, cnc router and the works. I can make any cuts. I need help with how and where to brace the box, calculating the panel dimensions to get the volume right at 5 cubic feet per chamber. The volume excludes port volume, braces, and the divider to separate the subs chambers. Thanks guys
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post #5 of 12 Old 09-18-2013, 12:09 PM
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the way that you have it drawn from the top looks right. if the front "sides" are 13" each the driver baffle will be around 18.4" so that should be fine for mounting the driver.

looking down from the top, the dimensions are 26" square - the diagonal for the driver baffle - the slot port - the panel widths all around.

if using 3/4" thick wood, that gets you to a 24.5" square inner dimension, which is about 600 square inches.

then take 7/8 of that for the corner that is chopped off where the baffle will mount, so that leaves about 525 square inches.

then we have to remove the port area, which as you have drawn it is about 21.25" x 3.75", so that is another 80 square inches.

that leaves the net area of the inside base at roughly 445 square inches, or about 3.1 square feet.

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post #6 of 12 Old 09-18-2013, 12:12 PM
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so for 5 cubic feet, simple take 5.0 divided by 3.1 for the inside height and that is 1.61 feet tall.

1.61 feet is about 19 inches. so two chambers that are 19 inches is 38 inches and 3 sheet of mdf one for the bottom, one in the middle, and one on top give a total of right around 40 inches total height.

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post #7 of 12 Old 09-18-2013, 12:14 PM
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the drawings look very accurate.

as for the actual panel cutouts, that is up to you, because it will vary depending on which panels butt up against which others.

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post #8 of 12 Old 09-18-2013, 12:20 PM
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here is what i mean. the panel lengths will change depending on how you choose to butt them together.

it doesn't matter which way you do it.




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post #9 of 12 Old 09-18-2013, 12:31 PM
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i just checked and that cab will be tuned to around 30hz. looks like you grabbed that plan from the manual. that would be good for music.

if using this for home theater, you may wish to tune a little lower, perhaps 22-25hz or so.
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post #10 of 12 Old 09-18-2013, 02:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow man, thanks for the input. I do plan on using this primarily for music. So with the overall height being around 40 inches - .75 base - .75 divider - .75 top= 37.75 The two ports will have to be sealed on one side( meaning the 15.5 inches wont mate to the divider) Do I just cut another 2 pieces of wood 3x21.25 to close off the ports? There will be a void between the port and the divider in each chamber, is that something to design around or no problem? thank you again.
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post #11 of 12 Old 09-18-2013, 03:20 PM - Thread Starter
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I have drawn it up in solidworks using the 13 inch sides, and 40 inches height. Does this look about right?




Part1 drawing.JPG 92k .JPG file

solidworks drawing box.JPG 124k .JPG file
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post #12 of 12 Old 09-18-2013, 09:17 PM
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"Do I just cut another 2 pieces of wood 3x21.25 to close off the ports?"

I understand your question. yes.

"There will be a void between the port and the divider in each chamber, is that something to design around or no problem?"

no problem. the inside of a subwoofer and more or less be any shape, what matters the most is the volume of the enclosure and even there, there is some wiggle room.

"thank you again."

no problem. :-)

............................

one thing that you will want to do is brace the subwoofer walls well. it doesn't really matter how you do that. a search on subwoofer bracing on google 'images' will pull up thousands of ideas.

another thing that is common is to put a brace in the slot port that runs the length of the slot and just make the slot 3/4" wider than original spec.

here is a bracing plan: http://www.avsforum.com/t/170942/very-high-quality-diy-speakers-anywhere/2340#post_7159099

kind of similar to yours. :-)

also, don't jam up the port against the inside rear wall of the enclosure or it won't function properly. be sure to leave about 3 inches or so from the end of the port to the back wall. it can be a little less, but don't make it something like 1 inch or anything.

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