SEOS Fusion 10 Pure Assembly - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 36 Old 09-20-2013, 06:17 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
cogeng182's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Richland, WA
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
This will be a simple picture summary of the assembly as it developes. I know these assemblies have been covered already multiple times but i'm too excited not to post a few pics.
Got the speaker kits and flat packs today. biggrin.gif I couldn't find screws for the woofers, I know they are not floating around in the boxes or attached to the waveguides but I will keep looking.

The gluing has begun.




Question: How thick of material should I use to line the boxes? Polybatting or recycled cotton or some other material?
cogeng182 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 36 Old 09-20-2013, 06:51 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 15,924
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Liked: 835
great idea!

...


2-3 inches thick of fiberglass would be good.

others will have other opinions.

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is online now  
post #3 of 36 Old 09-20-2013, 07:13 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Sibuna's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Western NY
Posts: 1,762
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 175
check inside one of the boxes for the compression drivers for the screwes, or with the Xover parts,
Sibuna is online now  
post #4 of 36 Old 09-20-2013, 07:28 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
cogeng182's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Richland, WA
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I searched all of the boxes, but no mounting screws besides the ones for the compression driver to waveguide connection. I wonder if the big box stores will have black Hex socket wood screws, doubtful. Should I pick up #8 x 1" ?
cogeng182 is offline  
post #5 of 36 Old 09-20-2013, 07:30 PM
AVS Special Member
 
wormraper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson Arizona
Posts: 4,098
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by cogeng182 View Post

I searched all of the boxes, but no mounting screws besides the ones for the compression driver to waveguide connection. I wonder if the big box stores will have black Hex socket wood screws, doubtful. Should I pick up #8 x 1" ?

hmmm, the screws that I was sent for mine was just standard 1 inch black wood screws. you can get robinson bit screws under the cabinetry section of HD or Lowes though.
wormraper is online now  
post #6 of 36 Old 09-20-2013, 07:53 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Erich H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cincinnati OH
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 130 Post(s)
Liked: 429
I normally put them in the box with the crossover parts. But if you ordered the assembled crossovers, there's no box to put the screws in, so I sometimes put the little bag inside one of the ports before wrapping it up. That's also where I put the gasket material for the back of the waveguides.
Erich H is offline  
post #7 of 36 Old 09-20-2013, 08:21 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
cogeng182's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Richland, WA
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I found the gasket material and the binding posts I ordered inside the ports but no screws. It is also totally possible that they got stuck to some of the paper and tape wrapped around the ports and got tossed in the garbage. No biggy, have to go pick up some other supplies anyway wink.gif

And thanks for the kits, they came much faster than I expected.
cogeng182 is offline  
post #8 of 36 Old 09-21-2013, 09:12 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
cogeng182's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Richland, WA
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Progress. Titebond is messy.
cogeng182 is offline  
post #9 of 36 Old 09-21-2013, 11:25 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
cogeng182's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Richland, WA
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Next question. Installing the ports, do I need to seal them to the baffle, or just glue them in, or just knock them in with a mallet and call it good?
cogeng182 is offline  
post #10 of 36 Old 09-21-2013, 11:27 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Erich H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cincinnati OH
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 130 Post(s)
Liked: 429
Installing the ports should be one of the last things you do after you get the baffles installed. They'll be tight enough to just push them in. I guess you could use some glue or silicone if you really wanted to, but they seal up pretty good on their own.
Erich H is offline  
post #11 of 36 Old 09-21-2013, 11:41 AM
AVS Special Member
 
tuxedocivic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Ladysmith, BC
Posts: 4,358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 154 Post(s)
Liked: 426
Install them when you install the drivers, after paint. You won't get them out easily again.

Good luck with the build! If you have any design questions about the kit, ill try and follow along. But if I miss it hit me with a pm.
tuxedocivic is offline  
post #12 of 36 Old 09-21-2013, 11:47 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
cogeng182's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Richland, WA
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Thanks Tux/Erich, I will be careful not to get ahead of myself.
I did get the pre-assembled crossover, I am assuming I hook it up exactly how it is labeled, no need to switch polarity on the CD or anything right?
cogeng182 is offline  
post #13 of 36 Old 09-21-2013, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
cogeng182's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Richland, WA
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
One Baffle Glued up. One setting. Sanding/filling/sanding next.

cogeng182 is offline  
post #14 of 36 Old 09-21-2013, 02:11 PM
AVS Special Member
 
tuxedocivic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Ladysmith, BC
Posts: 4,358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 154 Post(s)
Liked: 426
From memory, the Pure is normal polarity.
tuxedocivic is offline  
post #15 of 36 Old 09-22-2013, 05:54 PM
Newbie
 
dclapps's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Not to hijack your thread, but can you elaborate on the proper polarity required? I have a Fusion 8, and noticed that Erich/someone highlighted the 'reverse polarity' portion of the crossover schematic. What does this mean?
dclapps is offline  
post #16 of 36 Old 09-22-2013, 07:39 PM
AVS Special Member
 
tuxedocivic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Ladysmith, BC
Posts: 4,358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 154 Post(s)
Liked: 426
It means the output from the tweeter side of the cross over goes into the negative tweeter terminal. And the positive tweeter terminal goes into the common ground (negative) on the XO board.

Is yours pre assembled? I'm not sure how Erich is doing it, but if he's labeling thing it might already be reversed and you just hook it up.
tuxedocivic is offline  
post #17 of 36 Old 09-22-2013, 08:38 PM
Member
 
amo76's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 109
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 17
My pre-assembled xover for Tempest already had polarity reversed so I just hooked + to + and - to -. I'd guess he is doing it for all of them.

amo76 is offline  
post #18 of 36 Old 09-22-2013, 08:58 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Erich H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cincinnati OH
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 130 Post(s)
Liked: 429
The Tempest does not have reversed polarity.

When MTG90 makes the assembled crossovers, if the design calls for it, he switches polarity in the crossover so the end user simply hooks up the positive to positive and negative to negative just like any other speaker. That's the way other companies would do it to make it easy. The assembled crossovers don't come with schematics, so you would just hook them up the way you would hook up anything else. He has the woofer + and - listed along with the tweeter + and -.
Erich H is offline  
post #19 of 36 Old 09-22-2013, 08:59 PM
Newbie
 
dclapps's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I didn't purchase an assembled one, it was just the components. I hooked it up and the woofer sounded fine, but the tweeter sounded quiet, and not quite right.

I think I need to look into your comment, tuxedo. Does the tweeter, or CD have a positive and negative terminal itself? I didn't see any markings.
dclapps is offline  
post #20 of 36 Old 09-22-2013, 09:05 PM
AVS Special Member
 
tuxedocivic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Ladysmith, BC
Posts: 4,358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 154 Post(s)
Liked: 426
Should be marked, possibly with a red dot. My DNA-205 doesn't have markings, but I have fresh off the factory floor versions. I had to find my polarity with an impulse response, but I'm betting you don't know how to do that wink.gif The version Erich is sending out should be marked. I'd be surprised if not. But who knows.

Also check your wiring and post a photo maybe. Low tweeter level sounds like a padding problem.
tuxedocivic is offline  
post #21 of 36 Old 09-22-2013, 09:14 PM
Newbie
 
dclapps's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I sent you a PM tuxedo.
dclapps is offline  
post #22 of 36 Old 09-23-2013, 05:16 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Erich H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cincinnati OH
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 130 Post(s)
Liked: 429
The compression drivers are marked on the terminals from the factory just like the B&C DE10's. They have a red mark on the positive terminal. The only one that didn't was the very first one I sent Tux, because it was the very first factory sample.

Every one after that has the red mark on the terminals because I check each one's frequency response before shipping them. If it didn't have the mark on the terminals, I would know very quickly because it's the first thing I look for before testing. smile.gif
Erich H is offline  
post #23 of 36 Old 09-23-2013, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
cogeng182's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Richland, WA
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Speakers are finished...mostly. Stayed up late last night duratexing, soldering, drilling, lining the cabs, and installing the drivers and binding posts. I will post some final pics later today. I was able to hook them up and give a quick listen at low levels, I was impressed with the details I was hearing and the very nice vocals coming from the speakers. I'm sure they will need some breaking in before sounding their best but so far I like smile.gif I did notice that the default amplitude on my receiver is too high for these speakers, with my old Polk monitor 60's, for low level listening, I usually set it at -30, to get a similar level with these I had to set it at about -40. Can't wait to get home today and crank these up biggrin.gif

To really finish these guys up I need to build some grills and stands. Anyone have some tips on how to install magnets into the baffle?
cogeng182 is offline  
post #24 of 36 Old 09-23-2013, 10:14 AM
AVS Special Member
 
tuxedocivic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Ladysmith, BC
Posts: 4,358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 154 Post(s)
Liked: 426
Forstner bit and super glue.

Glad they show promise. 10db difference biggrin.gif
tuxedocivic is offline  
post #25 of 36 Old 09-24-2013, 06:25 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
cogeng182's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Richland, WA
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
And, here is the finished product - ghetto stands included!



I would like to do some measurements. Which usb mic should I get?
UMM-6 or UMIK-1?

The UMM says it measures down to 18hz, max db = 127
The UMIK is down to 20hx, max db = 133

Anything else I need to consider?
cogeng182 is offline  
post #26 of 36 Old 09-24-2013, 06:38 AM
AVS Special Member
 
tuxedocivic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Ladysmith, BC
Posts: 4,358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 154 Post(s)
Liked: 426
I have the UMIK that I got from cross spectrum, but if you don't wanna pay for the extra calibration, it has to come from Hong Kong. The UMM comes from parts express and that's handy.

They look fantastic. Had a chance to hear them yet?
tuxedocivic is offline  
post #27 of 36 Old 09-24-2013, 01:11 PM
Senior Member
 
mmarki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: SW Burbs of Chicago
Posts: 465
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Looks great!!! I hope mine turn out that nicely too. How do they sound?
mmarki is offline  
post #28 of 36 Old 09-24-2013, 05:39 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
cogeng182's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Richland, WA
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Tux I didn't see you post before I ordered the UMIK directly from MiniDsp, didn't realize that it would ship from Hong Kong lol.

I did quite a bit of listening last night, I think that music sounded great but I can tell that streaming MP3's will probably not get me the quality that these speakers are capable of. I did try one of the music HT demo disks provided by one of the forum members and that was really just excellent biggrin.gif

Movies surprised me a bit, I thought that the dynamic swings were big before, hah!, now they are borderline deafening, which may be okay for very short bursts but I may have to work on a solution for listening while the little one is sleeping.

For me, these are excellent speakers. I still do want to measure just because I am paranoid that I may have damaged a CD when soldering AND i think it will be fun to learn how to do measurements wink.gif
cogeng182 is offline  
post #29 of 36 Old 09-24-2013, 07:28 PM
AVS Special Member
 
tuxedocivic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Ladysmith, BC
Posts: 4,358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 154 Post(s)
Liked: 426
It'll come fairly quick from Hong Kong. Or at least people report that it does. It's pretty hard to over hear a CD with a soldering iron.
tuxedocivic is offline  
post #30 of 36 Old 09-24-2013, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
cogeng182's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Richland, WA
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Listened some more.... I'm fairly certain that I couldn't get the high quality sound I am hearing if one of the CDs was damaged. I really cranked up the level while listening to Pendulum - The Tempest , credit to Sibuna, and I was VERY impressed. I need to start collecting some really good source material now. What format is generally available for this? DVDA/SACD?
cogeng182 is offline  
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off