3x SEOS Fusion 10 Pure Build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 83 Old 09-23-2013, 05:33 PM - Thread Starter
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This is my first DIY build, so I figured I would start a thread. After emailing Erich a bunch, I decided on the Fusion 10 Pure for my LCR in my theater. He was very helpful and answered all my questions. I received my order last Thursday, everything arrived safely, Erich has some, great packing skills. I was able to start Saturday night, things went smoothly, I thought for my first attempt at anything like this. I have to mention that i did watch Java's assembly video before I started, it was very helpful. A few pics:









I have finished two so far and just started on the third tonight. I hope to finish it tomorrow night. Then I will start filling and sanding, hopefully be done with that by the weekend. I'm sure I will have some stupid questions along the way, thanks in advance to those who will help me. I'll be updating with some pics as I make progress. Thanks again to Erich at DIY Sound Group, he's been very helpful and informative. If it wasn't for him, I wouldn't be attempting this.

Wish me luck!!
Matt
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post #2 of 83 Old 09-23-2013, 08:53 PM
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Hey, good luck with your build. Did you get the assembled XOers. ?
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post #3 of 83 Old 09-23-2013, 09:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Hey, good luck with your build. Did you get the assembled XOers. ?

I did. I chickened out this time, I felt this was a big enough step for me as it is, and I didn't want to screw anything up either. If things go well, so far they have, I will build some surrounds too. Either one of the 8" models or I heard there are some smaller designs in the works. I have NO woodworking skills, so I feel like I am limited to what flat packs are available. Unless I can talk a friend of mine into helping me with some baffles etc...
Tux, I thought I saw in another thread that you recommend soldering the speaker wire to the drivers over using clips, any reason why? Clips seemed like the easier way to me, (I think?)
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post #4 of 83 Old 09-23-2013, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmarki View Post

Thanks again to Erich at DIY Sound Group, he's been very helpful and informative. If it wasn't for him, I wouldn't be attempting this.

Matt

Thanks. But keep in mind, this is a group effort. Tux designed the speakers and others helped with the SEOS. I'm the one just trying to bring them together.....and package things with a lot of foam! biggrin.gif But without the designers, I'd just be shipping out pieces of wood surrounded by styrofoam!


As for the terminals. If you're not really good, I wouldn't solder the wires on the compression driver. If you have the heat setting high, and leave it on the terminal for too long, you can melt things.
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post #5 of 83 Old 09-23-2013, 09:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Thanks. But keep in mind, this is a group effort. Tux designed the speakers and others helped with the SEOS. I'm the one just trying to bring them together.....and package things with a lot of foam! biggrin.gif But without the designers, I'd just be shipping out pieces of wood surrounded by styrofoam!


As for the terminals. If you're not really good, I wouldn't solder the wires on the compression driver. If you have the heat setting high, and leave it on the terminal for too long, you can melt things.

That's one of the things I was worried about. I've never soldered anything in my life. I'll just go ahead with the clips then. I should have thanked everyone involved too, I'm sorry I didn't. I do understand there is a lot of effort put forth by numerous people. I think it's great things are consolidated for people like me.
And I forgot the, the assembled crossovers look great, no way I could have made them look that good, thanks MTG.
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post #6 of 83 Old 09-23-2013, 10:28 PM
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Nothing wrong with clips. Solder is more secure though. No sound difference.
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post #7 of 83 Old 09-23-2013, 10:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Nothing wrong with clips. Solder is more secure though. No sound difference.

Thanks. I didn't think so, but it's always good to hear from a designer. Also, I was going to use speaker wire from the binding posts to crossover and crossover to driver. Is any gauge wire ok?
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post #8 of 83 Old 09-24-2013, 07:40 AM
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Any gauge is fine. It's quite a short run.
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post #9 of 83 Old 09-24-2013, 08:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Any gauge is fine. It's quite a short run.

Thanks Tux. Just a warning, the stupid questions will continue.
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post #10 of 83 Old 09-24-2013, 09:10 AM
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No problem!
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post #11 of 83 Old 09-24-2013, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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I finished assembling all 3 tonight. I've been really busy at work, so I haven't had much time to work on the speakers and try to spend time with my family. 3 year old son and a wife that's about 8 months pregnant, so they both keep me busy too. It ended up being a little easier than I expected, although I didn't know what to expect. I should have some time tomorrow for wood filler and sanding. DuraTex should arrive Thursday too. Looking forward to completing them over the weekend I hope. I'm not sure what I should use to stuff the speakers, or how much?
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post #13 of 83 Old 09-25-2013, 08:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Since I have no measuring equipment, and I will probably be building more SEOS speakers in the near future, I was thinking of ordering the Omimic from Parts Express. Seems like it's pretty easy to use.
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post #14 of 83 Old 09-25-2013, 09:16 AM
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The High loft stuff from walmart was exactly what I used. I just unrolled it but kept it folded up, then hacked nice thick pieces off. Seems to work okay.
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post #15 of 83 Old 09-25-2013, 10:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cogeng182 View Post

The High loft stuff from walmart was exactly what I used. I just unrolled it but kept it folded up, then hacked nice thick pieces off. Seems to work okay.

Thanks, I thought the high loft stuff would be better. I feel stupid for asking lots of questions, but I don't want to make a mistake either.
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post #16 of 83 Old 09-26-2013, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Another question, I was told it would be possible to put the crossover in the vertical brace, is there is enough room. I took a pic before I assembled the cabinets. Does this look like enough room between crossover and driver? I think it's 2-3 inches maybe a shade more, of course I didn't measure. Thanks

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post #17 of 83 Old 09-26-2013, 02:22 PM
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Yeah that should be enough room between the driver and crossover.
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post #18 of 83 Old 09-26-2013, 02:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

Yeah that should be enough room between the driver and crossover.

Thanks for the response. What would the problem be if they were too close together? Also, I bought the preassembled crossovers, you did a beautiful job on those.
Thanks, Matt
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post #19 of 83 Old 09-26-2013, 02:27 PM
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To close to the magnet/coil you'll get electromagnetic intereference with the inductors. = Bad.
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post #20 of 83 Old 09-26-2013, 02:33 PM
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I ended up velcro-ing mine in the top half on the side, hopefully it stays attached.
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post #21 of 83 Old 09-26-2013, 02:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

To close to the magnet/coil you'll get electromagnetic intereference with the inductors. = Bad.

Ok. Maybe I'll just put it on the back panel to be safe. But I was also worried about not being able to put polyfill in the section where the crossover would be too. Would that cause a problem?
Also I know I need a 1/4 inch bit to drill for the binding posts, but what size bit do I need to the screws to mount the driver/waveguide? Again sorry for the stupid questions I just don't want to make a mistake.
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post #22 of 83 Old 09-26-2013, 02:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cogeng182 View Post

I ended up velcro-ing mine in the top half on the side, hopefully it stays attached.

I thought about that too. Did you put polybatting around it or leave that area unstuffed?
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post #23 of 83 Old 09-26-2013, 02:37 PM
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I left that area and the area where the binding posts come through unlined. Don't know if that is ideal.

Edit: the general area where the binding posts are at is lined, just left a small bit unlined where they come through.
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post #24 of 83 Old 09-26-2013, 02:46 PM
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XO'ers don't relaly get hot. The resistors can build up some heat if you're really given 'er. But unlikley to cause any problem. I wouldn't worry about it. Unless someone knows better than me.

I'm not sure what you mean by the screws. You wanna drill a pilot hole? Maybe 3/64ths.
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post #25 of 83 Old 09-26-2013, 03:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cogeng182 View Post

I left that area and the area where the binding posts come through unlined. Don't know if that is ideal.

Edit: the general area where the binding posts are at is lined, just left a small bit unlined where they come through.

That's what my plan was, but again, just wanted to make sure before I start. Thanks again
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post #26 of 83 Old 09-26-2013, 03:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

XO'ers don't relaly get hot. The resistors can build up some heat if you're really given 'er. But unlikley to cause any problem. I wouldn't worry about it. Unless someone knows better than me.

I'm not sure what you mean by the screws. You wanna drill a pilot hole? Maybe 3/64ths.

That's what I meant, I was typing on my phone and my brain got ahead of my fingers. Thanks.
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post #27 of 83 Old 09-26-2013, 04:24 PM - Thread Starter
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I got busy at work again, so I won't have much time tonight or tomorrow to do anything with the speakers. I'll post a few more pics of my progress later. My plan is to drill pilot holes for the waveguide/drivers. Spray paint the area around both (black), then apply 2 coats of duratex. After that, drill and mount binding posts, mount crossover, stuff/fill the walls of the cabinet, hook up/install drivers. Hope to get all that done on the weekend between family things too. Is there anything I'm missing/forgetting about?
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post #28 of 83 Old 09-26-2013, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmarki View Post

I got busy at work again, so I won't have much time tonight or tomorrow to do anything with the speakers. I'll post a few more pics of my progress later. My plan is to drill pilot holes for the waveguide/drivers. Spray paint the area around both (black), then apply 2 coats of duratex. After that, drill and mount binding posts, mount crossover, stuff/fill the walls of the cabinet, hook up/install drivers. Hope to get all that done on the weekend between family things too. Is there anything I'm missing/forgetting about?

Sanding/filling/sanding again? I did this and I could still see some seams after one coat of duratex, after two coats I didn't notice any seams.
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post #29 of 83 Old 09-26-2013, 04:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Sanding/filling/sanding again? I did this and I could still see some seams after one coat of duratex, after two coats I didn't notice any seams.

I thought about that too. I'll check again and see what it looks like when I get home, but like you, I plan on 2 coats of duratex so I might be ok. Thanks for all your help, I appreciate it.
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post #30 of 83 Old 09-26-2013, 07:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Got a little sloppy with the wood filler. Did that last night while the wife and kid were gone.



Sanded this morning before work. Happy with the results, although some seams are still visible. Don't know if I'll fill and sand again over the weekend or not. I might just start with the duraTex.
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