Update a home-built 1259? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 09-26-2013, 06:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Fellow DIY-ers
I have a nice home-built sealed box of approx. 3.3 cu ft. It currently houses an NHT 1259. After the small plate amp I was using bit the dust, I abandoned the subwoofer (this was several years ago.) But after perusing all the DIY forums (especially AVS), I'm thinking of trying to resurrect it. My question is, would the Dayton Audio UM15-22 15" Ultimax be a good fit? And what amp would be best? Dayton Audio SA1000? Should I consider DSP?
I'm trying to get decent output at 16hz, if possible. (And without spending a fortune!) Any and all responses welcome.
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post #2 of 15 Old 09-26-2013, 06:52 PM
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what are you trying to resurrect if asking about a new driver and a new amp? you want to compromise the whole design around the wood box that you have, or is it a particularly nice box that took a lot of time to make?

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post #3 of 15 Old 09-26-2013, 10:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Resurrect was probably the wrong word. Yes, it is a very nice box--1" mdf, doubled for the baffle, covered in 1/4" oak. It was my understanding that the 1259 driver had been far surpassed, and it seems that the 3 cu ft sealed box would work with many modern drivers.
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post #4 of 15 Old 09-26-2013, 10:32 PM
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the reason that i ask is that you also mention that you would like to get to 16hz and that you don't want to spend a fortune. :-)

normally the way to do that is with a large ported cabinet and a big driver, such as the stereo integrity 18" for $220 delivered through the end of sept and plopped into a marty sub!

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1489541/large-ported-dayton-ho18s#post_23711347


here is the difference in max output. the 12 in 3 cu ft sealed, the um15 in 3 cu ft sealed, and the big ported marty!

12 inch driver

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post #5 of 15 Old 09-26-2013, 10:37 PM
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What about something like this useing PR's? Or just the SDX driver and one of the amp options like the SPA?

http://creativesound.ca/details.php?model=Quartet12XC%20Subwoofer%20Kit

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post #6 of 15 Old 09-26-2013, 11:27 PM - Thread Starter
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LTD02: I realize a large ported box is probably the most cost-effective way to get 16Hz, but I'm not inclined (currently) to construct a new enclosure.
Steve: Dropping in a new 12" driver certainly sounds appealing. Routing out openings for passive radiators, not so much. What advantages would the SDX have over the Dayton? Sorry if I'm being an annoying noob. The 1259 was my first, and so far only, stab at DIY audio. I was pretty happy with it until the amp crapped out. While researching replacement amps, I stumbled across rave reviews (in these pages) for the AV123 15", which only cost about double what a new amp would have. I've been very happy with it, but it kinda makes me sad to see my old sub box gathering dust. Plus if one sub is good, two must be better, right? smile.gif
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post #7 of 15 Old 09-27-2013, 12:04 AM
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"I realize a large ported box is probably the most cost-effective way to get 16Hz, but I'm not inclined (currently) to construct a new enclosure."

roger. the um15 with 1000 watts in the sealed 3 cubic footer is a decent choice then.

1000 watts pushes the driver to right about 22mm, which is about that drivers real xmax.

lots of stuffing the bring down the q would be a good idea.

without room loading, the sub will be down 12db at 20hz, so a little bit of eq on the bottom would help too.

the sa1000 has a boost option and one band of peq. that should be fine.

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post #8 of 15 Old 09-27-2013, 07:45 AM
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The SI HT 15 has a smoother response than the ultimax in 3.3 cu ft. 3.3 is a little small for the ultimax.


Q = (edit) .86 for the ult vs .62 for the SI

SI is +2db at 16hz, -1db @ 36hz vs the ult at max spl
small signal is +1db @ 16 for the SI
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post #9 of 15 Old 09-27-2013, 08:06 AM
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one decimal place off on the q up there. :-)

in winisd, the effect of stuffing the enclosure on q can be done by changing qa which is 100 by default down to something like 7 or 10 for a fully stuffed enclosure. it is under the "advanced" button under the enclosure size. with stuffing, q is around 0.8 or a little lower, which is fine.

the si ht looks a little better on the model, but it doesn't have as good of inductance control, so neither wins on all accounts.

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post #10 of 15 Old 09-27-2013, 10:06 AM
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My experience is that stuffing isn't quite the same as starting with the right size enclosure. It will help, though, and there is not much you can do about inductance control. Good point.
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post #11 of 15 Old 09-27-2013, 01:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi guys,
Thanks so much for the help, I really appreciate it.
Couple more questions (if I may): The Xmax on the SI is a little better than the Dayton (22.5mm vs. 19mm.) Enough to make you choose one over the other?
Also, the power handling on the SI is rated at 600W, the Dayton at 800W. Will I smoke the SI with the SA1000 amp? (I mean, assuming I crank it.)
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post #12 of 15 Old 09-28-2013, 03:11 AM
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there are different ways of specifying xmax and Dayton runs conservative. the um15 has been tested at 22mm or better.

"Also, the power handling on the SI is rated at 600W, the Dayton at 800W. Will I smoke the SI with the SA1000 amp? (I mean, assuming I crank it.)"

no. you won't smoke it. :-)

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post #13 of 15 Old 09-28-2013, 11:47 AM - Thread Starter
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OK, think I'm going for the Dayton. Seems like it might be a little more robust.
Are there other 15" woofs I should consider?
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post #14 of 15 Old 09-28-2013, 02:31 PM
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because of the impedance peak location, the resonant frequency of the cab, and the low pass filter, this is how much "power" the driver is likely to see with "1000 watts". this is the um15 in 3 cubic feet, the si would look similar.


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post #15 of 15 Old 09-28-2013, 02:35 PM
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the jbl w15gti might be a little better, maybe, but it is a lot more money.

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