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post #91 of 138 Old 10-08-2013, 02:09 PM
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Congrats on your purchase and good luck with your build!

You will love them!

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post #92 of 138 Old 10-08-2013, 02:42 PM
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Dual LMS's sometimes find themselves turning into quads. Just saying....... biggrin.gif
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post #93 of 138 Old 10-08-2013, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edoggrc51 View Post

Dual LMS's sometimes find themselves turning into quads. Just saying....... biggrin.gif

Liar!! Oh wait. ..
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post #94 of 138 Old 10-08-2013, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edoggrc51 View Post

Dual LMS's sometimes find themselves turning into quads. Just saying....... biggrin.gif

That's why I'm starting with 3. Not sure what that'll turn into. smile.gif. The amp can handle one more and I can always add a plate amplifier for my rear pair if I go crazy like some of you and buy 6. But 6 will absolutely be the limit! Actually 3 will be enough for a long, long time...I hope.
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post #95 of 138 Old 10-08-2013, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by dgage View Post

I also waffled between the UXL and LMS and in the end went with 3 of the LMS 5400s due to the no compromises approach and not finding a review that compared the SQ of the UXL to the LMS. I just received two of my LMS 5400s last Thursday and hope to receive the third one next week. I will be powering mine by a rack-mount SpeakerPower SP2-8000, which will give a conservative 2,000 watts per channel. Keep in mind the SpeakerPower amps are the same ones used in the Seaton and JTR subs among others. Just throwing out an alternative amp, although it is definitely more expensive than the pro amps being discussed. Couple of advantages is low idle power and quiet fan option, which many of the pro amps being discussed simply do not have and would need to be modified.

I hope to build some 6-7 cu.ft. boxes for the LMS 5400s so I can hear them by the weekend. Can't wait.

David

Good amps.
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post #96 of 138 Old 10-09-2013, 10:56 AM
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Thanks guys. I started building the first sub box today and should receive my 20amp to 15amp plug converter so I can plug in my SpeakerPower amp. I'll definitely give an update when I get the subs up and running. Also, I will run a pair of 20amp lines here soon enough to give the gear appropriate head room.

Finally, I can't wait for my JTR Noesis 212HT-LP speakers to arrive here in the next few weeks so that the subs have an appropriate top end.
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post #97 of 138 Old 10-09-2013, 11:43 AM
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And my 3rd LMS 5400 just shipped from Parts Express even though they originally put my order on back order and said they wouldn't have any until Nov. 22. So if you want, get them while they're hot, or at least in stock.

By the way, those LMS 5400s are absolute beasts. I'm 6' 195 lbs. and after attaching the cone to the magnet/motor structure, I thought I'd take the sub downstairs to test it free air. ****. I lifted it and quickly put it back down. Then I went downstairs and brought up an Outlaw Mono amp and Sonos to play some quick music full range. Much easier to move just about anything compared to that sub.
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post #98 of 138 Old 10-09-2013, 11:45 AM
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You don't want to convert higher amps to lower amps, that's how houses burn down. Just Sayin'
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post #99 of 138 Old 10-09-2013, 11:56 AM
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Up to the limits of the UXL, the LMS is only maybe 5-10% more SQ (if I had to put a number to it).

I think you will find that the LMS is so clean that it doesn't sound as loud as it is, that's the problem with Hi-Fi, perception;
and in-part why people go with quad (it also loads the room better).
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post #100 of 138 Old 10-09-2013, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

You don't want to convert higher amps to lower amps, that's how houses burn down. Just Sayin'

Just a temporary thing until I get the 20amp lines run. I definitely won't push the amplifier, I just want to make sure everything works...and get a small taste of what I'll be getting.
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post #101 of 138 Old 10-09-2013, 12:54 PM
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By the way, for those with LMS 5400s, how high do you have them crossed over. I will be getting the JTR Noesis 212HT-LPs and some have said they wanted a little more midbass with them. I was thinking I might be able to go up to 100 with the LMS 5400s and down to 80 with my JTRs. Of course, I'd have to play with that integration and have a MiniDSP, UMIK-1, and REW to help. But I'm just wondering if that sounds like a possible plan or if I am way off base(bass). smile.gif
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post #102 of 138 Old 10-09-2013, 03:17 PM
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post #103 of 138 Old 10-10-2013, 08:33 PM
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I have my LMS's crossed over at 200hz.

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post #104 of 138 Old 10-10-2013, 08:43 PM
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No sh1t? Nice! So if my JTR Noesis don't have enough midbass, apparently my LMS 5400s can bring it. Awesome! By the way, the third and last LMS 5400 I ordered will be here tomorrow. Funny thing is...I'm already considering a fourth and haven't even heard them yet. A fourth would max out my amp.
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post #105 of 138 Old 10-10-2013, 09:36 PM
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and this is what it sounds like @ 200

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post #106 of 138 Old 10-12-2013, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post

By the way, for those with LMS 5400s, how high do you have them crossed over.
If I remember right, I think I have them at 120hz.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

I think you will find that the LMS is so clean that it doesn't sound as loud as it is, that's the problem with Hi-Fi, perception;
and in-part why people go with quad (it also loads the room better).
+1
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post #107 of 138 Old 04-08-2014, 07:21 AM - Thread Starter
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I finally took the plunge and got 2 LMS 5400 ultras and a second EPX 4000. Sounds fantastic. Though I'm not sure "bridged" mode is working? It sounds the exact same whether I set it to Bridged or stereo? I would think if you're doubling the power by going from stereo to bridged mode on the amp, then you'd audibly notice a difference?


I'll add pictures in a bit.

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post #108 of 138 Old 04-08-2014, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcnitro07 View Post

I finally took the plunge and got 2 LMS 5400 ultras and a second EPX 4000. Sounds fantastic. Though I'm not sure "bridged" mode is working? It sounds the exact same whether I set it to Bridged or stereo? I would think if you're doubling the power by going from stereo to bridged mode on the amp, then you'd audibly notice a difference?


I'll add pictures in a bit.

You have them plugged in right? Bridge mode typically requires you to put the positive on one side's positive terminal and the negative on the other channel's positive terminal. Usually there are markings on the amp to show which one is + and which one is - on the positive terminals. Also there may be dip switches that need to be changed for mono bridge.
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post #109 of 138 Old 04-08-2014, 08:13 AM
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Bridged on most Behringer amps require that you actually change the wiring - not only flip the bridge switch.

You may have already done this, but for speakon you need a four pole speakon kit and you wire the positive wire to +1 pole and the negative wire to +2 pole. For bridged mode using speaker wire outputs you connnect the positive wire to the +1 red terminal and the negative wire to the +2 red terminal. Then flip the switch on the right side of the amp to bridge. You should notice a difference as you are effectively doubling power output which should be 3dB louder or 6dB louder with two subs co-located. If you don't physically change your wiring - then you aren't actually switching to bridged mode with the bridge switch --- The same thing happens with my iNuke amps. I can change the setting in the DSP to bridge, but unless I physically switch the wiring - there is no difference.

See the attached graphic with yellow highlights marking bridge notations.

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post #110 of 138 Old 04-08-2014, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

Bridged on most Behringer amps require that you actually change the wiring - not only flip the bridge switch.

You may have already done this, but for speakon you need a four pole speakon kit and you wire the positive wire to +1 pole and the negative wire to +2 pole. For bridged mode using speaker wire outputs you connnect the positive wire to the +1 red terminal and the negative wire to the +2 red terminal. Then flip the switch on the right side of the amp to bridge. You should notice a difference as you are effectively doubling power output which should be 3dB louder or 6dB louder with two subs co-located. If you don't physically change your wiring - then you aren't actually switching to bridged mode with the bridge switch --- The same thing happens with my iNuke amps. I can change the setting in the DSP to bridge, but unless I physically switch the wiring - there is no difference.

See the attached graphic with yellow highlights marking bridge notations.


I knew that about bridging, just wasn't sure how to do it with speak on connectors. Can I simply re-wire it under the connector?

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post #111 of 138 Old 04-08-2014, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edoggrc51 View Post

If I remember right, I think I have them at 120hz.
+1

It is defintely louder than my old 15s! and I apparently am using half the amp power....I can't imagine what it will be once I correctly bridge the amps lol

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post #112 of 138 Old 04-08-2014, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcnitro07 View Post

It is defintely louder than my old 15s! and I apparently am using half the amp power....I can't imagine what it will be once I correctly bridge the amps lol
You just have to move the -1 wire to the +2 and set the dips and you want to turn the vol 2 all the way down (and probably reduce vol 1 too at first, just in-case).
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post #113 of 138 Old 04-08-2014, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Hopefully my speak on connectors have the +2, I thought I remember 4 poles in it.

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post #114 of 138 Old 04-08-2014, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcnitro07 View Post

Hopefully my speak on connectors have the +2, I thought I remember 4 poles in it.

They do. 4 pole are +/- 1 and +/1 2.

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post #115 of 138 Old 04-08-2014, 12:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes my hope is that they are 4 pole and not 2 pole, I only remember seeing 4poles, doesn't mean they're there biggrin.gif

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post #116 of 138 Old 04-08-2014, 01:02 PM - Thread Starter
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I verified on parts express that its 4 pole! W00t

https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-ppss30-speakon-type-speaker-cable-30-ft--248-4626

I guess sometime I'll re-wire it!

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post #117 of 138 Old 04-08-2014, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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I switched the pole positions in the speakon ends, now when I turn it up my lights flash and the receiver display dims and then the circuit breaker in the surge protector shuts off, I need more a bigger breaker and perhaps a line conditioner thingy

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post #118 of 138 Old 04-08-2014, 07:15 PM
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kcnitro07,

I actually thought about whether to post this but since you are a fellow LMS 5400 owner, I thought you'd want to get the most out of your expensive babies. I truly don't want or mean to sound like an elitist or a jerk but you need to upgrade your amp so you can get even close to hearing how your LMS 5400s can perform. Here is a post where I explain going over to Coach's and hearing his subs hooked up to an EPX4000 and was underwhelmed.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1524457/beasts-first-ever-ballin-out-nc-g2g-april-5th/300#post_24580826

With that said, take a look at an IPR7500 or its better sibling, the Crest Prolite 7.5. The iNukes also seem to meet their ratings, at least according to the reviews I read. You should at least push for a TRUE 2000w or even better, 3,000w+ per sub to get the most out of your LMS 5400s.

Now I hope I haven't offended you as I truly don't want to do that but you have some awesome subs and need to eventually gets some amps to get the most out of them. Regardless, I hope you truly enjoy a great cornerstone to a home theater system.

David

Edit: Oh yeah, Blah450 seems to be able to get good prices on the Peavey and Crest amps. I haven't done business with him but he did the UXL-18 group buy and it was the best/smoothest group buy I've ever seen.
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post #119 of 138 Old 04-08-2014, 07:20 PM
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You will need at least 3 15amp breakers, one for each sub-amp and one breaker for everything else.
If you go with a bigger amp you could just do one 20 or 30amp, an a 15 for everything else.

You "shouldn't" need a line conditioner, but after upgrading the breakers, you find you do... a puresine UPS is the thing to get because it can actually supply power, rather than just draw more power.

Something like this should do you, it can handle up to 900watts for 2 minutes, or 450watts for 11 minutes.
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397008459&sr=8-2&keywords=cyberpower+sinewave
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post #120 of 138 Old 04-08-2014, 07:29 PM - Thread Starter
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I purchased 2 20 amp circuit breakers for the amps, but they'll be installed in the basement where my home theater will hopefully be moved this summer. That would put 3 circuit breakers total biggrin.gif

David,

I understand exactly what you're saying. WHen I did research a while ago (I am a bit foggy on the details) the IPR7500 looked to not be bridgeable and thus I chose against it as its "rated" power was lower than the "rated" power of the EPX (not EP) I have. The EPX is "rated" at 3000 watts rms and 4000 watts peak and thus I figure its probably good for 2000 ish rms, though I haven't bench tested that. At the current moment if I turn it up I have power issues, so right now its more than enough for the room I'm in. plus...I have wood floors up here so I get plenty of shaking going on. I don't need it to hit 130 dB, my goal was to get bottom end which I have achieved so I'm happy. If, when I move to the basement, I feel my set up is underpowered because I have lost the vibrations from having a concrete floor, I might upgrade, but until then I'm happy with what I have.

I am not offended by your comments, I'm not as much of an audiophile as most of the visitors on this forum, for the most part I visit only when I buy something new...I come because I want opinions but mostly I just enjoy watching movies and I think my set up with the EPX4000s will satisfy plenty.

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