dayton ultimax 15 noise - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 06:19 AM
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+1

Return it, especially now :-P

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post #92 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 06:49 AM
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I'm voting bad driver send it back. Mostly because you heard the noise on the small amp, but I'm sure you didn't do it any good with clipping the 1kw amp with frequency sweeps either.
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post #93 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 07:12 AM
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In the video, it sounds like clipping to me. The first time I ever clipped my EP2500 with SDX15, I thought for sure it bottomed. It's a scary sound.

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post #94 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 09:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Called pe and they said they will exchange it as long as the voice coil isnt fried. He said if it was it wouldnt play and smell burnt. So looks like I'll be shipping it back.
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post #95 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 10:22 AM
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Were you happy with the sound after having it dialed in correctly? I mean overall did it sound good to you (not talking about listening for damage, just from an enjoyment standpoint) I agree if there is any doubt you're better off returning it since you really have nothing to lose by doing it.
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post #96 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 10:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Sounded ok. Would like more output. Had to fight the urge to not turn it up to 11. Guess I'll need to add more subs eventually.
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post #97 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 10:58 AM
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I can understand that, I have 4 subs in my main system now and I'm pretty flat to around 15hz...and I rarely listen at high levels. One thing you might try when you get everything going again is doing near-field placement if your room will allow it. Have that sub firing right into the back or side of your chair. That will add some of the impact you are wanting...but I can't guarantee what it will be the best place for overall FR. When time and money allows, you can then add another in a more traditional placement to help even things out a bit.

Edit...you might also be a candidate for a tactile transducer like a butt kicker type of device.
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post #98 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 11:09 AM
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Hey Aud.. Interesting, are you employing any type of dsp or eq in any form, or are you getting down to 15 flat just by room gain alone?

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post #99 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 11:36 AM
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It is a combination...antimode with a little computerized EQ boost down low with a little room gain. (I have a bit of a house curve for a small 5db rise to about 18hz, then I let my sealed subs naturally start to roll off from there) My room is 4000 cu ft. and not sealed (a small open doorway) , so I don't get much pressurization...although if I pushed it to higher levels I might. But for my listening habits, it does the job. I rarely go over -20 and even at that low level I can get the nice "ripple the floor" earthquake effect with bass heavy scenes in movies...even though my main concern is getting music right. I incorporated my music system into the HT setup after swearing I would keep them separate in the beginning of my HT adventure.
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post #100 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 11:39 AM
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I see, Thanks for the feedback. cool.gif

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post #101 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 12:28 PM
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Just to be clear, I couldn't hit 15hz at reference level or anywhere close to it. I haven't done max testing, but I'm guessing my max output down that low is in the high 80s or low 90s. I hope the original post didn't confuse that fact.
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post #102 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiophile2k View Post

Just to be clear, I couldn't hit 15hz at reference level or anywhere close to it. I haven't done max testing, but I'm guessing my max output down that low is in the high 80s or low 90s. I hope the original post didn't confuse that fact.

Oh no I was just trying to get a little more of a handle on the sub. I see the Dayton recommended here and there and have always kind of wondered what it can actually do. In a small room with good room gain, it sounds like it might not be to down at around 20ish possibly no dsp/eq? You’re running four, so I have no doubt that you’re doin some bass. The deal over at PE is very attractive imo. cool.gif

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post #103 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 03:06 PM
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Okay, I see where the confusion came in. I don't own these drivers...I've just been trying to help the OP with his problem. I don't have any first hand knowledge of these drivers, my posts have been based on the published specs and the problems he has described within his setup. I have servo controlled ULD-15 subs in my system. My post about multiple subs was in response to the OPs post that more than one sub might be needed to get the effect he wants. I was saying that even though I don't listen at high levels it takes multiple subs in my room to get me to where I want to be.
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post #104 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 03:12 PM
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^^^ LOL Sorry Aud.. I clearly need to read posts more carefully . biggrin.gif

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post #105 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 03:46 PM
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"Oh no I was just trying to get a little more of a handle on the sub. I see the Dayton recommended here and there and have always kind of wondered what it can actually do."

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=89

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #106 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 05:06 PM
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^^^ Yeah LTD, not the driver I had in mind. I thought another driver got into the mix and not the SI wink.gif

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post #107 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 06:01 PM
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oh, you were referring to the um15?

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #108 of 132 Old 10-22-2013, 06:38 PM
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Yes I was, I got off track when the ULD came up and I didn't realize it.

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post #109 of 132 Old 10-23-2013, 09:17 AM
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Glad I talked a friend out of getting these drivers. Probably a whole batch of bad ones from the same Chinese factory .
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post #110 of 132 Old 10-23-2013, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dezmond View Post

Glad I talked a friend out of getting these drivers. Probably a whole batch of bad ones from the same Chinese factory .
I'm not sure there is any evidence of that. As far as being made in China, show me a driver that isn't!
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post #111 of 132 Old 10-23-2013, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiophile2k View Post


I'm not sure there is any evidence of that. As far as being made in China, show me a driver that isn't!

Pretty sure AE drivers are not made in China . . .
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post #112 of 132 Old 10-23-2013, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
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Pretty sure AE drivers are not made in China . . .
Last I knew, john sourced as many materials stateside that he could - cones, surrounds, glues, voice coils, and baskets? I think the t-poles are Chinese and machined in house.

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post #113 of 132 Old 10-23-2013, 09:58 AM
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The DVC 15 is "Made in the USA" whatever that means....

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post #114 of 132 Old 10-23-2013, 10:02 AM
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You are correct, and there are others, but the VAST majority are Chinese made. And there is nothing wrong with supporting American made goods, but it is a fallacy to assume because something was made in China "Probably a whole batch of bad ones from the same Chinese factory"
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post #115 of 132 Old 10-23-2013, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

The DVC 15 is "Made in the USA" whatever that means....

By Eminence, which is cool. They make lots of good pro drivers. I would still prefer the equivalent from the reference line though.
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post #116 of 132 Old 11-02-2013, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
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PE exchanged driver no questions asked. Got everything back together and ran audyssey. Receiver is set at -2.5. Gain on amp at about 25%. Am I stuck with these settings or is it safe to bump up one or the other for a little more thump during movies?
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post #117 of 132 Old 11-02-2013, 02:18 PM
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You can bump it up in the AVR to around +5db or so at the highest. (that will mean the sub is 7.5db hot compared to your other speakers) Don't touch the sub amp's gain once it is set, otherwise you'll be shooting in the dark about where your levels really are. As long as you are listening below reference, you'll be safe. But if you are listening at reference or higher, you should back it back down to where your AVR originally set it. Keep in mind if you are running the sub 7.5db hot at reference, you are asking it to produce over 122db at your listening position...which it is not going to be able to do. You'll risk damaging it again. That is why I say back it down if you are planning on pushing it to reference or higher. For most people that is too loud for sustained listening anyway, and you are risking hearing damage if you listen at that level all the time.
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post #118 of 132 Old 11-02-2013, 02:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok. Another dumb question. What is reference level and how do I know if im playing it at that level?
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post #119 of 132 Old 11-02-2013, 02:33 PM
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its 85 db at your listing position, its where audyessey targets when it does its cal, if you set your receiver to 0 it should be pretty close, its pretty fing loud. you need a spl meter or sorts to check
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post #120 of 132 Old 11-02-2013, 02:49 PM
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Yeah, that 85db is the AVERAGE, with peaks being 105db on the speakers and 115db on the sub. ( so as I explained above, if you are running the sub 7.5db hot, you are asking it to produce over 122db at peaks) Most AVRs will make reference 0 and mark volume as - (negative) or + decibels from that reference after you run your calibration. Here is a more lengthy explanation. http://nodef.blogspot.com/2008/11/0-db-thx-reference-level.html
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