Dedicated line for Peavey IPR7500 - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 10-21-2013, 03:05 PM - Thread Starter
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So I'm putting in a dedicated line to run an IPR7500 and want it to be able to be used to full potential. Should I do a 30 amp line or will 20 be sufficient?

Side question, with 4^3 feet per driver sealed, how many SI 18s would you run on one amp? If I ran 8 at two ohms per channel that would give each driver a little over 800 watts each right? Is that the best scenario?

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post #2 of 24 Old 10-21-2013, 04:58 PM
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Well, if you do 30 then you need to use 30A plug and receptacle, not just wire it to a standard household outlet.

Unless you're going to push the amp super hard with long duration tones then a 20A likely will be fine. There are people using the big Sanway (Lab gruppen) clones on 20A lines.

Just because there is a knob doesn't mean you should turn it.
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post #3 of 24 Old 10-21-2013, 05:16 PM
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^^^
+1

20 amps will be fine but there is no harm running 10awg for that outlet either. smile.gif
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post #4 of 24 Old 10-21-2013, 05:29 PM - Thread Starter
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The walls are down to studs so I'd put in proper breaker, line, and recepticle. If 20 will be fine then that's what I'll go with. I was just asking as emotiva recommends a dedicated 20A line for their amp that does 1000 x 2 at 4 ohms. So this amp could potentially output over 3000 x 2 at 2 ohms

Dan
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post #5 of 24 Old 10-21-2013, 05:34 PM
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You need to understand all that is contingent on driving the amp to continuous full rated power. An unlikely situation unless you're playing test tones at full power or some sort of movie/music material that has long duration tones and you're playing it on the verge of clipping.

Frankly, if you tried the full rated continuous power thing with the Peavey it's likely even a 30A line isn't enough. Fortunately, the amp doesn't normally pull that much unless you're approximating full power test bench condtions.

As MTG90 says, running 10ga certainly won't hurt on a 20A circuit.

Just because there is a knob doesn't mean you should turn it.
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post #6 of 24 Old 10-22-2013, 01:10 PM
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if it is all open, 30 amp line. why not?

adapters are there if you need them: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-Electrical-Adapter-Plug-30-AMP-Male-to-15-AMP-Female-for-Motorhome-Camper-/390681697944

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post #7 of 24 Old 10-22-2013, 01:25 PM
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What is the cabling distance between be new proposed outlet and the panel board?

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post #8 of 24 Old 10-22-2013, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

if it is all open, 30 amp line. why not?

adapters are there if you need them: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-Electrical-Adapter-Plug-30-AMP-Male-to-15-AMP-Female-for-Motorhome-Camper-/390681697944

+10000. If I were running my lines again (starting over) I'd go 10-2 for sure!

On that note, have you given any thought to running it on a 240V line?
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post #9 of 24 Old 10-22-2013, 02:15 PM
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:-) I checked, but the back panel that I saw must have been for the wrong one. the ipr2 7500 appears to be 240v, so that solves that. (unless sweetwater has the wrong one in the photo :-) ).


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post #10 of 24 Old 10-22-2013, 02:22 PM
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ok, i'm not losing my mind.

the manual shows 120v


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post #11 of 24 Old 10-22-2013, 02:23 PM
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so if you can get the 240v amp and run a 240v line...that would be the best. :-)

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post #12 of 24 Old 10-22-2013, 02:32 PM
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My ipr 7500 only has the 120v labeling on it. I assume that it will not work on 220 power. That other pic must have been a European version.
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post #13 of 24 Old 10-22-2013, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

:-) I checked, but the back panel that I saw must have been for the wrong one. the ipr2 7500 appears to be 240v, so that solves that. (unless sweetwater has the wrong one in the photo :-) ).


Dang, I never even thought to check. I remember the spec sheet saying they did a bench test with 240V so I thought they may be switchable. smile.gif I will have to see what mine say on them.
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post #14 of 24 Old 10-22-2013, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by FOH View Post

What is the cabling distance between be new proposed outlet and the panel board?

In my opinion, without question, I'd always upsize the cabling (not the overcurrent protection) of a subwoofer amplifier circuit. Especially now with full access, I'd run a #10awg unless it's a real long run, then I'd upsize it further to #8awg.

Also be mindful of solid connections and a good spec-grade 20amp device, or even hospital grade if you want to spend the money (no audio benefits but they're harder to pull out).

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post #15 of 24 Old 10-22-2013, 04:01 PM - Thread Starter
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I can't do 240 as this is for my bedroom theater and I don't want a 240v line in the master when we decide to move on to a bigger house. The panel is really close, it'll only be like a 15 foot run even with all the bends, maybe 20 feet. I'll just go 10-2 or 8-2 then if a 20 amp breaker and recepticle don't cut it I have the wire installed to upgrade to higher amperage.

Dan
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post #16 of 24 Old 10-22-2013, 06:03 PM
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Just 120...
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post #17 of 24 Old 10-22-2013, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saabracer23 View Post

I can't do 240 as this is for my bedroom theater and I don't want a 240v line in the master when we decide to move on to a bigger house. The panel is really close, it'll only be like a 15 foot run even with all the bends, maybe 20 feet. I'll just go 10-2 or 8-2 then if a 20 amp breaker and recepticle don't cut it I have the wire installed to upgrade to higher amperage.

Dan

You're going to have a dandy of a time trying to connect 8ga wire to a standard receptacle, I think. 12ga is bad enough to mess with, let alone 10, or 8. smile.gif

Just because there is a knob doesn't mean you should turn it.
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post #18 of 24 Old 10-23-2013, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saabracer23 View Post

I can't do 240 as this is for my bedroom theater and I don't want a 240v line in the master when we decide to move on to a bigger house. The panel is really close, it'll only be like a 15 foot run even with all the bends, maybe 20 feet. I'll just go 10-2 or 8-2 then if a 20 amp breaker and recepticle don't cut it I have the wire installed to upgrade to higher amperage.

Dan

A run of #10awg will be fine.

Remember, a branch circuit breaker can easily pass enormous amounts of current past the normal rated size;
For example, a 20 amp circuit can pass 7-8 times the rated 20amp trip amount, .. for up to a second or more.
It will allow up to 3x the rated amount for up to 10sec or so.
And the same 20amp circuit, can allow up to 1.5-2times the rated amount for a period extending as long as 30 seconds.

So, 30a-40a, for up to 30seconds, ... 60a for around 10seconds, ... and 140a or more for brief pulses of as long as a second!

This is why a 20amp breaker is fine, .. and why we upsize the wiring. There's no safety issue with the mammoth currents thru the wiring .., it's just lossy (Edrop) ... and any chance to lessen voltage drop during those big demand moments is a worthy one.

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Originally Posted by whoaru99 View Post

You're going to have a dandy of a time trying to connect 8ga wire to a standard receptacle, I think. 12ga is bad enough to mess with, let alone 10, or 8. smile.gif

12awg or even 10awg is no problem, #8, yeah, it won't all fit. Any time a wire's cmil is too big for the connection, and the wire size is a preventative measure for potential voltage drop, removal of strands until the wire fits is commonly accepted and electrically sound approach.

Also, one can "tail out", and utilize an appropriate wire size for the receptacle. Just make joints and connect the bigger size of the entire run, to a short 6" section of a size that fits. No biggie. This is how voltage drop upsized wiring is accommodated.



Hope all this helps

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post #19 of 24 Old 10-23-2013, 08:55 PM
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Yeah, I know 12 and 10 will fit the terminals. In the walls and even in the panel no biggie, they're just PITA to work with in standard size receptacle boxes. I can't imagine what it would be like to run 8ga into one even pigtailed.

And, if you pigtail, far as I know the OCP can't be any bigger than allowed for the smallest wire. Not that anyone has necessarily suggested that but just for the point.

Just because there is a knob doesn't mean you should turn it.
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post #20 of 24 Old 10-24-2013, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by whoaru99 View Post

Yeah, I know 12 and 10 will fit the terminals. In the walls and even in the panel no biggie, they're just PITA to work with in standard size receptacle boxes. I can't imagine what it would be like to run 8ga into one even pigtailed.

And, if you pigtail, far as I know the OCP can't be any bigger than allowed for the smallest wire. Not that anyone has necessarily suggested that but just for the point.

With the wire upsize, comes a commensurate box upsize whenever needed.

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post #21 of 24 Old 10-24-2013, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by FOH View Post

With the wire upsize, comes a commensurate box upsize whenever needed.

Sure, you can use larger if you want but larger than a typical device box isn't necessary (per code), although 8 ga may push limits if it's a shallow box.

Just because there is a knob doesn't mean you should turn it.
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post #22 of 24 Old 10-25-2013, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whoaru99 View Post

Sure, you can use larger if you want but larger than a typical device box isn't necessary (per code), although 8 ga may push limits if it's a shallow box.

That's why I stated "whenever needed".

Having studied the NEC for 5 years, I still recognize the most important elements about the NEC are discovered upon day one. The first one is what comes to mind here.

The NEC represents a minimum requirement.
The difference between "shall" and "should".
The Code is a safety standard, not a design guide.

The OP (saabracer) specifically stated "The walls are down to studs", hence my whenever needed, ... heck, if one's going to the trouble of upsizing a circuit for a subwoofer amp, may as well use the appropriate items top to bottom since the walls are open. A box and connector are pennies relative to the wire.

I hope we're not drifting a bit too OT. I've since retired, but after several decades of a wildly diverse and colorful career in and all around all aspects of the electrical industry/trade (from the largest construction imaginable, showbiz, concerts, high profile sporting events), I can tell war stories and discuss electrical minutia all day. Although I don't have much residential experience, I do like to offer forum help when audio needs and electrical wiring cross paths.

Thanks

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post #23 of 24 Old 10-25-2013, 09:12 PM
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Uh huh. So what's the point?

To get the last word?

To appeal to authority?

Mine is bigger than yours?

Just because there is a knob doesn't mean you should turn it.
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post #24 of 24 Old 10-26-2013, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whoaru99 View Post

Uh huh. So what's the point?

To get the last word?

To appeal to authority?

Mine is bigger than yours?

confused.gif

That's it, once again my motives are called out. I'm just trying to get the last word. rolleyes.gif

Or, perhaps I'm trying to help the OP with the dedicated circuit, ..clearing up misconceptions and potential missteps.

This is about helping the individual with a dedicated circuit for his big subwoofer amplifier.

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