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post #211 of 240 Old 12-22-2013, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by atabea View Post

Fair enough. Am not a fan of running my subs hot too.

Chalugadp isn't really running his subs hot, it seems that he's just using 85dB as his reference.

I used the Disney WOW Blu-ray disc to calibrate my speakers and they recommend using 85dB to do that.

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post #212 of 240 Old 12-22-2013, 10:51 PM
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I'm not sure if it makes a difference whether you choose 65,75, or 85 db. To me its that the speaker levels are even. When I watch movies or tv I often will tweak the sub up or down 1-2 db. Just to get where i want it. Its just a thing I do , not scientific , just love to fiddle.
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post #213 of 240 Old 12-22-2013, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

I'm not sure if it makes a difference whether you choose 65,75, or 85 db. To me its that the speaker levels are even. When I watch movies or tv I often will tweak the sub up or down 1-2 db. Just to get where i want it. Its just a thing I do , not scientific , just love to fiddle.

Oh okay I see what you're saying. I meant calibrating the speakers at reference. So with my master volume knob turned to 0, every channel plays at 85dB from my main LP while running test tones.

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post #214 of 240 Old 12-22-2013, 11:29 PM
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The emotiva volume goes from 0 to 80. Reference level would be around 60. I used a spl meter and found I watch movies at action scenes of 90-105 with peaks of 110-112. Loudest ever was 115 db. That's plenty loud for me.
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post #215 of 240 Old 12-22-2013, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

The emotiva volume goes from 0 to 80. Reference level would be around 60. I used a spl meter and found I watch movies at action scenes of 90-105 with peaks of 110-112. Loudest ever was 115 db. That's plenty loud for me.

LOL.... 115dB is really LOUD for a movie....lol smile.gif

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post #216 of 240 Old 12-22-2013, 11:51 PM
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Once your subs are in you will be hitting 120db wink.gif
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post #217 of 240 Old 12-23-2013, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Once your subs are in you will be hitting 120db wink.gif

I sure hope so, I've already had my XS30's over 117dB. But there's no way I could watch a movie at those levels.

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post #218 of 240 Old 12-23-2013, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

I sure hope so, I've already had my XS30's over 117dB. But there's no way I could watch a movie at those levels.

After your project dB you’re most likely going to start to loose some hearing, and you’ll be there in no time at all.

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post #219 of 240 Old 01-27-2014, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post

speakon NL4MP-ST connectors http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=092-053&scqty=4

[/quote


Is there a male part for this connector?
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post #220 of 240 Old 01-27-2014, 06:23 AM
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I would like to know how you cut the hole for the driver...doesnt look easy.
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post #221 of 240 Old 01-27-2014, 05:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogger99 View Post

I would like to know how you cut the hole for the driver...doesnt look easy.

dogger99, you will need a router and a circle jig to make the cuts. If you don't have a router (and don't want to buy one), you can find a woodworking shop to make the cuts for you. Here is a link to Stereo Integrity showing the specs for the cuts.
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post #222 of 240 Old 01-27-2014, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogger99 View Post

I would like to know how you cut the hole for the driver...doesnt look easy.

If you don't have a flush fit like me then just use a jigsaw if you have it.
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post #223 of 240 Old 01-27-2014, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogger99 View Post

I would like to know how you cut the hole for the driver...doesnt look easy.

+1

I use a jigsaw for all of mine, mostly because I am too lazy to drag out the router and jig for one simple hole cut.
You can cut it out in under a minute with a jigsaw. Hell, even you don't own one you can probably pick one up for under $30.

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post #224 of 240 Old 01-27-2014, 05:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

If you don't have a flush fit like me then just use a jigsaw if you have it.

chaluga, what's a flush fit
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post #225 of 240 Old 01-27-2014, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

If you don't have a flush fit like me then just use a jigsaw if you have it.

chaluga, what's a flush fit

Like this
evuqepab.jpg

Looks good but I don't mind the over the top look
7ytynybu.jpg
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post #226 of 240 Old 01-27-2014, 05:33 PM
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You can still do a recessed fit with a jigsaw as well. When you double or triple up the baffle you can mount the driver on the second panel in, recessing the driver the thickness of your material.
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post #227 of 240 Old 01-27-2014, 05:38 PM
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Flush mounting is an awesome idea until you have to remove the driver. I guess it's not so bad with lighter drivers, but omg I couldn't imagine that with some of the heavier ones.
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post #228 of 240 Old 01-27-2014, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

Flush mounting is an awesome idea until you have to remove the driver. I guess it's not so bad with lighter drivers, but omg I couldn't imagine that with some of the heavier ones.

I had to do that with one my LMSs and it was a b-otch to get out! I can't remember exactly what I did, but I remember the crushing of my fingers.
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post #229 of 240 Old 01-27-2014, 06:03 PM - Thread Starter
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I get it now: flush mount = recessed driver. Shoulda known that. And yeh, removing a heavy driver under such circumstances won't be a pleasant experience.

question: could a jigsaw really make a perfect circle? wouldn't it be a little rough around the edges making for a less than professional look?

admittedly, I have never used a jigsaw.
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post #230 of 240 Old 01-27-2014, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post

I get it now: flush mount = recessed driver. Shoulda known that. And yeh, removing a heavy driver under such circumstances won't be a pleasant experience.

question: could a jigsaw really make a perfect circle? wouldn't it be a little rough around the edges making for a less than professional look?

admittedly, I have never used a jigsaw.
If its a one off , yeah a jigsaw could. If I was cutting out 8-10 holes and I want them perfect then I would use a jigsaw
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post #231 of 240 Old 01-27-2014, 06:25 PM
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With enough Bondo and sanding, almost anything can look professional after it's painted! eek.gif
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post #232 of 240 Old 01-27-2014, 06:37 PM
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With enough Bondo and sanding, almost anything can look professional after it's painted! eek.gif

Oh , if its a duratex build then a beaver could chew it out tongue.gif
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post #233 of 240 Old 01-27-2014, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

Flush mounting is an awesome idea until you have to remove the driver. I guess it's not so bad with lighter drivers, but omg I couldn't imagine that with some of the heavier ones.

I wanted to flush mount the UXL-18 drivers that I'm going to be using in my build but you've brought up an excellent point. And I'm thinking that I'm not going to worry about flush mounting them in the cabinets that I build. Not too mention they will be hidden behind my AT screen and false wall anyways, so I won't even be able to see them.
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post #234 of 240 Old 01-27-2014, 08:06 PM
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Only speaker I would flush mount is an lcr that is all veneer. Or one that Erich sends me a baffle for biggrin.gif
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post #235 of 240 Old 01-28-2014, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogger99 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post

speakon NL4MP-ST connectors http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=092-053&scqty=4

[/quote


Is there a male part for this connector?
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post #236 of 240 Old 01-28-2014, 01:17 PM
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post #237 of 240 Old 01-28-2014, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogger99 View Post

Originally Posted by atabea:

speakon NL4MP-ST connectors

Is there a male part for this connector?

Note that the above connector is not airtight. I'm not sure the rubber gasket is sufficient to make this chassis connector airtight. Part of what determines whether or not it is airtight is the internal construction. That is partly why I chose Neutrik NL4MPR Speakon Connector 4 Pole Round Chassis Mount, which is designated as airtight.



Mike
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post #238 of 240 Old 01-28-2014, 04:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post

Note that the above connector is not airtight. I'm not sure the rubber gasket is sufficient to make this chassis connector airtight. Part of what determines whether or not it is airtight is the internal construction. That is partly why I chose Neutrik NL4MPR Speakon Connector 4 Pole Round Chassis Mount, which is designated as airtight.



Mike

Good point Mike. I used the rubber gasket as well as the air tight speakon connector, just to be sure I don't have any air leaks.
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post #239 of 240 Old 01-28-2014, 04:15 PM
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I typically use a bead of silicone. You are virtually guaranteed to seal it up. If you need to remove something, just use a razor blade to cut the bead.
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post #240 of 240 Old 03-19-2014, 10:52 PM
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Great sub, great post, thanks for th inspiration !
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